Dear Welder Series…
I’ve finally put a representation of pictures together of my project and your product. It has definitely made this easier. This Vega wagon is ultimately getting a wide-body treatment as I chose the 58″ track M-II front to work with the C4 Vette rear at 59″ and wheelbase increased +4in. It will be a driver, not a show piece, for corner carving fun. My plan was/is to rough in the perimeter frame, weld body to it in various places and get it in rolling chassis. I’m almost there. The frame curves I’ve purchased from you has made this a lot easier and less expensive than mandrel bent. I’ve enclosed pics from rear frame section to the front crossmember. Everything will be blasted afterward and I can finish welding making it uni-frame per say and find the other body work needed. My small garage is only heated as needed during winter time so I thought I would keep as much metal covered as possible till ready to do body work. Pardon the hen scratching and tape. I did a lot of figuring and notes on the body as I did this. This Vega is only my 2nd complete car project. Been a fun learning curve for me using your pieces. My first project car is the 383ci V8-Corvair you see in background of one of the photos. I have a lot of photos documenting my progress but also as reference. They are not in any kind of order. Hope these pics show your product(s) in the best possible way, as they are a great product to work with. Thank you
I have included a couple pics so you can see what we have. The crossmember installed will be removed to install your unit. A gentleman started it with his own design and gave up so I appreciate your help on this. The white line is our wheel base of 113″ and that is your Z correct? I will get what you need from that.
Thank you so much.
Dear Jeff…Jeff, the stock wheelbase dimension will usually give the “Z” location. Sometimes the look is better when the wheel/tire is ahead or back slightly from the stock location. This is because of the vehicle rake or even the stock “look” of the wheel and tire in the fender opening that changes with the new ride height. If you have the luxury of putting a fender in place and mocking the tire, it could give some relief to know the line you have was right all along. Or …
Thanks for the pictures.
I’ll try to get cut line info back to you quickly so you can get on with the build.
Dear Welder Series…
We removed the engine and the other cross member to get more accurate measurements for your work sheets. I sent a pic of front frame also. Let me know if you need anything else and thank you for all your help.
Dear Jeff…Jeff, this series of Plymouths gave us issues back in the 80’s when we had the first one to do. I think we were involved with another builder since then. He made new frame rails from the firewall forward.
The high frame arch makes it very difficult to install an independent front end.
The frame width is where the upper a-arm cross shafts will be and the frame arch is also there.
The work-around is to add to the bottom of the frame and remove from the top.
I can do some basic drawings that will show the height of the new bottom and top of the frame using the dropped spindles that you have I can do similar drawings for stock MII spindles.
Would you also please confirm the dimensions from ground to top of frame at CR and TR?
I’ll watch for your reply.
Dear Welder Series…
Let me know when your free for a call again please. The plan is to install 2×4 at 13 1/8″ high and the same width as the inside of the existing rails and it should be more than 14 in in length of clean flat surface to work with on the top. I just want to talk before I cut it up.
My drawings are all based on dropped spindles and 13” ground to the bottom of the 2×4.
Dear Welder Series…
I have attached some pics of the Plymouth for you to have a look at. I got at it this week and it really went well and I thank you so much for all your help and engineering. I left the inner upper rails in as fillers for when the fenders are installed. We have some more finish work to do but we are really happy with the results.
Dear Welder Series… I finally received the engine mounts for LS engine. Delayed a fair bit by Canada Post [due to strike. Workers are back to work now]. After quite a few tries, managed to locate engine where I wanted. Tack welded engine top plate, then made plywood template for vertical rib. Nothing is straightforward on this 52 Cadillac. Both mounts now permanently installed. I’ll be painting them once everything else is complete. Got steering, brakes, exhaust still to figure out. Francois
Thanks to everyone who sent in pictures of how Welder Series products are being used on your projects through the month of April. Hopefully these will spark an idea that you can use on your own project! See below the gallery for links to products shown. The winner (chosen at random by random.org) has been notified and a $50 credit has been applied!
Here are some pictures of the installation of a universal sway bar on a 1942 Chevy pickup. I installed it to the rear of the a arm because it gave me much more room. It was going to be very close to and possibly hitting on the tie rods for the rack and pinion steering. I was very pleased with the sway bar and the installation. I will and have recommended your products. Thanks so much,
The customer bent the arm to clear the tire in a turn.
I recently made the front clip for my project (1934 Plymouth 2 door sedan). It was a pleasure using your Mustang II crossmember kit! My job was easy because the rails are level, square and plumb but the directions were a great help and easy to follow. Thanks for a great product!
You can also see how Jeff made a mock-up coil over using a tube with two tubes welded on the ends. This is always a good thing to have around to keep your car at ride height during the build. Remember, you use the coil over spring to support the car at the designed ride height.
Do you have some Welder Series parts on your car? Please consider sharing them; it’s always helpful to see other people’s work.
Thanks for using our parts, Jeff. Enjoy your Plymouth!
Thought I would share these pictures of a 1946 Hudson Pick up. I installed the diagonal 4 link, 5.3 With a 4L60 transmission and a Mustang coil over front suspension. I used your diagonal four link, engine mounts and transmission mount. Your products are awesome.
5.3 engine mount kit
I like how he mounted the lower frame bracket.
Drop-out transmission mount using Welder Series bits and pieces.
John was in to the shop the other day and asked if we had a bracket for his 8-3/4 Dodge rear end to mount the Panhard bar. We don’t have one specifically for it, and after going over some pictures he had, we brainstormed and came up with something like this:
He used two Versatabs to mount the bar and formed a plate to box them in and to hold the bolts.
Nevermind, let the pictures explain. When we say it’s a universal sway bar kit, Daniel took us up on that claim.
Daniel, I’m guessing you spent at least an hour or more figuring all this out! I don’t know anything about bikes, but this is very impressive. Thanks for the pics, and for using Welder Series parts.
Mark just sent us a few pictures of his Welder Series MII installed in his ’51 Chevy truck. Nice job Mark!
He used our coil over kit, which is a little bit less expensive than the coil spring crossmember kit. The coil overs will cost more up front, but will be easier to fine-tune the ride due to the availability of shock damping and a wider range of spring rates.
Mark has been added to our monthly draw to receive a $50 credit on his account here. We draw a random name from those who send in pictures of our parts being used on their car. Please send pictures to email@example.com.