I have included a couple pics so you can see what we have. The crossmember installed will be removed to install your unit. A gentleman started it with his own design and gave up so I appreciate your help on this. The white line is our wheel base of 113″ and that is your Z correct? I will get what you need from that.
Thank you so much.
Dear Jeff…Jeff, the stock wheelbase dimension will usually give the “Z” location. Sometimes the look is better when the wheel/tire is ahead or back slightly from the stock location. This is because of the vehicle rake or even the stock “look” of the wheel and tire in the fender opening that changes with the new ride height. If you have the luxury of putting a fender in place and mocking the tire, it could give some relief to know the line you have was right all along. Or …
Thanks for the pictures.
I’ll try to get cut line info back to you quickly so you can get on with the build.
Dear Welder Series…
We removed the engine and the other cross member to get more accurate measurements for your work sheets. I sent a pic of front frame also. Let me know if you need anything else and thank you for all your help.
Dear Jeff…Jeff, this series of Plymouths gave us issues back in the 80’s when we had the first one to do. I think we were involved with another builder since then. He made new frame rails from the firewall forward.
The high frame arch makes it very difficult to install an independent front end.
The frame width is where the upper a-arm cross shafts will be and the frame arch is also there.
The work-around is to add to the bottom of the frame and remove from the top.
I can do some basic drawings that will show the height of the new bottom and top of the frame using the dropped spindles that you have I can do similar drawings for stock MII spindles.
Would you also please confirm the dimensions from ground to top of frame at CR and TR?
I’ll watch for your reply.
Dear Welder Series…
Let me know when your free for a call again please. The plan is to install 2×4 at 13 1/8″ high and the same width as the inside of the existing rails and it should be more than 14 in in length of clean flat surface to work with on the top. I just want to talk before I cut it up.
My drawings are all based on dropped spindles and 13” ground to the bottom of the 2×4.
Dear Welder Series…
I have attached some pics of the Plymouth for you to have a look at. I got at it this week and it really went well and I thank you so much for all your help and engineering. I left the inner upper rails in as fillers for when the fenders are installed. We have some more finish work to do but we are really happy with the results.
Dear Welder Series…
Attached are pictures of my plan for the Welder Series rear sway bar kit that I am installing on my ’32 Ford project. At this time it is tacked in place and I think it will work as I hope. I still need to tweak the positioning. I ran the bar through the square tube crossmember and the arms ended up directly over the rear axle. Also you can see the Welder Series exhaust hangers near the transmission tail housing and one behind the pipe passing over the rear axle. These are the parts that I recently ordered from you.
Received this nice email from a customer last night:
Chassis fabricated by Rock Ridge Specialties using products from Welder Series
The GM A-Body frame was smoothed from the torque boxes forward and a new rear tail section custom built from the torque boxes to the rear with the frame kick-ups over the rear axle raised 2″ higher for a lower
The chassis is now ready for the remaining build at Wild Rides & Fabrication.
Rock Ridge Specialties is presently working on a ’52 Mercury Pick-up chassis for Wild Rides & Fabrication
Thanks to Paul & DW at Welder Series for providing great products!
Rock Ridge used a bunch of our frame curves in this chassis build. Nice work, and thanks for the email! We always like seeing how our parts are being used. Every month we give a $50 gift certificate to someone who sent us pictures of our parts that month. Please send them to email@example.com.
Here are some pictures of the installation of a universal sway bar on a 1942 Chevy pickup. I installed it to the rear of the a arm because it gave me much more room. It was going to be very close to and possibly hitting on the tie rods for the rack and pinion steering. I was very pleased with the sway bar and the installation. I will and have recommended your products. Thanks so much,
The customer bent the arm to clear the tire in a turn.
I recently made the front clip for my project (1934 Plymouth 2 door sedan). It was a pleasure using your Mustang II crossmember kit! My job was easy because the rails are level, square and plumb but the directions were a great help and easy to follow. Thanks for a great product!
You can also see how Jeff made a mock-up coil over using a tube with two tubes welded on the ends. This is always a good thing to have around to keep your car at ride height during the build. Remember, you use the coil over spring to support the car at the designed ride height.
Do you have some Welder Series parts on your car? Please consider sharing them; it’s always helpful to see other people’s work.
Thanks for using our parts, Jeff. Enjoy your Plymouth!
John was in to the shop the other day and asked if we had a bracket for his 8-3/4 Dodge rear end to mount the Panhard bar. We don’t have one specifically for it, and after going over some pictures he had, we brainstormed and came up with something like this:
He used two Versatabs to mount the bar and formed a plate to box them in and to hold the bolts.
Nevermind, let the pictures explain. When we say it’s a universal sway bar kit, Daniel took us up on that claim.
Daniel, I’m guessing you spent at least an hour or more figuring all this out! I don’t know anything about bikes, but this is very impressive. Thanks for the pics, and for using Welder Series parts.
Mark just sent us a few pictures of his Welder Series MII installed in his ’51 Chevy truck. Nice job Mark!
He used our coil over kit, which is a little bit less expensive than the coil spring crossmember kit. The coil overs will cost more up front, but will be easier to fine-tune the ride due to the availability of shock damping and a wider range of spring rates.
Mark has been added to our monthly draw to receive a $50 credit on his account here. We draw a random name from those who send in pictures of our parts being used on their car. Please send pictures to firstname.lastname@example.org.