“These cars are way oversprung.” There, I’ve said it. I don’t think I’m the only one, but now that I’ve changed the front spring, I’m even more confident.
Originally, the car was built with a mono leaf spring over an aluminum I beam axle. The mono leaf has only one leaf (“mono”, not the kissing disease), and it’s kind of like a graduated spring rate… it’s thicker at the middle and thins out towards the eyes. It’s probably quite softer than a seven leaf spring, but it’s definitely not softer than the Posies super low spring I installed two years ago (2016).
Combined with a new set of Ridetech aluminum front shocks designed specifically for light, solid axle cars, the ride is much, much better. The shocks are a dramatic (I don’t often use italics) improvement over the standard chrome shocks I had installed originally… they’re designed with almost no compression damping because – you guessed it – these cars are way oversprung already. Almost all the damping is in the rebound, where the shock needs to control the heavy spring throwing the light front end back up after a bump in the road.
I think I began to question front leaf spring rates when I was trying to find a squeak in the front end. You may have done the same thing – stand on the frame horns, bounce the car, try to reproduce the noise. While I was doing that, I noticed that most of the “bounce” was in the sidewall of the tires, not in the actual spring. I’m sure the sidewalls serve an important role in absorbing road imperfections, but they’re certainly not up to the task of handling much more. Ask your kidneys after a ride in a 90’s era mini truck.
Dear Welder Series… Looking for a Mustang 2 type cross member for a 37 Dodge D5 coupe. Can’t find anything on your site. Would you have such a thing? Price and how much to ship to A0L 1A0?
Dear Gary… Your Dodge frame has a high curve over the front axle which makes it more difficult to install a Mustang II front end. It would be good to read our instruction sheets. https://shared-assets.adobe.com/link/17afad9a-b219-4191-7cfb-7ee4bfa6277c/?file=Coil%20Spring%20Mustang%20II.pdf , and eye-ball “ambush” areas. It might be necessary to add to the bottom of your frame to mount the crossmember and then trim off the top of the frame to mount the upper towers. The kit you use will depend on the track width you want and if you plan to use stock-style springs and shocks or coil-overs. Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts. Once you decide on the kit you’d like, we can dial in the freight cost. Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series… Thanks for your informative reply. I will have a closer look at what I have and go from there. Now I said Mustang II front end, but it doesn’t have to be. Is there something else that would an easier install using the stock rails? Gary
Dear Gary… A nice thing about the Mustang II is that new parts are readily available. Coil springs and coil overs are available with a wide range of rates so that the front end gets installed knowing that the ride height and the ride quality you want will happen when the vehicle is finished. Another advantage is that most, often all, sheet metal, bumper, and rad mounting holes can be used because the MII gets installed in the stock frame. I hope this info helps.
Grant Schwartz installs a bunch of Welder Series parts in a '49 Merc pickup. Quickly. If Bruce Lee went a slightly different direction in life and became a weldor, he'd be trying to keep up with Grant in the shop.
Stereolithography (SLA) is an additive manufacturing – commonly referred to as 3D printing – technology that converts liquid materials into solid parts, layer by layer, by selectively curing them using a light source in a process called photopolymerization. SLA is widely used to create models, prototypes, patterns, and production parts for a range of industries from engineering and product design to manufacturing, dentistry, jewelry, model making, and education.
Custom projects get us really excited… if you have an idea for something that you think could be 3D printed, please get in touch. We have the capability to print with the following resins:
Clear: Stereolithography 3D printing technology makes clear prints possible on the desktop. Clear Resin is great for fluidics and moldmaking, optics, lighting, and any parts requiring translucency.
Grey, black, and white: With a matte surface finish, opaque appearance, and precise details, Black, White, and Grey Resins are ready to use right off the printer. Their neutral undertone also makes a great base for parts that will eventually be painted or undergo other finishing processes.
Tough: Balances strength and compliance, making it the ideal choice for prototyping strong, functional parts and assemblies that will undergo brief periods of stress or strain.
Flexible: Produce parts that bend and compress. Flexible is excellent for simulating soft-touch materials and adding ergonomic features to multi-material assemblies.
Heat resistant: High Temp Resin has a heat deflection temperature (HDT) of 289 °C @ 0.45 MPa—the highest on the 3D printing materials market. Use it to print models for environmental testing, or create molds and masters for production processes like casting and thermoforming.
Rigid: Reinforced with glass to offer very high stiffness and a polished finish. This material is highly resistant to deformation over time and is great for printing thin walls and features.
Durable: With low modulus, high elongation, and high impact strength, Durable Resin produces parts with a smooth, glossy finish and high resistance to deformation. Use this material for applications requiring minimal friction.
