Category: dear welder series

Paul Horton’s replies to actual tech emails.

Dear Welder Series… 4.7 Dodge engine mounts?

Dear Welder Series…

Hello,

I’m looking through your website looking for a way to mount a Dodge Dakota 4.7L into a Dodge 1500 chassis. I’m doing an engine/trans/body swap of a Dakota onto a 99 Dodge 1500 frame with a straight Dana 44 front axle. I figure I’d have to build or modify something. Any ideas?  

Thanks,

Kraig

Dear Kraig…

Hi, Kraig.

From pics on the internet, it looks like your engine has threaded bosses on the side of the block. We could make mounts similar to our LS mounts but with a plate that would bolt to the existing bosses on your engine. The center of the urethane bushing would be 3-3/8” off of the block boss surface.

This can be easy IF:
– The boss’ surfaces are all on the same plane. If they are not, shims could be used between the low one(s) and the main plate.
– Nothing else wants the same space as the mount. This could be exhaust or engine accessories or…

The tabs would be trimmed to fit and welded to the frame. 

We would need accurate hole spacing and thread size from you.  

Does this seem like a solution?  Thanks for asking us.

Paul Horton
info@welderseries.com

Dear Welder Series… sway bar through 34″ OD frame?

Dear Welder Series…

Wanting to buy the sway bar kit for my 57 chevy pickup but have a question.
My frame rails measure 34” outside to outside, is your 36” kit going to be wide enough as I need to put this through the center of the frame rails?
Thanks for any help,
Don

Dear Don…

Hi Don, thanks for your note. The outer tube in the 36” kit is 34” long. It should be ok – it will just look like the bushings go right into the frame rail. If necessary, you can bend the arms away from the rails for additional clearance.

DW Horton
Welder Series Inc.

Dear Welder Series…
Good Day. Looking for a Mustang 2 type cross member for a 37 Dodge D5 coupe. Can’t find anything on your site. Would you have such a thing? Price and how much to ship to A0L 1A0? Thanks Gary

Dear Gary…
Hi, Gary. Your Dodge frame has a high curve over the front axle which makes it more difficult to install a Mustang II front end. It would be good to read our instruction sheets. https://shared-assets.adobe.com/link/17afad9a-b219-4191-7cfb-7ee4bfa6277c/?file=Coil%20Spring%20Mustang%20II.pdf , and eye-ball “ambush” areas. It might be necessary to add to the bottom of your frame to mount the crossmember and then trim off the top of the frame to mount the upper towers. The kit you use will depend on the track width you want and if you plan to use stock-style springs and shocks or coil-overs. Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts. Once you decide on the kit you’d like, we can dial in the freight cost.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul Thanks for your informative reply. I will have a closer look at what I have and go from there. Now I said Mustang II front end, but it doesn’t have to be. Is there something else that would an easier install using the stock rails? Gary

Dear Gary…
Hi, Gary. A nice thing about the Mustang II is that new parts are readily available. Coil springs and coil overs are available with a wide range of rates so that the front end gets installed knowing that the ride height and the ride quality you want will happen when the vehicle is finished. Another advantage is that most, often all, sheet metal, bumper, and rad mounting holes can be used because the MII gets installed in the stock frame. I hope this info helps.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… why are there three holes on the axle brackets?

Dear Welder Series…

Hey DW
Hope all is well sir and you are having a good year so far.
A question came up in our shop this weekend and I am wondering if you could let me know the correct answer when time permits please!

The axle brackets on your parallel 4 link kits- the 3 holes on the rear for shock mounts- are the 3 holes used for initial ride height setup ONLY, or are they options to be used for future ride hide adjustments??

Great debate here on whether they are meant to be used adjusting the ride height whenever you want or if they are meant to be a ‘one time’ use during the chassis build.

Could you let me know the official response please? (I have a $100 wager on this)

Regards,
John

Dear John…

Hi, John.

DW suggested we give you the answer you want for a cut of the action… (Just kidding…)

My “official” answer is: Nobody loses this bet.

Usually the 3 holes are used as a lower mounting point for coil-overs or ShockWaves. They can be used as shock mounts when conventional air bags are used, but my first thought is for coil-over suspension. That’s the basis for my answer.

Coil-overs and ShockWaves have a “designed ride height”. https://welderseries.com/tech/tech-sharing/coil-over-mounting-offset/. We feel a custom vehicle should be built with the suspension at ride height. https://www.welderseries.com/Right-Height-Vehicle-Set-Up-Tool-p83035424. Physical constraints might dictate the (ideal) location for the upper coil-over mount. The 3 axle bracket holes will give some flexibility to the upper mounting hole location, since the (fixed) coil-over ride height is important to the vehicle ride height. So the wager winner is the initial ride height setup only… maybe…

The 3 holes allow for future adjustments that might involve different coil-overs, different wheel/tire combinations, or a different “look” desired for display at a car show. I have moved the lower coil-over up a hole when going on a vacation trip with a “kitchen sink” in the trunk. So the wager winner winner is the adjustable person… maybe…

I hope you two have a laugh over this and save your money for Welder Series parts.

