Dear Welder Series…
Received my order today. Your parts are absolutely fabulous. Just as advertised.
I do have a question though. Take a look at the pictures. The threaded bolt that goes into the threaded end of the pan hard bar on the end that gets welded to a bushing has a slight angle cut in it. Different from the others. I was wondering if it was supposed to be welded on an angle for mounting purposes or just a flaw in the cut off the bolt.
Hi Mike, thanks for your comments. The adjuster included in the universal panhard kit goes on the red end bracket and is notched on a 5 degree angle to clear the pinion. You’ll also notice the two frame tabs are different lengths – this is to compensate for the angle of the bar at the frame.
I came across this build on the 67-72chevytrucks.com forum and asked the builder if I could share the pics here. He used our step notch, rear four link, Panhard, and center section. Here’s the link to the build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=653414
Nice work! Parts used:
John was in to the shop the other day and asked if we had a bracket for his 8-3/4 Dodge rear end to mount the Panhard bar. We don’t have one specifically for it, and after going over some pictures he had, we brainstormed and came up with something like this:
He used two Versatabs to mount the bar and formed a plate to box them in and to hold the bolts.
Thanks for sending the pics, John!
Dear Welder Series…
I have a 1951 Chevrolet truck 1/2 ton putting a 2002 Chevy S10 4×4 Blazer 8.5 ring gear rear w/disc brakes in. I want to use the 4 link system, which one of yours will work easiest and best?
Don, the decision regarding a parallel or a triangulated rear 4-link is somewhat philosophical. Here is my explanation:
Both kits do a good job of locating the rear end, holding it in place, and letting the suspension work.
The triangulated kit costs less than the parallel kit because a Panhard bar is not required.
The parallel kit does require a Panhard kit (about $100.00). The parallel kit is easier to adjust for squaring the rear axle to the frame center line, and centering the frame left-to-right.
The Panhard bar does move the frame left-to-right as the frame goes up and down, but if a straight Panhard bar is installed level, this amount is insignificant (about 1/8″ with a 19″ bar) for normal suspension travel.
I hope this helps you decide. Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Hey, I'm looking at your 4 link pro street kit, and would like as well a kit for coil overs and panhard bar, for a 31 Ford.
It would work best for a panhard bar to be about 12” to 15” long in my application. Some input would be appreciated.
I'm wondering about your brackets 21842. I'm building a watts link and want to use a bracket similar to what you have. But can I simply bent one backwards and have a left and right side bracket?
I would like to convert to IFS front and 4 link in the rear.
From the website I see the 60" Mustang II (WS21900) is the appropriate size but would like to know if it would be compatible with Shock Waves.
Yaril (tylerdurben on the H.A.M.B.) is working on his second truck in this series, and called us for the rear four link, panhard kit, and some air bag brackets.
Jeff (aka "Biscuit Eater" on the HAMB) is working on his first hot rod project - a '29 Ford pickup.
Here is my front end set-up pics. I would like to mount a pan hard bar? I'm open for suggestions.