Tag: Mustang II

Dear Welder Series…
Good Day. Looking for a Mustang 2 type cross member for a 37 Dodge D5 coupe. Can’t find anything on your site. Would you have such a thing? Price and how much to ship to A0L 1A0? Thanks Gary

Dear Gary…
Hi, Gary. Your Dodge frame has a high curve over the front axle which makes it more difficult to install a Mustang II front end. It would be good to read our instruction sheets. https://shared-assets.adobe.com/link/17afad9a-b219-4191-7cfb-7ee4bfa6277c/?file=Coil%20Spring%20Mustang%20II.pdf , and eye-ball “ambush” areas. It might be necessary to add to the bottom of your frame to mount the crossmember and then trim off the top of the frame to mount the upper towers. The kit you use will depend on the track width you want and if you plan to use stock-style springs and shocks or coil-overs. Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts. Once you decide on the kit you’d like, we can dial in the freight cost.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul Thanks for your informative reply. I will have a closer look at what I have and go from there. Now I said Mustang II front end, but it doesn’t have to be. Is there something else that would an easier install using the stock rails? Gary

Dear Gary…
Hi, Gary. A nice thing about the Mustang II is that new parts are readily available. Coil springs and coil overs are available with a wide range of rates so that the front end gets installed knowing that the ride height and the ride quality you want will happen when the vehicle is finished. Another advantage is that most, often all, sheet metal, bumper, and rad mounting holes can be used because the MII gets installed in the stock frame. I hope this info helps.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… 1937 Dodge D5 Mustang II?

Dear Welder Series…
Looking for a Mustang 2 type cross member for a 37 Dodge D5 coupe. Can’t find anything on your site. Would you have such a thing? Price and how much to ship to A0L 1A0?

Dear Gary…
Your Dodge frame has a high curve over the front axle which makes it more difficult to install a Mustang II front end. It would be good to read our instruction sheets. https://shared-assets.adobe.com/link/17afad9a-b219-4191-7cfb-7ee4bfa6277c/?file=Coil%20Spring%20Mustang%20II.pdf , and eye-ball “ambush” areas. It might be necessary to add to the bottom of your frame to mount the crossmember and then trim off the top of the frame to mount the upper towers.
The kit you use will depend on the track width you want and if you plan to use stock-style springs and shocks or coil-overs.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts. Once you decide on the kit you’d like, we can dial in the freight cost.
Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Thanks for your informative reply. I will have a closer look at what I have and go from there. Now I said Mustang II front end, but it doesn’t have to be. Is there something else that would an easier install using the stock rails?
Gary

Dear Gary…
A nice thing about the Mustang II is that new parts are readily available. Coil springs and coil overs are available with a wide range of rates so that the front end gets installed knowing that the ride height and the ride quality you want will happen when the vehicle is finished.
Another advantage is that most, often all, sheet metal, bumper, and rad mounting holes can be used because the MII gets installed in the stock frame.
I hope this info helps.

Paul Horton


Dear Welder Series… 1965 Lincoln Mustang II?

Dear Welder Series…
Would you have a Mustang 2 crossmember solution for my problem. My frame rails curve inward and gets narrow at the crossmember/motor mount location so I would require a crossmember of about 24” wide between the car’s frame. The problem is my track width is 62”. Available Mustang 2 crossmember kits that measure 24” typically have a track width of only about 56”.  
Do you have any ideas on how I can retrofit a Mustang 2 crossmember kit into my ‘65 Lincoln short of having to replace the frame with straight pieces to get rid of narrow the section? Would longer upper & lower control arms and a longer top hat be a good option for providing a wider track for a narrow crossmember?
Please Advise, Thanks!Gilbert

Dear Gilbert…
I think you should consider adding straight sections of plate steel to make the frame wider in the crossmember/upper tower area. This would be top, bottom and outside pieces to give an outside dimension of 35 – 36”. Then trim the stock frame inside the new pieces and add the fourth side. Now the crossmember can be mounted under and inside the frame and the towers can weld on top and outside. There are some pictures in the Mustang II section of our website showing frame pieces in stock frames. It is not an easy job.
The longer control arms would require a special rack and this could start a whole new set of things to adapt to.
Thanks for asking us about this.Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Thanks for the recommendation and quick response! You confirmed what I was dreading, the frame has to be modified. 
I apologize if this sounds ignorant but to exhaust the other option, could longer tie rods/ends (approximately 3” longer each side) be used on the steering rack to accommodate the longer control arms? Or would this throw off other steering parameters?
Appreciate the advice,Gilbert

Dear Welder Series… 1951 Merc Mustang II?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul
Building a 51 Merc do you have know which width will work best, also I don’t see it listed but do you have an already or mostly welded kit?
Thanks

Dear Jeremy…
Jeremy, if your Mercury is a pickup (M1), use our F1 Mustang II kit or our 60-1/2” custom fit kit. You can also use our kits for coil-overs. If your Mercury is a passenger car, it will be necessary to modify the front frame section to install the Mustang II crossmember. Check the thumbnail pics on our website and read our instruction sheets while you look at your car’s frame.

