Category: Miscellaneous

Questions we’ve been asked that don’t really fit into any other category.

Dear Welder Series… T56 Mount?

Dear Welder Series…
Good morning. I am getting ready to put an order together and had a few questions,

1. Your simple transmission mount kit, will it work for a Tremec T56 bolt pattern?
2. Also your universal sway bar. I currently have your 4 link system, will the sway bar shift from side to side for the 4 link movies a 1/4-1/2 ” from side to side when the suspension is traveling.
3. Your exhaust hangers do you have them in stainless 304 or 409?
Thanks, Mike
Dear Mike…
Good questions.

1.  All of our transmission mounts work with the 2268 and 31158G insulator. These insulators both fit your T56 trans. Regarding the crossmembers, https://welderseries.com/Transmission-Mounts-Crossmembers-c13290625, your shifter handle mounting area might hit the crossmember of the 2115 style. If you want to use this mount, the crossmember could be notched for clearance. I like the 2115 because it adds a crossmember to the frame and the drop-out saddle makes it easy to remove the trans.
2.  The rod end links in the sway bar kit allow for left-to-right movement during suspension travel. For more info about sideways movement, you could read https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxUbZIT8qqYCdmF2N2RCR2MxQlU/edit .
3.  We do have stainless exhaust hangers. Stainless hangers are referenced SS, mild steel MS.  Flanges are also available in MS and SS material.
Thanks again for looking at Welder Series for your project.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Awesome thanks for the quick response I appreciate it

Dear Welder Series… sway bar through 34″ OD frame?

Dear Welder Series…

Wanting to buy the sway bar kit for my 57 chevy pickup but have a question.
My frame rails measure 34” outside to outside, is your 36” kit going to be wide enough as I need to put this through the center of the frame rails?
Thanks for any help,
Don

Dear Don…

Hi Don, thanks for your note. The outer tube in the 36” kit is 34” long. It should be ok – it will just look like the bushings go right into the frame rail. If necessary, you can bend the arms away from the rails for additional clearance.

DW Horton
Welder Series Inc.

Dear Welder Series… center section for 67-72 C10?

Dear Welder Series…
Any idea whether the center section will work with a 67-72 C10, and do any of the trans mounts fit a 4L80E?

Thanks,
Russ

Dear Russ…
Thanks for this note, Russell.  

Could you give me your frame’s outside and inside widths (driver’s side to passenger’s side) at the transmission insulator?  

…and the frame rail channel height at that point? (The actual frame size, not the height from the ground.)

I’ll see how the center section looks in those dimensions and get back to you.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Thanks Paul,

I’ve got the following:

Outside frame rail width:  34-1/8″
Inside frame rail top:  29.5″
Inside frame rail bottom:  29″
Frame rail height:  6″

Dear Russ…
The center section will be snug but fine if the rails are boxed corner-to-corner off of the upper flange. If the plates are “step boxed” it will give extra space for a frame mounted booster.

This is based on how the curved lower tubes transition to the boxing plates.

I hope this info helps with your planning.

Paul

Dear Welder Series… minimum thread depth?

Dear Welder Series…
On the 5/8 – 18 adjuster kit, assuming it has approximately 2.5″ of threads on it, what is the least amount of thread that can be screwed into the 4-link bar and still be considered safe? The application is a 1952 Chevy pickup utilizing an 8.8″ Ford Explorer rear axle. It will have a 400hp small block for power. Thanks.

Dear Joe…
Joe, the generally accepted standard for minimum thread engagement is the diameter of the fastener, or in this case, 5/8”.

Thanks for asking.
Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… 35-40 Rear Boxing Plates?

Dear Welder Series…
Do you have any frame repair kits for the rear wheel area for a 39 Ford stock chassis for restoration.
Mainly need the area at the axel hump behind the rear wheel

Bill

Dear Bill…
Bill, we have boxing plates for the rear half of the 1935 – 40 Ford frame. These might help to reinforce the stock rails, if they are still part of the frame. https://www.welderseries.com/Boxing-Plates-1935-40-Ford-p50906470 shows the whole kit (front and rear halves), but the rear plates can be purchased on their own. Part #354002, $50.00 each.

Do you think  this would fix the problem?

Paul

Dear Welder Series… Transmission mount for ’56 F100?

Dear Welder Series…
I’m building a 1956 F100. Supercharged 5.4 with 4r100 trans. I have purchased your engine mounts, but I’m looking for a tranny mount that will work with the 4r100
Thanks

Andy

Dear Andy…
Andy, have a look at our 2115 trans mount and crossmember:


and the 205043 Ford adapter plate:

which use the insulator/rubber mount:

205041 has recently been modified (now #205043) so it will work with transmissions that have rubber mount hole centers from 5-5/16″ to 5-9/16″. All of this has to be filtered by you knowing that I am not at all familiar with this transmission, except by looking online.

Thanks for looking to Welder Series on this problem.

