Dear Welder Series… 1973 Scout Mustang II

This is an email thread from 2021. I’m not sure why I didn’t get it in the DWS section then, but here it is. You’ll notice that the emails begin at the bottom.

Products:

From: Duke

Subject: Re: Scout

Date: June 16, 2021, at 2:47:29 PM EDT

To: Paul Horton

Just finishing up here at work. I’ll get up with you in the morning on the phone with those dimensions. Thanks for all your help.

— Duke


On Wed, Jun 16, 2021, at 9:38 AM, Paul Horton wrote:

Good morning, Duke,

You were right with your picture of the horizontal red line. Today’s emails show we are both on the same page and can move forward. Thanks for noting the 60-1/2” track width.

With the top of the 2×4 tube horizontal, you can just give me dimensions from the ground to the top. If the 2x4s can be parallel (driver and passenger), only a set of inside or outside dimensions is necessary.

Please let me know by email if there is a time when you would like me to call. You can also leave a message on our voicemail. DW is usually in the shop and can’t answer the phone quickly, and I’m often away from my desk.

Thanks for working with us.
— Paul


On Jun 16, 2021, at 8:28 AM, Duke wrote:

Just looked at the picture again, and my last email should have read “need 3″ after Z”—not 4 inches.


On Wed, Jun 16, 2021, at 8:24 AM, Duke wrote:

Hope the pictures make sense. That is the passenger side, by the way.

I’m thinking of the 60″ track width (60-1/2″), which is the actual stock number on the Scout. I realize the crossmember will be OD 34″ (my frame is 33″ stock). I am slightly worried about getting the perches on at the correct angle and assume the crossmember is square and true to the ground.

To reiterate—

  • I think I will need 4″ after Z and then up to 25″ after Z in 2×4 tubing.
  • I also know that the frame is heading uphill at that number and plan on leaving some of the original frame to tie back to the new frame tubes.

On Wed, Jun 16, 2021, at 8:13 AM, Duke wrote:

Hey Paul, Duke here with the Scout.

“Another way the MII can be installed is by adding tubing to the bottom of the existing frame and then removing the stock frame section where the MII crossmember and towers mount. This is roughly 8” ahead and behind ‘Z’. The bottom of the tubing should still be at MII spindle height.”

I believe the last picture I sent you the other day shows this exact remedy. (I will resend in a new email.)

I would need a piece of 2×4 tubing (x2)—the center of the crossmember would mount 9.5 inches forward from the rear of the frame, and a total length of 24 or 25 inches will get me to the radiator support. This puts the bottom of the frame 14 inches from the ground.

I would like to leave as much of the original frame as possible until the new frame is secure. I would need a few gussets and/or birdsmouths to secure it. I’ll check in with you this afternoon to see if this is doable and, if so, get going on an order.

Thanks,
Duke


On Mon, Jun 14, 2021, at 7:05 PM, Paul Horton wrote:

Thanks for the pictures. You have done a lot of work.

I did a quick search to see if anyone had posted pictures of installing a Mustang II (MII) front end in a Scout, but nothing came up.

This installation will be much like others where the frame doesn’t invite an MII crossmember. We would cut off the frame at the firewall and use 2×3 or 2×4 tubing as a front clip.

The build would be done with the frame at ride height from a base—either the floor or a frame table. The bottom of the tubes would be at the same height as a stock MII spindle in the wheel & tire setup—this is usually in the 13”–14” range.

The frame tubes would be run level and parallel, with width depending on the track width of the chosen kit.

Track Width Determination:

  1. Position the wheels and tires to be used in the wheel wells.
  2. Measure wheel mounting flange to flange.
  3. Decide which kit and combination of parts (control arms and brakes) will get you there.

Additional Fabrication Required:

  • Body mounts
  • Bumper mounts
  • Radiator support
  • Other necessary brackets

This is a lot of work but depends mostly on careful planning.

Alternative Installation Method:

Another way the MII can be installed is by adding tubing to the bottom of the existing frame and then removing the stock frame section where the MII crossmember and towers mount. This is roughly 8” ahead and behind ‘Z’. The bottom of the tubing should still be at MII spindle height.

Let me know if anything is unclear—this will be a neat project.

— Paul


On Jun 14, 2021, at 6:11 PM, Duke wrote:

  • Cut the red lines at the 4-inch and below mark.
  • Tie the front back with gussets.
  • Use a bar from the firewall to just in front of the radiator support.

Am I close???
This is fun!!

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