April 2018 Photo Sharing

Thanks to everyone who sent in pictures of how Welder Series products are being used on your projects through the month of April. Hopefully these will spark an idea that you can use on your own project! See below the gallery for links to products shown. The winner (chosen at random by random.org) has been notified and a $50 credit has been applied!

Submit your own pictures here.

Dear Welder Series… 1957 F100 Mustang II

Dear Welder Series…
I’m building a 1957 F100, and would like to use some of your products, but I have a few questions.

I want to use your mustang 2 crossmember with coil overs, but I’m wanting to set the ride height of the truck pretty low, so clearance for wheels in turning becomes a concern. Would I be better off using your middle width m2 crossmember, and modify my frame, to pull the wheels in a bit? I also don’t have the wheels I’m planning to use, as I’m not quite sure what to order on backspacing. Any suggestions for that?

Thanks,
Shane

Dear Shane…
Hi, Shane. Thanks for asking but I’m not sure that I’ll be much help. Back when we built customer projects, we used 60-1/2” kits and 7” wide wheels. There was always lots of clearance.

Because you don’t have the wheels/tires, I’d suggest working on other areas of the project until you have had time to check out more vehicles at events to see what’s been used and how that was managed.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton

1949 Mercury Pickup by Schwartz Inc.

Grant Schwartz installs a bunch of Welder Series parts in a '49 Merc pickup. Quickly. If Bruce Lee went a slightly different direction in life and became a weldor, he'd be trying to keep up with Grant in the shop.

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1956 International Pickup Mustang II

Grant Schwartz stopped in the other day to pick up a Mustang II crossmember, and I think he had it installed quicker than my kids can go through a jar of Elmira maple syrup.

Here are some pictures he took. To see more of Grant’s work, please visit and follow his Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/schwartz.inc

Parts Used:

 
 

Dear Welder Series… 1949 International kb1 Mustang II

Dear Welder Series…
I have a 1949 international kb1. I would like to use coil springs and the mustang 2. I think it would take the 60 inch track. Is this correct? What would be the total cost shipped to Winnipeg? Do you offer welding of the basic member? Thanks

Dear Paul,
Paul, There are 2 frames for KB1’s, according to my info, 28” and 30” outside width. With either of these frames, I’d widen the frame outside dimension by adding tubing so the 60” kit has more frame surface to weld to. Read through the installation sheets here and I think you’ll see what I mean. (30” frame outside doesn’t give any surface on top of the frame for the upper tower to weld to in the 60″ kit.)

Here is a link to the web store page for the Mustang II:

There are other parts there that you might need, too, and some videos.

The 60-1/2” kit, welded, including freight and sales tax would total C$346.50.  (That’s Canadian Dollars…)

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts for your project.
Paul Horton

 

D100: Rack Extensions

Here’s a quick bit of info on how we matched the rack to our 62-1/2″ Mustang II crossmember.

Theoretically, you could widen a Mustang II crossmember as much as you wanted… the key is protecting the control arm pivot points and tie rod geometry. When you’re thinking of widening a Mustang II rack, there are two ways to do it properly… outside the bushings and inside the bushings.
‘Outside the bushings’ refers to pushing the tie rod ball and socket joint towards the wheel. This has to be done the same amount as the crossmember is wider than stock – typically 2″ per side on a 4″ wider than stock configuration. Longer tie rod ends can also be used on a 58″ wide crossmember.
‘Inside the bushings’ refers to lengthening the actual rack and rack housing. For a much wider crossmember, this might be a good option… there are even racks available that are wider than stock for this purpose. Your crossmember will have to be set up or modified for a wider rack. Welder Series crossmembers are designed to use rack extenders – the ‘outside the bushing’ method.

On my 1968 D100 truck build, I used a Welder Series 62-1/2″ track width crossmember, with rack extenders from Heidts. I used two (4″ total) on the passenger side, and one (2″ total) on the driver side. Our rack mounts favor the driver side, so the steering input shaft is closer to the frame rail and will be more likely to be aimed away from your headers.

Note: the rack bushings mount with the shoulder against the crossmember, and the serrations biting in to the rack mounts. Use a bolt size washer (included in our #24410 power rack mounting kit) on the front of the bushing, and let the bushing mushroom as you tighten the nut.

Dear Welder Series… 1953 Buick Mustang II?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi! I’m building a 53 Buick Special in Memphis and was looking for some info on Mustang 2 IFS. I’d like to build my own setup but not really sure where to begin! Any info would be greatly appreciated and any parts to get me going I would definitely purchase! Thanks for your time!

Dear Mustang II In Memphis…
Thanks for looking at the Welder Series site and asking about our parts for your project.  