Dear Welder Series… custom transmission mount

Dear Welder Series…
Paul and Dorothy,
Ordered some parts from you all a couple of weeks ago to make a trans mount for a 1990 corvette trans that I am putting in my 56 Chevy pickup. Paul even call the day after I ordered to make sure I ordered the correct parts. Thanks, I appreciate that. Paul said send some pics when I got it made and on the truck so here it goes.
Dale

Dale cherry picked some brackets from other transmission mount kits and made his own. He used our 350 adapter plate, a shock mount plate, and a little tab that normally welds into the adapter plate, but he only used one side of it. You’ll understand when you see the pictures.

This is one of the reasons Welder Series is here. Thanks for being creative, Dale.

DW Horton

Dear Welder Series… do you sell RUBBER BUCKET?

Dear Welder Series…
Hello Customer,
Greetings to you, well I would like to know whether you sell RUBBER BUCKET. Let me know the models,sizes and prices of them. Also I would like to know whether you accept credit card payment. Hope to hear back from you soon.

Best Regards,
Tommy Harrison

Dear Tommy…
Thanks very much for your time and personal request for RUBBER BUCKET. I appreciate your inquiry; I’ve been known to occasionally question the Home Depot salesman as to the availability of cross country skis at their fine store. While our product line is rather large, containing (no pun intended) many varieties of gussets, tabs, and other parts to make building a hot rod a little easier, we unfortunately have not diversified to the point of offering RUBBER BUCKET at this point. In fact, we don’t even sell Mustang II control arms or spindles. My grandpa used to say “DW, you need to get into the RUBBER BUCKET business. If you don’t, some day someone will be beating down your door (they spoke of doors back then… now it would be “beating down your inbox”) wanting all different sizes, and the prices of RUBBER BUCKET, and you won’t have any RUBBER BUCKET to sell. Alternatively, you could sell hot rod parts.”

You see, Tommy, my grandpa was right. He knew that the only alternative to selling many models and sizes of RUBBER BUCKET was to do something I enjoyed.

I took the liberty of doing a quick Google search for you and came up with a nicely made RUBBER BUCKET for equestrian purposes. I’m not sure if you’re into horses or hot rods… maybe that’s why you were asking for different models. I didn’t check if they have a hot rod RUBBER BUCKET. http://kioskkiosk.com/products/rubber-bucket

Thanks again for your time.
DW Horton

p.s. Sorry, I forgot to mention that we do accept credit card payment (and PayPal).

Dear Welder Series… 1937 Ford Truck Boxing Plates?

Dear Welder Series…
I wanted to check that your 35-40 ford boxing plates will work on a 37 ford truck frame. If so I will be ordering immediately.
Thanks

Charles

Dear Charles…
Charles, 1935-41 Ford car and 1935-41 Ford pickups used the same frame rails. Yes, our plates will work with your ’37. They are in stock.

 
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… modify headlight stands?

Dear Welder Series…
DW,
I’ve just been reading your ’32 Build blog regarding modification to the Pete & Jake headlight stands (article 21). Nice work.

This year I acquired a nice ’32 highboy that has those same stands with little hot rod lights (the one with the turn signal in the top edge of the bezel).
I’d like to install ’32 passenger or 33-34 commercial lights with internal turn signal. I’d prefer to not cut and weld as in your article, but I recognize that is probably the correct way to approach the project.
My question; is there a realistic way to modify the swivel/bolt/slot arrangement on the bottom of the light bucket, to use the headlight stands without modification – and still be able to drive at night?
One additional piece, the chassis and stands are powder coated.

Thanks for taking the time to consider my question.
Phil

Dear Phil…
Thanks for the compliment, Phil.
Here are 2 suggestions for mounting the headlights:
Form a “tongue” to take the stock headlight bolt. Wrap the tongue forward to the shock mount. Weld a bolt (probably a flat head allen bolt) to the shock mount end of the tongue to go through the P&J mount.
or…
Have a talented tin-whacker rework the headlight bucket so the mounting bolt will be at the correct angle. If you use the ’32 lights, the reworked area could be polished to not show. The ’33 commercial lights might be easier.
I’ve cc’d this to DW. He might have some other ideas.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Paul,

I really appreciated your “tongue” suggestion and set it as my fallback if I could not get the lights attached properly to the existing headlight stands.
The installation is complete, here is what I did. I selected the ’34 commercial lights that Bob Drake offers with a stainless bucket in addition to the stainless bezel. I found that the headlight stands were tipped slightly forward, a good thing.
I disassembled the lights and moved the plate that holds the mounting bolt so the leading edge (somewhat reshaped) would be very close to the edge of the bucket. I drilled new holes in the plate and remounted it. This has the effect of rotating the top of the bucket forward.
Now, without modification to the bolt or the swivel the face of the bucket can be adjusted beyond vertical a few degrees. I think this will work out (I’ve not driven it at night yet) and I like the look. The first photo above is with one old light and one new light, the other photo is the job completed.
Thanks to all for your encouragement.
Happy New Year,
Phil

Dear Welder Series… Gift Certificate?

Dear Welder Series…
How would I get a gift card for someone?

Dear Nancy…
Thanks for asking, Nancy. We can run your card for any amount you like and apply that amount to your friend’s account. You can also use PayPal. We would send a gift certificate to you as a pdf or we can mail it. They are also available on our web store:

Our toll-free number is 1-888-648-2150 if you want to talk about this or give us your card number over the phone.