Category: Front Suspension

Questions we’ve been asked about front suspension- Mustang II vs. solid axle, four link, hairpins, etc.

Dear Welder Series… 1949 International kb1 Mustang II

Dear Welder Series…
I have a 1949 international kb1. I would like to use coil springs and the mustang 2. I think it would take the 60 inch track. Is this correct? What would be the total cost shipped to Winnipeg? Do you offer welding of the basic member? Thanks

Dear Paul,
Paul, There are 2 frames for KB1’s, according to my info, 28” and 30” outside width. With either of these frames, I’d widen the frame outside dimension by adding tubing so the 60” kit has more frame surface to weld to. Read through the installation sheets at and I think you’ll see what I mean. (30” frame outside doesn’t give any surface on top of the frame for the upper tower to weld to in the 60″ kit.)

Here is a link to the web store page for the Mustang II:

There are other parts there that you might need, too, and some videos.

The 60-1/2” kit, welded, including freight and sales tax would total C$346.50.  (That’s Canadian Dollars…)

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts for your project.
Paul Horton


Dear Welder Series… coil over specs?

Dear Welder Series…
I just purchased a 1950 Chevy 3100 truck where the seller installed WS21906 in the front and WS318500 in the rear of the original frame. I was hoping you could suggested an affordable set of coil overs that would work with this setup. Unfortunately I have no idea as to what I should be looking for in terms of the stroke, lengths, dampening, etc.. Thank you.


Dear Yuchol…
Congratulations on your new project! These are great looking trucks.

I suggest blocking the truck at ride height to establish coil-over ride height.

If the upper mounts for the front shocks have been installed, the ride height for the coil-overs will be the center-to-center distance between the mounting holes on the lower arms and the brackets. If the frame plates have not been installed, go to, pages 2 and 13 will help.

If the rear crossmember has been installed to mount the top of the coil-overs, the truck’s ride height you have chosen with the mock-up will give you the coil-over ride height. If there isn’t yet a place to mount the top of the coil-over, please consider the crossmember

The coil-over mounting angle is discussed at . The coil-over ride height can be determined when you mock up the crossmember and mounting points.

Regarding the coil-over stroke, generally longer is better as it will offer more suspension travel. Other factors or interference points also come into play. Viking, RideTech and other North American companies make quality coil-overs.

I hope this helps with your decisions.
Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Thank you so much!


Dear Welder Series… What Steel Should I Use?

Dear Welder Series…
I have a 1957 Chevy Pickup that I need to get running before another baby comes in June 2018. One of the things I need to do is put a new chassis under it. Someone did a Camaro front clip on it before I bought it, and after doing some research and talking to people about it, and taking multiple measurements, I do not feel confident in how the clip was done. I actually have a brand new (covered in dust) Mustang II kit from a local company in Ontario, California sitting in the shed, problem is I need new rails to attach it too.

What type of steel would you recommend for making new rails out of? I have read a lot of resources that say “mild steel” but I am looking for more specifics like A-36 plate or A1011 Grade XX pickled and oiled, or perhaps some other awesome stuff I don’t even know about.

I know it is probably a dumb question because in essence, helping me does nothing or very little for you. Regardless, I appreciate it and hope you will consider getting back to me.

Thank you,

Dear David…
Hi, David.
The tubing for this is called Hollow Structural Section (HSS tubing). Specific info is at 2×5, 1/8” or 3/16″ wall will work well.

We suggest a 60” track width for the ’57 Chev pickup. You might want to confirm that the kit you have is going to give you that track width. If the lower control arms are stock length, the crossmember pivot holes should be 26-1/4” center-to-center.
I hope this info helps. Thanks for thinking of Welder Series.
Paul Horton

Worth Repeating

I honestly can’t remember if I posted these pictures yet, but I was going through flagged emails tonight and I know exactly why this one was flagged.

D&D Rod & Custom in Church Hill TN do really, really clean work. They narrowed one of our Mustang II crossmember kits for this 1950 Mercedes frame, and used an assortment of other Welder Series pieces. I like the little tab on the engine mount plate which mounts the lower tab of the alternator. Also, check out their frame table… see the two pieces of C channel welded back to back with a few spacers between them? From what I can gather, a bolt slides in the space between the channels, and tightens on a plate top and bottom. Simple way to adjust the width of the uprights! Clever fellas.

Dear Welder Series… stock Mustang II control arms?

Dear Welder Series…
Bought a mustang 2 crossmember kit that takes coil overs last year from your website… Wondering if the mustang 2 stock control arms ( upper and lower) will work….