The easiest way (and it’s not easy…) is to cut off the stock frame at the firewall and use rectangular tubing as new front frame rails. The Mustang II crossmember and towers will mount to them. It will be necessary to fab mounts to support the rad (cradle) and front end sheet metal. There are several pictures on our website where builders have done this. See them at:

We want to help you enjoy this build.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… what tie rod ends with 60″ MII?

Dear Welder Series…
When using the MII cross member, what tie rod ends are used on the 60″ track width?

Dear Robert…
Robert, it’s best to use rack extenders, but Fairmont tie rod ends can be used. The rack extenders are available from street rod companies that sell racks. They extend the center of the rack at each end. There are different thread pitches on Mustang racks, so I suggest getting the rack and extenders from the same company at the same time. Have 2″ extenders put on each end of the rack.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Question on the triangulated 4 link. I will be ordering the triangulated kit to us on my 8.8 going in my 57 F100. I’m going to order the rear first to see what kind of stance the truck has with a straight axle. I would like to do the MII front end but the vin # is stamped right where the upper brackets would go and I can’t cover that. My question is, do all 4 bars have to be level? Ride height is an unknown till the axle is in. Will anything be affected by having the bars angled?

Dear Robert…
Robert, the installation tips are at https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/26254738/Instructions/318500IN.pdf . These are the instructions for the regular and 8.8 4-link. If your 8.8 is from a Mustang, order the 8.8 kit. If your 8.8 is from a leaf spring vehicle, order the regular kit. The bars do not have to be level. There is some tolerance with the mounting points, too.

A comment regarding ride height: We always build so the finished project is at the ride height we want. This is easier to do with coil-overs or air bags than with leaf springs. Ride height clearance over the rear end can be 3″. It might be necessary to c-notch the frame if the ride height you want puts the bottom of the stock rail too close above the axle tube. Make sure there is clearance between the top of the differential housing and the bed floor when the suspension is fully compressed.

The ride height with the stock front suspension should be fairly easy to establish. Then you can stand back and see if the truck is sitting the way you want. If it isn’t, make changes so it will. This will take more time, and maybe more money up front, but you will be happier with the finished product.

I hope this helps with your planning.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… 1950 Chev Pickup Mustang II?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi! I have a 1950 Chevy 3100 pickup. I decided that I want to run with the mustang II ifs. I won’t be able to buy everything all at once, so I want to start with the crossmember. I want to run bags, so it will sit on the ground. Can you tell me what crossmember is best? Thank you.

Dear Juan…
If you are planning to use conventional bags, use this version: 

 

The airbag people have mounting brackets to fit in the upper towers.

If you plan to use ShockWaves, use this version:

 

If you click on the product you can view some pictures of airbags being used with this crossmember.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts for your pickup, Juan.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… 1976 Datsun 260Z Mustang II

Dear Welder Series… 
I’m customizing a 1976 Datsun 260Z for a client. It has an all aluminum Mustang Cobra 32V V8 up front and a narrowed 9″ triangulated 4 link setup in the rear. I want to put something like your Mustang II IFS kit on the front and get rid of the struts so that I can mount a wider torque thrust II wheel to match that back.

The frame rails have a lip that sticks out a little on the bottom facing out, and the width from that outside edge to outside edge is 32″. They are smooth on the inside.

Do you have something that will work for me? If you do, can you send me other dimensions so that I can measure up to make sure everything will fit under the original fenders?

Any help would be appreciated,

Thanks.

Brett

Dear Brett…
Our Mustang II coil spring kits are designed to be installed in almost any frame. What measurement do you want between the wheel mounting surfaces? (Where the wheels are against the rotors…)

What diameter tire will you use on the front?

With the frame at ride height, what is the distance from the ground to the bottom of the frame at the spindle location?

As above to the top of the frame?

With this info, I’ll be able to tell you about installation issues you might run into and suggest ways around them, if necessary.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Thanks for getting back to me.

There are a lot of questions there that I don’t have the answers to yet.

I’ve just finished the back end of the car, so let me measure the front up this weekend and I will get back to you.

Cheers,

Brett.

Dear Brett…
Thanks, Brett. I might be slower getting back to you for the next week or so… There will be days when I’m out of internet access. I’ll try not to keep you off the road too long…

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Here are those numbers!

What measurement do you want between the wheel mounting surfaces? 54″

What diameter tire will you use on the front? Don’t know yet, but to match the rear the center of the front spindle will need to be 12 3/8″ from the ground.

With the frame at ride height, what is the distance from the ground to the bottom of the frame at the spindle location? 11″

As above to the top of the frame? 14″

This car is pretty low, so if we need to go up or down a little, I would prefer to go up a little on the ride height. We have a tri-4-link with coil overs on the back so we can always adjust the back up or down to match whatever the front ends up being.

Cheers,

Brett.

To Be Continued…

Dear Welder Series… 1960 Falcon Pro Touring Front Suspension

A detailed conversation with Mark, who's interested in installing a custom width Mustang II crossmember in his 1960 Falcon pro-touring build.

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