Category: dear welder series

Paul Horton’s replies to actual tech emails.

Dear Welder Series… Triangulated 4 bar with Buggy Spring?

Dear Welder Series…
I am currently building a model a coupe and working on the rear suspension. I have a couple of questions. I’m going to use a buggy spring and was planning on using a 40 Ford wish bone but I’m having my doubts as to weather it will hold up under the power of a nailhead. My questions are can I run a triangulated 4 bar with the buggy spring? I’m also leaning towards ladder bars. Can these be modified and scrap the clevis fittings on the rear mount in favor of urethane on all the joints or would it make it too stiff of a ride.
Thanks for any help,

Dear Kevin…
Sounds like a neat project, Kevin. The triangulated rear 4-link can be used with the buggy spring if the spring is mounted behind the housing. If the spring is on top, it might interfere with the upper bar brackets.

If you decide to use the ladder bars, it will be much easier to stay with the clevises. The front-mounted urethane bushings isolate the whole assembly, so the ride will be pretty much equal.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… Mustang II crossmember notching

Dear Welder Series…
Does the coilover crossmember for a Mustang II go up the outside of the frame or do you have to notch it in?

Dear Don…
Hi, Don.

The crossmember and the upper spring towers get notched to fit the frame dimensions. Usually, the crossmember welds to the inside and under the frame rail but this depends on the track width, frame inside and outside dimensions, and the frame height relative to spindle height.
I can show you where the frame and tower notches will be for your application according to the instructions at: .
Please send the following dimensions:
Spindle height or front tire size you will use
Frame width, inside
at CF
at CR
Frame width outside
at CF
at CR
at TF
at TR
Bottom of frame to ground
at CF
at CR
Top of frame to ground
at CF
at CR
at TF
at TR
With this info, I’ll be able to show you which kit width will fit and how the crossmember and towers will have to be notched. I can also make suggestions regarding stock or dropped spindles. Then you can position your wheels and tires and see how the truck will look.
Thanks for getting back to me. I want to help you with your project.

Dear Welder Series… Corvette sway bar questions

Dear Welder Series…

I am wanting to install a rear sway bar on my 1978 corvette. Due to modifications to corvette and rim/tire size, a factory bar will not work.
This kit seems to be the closest to what will work for me but it I am hoping to get some more information from you before I purchase.
1)  Can you confirm the length of the torsion bar is 45″? If not what is the actual total length. The corvette frame is right around 43-44″ wide  and it needs to sit directly under it. There is minimal area to go narrower but is probably possible. Obviously I can trim it too.
2)  The outer tube what is the supplied length?  — so I can figure out if an under frame mount will work or I will have to fab up some custom brackets.
3)  What does the under frame mount look like?
4)  The lower link mounts won’t work in my situation so can they be removed with the  coil over mounts for a bit more cost savings.
5)  Do you have a detailed drawing (or a scale PDF) that I could print out, cut out to see if it would work around the interferences I have.
If you had a 45″ kit without any bracketry (swaybar , tube, bushings, arms, couplers and rod ends for the links)  that would be ideal.

Dear Mike…
Hi, Mike.

1)  The actual sway bar is 45” long. One end has 1” of spline. This bar is designed to be used as-is or cut to length. We also have 45” bars splined both ends. The 3/8” thick arms mount outside the bar, so if the 45” bar was used as is, the distance outside the arms would be 45-3/4”.
2)  The supplied outer tube is 1-3/8” OD and 43” long.
3)  The under frame mounting bracket:
4)  The lower axle mounts for the links can be taken out of the kit:
5)  I don’t have a single drawing of the whole kit. Dimensions for the various parts should all be on the website.
Welder Series is a “builder supply” company and, as such, all parts are available individually. They are shown on our website with dimension details. Please get in touch again if we can give you some other info.
Thanks for looking at our parts for your project.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…

Thanks for the info, it helps greatly.
I am just working out  how to best mount it, what parts will work in my case and also ways to keep the weight of the added system in check.

Dear Welder Series… Unhole Tip

Dear Welder Series…
I tried to attach these to the review but it wouldn’t let me. I found that if I used a step drill and drilled the finish dia of the plug (5/8″) 1/2 way thru it left enough shelf to support the plug and was tight enough to fuse with the TIG.
I hope this helps,

Dear Jim…
Great idea! I hope someone else sees this and is able to make use of it. I always find it a bit of a hitch in my step when the next size on the step drill isn’t quite far enough away to go through the whole thickness of the material, and it leaves a lip that needs to be removed… this idea almost redeems that :).

Dear Welder Series… MII for Datsun 521?