Dear James…
They will, but it might be hard to find coil-overs that will fit the lower arms, the upper mounts and clear the stamped upper arms.  

The lower arms require a coil-over with a fairly high lower spring seat to clear the stamping. The lower coil-over mount will need some spacers to make up the inside dimension of the arm. The hole in the stock lower arm takes a 7/16” bolt, so it would have to be opened up to the size of the coil-over lower hole.

Our coil-over kit upper mounts are for conventional-style coil-overs that have an “eye” top mount. When you order coil-overs for the stock lower arms, the person filling that order will think you need a coil-over with an upper mount like the stock MII shock, which can be thought of as a threaded extension of the shock shaft. The hardware in our kit is 1/2”, so you should be sure the coil-over upper is for a 1/2” bolt.

The stamped stock uppers are bulkier than tubular ones around the ball joint and I’m not certain that they will clear the coil-over spring when the ball joint is in a low position (as when the frame goes up).

Seemed like a simple question but there is a more involved answer. I hope this helps.


Dear Paul…
Ok thanks for the fast reply. So I guess I should use tubular control arms… Should I use narrowed ones or the regular ones? As for coil overs what do you recommend to use or brand to go for? And lastly for power rack and pinion, can I use a 78 mustang 2 or is there one you recommend to use with your crossmember?

If I would’ve gotten the other crossmember instead of the coilover ones…  The stock control arms would’ve worked?

Please email me back on to what control arms, power rack, and coil overs i should use for my truck…  

Lastly, I’m driving to Ontario in a few months for a few weeks and visit the folks, I was wondering if I can drop by your shop and drop off a running board bracket to be remanufactured ( I would need 6) and I’m planning to buy a 4 link but don’t exactly know where to start. Would you be able to give me quotes for the bracket?

Thanks a million Paul.

Dear James…
James, the tube arms are more money, but maybe not much more when you add the strut rods, bushing, and gussets. The ride with the tube A-arms will be much smoother. I’ve had both on our ’40 Ford and was amazed at the improvement from a good ride to a great ride. Stock or narrowed arms depend on the brake kit. 

I don’t think it matters whose North American made control arms you use. The ’78 power rack you ask about will be fine. If you have to source one, it will be easier to find a ’79 and newer Fox body power rack. Regarding coil-overs, I suggest you check with Canadian street rod shops to see what their policy is regarding spring exchange, if required. It will be easier to change springs when dealing with a Canadian company rather than with US and Canada Customs. I realize these are general answers but there are several good companies making and/or selling those parts.

I hope this helps, too. Thanks for asking me.


Dear Paul…
Thank you for the info good Sir! I will swing by your shop soon enough and planning to pick your brains more than I already have! Thank you again

Dear James…
I realize I did’t answer about the running board bracket. I’d need the bracket for a few days while I do a CAD drawing. Then I can quote it.

I’m not at the shop all day, every day anymore. If I know when you plan to come, I’ll be sure to be there or see if another time would suit.


Dear Welder Series… which master cylinder?

Dear Welder Series…
Good morning!

I was just wondering if you had a suggested master cylinder to use with your universal under floor brake kit?  Is there one from a specific vehicle that I can pick up from the local parts store?  I have also attached a couple pictures for you of some of your products on my build so far!


[Jon used some custom length bars on his parallel four link, and our #229000 thru-frame tie rod end mount.]

Dear Jon…
Jon, nice work on your frame! Looks like you have nice facilities, too!

Any GM or Ford master cylinder will fit our brackets, thanks to the slightly elongated mounting holes. Corvette master cylinders are low profile so work nicely in many street rod projects. Be sure to check the street rod shops for them. We found more bore sizes were available and the price was good.

Thanks for the pictures! (And for using our parts.)

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… No Door Mustang II?

Dear Welder Series…
Hello from so-cal! do you want to make a lot of people happy? please make a mustang 2 crossmember kit for our 61-67 ford econoline vans and trucks! these things wander all over the road when lowered, and are a handful to drive. one problem is steering column ends up in front of the axle, but with a direction changer from a Toyota vanwagon this could be fixed. please, please consider this project as no one else is making one. if you would like to look at my van, you can google “kurt bohne’s nodoor” or econowest van gatherings at the rosebowl thank you, kurt

Dear Kurt…
Hi, Kurt. I like making people happy. Your NoDoor is a good looking van. We no longer build cars or do installation work, so developing a kit specifically for the axle series Econoline vans would not be an in-house option. We do produce custom parts to drawings/sketches provided by builders. This would be something we could do to help you.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts and thinking about us for your project. Please let me know if we can work on this with you.
Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… Pinto spindles?

