Tag: 318500

Dear Welder Series – triangulated upper bar location

Dear Welder Series…
I am researching the install of your Triangulated Four Link on a 57 Pontiac. Do the rear mounts of the upper bars need to be on top of the axle tube? I noticed, even in the pictures of some installs on this site, that some rear upper bar mounts are on the FRONT of the axle tube. Is there a problem mounting them in front of the tube. I am not sure, in my case, I have the room to mount them on top without cutting up the floor.

Your input would be greatly appreciated.

Dear Writer…
Putting the upper bars on top of the axle tubes gives better leverage advantage than on the front of the tube. The bars can also be longer than with the front mounting position. A downside is that the bar will mount 2 – 3″ higher than with the front-of tube position and this can cause floor interference.

Dear Welder Series… 1978 3/4t four link?

Dear Welder Series…
I have a 1978 3/4 ton Chevy pick up and am wanting to change out the rear suspension. I got an estimate from a suspension shop and they wanted $2300.00 dollars just for labor!

Do you have a kit (or one that can be adapted)that I can install myself?

Dear Robert…
Robert, Welder Series has a parallel and a triangulated rear suspension kit. Both kits are generic and have been used in a wide range of frames. We put the installation sheets on our website so builders can check mounting point locations and satisfy themselves about the suitability of our kits for their application. (I haven’t built this series truck.)

Please check the installation sheets at https://www.welderseries.com/Triangulated-Four-Link-Kit-p49926314 and at https://www.welderseries.com/Rear-Four-Link-Kit-Parallel-p51428446. With the parallel kit you will need a Panhard bar, too. https://www.welderseries.com/Rear-c13325077

Thanks for looking at our parts.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… triangulated four bar bar lengths?

Dear Welder Series…
How can you calculate the length of the upper and lower bars so to know that your rear four link will work effectively ? I have a 1956 chevy bel air will use coilovers!

Dear Ken…
Ken, a triangulated rear 4-link is fairly forgiving if you need to change bar dimensions a bit. Our standard bar lengths will work well in your Chev.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… will your triangulated four link lay frame?

Dear Welder Series…
With your triangulated four link does this allow the truck or the vehicle to lay flat on the ground in the rear with the air bags deflated?

Dear Brian…
Hi Brian, thanks for your note. This would depend on where you establish the ride height when you’re setting up the suspension. It will also depend on a few other factors; axle to frame rail clearance, shock travel, and whether or not there is anything else that might get in the way of the vehicle and the ground. So I suppose I should answer your question something like this: “yes, BUT…”.
I hope this helps…
DW Horton

Dear Welder Series… 1951 Chev truck rear suspension?

Dear Welder Series…
I have a 1951 Chevrolet truck 1/2 ton putting a 2002 Chevy S10 4×4 Blazer 8.5 ring gear rear w/disc brakes in. I want to use the 4 link system, which one of yours will work easiest and best?

Thank you!

Dear Don…
Don, the decision regarding a parallel or a triangulated rear 4-link is somewhat philosophical. Here is my explanation:

Both kits do a good job of locating the rear end, holding it in place, and letting the suspension work.

The triangulated kit costs less than the parallel kit because a Panhard bar is not required.

 

The parallel kit does require a Panhard kit (about $100.00). The parallel kit is easier to adjust for squaring the rear axle to the frame center line, and centering the frame left-to-right.

The Panhard bar does move the frame left-to-right as the frame goes up and down, but if a straight Panhard bar is installed level, this amount is insignificant (about 1/8″ with a 19″ bar) for normal suspension travel.