Dear Welder Series…
Hello, I was looking at your Mustang II crossmember kit. I’d like to get one for my Datsun 521. I was wondering if you would be able to decrease the width of the crossmember sections by 3” to accommodate the more narrow track width of my truck. I guess I could section it myself but that wouldn’t look as clean. The suspension parts aren’t readily available for my truck so I’d like to use this setup.

Dear John…
Hi, John.

We can make special width crossmembers, but…
The actual track width might not turn out to be what you hoped for. The brake kit used can move the wheel in or out from where the stock Mustang II was. You might also find that narrow control arms can be used that will reduce the track width and give more clearance in the engine room for exhaust and steering, even if you will use the stock engine.
Our website has some Mustang II dimensions at These dims will give a track width of 56-1/2” when stock 1974-78 Mustang II rotors and control arms are used. Narrowing the dimensions, top and bottom, will bring the wheels closer together by that amount. Shorter control arms will do the same. The brakes used might move the wheels in or out. We have info about our brake kits at:
If you use 4-bolt MII rotors, there should be no change.
My suggestion is:
Get everything you need except the crossmember kit, springs, shocks, and the steering rack. (Wheels & tires, brakes, spindles, and control arms)  A custom rack will have to be ordered after the width has been determined. Springs and shocks can come after that.
Remove the stock front suspension.
Block the truck at ride height.
Mock up the wheels & tires, rotors, spindles and lower control arms.
Position the tires in the fender. The tires should be very close the vertical.
Block the lower control arms at horizontal.
Measure the lower control arm mounting hole center-to-center.
Subtract that dimension from 22-1/4”. This is the amount to remove from the crossmember.
Buy our 56-1/2” kit and remove that amount from between the rack mounts.
The rack will have to be shortened the same amount.
Before doing much more, check the cost of this to be sure you are comfortable with it.
I hope this helps with this part of the project.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…

Thank you for all the information and help. I figured that the control arms would have to be shortened as well. I saw a couple of your customers vehicles who did the same thing. Have a Happy New Year.

Dear Welder Series… T56 Mount?

Dear Welder Series…
Good morning. I am getting ready to put an order together and had a few questions,

1. Your simple transmission mount kit, will it work for a Tremec T56 bolt pattern?
2. Also your universal sway bar. I currently have your 4 link system, will the sway bar shift from side to side for the 4 link movies a 1/4-1/2 ” from side to side when the suspension is traveling.
3. Your exhaust hangers do you have them in stainless 304 or 409?
Thanks, Mike
Dear Mike…
Good questions.

1.  All of our transmission mounts work with the 2268 and 31158G insulator. These insulators both fit your T56 trans. Regarding the crossmembers,, your shifter handle mounting area might hit the crossmember of the 2115 style. If you want to use this mount, the crossmember could be notched for clearance. I like the 2115 because it adds a crossmember to the frame and the drop-out saddle makes it easy to remove the trans.
2.  The rod end links in the sway bar kit allow for left-to-right movement during suspension travel. For more info about sideways movement, you could read .
3.  We do have stainless exhaust hangers. Stainless hangers are referenced SS, mild steel MS.  Flanges are also available in MS and SS material.
Thanks again for looking at Welder Series for your project.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Awesome thanks for the quick response I appreciate it

Dear Welder Series: sway bar for Camaro clip?

Dear Welder Series…

Hey DW.
Hope all is well sir
Am working on a 39 Chev that someone has grafted a Camaro (I think) clip on with stock control arms.

I can’t get the factory sway bar in around the bottom of the rad etc.

Do you have parts available in your universal sway bar kit(s) to make something work?


Dear John…
Good morning, John. Paul Horton here.

The tube that encloses our sway bar is 1-3/8” diameter and installs straight across the frame. It can go below, through, or above the frame, 8 – 10” behind or in front of where the sway bar arms will link to the upper or lower control arms. In an IFS installation, often the outer tube is slightly longer than the outside width of the frame where it mounts. The arms have to be bent for tire clearance in a turn.
I’m not familiar with the stock Camaro bar and where it doesn’t clear, but maybe the above info and the pics on the web store will give you some ideas. You could email pics to and I’d see if I could make some suggestions.
Thanks for considering our sway bar.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Good enough sir thank you very much

Dear Welder Series… 4.7 Dodge engine mounts?

Dear Welder Series…


I’m looking through your website looking for a way to mount a Dodge Dakota 4.7L into a Dodge 1500 chassis. I’m doing an engine/trans/body swap of a Dakota onto a 99 Dodge 1500 frame with a straight Dana 44 front axle. I figure I’d have to build or modify something. Any ideas?  