Castable: Designed to capture precise details and smooth surfaces. It burns out cleanly without ash or residue, allowing jewelers and casting houses to go straight from digital design to a 3D print suitable for direct investment casting.
Dental Model Resin: Designed for crown and bridge models with removable dies, Dental Model Resin is a high-precision, high-accuracy resin. Print crisp margins and contacts within ± 35 microns, and removable dies with consistently tight fit. A smooth, matte surface finish and color similar to gypsum make it easy to switch from analog to digital model production.
The marvels of the Internet let us stay connected even when the front door is locked, so these holiday hours mainly apply to those who call or stop in. We are still able to reply to email, voice messages, and Facebook messages.
December 22: closed
December 25, 26: closed
December 27 – 29: call ahead
Jan 1, 2: closed
Wash down the Southern Ontario Winter blues with 2 eggs, home fries, and your choice of bacon, ham, or sausage… and get a peek into some of Canada’s finest hot rod shops.
Starting at Kypreos on Lancaster St W, then hopping to Schwartz Inc, Breslau (Welder Series, Webber Chassis, and Finishline), then to Hitman Hotrods in Cambridge.
Reserve your seat for breakfast by contacting Homer at 519-742-1070 or by email email@example.com with “breakfast” in the subject.
Coming up in October of 2017 is the 23rd year of the Canadian Street Rodding Hall of Fame’s gala evening, and this year it’s on Saturday October 21st, 2017 BUT this year the location has definitely changed. The new location is theCambridge Hotel and Conference Centre, 700 Hespeler Road, Cambridge, Ontario N3H 5L8 (click here for a map). We will meet and greet at 5:30 pm, with the meal and ceremonies beginning at 6:30 pm. Come and be a part of the induction of the 2017 inductee.
It will be a very relaxed evening this year in a new facility with proper visibility and sound and an open atmosphere. Last year we welcomed the Motor City Car Club as the first “club” to be inducted. This year’s inductee will be chosen from the nominations sent in by you. If you’ve not already sent in your nomination, please do so in the very near future. The deadline is May 1, 2017.
After the ceremonies there will be live entertainment and dancing for your enjoyment. A cash bar will be available and dress is business casual.
The shop will be closed from Thursday till Monday while we’re at the Syracuse Nationals. We don’t have a booth again this year, but I’ll be around the Tucci Hot Rods booth if you’d like to talk with me.
If you’re on Instagram and Facebook and going to Syracuse, you’ll want to make sure you’re following us (just search for welderseries) because I’ll be posting throughout the weekend, and playing a little interactive game with prizes!
Thanks for your support. We’re looking forward to enjoying the weekend. Say hi if you see me!
Dear Welder Series…
When using the MII cross member, what tie rod ends are used on the 60″ track width?
Dear Robert… Robert, it’s best to use rack extenders, but Fairmont tie rod ends can be used. The rack extenders are available from street rod companies that sell racks. They extend the center of the rack at each end. There are different thread pitches on Mustang racks, so I suggest getting the rack and extenders from the same company at the same time. Have 2″ extenders put on each end of the rack.
Dear Welder Series… Question on the triangulated 4 link. I will be ordering the triangulated kit to us on my 8.8 going in my 57 F100. I’m going to order the rear first to see what kind of stance the truck has with a straight axle. I would like to do the MII front end but the vin # is stamped right where the upper brackets would go and I can’t cover that. My question is, do all 4 bars have to be level? Ride height is an unknown till the axle is in. Will anything be affected by having the bars angled?
Dear Robert… Robert, the installation tips are at https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/26254738/Instructions/318500IN.pdf . These are the instructions for the regular and 8.8 4-link. If your 8.8 is from a Mustang, order the 8.8 kit. If your 8.8 is from a leaf spring vehicle, order the regular kit. The bars do not have to be level. There is some tolerance with the mounting points, too.
A comment regarding ride height: We always build so the finished project is at the ride height we want. This is easier to do with coil-overs or air bags than with leaf springs. Ride height clearance over the rear end can be 3″. It might be necessary to c-notch the frame if the ride height you want puts the bottom of the stock rail too close above the axle tube. Make sure there is clearance between the top of the differential housing and the bed floor when the suspension is fully compressed.
The ride height with the stock front suspension should be fairly easy to establish. Then you can stand back and see if the truck is sitting the way you want. If it isn’t, make changes so it will. This will take more time, and maybe more money up front, but you will be happier with the finished product.
We’ve decided to discontinue the 24″ wide flat front crossmember, making the 28″ wide crossmember the winner of the revered “Flat Front Crossmember Battle of 2016”.
The 28″ kit can still be trimmed to fit inside your frame rails, with the option of using it as a C notch if you change your mind about how low you want your front end (hint: you want it lower!). Click the image to view the item in our web store.