Tag: motor mounts

Dear Welder Series… 4.7 Dodge engine mounts?

Dear Welder Series…

Hello,

I’m looking through your website looking for a way to mount a Dodge Dakota 4.7L into a Dodge 1500 chassis. I’m doing an engine/trans/body swap of a Dakota onto a 99 Dodge 1500 frame with a straight Dana 44 front axle. I figure I’d have to build or modify something. Any ideas?  

Thanks,

Kraig

Dear Kraig…

Hi, Kraig.

From pics on the internet, it looks like your engine has threaded bosses on the side of the block. We could make mounts similar to our LS mounts but with a plate that would bolt to the existing bosses on your engine. The center of the urethane bushing would be 3-3/8” off of the block boss surface.

This can be easy IF:
– The boss’ surfaces are all on the same plane. If they are not, shims could be used between the low one(s) and the main plate.
– Nothing else wants the same space as the mount. This could be exhaust or engine accessories or…

The tabs would be trimmed to fit and welded to the frame. 

We would need accurate hole spacing and thread size from you.  

Does this seem like a solution?  Thanks for asking us.

Paul Horton
info@welderseries.com

Dear Welder Series…
Yes, that is what I was thinking.

The engine is offset to the passenger side to allow space for the front drive shaft. So there is about 6 ½” between the block and frame on the passenger side and 9 ½” on the driver’s side.

There is a total of 8 threaded holes on each side of the block for mounts. There are 4 holes that are on the same plane (or close to it, might need a small shim) that will work for the new mounts.  

But I ordered parts to relocate the steering box and want to get that done before continuing with the motor mounts.

I’ll get back to you.

Dear Welder Series…
Paul,

I would like to get the motor mounts on order for the 4.7 liter Dodge engine.

  • The motor is offset in the engine bay. About 6.5” on the passenger side and 9.5” on the driver’s side to the inside of the frame. I want to be sure the brackets will reach.
  • The boss surfaces on the side of the block are all on the same plane. The 4.7 block has a raised area in it that will interfere with the plate, that I’ll have to notch out for at the bottom of the plate. Or put spacers at all 4 bolts so the plate is above the hump. Or a little of each. What do you think?
  • The mounting bolts are 10mm x 1.50 coarse thread. See attached drawing for plate size and hole pattern.
  • I saw how you cut around the bolt holes in the corners of your plate. I would prefer to have more meat around the holes, so a rectangle plate is preferred.

Let me know what the cost is and how to get this going.

Dear Kraig…
Hello, Kraig.

I have done CAD files for the two engine plates exactly like your drawings.  

The gusset and bushing for the LS mount locates the bushing center 3-3/8” off of the block boss surface and at 90 degrees to the boss surface.  The 20494 Versatabs have the hole center 5-1/2” from the frame edge.  This doesn’t add up to 9-1/2” but it might be worse or better depending on angles and bracket height.  The spacers you suggest might help with the distance issue as well as clear the hump.

Let me know what you think of the spacer idea or if we should consider a longer set of engine plate/gusset combination or a longer Versatab.

Thanks for the drawing.  It’s very clear what you want.

Paul

Dear Welder Series…
The 9.5” dimension was taken from the inside of the frame to the edge of the oil pan. The motor mount will be above that on the angled part of the block, which will put it closer to the frame rail. Plus the spacers will move it forward as well. I’ll look at it again tonight, but I’m willing to give it a try with your stock mounts and putting spacers between the bosses and plate at each bolt. Worst case, I’ll have to make a set of longer Versatabs, or shim them out from the frame with a piece of ¼” plate.

Dear Welder Series… 1952 Chevy pickup Mustang II kit?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi there. Just now found you guys on the web. I am garage building a 52 Chevy pickup. I’m interested in picking up your IFS set up and a good 4 link for the rear. I have the body of mine stripped off the chassis and am getting ready to send it to be blasted and have the chassis boxed. Can your IFS be bolted or welded in with the frame boxed or should I have your parts put in and then box it? Does your IFS kit come with the motor mounts as well or are they separate? I could also use a trans crossmember as well. I’m going with a 454cid and a 700R4.

Dear Zane…
Our Mustang II kit welds into a boxed frame, so you can go ahead with that. If you followed the instructions online, be aware that it will almost certainly be necessary to trim the top of the frame rail for upper arm cross shaft clearance. This can be done after boxing.

We have 2 types of motor mounts for your 454:

 

These would have to be trimmed to fit your frame (the way the boxing plates are installed will affect the frame width) and to put the engine at the height you want.

I’d suggest transmission crossmember 2115:

This adds strength to the frame and lets you drop the saddle without removing the exhaust.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Paul Horton

’32 Update: body bolts, motor mounted. (article 39)

 

I welded stainless washers to stainless allen head cap screws for the body mount bolts.

We thought for a while, drew our thoughts on the blackboard, and finally came up with a much simpler edition. Since the floor of the Bear Fiberglass body is so thick (almost 2″), and it is composed of two layers of fiberglass sandwiching a sort of foam material, it can be ‘squished’, for lack of a better word. Imagine standing on a pop can. Or you can stand on a soda can. Either way, unless you’re reading this blog from the comfort of the womb, you will probably collapse the walls of the can. Imagine now that you drop a steel tube inside, just shorter than the height of the can. The walls will collapse just a tiny bit, but then the strength of the tube will hold your weight. Probably.

Same idea here. We’re putting a tube spacer inside the floor so that when the bolts get tightened, they will cinch the body down but won’t be able to overtighten and crush the fiberglass.


This is one of the only pictures you’ll see of me working on the car… and it happens to be the easiest job other than cleaning.

Time to install the engine! Here, the transmission mount is swung (my computer didn’t put a red line under “swung”, so I guess it’s a word) out of the way, waiting for the transmission.

Great! Fits just like it did the first time!

Sneak Peek…