Thanks for writing. It’s been fun answering.
Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…

Thank you very much Mr. Horton

As always I appreciate your responses. (I will selectively edit parts of your response and attempt to cut you guys in as I might lose now)

Another question if I may- wouldn’t adjusting up or down a hole as you suggested at the bottom throw off your driveline angles? Or would the difference be minimal?

What brought this about is a wager on my Model A coupe- it rides a touch too high in the back & the wager was whether you can drop it a hole and not throw everything off. 

Thanks, John.

Dear John…
Raising or lowering the rear by 1” on a Model A will change the driveline angle by less than 1/2 of 1 degree. I’d consider this minimal and should not cause a problem… unless the driveline angle is already borderline. Lowering the rear could be offset by shimming the transmission mount.

Dear Welder Series…

Well sir I appreciate your insight very much regardless of the $100 I just lost haha

Thank you very much regardless

John.

LS in a 52 Cadillac

Dear Welder Series…
I finally received the engine mounts for LS engine. Delayed a fair bit by Canada Post [due to strike. Workers are back to work now].
After quite a few tries, managed to locate engine where I wanted. Tack welded engine top plate, then made plywood template for vertical rib. Nothing is straightforward on this 52 Cadillac.
Both mounts now permanently installed. I’ll be painting them once everything else is complete. Got steering, brakes, exhaust still to figure out.
Francois

Dear Welder Series… 1965 Lincoln Mustang II?

Dear Welder Series…
Would you have a Mustang 2 crossmember solution for my problem. My frame rails curve inward and gets narrow at the crossmember/motor mount location so I would require a crossmember of about 24” wide between the car’s frame. The problem is my track width is 62”. Available Mustang 2 crossmember kits that measure 24” typically have a track width of only about 56”.  
Do you have any ideas on how I can retrofit a Mustang 2 crossmember kit into my ‘65 Lincoln short of having to replace the frame with straight pieces to get rid of narrow the section? Would longer upper & lower control arms and a longer top hat be a good option for providing a wider track for a narrow crossmember?
Please Advise, Thanks!Gilbert

Dear Gilbert…
I think you should consider adding straight sections of plate steel to make the frame wider in the crossmember/upper tower area. This would be top, bottom and outside pieces to give an outside dimension of 35 – 36”. Then trim the stock frame inside the new pieces and add the fourth side. Now the crossmember can be mounted under and inside the frame and the towers can weld on top and outside. There are some pictures in the Mustang II section of our website showing frame pieces in stock frames. It is not an easy job.
The longer control arms would require a special rack and this could start a whole new set of things to adapt to.
Thanks for asking us about this.Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Thanks for the recommendation and quick response! You confirmed what I was dreading, the frame has to be modified. 
I apologize if this sounds ignorant but to exhaust the other option, could longer tie rods/ends (approximately 3” longer each side) be used on the steering rack to accommodate the longer control arms? Or would this throw off other steering parameters?
Appreciate the advice,Gilbert

Dear Welder Series… 1951 Merc Mustang II?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul
Building a 51 Merc do you have know which width will work best, also I don’t see it listed but do you have an already or mostly welded kit?
Thanks

Dear Jeremy…
Jeremy, if your Mercury is a pickup (M1), use our F1 Mustang II kit or our 60-1/2” custom fit kit. You can also use our kits for coil-overs. If your Mercury is a passenger car, it will be necessary to modify the front frame section to install the Mustang II crossmember. Check the thumbnail pics on our website and read our instruction sheets while you look at your car’s frame.

Dear Welder Series… how much hp?

Dear Welder Series…
How much hp does your universal 4 link kit support? And can you estimate shipping to Saskatoon SK.

Dear Jesse…
A lot depends on the tires you are running and how you plan to beat on things. We build parts for street rods and feel they are top quality. A parallel rear 4-link kit does not give the same traction advantage that a race-type, non-parallel 4-link does. Freight from our door to yours is 10% of the order with a minimum charge of $15 and a maximum charge of $60.

Dear Welder Series… Panhard bar adjuster question

Dear Welder Series…
Received my order today. Your parts are absolutely fabulous. Just as advertised.
I do have a question though. Take a look at the pictures. The threaded bolt that goes into the threaded end of the pan hard bar on the end that gets welded to a bushing has a slight angle cut in it. Different from the others. I was wondering if it was supposed to be welded on an angle for mounting purposes or just a flaw in the cut off the bolt.

