I’m looking through your website looking for a way to mount a Dodge Dakota 4.7L into a Dodge 1500 chassis. I’m doing an engine/trans/body swap of a Dakota onto a 99 Dodge 1500 frame with a straight Dana 44 front axle. I figure I’d have to build or modify something. Any ideas?
From pics on the internet, it looks like your engine has threaded bosses on the side of the block. We could make mounts similar to our LS mounts but with a plate that would bolt to the existing bosses on your engine. The center of the urethane bushing would be 3-3/8” off of the block boss surface.
This can be easy IF: – The boss’ surfaces are all on the same plane. If they are not, shims could be used between the low one(s) and the main plate. – Nothing else wants the same space as the mount. This could be exhaust or engine accessories or…
The tabs would be trimmed to fit and welded to the frame.
We would need accurate hole spacing and thread size from you.
Does this seem like a solution? Thanks for asking us.
Dear Welder Series…
Hi there. Just now found you guys on the web. I am garage building a 52 Chevy pickup. I’m interested in picking up your IFS set up and a good 4 link for the rear. I have the body of mine stripped off the chassis and am getting ready to send it to be blasted and have the chassis boxed. Can your IFS be bolted or welded in with the frame boxed or should I have your parts put in and then box it? Does your IFS kit come with the motor mounts as well or are they separate? I could also use a trans crossmember as well. I’m going with a 454cid and a 700R4.
Dear Zane… Our Mustang II kit welds into a boxed frame, so you can go ahead with that. If you followed the instructions online, be aware that it will almost certainly be necessary to trim the top of the frame rail for upper arm cross shaft clearance. This can be done after boxing.
We have 2 types of motor mounts for your 454:
These would have to be trimmed to fit your frame (the way the boxing plates are installed will affect the frame width) and to put the engine at the height you want.
I’d suggest transmission crossmember 2115:
This adds strength to the frame and lets you drop the saddle without removing the exhaust.
I welded stainless washers to stainless allen head cap screws for the body mount bolts.
We thought for a while, drew our thoughts on the blackboard, and finally came up with a much simpler edition. Since the floor of the Bear Fiberglass body is so thick (almost 2″), and it is composed of two layers of fiberglass sandwiching a sort of foam material, it can be ‘squished’, for lack of a better word. Imagine standing on a pop can. Or you can stand on a soda can. Either way, unless you’re reading this blog from the comfort of the womb, you will probably collapse the walls of the can. Imagine now that you drop a steel tube inside, just shorter than the height of the can. The walls will collapse just a tiny bit, but then the strength of the tube will hold your weight. Probably.
Same idea here. We’re putting a tube spacer inside the floor so that when the bolts get tightened, they will cinch the body down but won’t be able to overtighten and crush the fiberglass.
This is one of the only pictures you’ll see of me working on the car… and it happens to be the easiest job other than cleaning.
Time to install the engine! Here, the transmission mount is swung (my computer didn’t put a red line under “swung”, so I guess it’s a word) out of the way, waiting for the transmission.