Category: Miscellaneous

Questions we’ve been asked that don’t really fit into any other category.

Dear Welder Series… modify headlight stands?

Dear Welder Series…
DW,
I’ve just been reading your ’32 Build blog regarding modification to the Pete & Jake headlight stands (article 21). Nice work.

This year I acquired a nice ’32 highboy that has those same stands with little hot rod lights (the one with the turn signal in the top edge of the bezel).
I’d like to install ’32 passenger or 33-34 commercial lights with internal turn signal. I’d prefer to not cut and weld as in your article, but I recognize that is probably the correct way to approach the project.
My question; is there a realistic way to modify the swivel/bolt/slot arrangement on the bottom of the light bucket, to use the headlight stands without modification – and still be able to drive at night?
One additional piece, the chassis and stands are powder coated.

Thanks for taking the time to consider my question.
Phil

Dear Phil…
Thanks for the compliment, Phil.
Here are 2 suggestions for mounting the headlights:
Form a “tongue” to take the stock headlight bolt. Wrap the tongue forward to the shock mount. Weld a bolt (probably a flat head allen bolt) to the shock mount end of the tongue to go through the P&J mount.
or…
Have a talented tin-whacker rework the headlight bucket so the mounting bolt will be at the correct angle. If you use the ’32 lights, the reworked area could be polished to not show. The ’33 commercial lights might be easier.
I’ve cc’d this to DW. He might have some other ideas.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Paul,

I really appreciated your “tongue” suggestion and set it as my fallback if I could not get the lights attached properly to the existing headlight stands.
The installation is complete, here is what I did. I selected the ’34 commercial lights that Bob Drake offers with a stainless bucket in addition to the stainless bezel. I found that the headlight stands were tipped slightly forward, a good thing.
I disassembled the lights and moved the plate that holds the mounting bolt so the leading edge (somewhat reshaped) would be very close to the edge of the bucket. I drilled new holes in the plate and remounted it. This has the effect of rotating the top of the bucket forward.
Now, without modification to the bolt or the swivel the face of the bucket can be adjusted beyond vertical a few degrees. I think this will work out (I’ve not driven it at night yet) and I like the look. The first photo above is with one old light and one new light, the other photo is the job completed.
Thanks to all for your encouragement.
Happy New Year,
Phil

Dear Welder Series… Gift Certificate?

Dear Welder Series…
How would I get a gift card for someone?

Dear Nancy…
Thanks for asking, Nancy. We can run your card for any amount you like and apply that amount to your friend’s account. You can also use PayPal. We would send a gift certificate to you as a pdf or we can mail it. They are also available on our web store:

Our toll-free number is 1-888-648-2150 if you want to talk about this or give us your card number over the phone.

Dear Welder Series… step notch in ’51 Buick?

Dear Welder Series…
I was looking at your universal step notch kit and had some questions before purchase..
Does your universal notch kit fit or has ever been installed on a 1951 Buick Super?
When installing, does the longer side piece go on the inside or outside of the frame? In your pictures I see it on occasions on the inside and on others on the outside. Or maybe on the part of the frame that is boxed?
Is this notch kit the standard size for “most” notch kits or do other widths and lengths exist? Ex. The top of the step span 8 1/2″  or will others span more?

Dear Gabriel…
Gabriel, I don’t know of an installation in a Buick like yours, but this step notch kit (shown below) has been installed in many frames that are similar. i.e. Full frame, larger vehicles.

The longer piece does go on the inside to, in effect, box the inside of the frame.

We do just make this one size.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts and for these questions.

Dear Welder Series… Steering Column Floor Mount?

Dear Welder Series…
Dear sirs, I have used your products in the past and have asked for advise from time to time and am thankfull for your frank advise. Does Welder Series offer a floor support for a 1 1/2″ steering column tube?

Dear Brock…
Sorry, Brock, we don’t have a floor column support. You have got my brain going, though.

Thanks for using Welder Series parts in your project.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… 1956 F100 transmission mount?

Dear Welder Series…
I’m building a 1956 F100. Supercharged 5.4 with 4r100 trans. I have purchased your engine mounts, but I’m looking for a tranny mount that will work with the 4r100
Thanks

Andy

Dear Andy…
Andy, have a look at our 2115 transmission mount and crossmember (below):

and the 205041 Ford adapter plate (below):

which use the insulator/rubber mount (below):

205041 has recently been modified (new #205042) so it will work with transmissions that have rubber mount hole centers from 5-5/16″ to 5-9/16″. All of this has to be filtered by you knowing that I am not at all familiar with this transmission, except by looking online.

Thanks for looking to Welder Series on this problem.

Dear Welder Series… 5/8-18 LH threaded tubes?

Dear Welder Series…
Hey Paul on the 1″ OD X 1-1/2, 5/8-18 threaded bungs do you have them in left handed thread? I am needing 6 of each.

Dear David…
Thanks for asking, David. We could run 6 of these with a LH thread for $6.00 each. They have been added to our web store:

I hope this will help with your project.

Dear Welder Series… Model A K-Member?