Dear Kraig…

Hi, Kraig.

From pics on the internet, it looks like your engine has threaded bosses on the side of the block. We could make mounts similar to our LS mounts but with a plate that would bolt to the existing bosses on your engine. The center of the urethane bushing would be 3-3/8” off of the block boss surface.

This can be easy IF:
– The boss’ surfaces are all on the same plane. If they are not, shims could be used between the low one(s) and the main plate.
– Nothing else wants the same space as the mount. This could be exhaust or engine accessories or…

The tabs would be trimmed to fit and welded to the frame. 

We would need accurate hole spacing and thread size from you.  

Does this seem like a solution?  Thanks for asking us.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Yes, that is what I was thinking.

The engine is offset to the passenger side to allow space for the front drive shaft. So there is about 6 ½” between the block and frame on the passenger side and 9 ½” on the driver’s side.

There is a total of 8 threaded holes on each side of the block for mounts. There are 4 holes that are on the same plane (or close to it, might need a small shim) that will work for the new mounts.  

But I ordered parts to relocate the steering box and want to get that done before continuing with the motor mounts.

I’ll get back to you.

Dear Welder Series…

I would like to get the motor mounts on order for the 4.7 liter Dodge engine.

  • The motor is offset in the engine bay. About 6.5” on the passenger side and 9.5” on the driver’s side to the inside of the frame. I want to be sure the brackets will reach.
  • The boss surfaces on the side of the block are all on the same plane. The 4.7 block has a raised area in it that will interfere with the plate, that I’ll have to notch out for at the bottom of the plate. Or put spacers at all 4 bolts so the plate is above the hump. Or a little of each. What do you think?
  • The mounting bolts are 10mm x 1.50 coarse thread. See attached drawing for plate size and hole pattern.
  • I saw how you cut around the bolt holes in the corners of your plate. I would prefer to have more meat around the holes, so a rectangle plate is preferred.

Let me know what the cost is and how to get this going.

Dear Kraig…
Hello, Kraig.

I have done CAD files for the two engine plates exactly like your drawings.  

The gusset and bushing for the LS mount locates the bushing center 3-3/8” off of the block boss surface and at 90 degrees to the boss surface.  The 20494 Versatabs have the hole center 5-1/2” from the frame edge.  This doesn’t add up to 9-1/2” but it might be worse or better depending on angles and bracket height.  The spacers you suggest might help with the distance issue as well as clear the hump.

Let me know what you think of the spacer idea or if we should consider a longer set of engine plate/gusset combination or a longer Versatab.

Thanks for the drawing.  It’s very clear what you want.


Dear Welder Series…
The 9.5” dimension was taken from the inside of the frame to the edge of the oil pan. The motor mount will be above that on the angled part of the block, which will put it closer to the frame rail. Plus the spacers will move it forward as well. I’ll look at it again tonight, but I’m willing to give it a try with your stock mounts and putting spacers between the bosses and plate at each bolt. Worst case, I’ll have to make a set of longer Versatabs, or shim them out from the frame with a piece of ¼” plate.

Dear Welder Series… sway bar through 34″ OD frame?

Dear Welder Series…

Wanting to buy the sway bar kit for my 57 chevy pickup but have a question.
My frame rails measure 34” outside to outside, is your 36” kit going to be wide enough as I need to put this through the center of the frame rails?
Thanks for any help,

Dear Don…

Hi Don, thanks for your note. The outer tube in the 36” kit is 34” long. It should be ok – it will just look like the bushings go right into the frame rail. If necessary, you can bend the arms away from the rails for additional clearance.

DW Horton
Welder Series Inc.

Dear Welder Series… why are there three holes on the axle brackets?

Dear Welder Series…

Hey DW
Hope all is well sir and you are having a good year so far.
A question came up in our shop this weekend and I am wondering if you could let me know the correct answer when time permits please!

The axle brackets on your parallel 4 link kits- the 3 holes on the rear for shock mounts- are the 3 holes used for initial ride height setup ONLY, or are they options to be used for future ride hide adjustments??

Great debate here on whether they are meant to be used adjusting the ride height whenever you want or if they are meant to be a ‘one time’ use during the chassis build.

Could you let me know the official response please? (I have a $100 wager on this)


Dear John…

Hi, John.

DW suggested we give you the answer you want for a cut of the action… (Just kidding…)

My “official” answer is: Nobody loses this bet.

Usually the 3 holes are used as a lower mounting point for coil-overs or ShockWaves. They can be used as shock mounts when conventional air bags are used, but my first thought is for coil-over suspension. That’s the basis for my answer.