Dear Mike…
Hi Mike, thanks for your comments. The adjuster included in the universal panhard kit goes on the red end bracket and is notched on a 5 degree angle to clear the pinion. You’ll also notice the two frame tabs are different lengths – this is to compensate for the angle of the bar at the frame.
Thanks again!
DW Horton

Dear Welder Series… 1957 F100 Mustang II

Dear Welder Series…
I’m building a 1957 F100, and would like to use some of your products, but I have a few questions.

I want to use your mustang 2 crossmember with coil overs, but I’m wanting to set the ride height of the truck pretty low, so clearance for wheels in turning becomes a concern. Would I be better off using your middle width m2 crossmember, and modify my frame, to pull the wheels in a bit? I also don’t have the wheels I’m planning to use, as I’m not quite sure what to order on backspacing. Any suggestions for that?

Thanks,
Shane

Dear Shane…
Hi, Shane. Thanks for asking but I’m not sure that I’ll be much help. Back when we built customer projects, we used 60-1/2” kits and 7” wide wheels. There was always lots of clearance.

Because you don’t have the wheels/tires, I’d suggest working on other areas of the project until you have had time to check out more vehicles at events to see what’s been used and how that was managed.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… Model A front axle question

Dear Welder Series…
Hello,
I just wanted to thank you for your catalog.
I am going to attempt at 64 years old to build my first hot rod on a fixed income(retired).
It’s a Model A full fendered and my question is can I use a stock 48 Ford axle (48′) with your flat front cross member,a reverse eye spring and 500 or 560-15 front tire and A)get the required drop or stance and B) will the front tires stick out too far into the fender as the 48 axle is 1 inch wider on each side.
Again many thanks,
Bryan

Dear Bryan…
Good questions. I’ve been sitting looking at your email for a few minutes trying to decide how to answer them. And it comes down to: “It depends…”

It depends on the stance you want. A starting point might be to put the axle and wheels/tires that will be used under the car with no spring mounted. Use a short (4” long?) 2×4 on edge, running front-to-rear, on top of the axle and under the stock front crossmember. This mock-up will be about as close to a low spring arch as you can get. If you are ok with the tire width and fender clearance at this height you can consider going lower.

The flat crossmember will let you lower the front a maximum of 2” compared to the stock crossmember. The stock Model A rad bottom tank drops down into the stock crossmember area. The rad shell hides the upper and lower tanks and the side straps. Our flat crossmember will use up the space that the lower tank wants, so a custom rad would be required. The rad shell would not hide the bottom tank. This is something to consider.  

I hope this gives you some help with your build. Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Thank you very much for your info Paul.
You have provided me some tips that I never knew in spite of reading hot rod magazines for 50 years.
Take care,
Bryan

Dear Welder Series… 1949 International kb1 Mustang II

Dear Welder Series…
I have a 1949 international kb1. I would like to use coil springs and the mustang 2. I think it would take the 60 inch track. Is this correct? What would be the total cost shipped to Winnipeg? Do you offer welding of the basic member? Thanks

Dear Paul,
Paul, There are 2 frames for KB1’s, according to my info, 28” and 30” outside width. With either of these frames, I’d widen the frame outside dimension by adding tubing so the 60” kit has more frame surface to weld to. Read through the installation sheets here and I think you’ll see what I mean. (30” frame outside doesn’t give any surface on top of the frame for the upper tower to weld to in the 60″ kit.)

Here is a link to the web store page for the Mustang II:

There are other parts there that you might need, too, and some videos.

The 60-1/2” kit, welded, including freight and sales tax would total C$346.50.  (That’s Canadian Dollars…)

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts for your project.
Paul Horton

 

Dear Welder Series… coil over specs?

Dear Welder Series…
I just purchased a 1950 Chevy 3100 truck where the seller installed WS21906 in the front and WS318500 in the rear of the original frame. I was hoping you could suggested an affordable set of coil overs that would work with this setup. Unfortunately I have no idea as to what I should be looking for in terms of the stroke, lengths, dampening, etc.. Thank you.

Yuchol

Dear Yuchol…
Congratulations on your new project! These are great looking trucks.

I suggest blocking the truck at ride height to establish coil-over ride height.

If the upper mounts for the front shocks have been installed, the ride height for the coil-overs will be the center-to-center distance between the mounting holes on the lower arms and the brackets. If the frame plates have not been installed, click here for the manual…pages 2 and 13 will help.

If the rear crossmember has been installed to mount the top of the coil-overs, the truck’s ride height you have chosen with the mock-up will give you the coil-over ride height. If there isn’t yet a place to mount the top of the coil-over, please consider the crossmember

 

The coil-over mounting angle is discussed here. The coil-over ride height can be determined when you mock up the crossmember and mounting points.

Regarding the coil-over stroke, generally longer is better as it will offer more suspension travel. Other factors or interference points also come into play. Viking, RideTech and other North American companies make quality coil-overs.

I hope this helps with your decisions.
Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Thank you so much!

Yuchol