I hope this helps you decide. Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… Triangulated four link upper bar angle?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul I am in the middle of installing one of your triangulated four links. How much angle do I need on the upper part. (angle from frame rail to rear housing if looking from top). If I have to shorten the upper bars what would you suggest the min. length be? Thanks

Dear Derek…
Derek, the upper bar frame bracket is designed to mount the bar at 27 degrees off of the frame. It might be hard to reduce this angle very much and still put a wrench on the nut, if the nut will even go on. Another option might be to mount the axle end of the upper bars just inside the frame rails and angle them towards the frame centerline. Then add a new crossmember and mount the frame brackets to it. This way the bars can stay at their original length. As the bars get shorter, the pinion angle changes more dramatically as the suspension works. I hope this helps.
Paul

Dear Welder Series… parallel vs. triangulated four link

Dear Welder Series…
I have a 1951 Chevrolet truck 1/2 ton putting a 2002 Chevy S10 4×4 Blazer 8.5 ring gear rear w/disc brakes in. I want to use the 4 link system, which one of yours will work easiest and best?

Thank you!

Dear Don…
Don, the decision regarding a parallel or a triangulated rear 4-link (both shown below) is somewhat philosophical. Here is my explanation:

Both kits do a good job of locating the rear end, holding it in place, and letting the suspension work.

The triangulated kit costs less than the parallel kit because a Panhard bar is not required.

The parallel kit does require a Panhard kit (about $100.00). The parallel kit is easier to adjust for squaring the rear axle to the frame center line, and centering the frame left-to-right.

The Panhard bar does move the frame left-to-right as the frame goes up and down, but if a straight Panhard bar is installed level, this amount is insignificant (about 1/8″ with a 19″ bar) for normal suspension travel.

 

I hope this helps you decide. Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… triangulated four link angle question

Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul I am in the middle of installing one of your triangulated four links. How much angle do I need on the upper part? (angle from frame rail to rear housing if looking from top). If I have to shorten the upper bars what would you suggest the min. length be? Thanks

Dear Derek…
Derek, the upper bar frame bracket is designed to mount the bar at 27 degrees off of the frame. It might be hard to reduce this angle very much and still put a wrench on the nut, if the nut will even go on. Another option might be to mount the axle end of the upper bars just inside the frame rails and angle them towards the frame centerline. Then add a new crossmember and mount the frame brackets to it. This way the bars can stay at their original length. As the bars get shorter, the pinion angle changes more dramatically as the suspension works.

I hope this helps.

Paul

Dear Welder Series…Four Link for a Nova?

Dear Welder Series…
Hello,  I am looking at your triangulated 4 link kits and I am going to put a 4 link in my Nova. My question is will your kits work in my 72 Nova that has been mini tubbed? If so which kit do I need? Thank you very much for your help and I look forward to hearing back from you.

Thanks,
Tim

Dear Tim…
Tim, our triangulated rear kit (shown below) has been used in lots of different applications. We put the instruction sheets on the website so you can check the dimensions against your frame and possible interference items. http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-triangulated

I hope this helps… Let me know if you have other questions after looking at the drawings.

Dear Welder Series… 1951 F1 Mustang II & Four Link?

Dear Welder Series…
I’m just getting started on a frame-off resto for a 1951 Ford F1 Pickup. What do you have available for a Mustang-2 IFS Kit and a 4-Link Rear Kit.
Thanks, Jay

Dear Jay…
Jay, we have two Mustang II kits that you could consider. Here they are:

You will need the 58″ model of these kits.

At the back, we have parallel and triangulated rear 4-link kits (shown below)

A Panhard kit (shown below), should be used with the parallel kit.

 

We also have engine & transmission  mounts and brake pedal assemblies that would be great on your F-1.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… Four Link for 1965 Mustang?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi, I’m after a rear 4 link for my 65 mustang for general road use, no racing, do you have a setup similar to [the other guys] setups & if so prices & cost of  shipping to California 90200, USA, unless you good rates to New Zealand, if you can help I’ll phone you.

thanks Rob.

Dear Rob…
Rob, Welder Series has a parallel and a triangulated rear 4-link.  Both kits are “universal”, meaning they can be used in a wide range of applications, but they require modifications (mainly bar length) to use in your Mustang.

Here are the kits:

The parallel kit will need a Panhard bar:

Freight cost to California would be 10% of the order total with a minimum charge of $15 and a maximum charge of $60.00.  All of our prices are in Canadian Dollars.  We can ship to New Zealand by Parcel Post and would quote a rate based on what you would like to order.

We are working hard at getting the website picture issues resolved.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.