Coil-overs and ShockWaves have a “designed ride height”. We feel a custom vehicle should be built with the suspension at ride height. Physical constraints might dictate the (ideal) location for the upper coil-over mount. The 3 axle bracket holes will give some flexibility to the upper mounting hole location, since the (fixed) coil-over ride height is important to the vehicle ride height. So the wager winner is the initial ride height setup only… maybe…

The 3 holes allow for future adjustments that might involve different coil-overs, different wheel/tire combinations, or a different “look” desired for display at a car show. I have moved the lower coil-over up a hole when going on a vacation trip with a “kitchen sink” in the trunk. So the wager winner winner is the adjustable person… maybe…

I hope you two have a laugh over this and save your money for Welder Series parts.

Thanks for writing. It’s been fun answering.
Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…

Thank you very much Mr. Horton

As always I appreciate your responses. (I will selectively edit parts of your response and attempt to cut you guys in as I might lose now)

Another question if I may- wouldn’t adjusting up or down a hole as you suggested at the bottom throw off your driveline angles? Or would the difference be minimal?

What brought this about is a wager on my Model A coupe- it rides a touch too high in the back & the wager was whether you can drop it a hole and not throw everything off. 

Thanks, John.

Dear John…
Raising or lowering the rear by 1” on a Model A will change the driveline angle by less than 1/2 of 1 degree. I’d consider this minimal and should not cause a problem… unless the driveline angle is already borderline. Lowering the rear could be offset by shimming the transmission mount.

Dear Welder Series…

Well sir I appreciate your insight very much regardless of the $100 I just lost haha

Thank you very much regardless


LS in a 52 Cadillac

Dear Welder Series…
I finally received the engine mounts for LS engine. Delayed a fair bit by Canada Post [due to strike. Workers are back to work now].
After quite a few tries, managed to locate engine where I wanted. Tack welded engine top plate, then made plywood template for vertical rib. Nothing is straightforward on this 52 Cadillac.
Both mounts now permanently installed. I’ll be painting them once everything else is complete. Got steering, brakes, exhaust still to figure out.

Dear Welder Series… 1965 Lincoln Mustang II?

Dear Welder Series…
Would you have a Mustang 2 crossmember solution for my problem. My frame rails curve inward and gets narrow at the crossmember/motor mount location so I would require a crossmember of about 24” wide between the car’s frame. The problem is my track width is 62”. Available Mustang 2 crossmember kits that measure 24” typically have a track width of only about 56”.  
Do you have any ideas on how I can retrofit a Mustang 2 crossmember kit into my ‘65 Lincoln short of having to replace the frame with straight pieces to get rid of narrow the section? Would longer upper & lower control arms and a longer top hat be a good option for providing a wider track for a narrow crossmember?
Please Advise, Thanks!Gilbert

Dear Gilbert…
I think you should consider adding straight sections of plate steel to make the frame wider in the crossmember/upper tower area. This would be top, bottom and outside pieces to give an outside dimension of 35 – 36”. Then trim the stock frame inside the new pieces and add the fourth side. Now the crossmember can be mounted under and inside the frame and the towers can weld on top and outside. There are some pictures in the Mustang II section of our website showing frame pieces in stock frames. It is not an easy job.
The longer control arms would require a special rack and this could start a whole new set of things to adapt to.
Thanks for asking us about this.Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Thanks for the recommendation and quick response! You confirmed what I was dreading, the frame has to be modified. 
I apologize if this sounds ignorant but to exhaust the other option, could longer tie rods/ends (approximately 3” longer each side) be used on the steering rack to accommodate the longer control arms? Or would this throw off other steering parameters?
Appreciate the advice,Gilbert

Dear Welder Series… 1951 Merc Mustang II?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul
Building a 51 Merc do you have know which width will work best, also I don’t see it listed but do you have an already or mostly welded kit?

Dear Jeremy…
Jeremy, if your Mercury is a pickup (M1), use our F1 Mustang II kit or our 60-1/2” custom fit kit. You can also use our kits for coil-overs. If your Mercury is a passenger car, it will be necessary to modify the front frame section to install the Mustang II crossmember. Check the thumbnail pics on our website and read our instruction sheets while you look at your car’s frame.

Dear Welder Series… how much hp?

Dear Welder Series…
How much hp does your universal 4 link kit support? And can you estimate shipping to Saskatoon SK.

Dear Jesse…
A lot depends on the tires you are running and how you plan to beat on things. We build parts for street rods and feel they are top quality. A parallel rear 4-link kit does not give the same traction advantage that a race-type, non-parallel 4-link does. Freight from our door to yours is 10% of the order with a minimum charge of $15 and a maximum charge of $60.