Dear Welder Series…
I have a 1928 Ford Tudor I will be building this summer. I was wondering if you have a simple K-Member that would fit a boxed Model A frame? It could be set up to accept the popular GM auto and manual transmissions. Ok ok and Ford transmissions as well. Also you could supplement it with frame boxing plates for a Model A as well? I will be using the Ansen style swing pedals but you could incorporate provisions for brake master cyl as well as a clutch master or pedals that a customer could make his own clutch linkage with. I’m sure you’ve been asked before but I see no reference anywhere on your web site. Great products keep up the outstanding work.

Respectfully,
George

P.S. I don’t Facebook or Tweet its not my style. Sorry……

Dear George…
Thanks for including Welder Series in your Model ‘A’ plans, George. We don’t make boxing plates for the ‘A’ frame, but we can suggest a K-member that is inexpensive and effective: use our 2115 transmission mount & crossmember (shown below):

and make a ‘K’ using 3 x 1-1/2″ tubing angling from the center/rear of the trans crossmember back and out to the frame rails. We have adapters for Ford transmissions, too.

Keep us up to date on your project, please.

Dear Welder Series… custom bushing tubes?

Dear Welder Series…
Can I get the outer bushing tube and the inner bushing tube in custom lengths? I’m looking at using your 7/8″ rod with the welded bushing tube on the end, but I will need that bushing part to be longer. The bushings will be separated, I know, this is why I would need the inner one to be the same length as the outer. This is not going to be used on a high stress situation, in fact there will be no weight put on it at all. Thanks

Dear Mike…
Mike, please send some dimensions for the parts you want made and we will get back to you. I think we can look after this.

Dear Welder Series… what kind of tubing do you use?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi I was wondering if your 4 link tubing is DOM? thanks Jad

Dear Jad…
Yes, Jad, our tubing is DOM (Drawn Over Mandrel), also called Seamless tubing. This is high quality and quite different from pipe or HSS (Hollow Structural Section) or CREW (Cold Rolled Electric Welded) tubing. These last 3 types all have a welded seam the length of the tube.

Our DOM bars are threaded directly. The bars for the large bushings are 1″ OD x .188″ (3/16″) wall threaded 3/4-16.

Thanks for asking.

Dear Welder Series… Model A parts

Dear Welder Series…
Hi, I’m building a 1931 model a sport coupe. I am in the process of boxing the rails. What I am interested in is your m2 frond end kit. I am also interested in the back frame member shown in your video, but cannot find it in your online catalog. I plan on using a 4.6 liter, with and AOD trans. I will also be interested in a kit for the motor and trans mounts for the same. Can you advise? also please send a catalog to:
Paul

Dear Paul…
Paul, here are some products you are looking at:

Model ‘A’ Mustang II:

 

Model ‘A’ rear crossmember (for narrowed rails):

 

4.6 L engine mounts:

Transmission mount:

To use the 2115-style mount, you will have to make a transmission adapter similar to this product:

(Check the hole spacing on your transmission with the specs in the description.)

We will mail a catalog to you.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… Bring Parts to Louiville?

Dear Welder Series…
Hello, I would like to know if it is possible to order a part from the catalog and that you bring it for me to the NSRA meeting in Louisville. I will visit that. I am from Holland.
I leave for USA this Tuesday, please let me know as soon as possible.
Thanks
Eddy

Dear Eddy…
Eddy, we will not have a display at Louisville this year. We will just drive our car there and walk around, enjoying the event. We could ship your order to your hotel and have them hold it for you.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… which notch?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi just wondering if you had a c notch kit for a 1956 f100 truck frame.

Thanks Greg

Dear Greg…
Greg, we have a couple of notch kits, depending on how “notched” you want to go.  If you want to notch the bottom of the frame rail, look at this:

If you want to put a step in the frame, see this:

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… Frame Curve Radius?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi there. I was hoping to find a horizontally-bent “frame curve” in 2″ x 5″ (3″ x 5″ would be ideal), but your Web site shows only up to 2″ x 4″. Oh well, as this is for a rear bumper that I’m designing, I can make do with the 2″ x 4″.

But I wonder if you can tell me the radius of curvature of the outside curve on your horizontal 2″ x 4″? I would like to match the curved rear quarter panel of a ’76 Toyota Landcruiser, which I believe has a 5″ to 6″ radius of curvature.

Thank you!

Dear Glen…
Glen, the inside radius is 4″ on all of our frame curves. The outside radius would be 6″ on a 2×4 horizontal curve (4″ + 2″).

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… Engine Angle Question

Dear Welder Series…
I am building a 37 two door sedan. I have put in one of your Mustang II front suspension kits, which worked fine. Now I am installing the motor, which is a 1999 LS1 5.7L. My question is how important is the three degree tilt back on the engine. Three degree will work but 5 degree would put the tailstock below the the top of the frame and would mean less floor modifications. I did just purchase one of your center section kits but it is not going to work the way you [supplied] it, because the drive shaft is too close to the top of the frame. I will be using all the pieces, just laying it out differently. Any feed back would be appreciated.
Thanks

Ray

Dear Ray…
Ray, 3 or 5 degrees will be fine. We normally set engines up at 4 degrees and that extra bit won’t hurt anything. Check out the link below for motor mounting tips.

http://welderseries.com/tech/tech-sharing/motor-mounting-tips/

Please send pictures of what you do with our center section… it’s always nice to see our parts ‘in action’.

Thanks for using Welder Series parts.