Dear Welder Series…
I have a question  but not sure if i post it here or another way on the site. I am wanting to put pinto spindles on my 70 dodge dart (because i want to put a rack and pinion) and im going to be converting to tubular a arms and a k member. Are all pinto spindles the same and if not what years should i be looking at. Also, are the balljoint tapers the same for mopar and pinto stuff (i heard they were). Ill be putting 73 a body disc brakes on it to get rid of the drum brakes. I love that i found this site. Thank you for any info. If you need me to post another way then just let me know and i will.

Dear Brian…
Good questions, Brian. I can only answer some of them.

There are 2 different Pinto spindles: 1971-73 and 1974-80. (1974-80 pinto and 1974-78 Mustang II are identical.) See  this article to compare. I like the 74 – 78 spindles because they are bigger and are the ones commonly used in Mustang II crossmember kits, including ours. 1971 – 73 are often used on drag race cars, probably because they are lighter. There are big brake kits available for the early spindles, but I’d say you have more big brake choices for the later spindles.

Moog K772 ball joints fit the late spindles, but I don’t know about the early ones. When using the K772 as a lower ball joint on the later spindles, use our K772S spacer and the stock ball joint washer under the nut. Without the spacer and washer, the nut will not draw the tapered ball joint stud into the hole tightly.

I don’t know if adapter kits are available to put the 73 A-body brakes on the Mustang II spindle.

Thanks for checking out Welder Series parts. I hope we can help with your project.

Paul Horton

Sway bar used on Corvette IFS in 1942 Chevy pickup

Here are some pictures of the installation of a universal sway bar on a 1942 Chevy pickup. I installed it to the rear of the a arm because it gave me much more room. It was going to be very close to and possibly hitting on the tie rods for the rack and pinion steering. I was very pleased with the sway bar and the installation. I will and have recommended your products. Thanks so much,

Dear Welder Series… Mustang II control arm holes

Dear Welder Series…
On the coil over shock crossmember it shows a 1/2 hole for the lower a-arm, the lower a-arm pivot bushing on my lower a-arm requires a hole 1 3/8 hole. Is that going to work on this crossmember??

Dear Len…
Len, the 1/2″ hole is stock Mustang II. Many aftermarket a-arms use a 5/8″ bolt and some spacers inside and on the back of the crossmember. Depending on the arrangement of your spacer(s) and bolts, the 1/2″ holes might only have to be drilled for the 5/8″ bolt. If the spacer is 1 piece (on the driver and passenger sides), it can either be cut in 2 to put one section between the front and rear crossmember plates and the other piece on the rear side of the crossmember. Or the rear hole can be opened up to the spacer diameter and leave the spacer as 1 piece.

I hope this answers your question.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… right hand drive Vega bracket?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul

I’m ready to buy all my bits, an NZ freight forwarding company has offered me an introductory 30% off deal. So I’ll give that a go as I think USPS will be a lot.

I will get the rear panhard and the Vega steering but please weld the spacers on the back as it for a right hand drive.

OK. I have been told I need a front panhard, I was looking at your kit, but I have traditional 1930 model a split wishbone radius rods like this

do you think I can just weld a bracket onto the inside of one of the radius rods/arms? And the other end to the chassis rail as per normal, it should be OK. Let me know as  think your kit will be fine if I get the length right.

Cheers  Gary

Dear Gary…
The front Panhard tabs can be welded to the wishbone, Gary.  What axle will you use?  We can weld the Vega spacers on the opposite side for the right hand drive installation.  Please mention this in your order.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… control arms?

Dear Welder Series…
I’m looking to put a Mustang II IFS in my 1966 Ford F100 and I see your crossmember kits but I do not see control arms. Do the aftermarket Tubular control arms from other venders for the Mustang II fit your crossmembers?


Dear Craig…
We don’t make control arms, Craig, but all of the quality arms will fit our crossmember.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… custom adjusters?

Dear Welder Series…
I need an adjuster kit, LH and RH (like #ws100720r) for my split wishbone set up but here’s the deal. I have 3/4 threaded bungs in my wishbones and I was going to put heim joints but I’d rather put urethane instead. I need a 3/4″ thread, on a 1 3/8″ wide urethane bushing with a degree on it.

Let me know if you can make that and I’ll measure what degree I need if you can do it.

Thank you very much,

Dear Louis…
Thanks for asking, Louis. Yes, we can do this, depending on the angle you need. Please check the angle and get back to us.

Paul Horton.

Dear Welder Series… weld-on front axle brackets?

John, we don't presently have front axle 4-bar brackets for you to weld to your axle, but I'm going to design some and have them ready within 2 weeks.

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