Tag: Mustang II

Dear Welder Series… 1951 Chevy Mustang II?

Dear Welder Series…
I want to start purchasing the parts to the Mustang II kit, I have a 51 Chevy Coupe. I was looking at this:

I have a couple questions.

  1. What track width do I select for that car? I’m probably going to run stock steel wheels and 640 Bias Ply tires.

2. When I do purchase the upper spring hat, will it allow me use air bags??

Dear Drew…
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts, Drew. The 56″ track width is right for your Chev. The kit for stock-type springs will let you use air bags. The bag companies have a top hat looking adapter.

Dear Welder Series… 1935 Plymouth Mustang II?

Dear Welder Series…
hi–do you guys make  a mustang 2 kit for a 1935 plymouth coupe?? either weld-in or bolt-in?? thanks for your time–tom

Dear Tom…
Tom, our 56″ kits are the ones to use in your Plymouth.

 

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts for your build.

Dear Welder Series… Mustang II in a 1936 Chevy Pickup?

Dear Welder Series…
Can I make your Mustang II kit work on a 1936 Chevy pickup frame? Thanks.

Dear Mike…
Our 56″ kits would be the right size for your Chev pickup.

 

I hope we can help with your project.
Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… Mustang II in a 1970 F100?

Dear Welder Series…
Hey guys I have been doing a little resurch I have a 1970 f100 and I’m looking to do either a crown Vic or mustang 2 front end swap and a 4 link in the rear. Could you guys help me out a little is the mustang ii front crossmember just a weld up deal or little confused and live in Wyoming so not a whole lot of people to help me out haha

Dear Donavan…
Our MII kits are available in pieces so you can save money by welding it.

A video on our website shows this being done. The instructions show how to cut notches in the crossmember and upper towers so your frame will sit at the ride height you want.

I hope this helps. Please ask other questions that you might have.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… MII in an S10?

Dear Welder Series…
Paul, here’s the question. I’m in the process of putting a big block Chev in an s-10. Now you have to modify the cross member to install. And I was thinking would it be better to just put one of your units in. It will be cleaner I would be able to use Mustang II a-arms. Your set-up is already set-up for coil-over and mustang R&P. What unit would I use? Has any one else done this to an s-10 frame? Your knowledge is greatly needed and appreciated. Thanks in advance,
Art (oldschool racing).

Dear Art…
The easiest way is probably to make new frame rails from the firewall forward. It likely has been done (several times) but not by me. Actually, Hitman Hotrods installed one locally in a heavily modified S10:

Get the wheels and tires you want to use and mock them in the fender to check stance and track width.

Parts  for 1974 – 78 Mustang II are what you look for. The aftermarket has lots of tubular  and other repop stuff. The 1979 – 92 Mustang rack can be used if you want a power rack.

Thanks for asking. This should be a slick project.

Paul Horton

Mustang II Installed Pics: 1952 Chevy Pickup

As Steve was installing his Welder Series coil over Mustang II crossmember, he snapped some pictures (do you still snap pictures with a digital camera?) and sent them to be added to our monthly photo sharing draw. I know he’s bought a triangulated four link for the same truck… I can’t wait to see those install pictures too! That’s great, thanks very much for using our parts, Steve.

Depending on your ride height, notching the top part of your frame rails might be necessary. The instruction sheets included in the kit will show you how to determine whether you’ll have to trim your frame or not.

Steve used a Mustang II 56″ track width for his ’52.

Send your installed pics to pictures@welderseries.com. We’ll enter you in a monthly draw to win a $50 credit on your account here.

Dear Welder Series… Mustang II for 1947 Chevy 3800?

Dear Welder Series…
I am looking for a mustang 2 front crossmember that I can weld my self. I see you have one for a model A but I need one for a 47 Chevy 3800. Is it the same one or do you offer a different one for different vehicles?
Thanks,
Derek

Dear Derek…
The 3800 truck is the 1 ton version, as I’m sure you know. I believe, but don’t know for sure, that the frame is the same width as the 1/2 ton truck. If this is true, the 56″ kits are the right width. Check out the links below for assembly and installation info.

For mustang II crossmember kit (WS14340)

For mustang II coil-over crossmember kit (WS21906)

The videos will help you see what is involved in putting the kit in your frame.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… Mustang II: installed frame height?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi I’m building a custom frame I want to run a Mustang ll I like how you sell them and I plan on buying one from you  my question is if running air springs and a 24 inch diameter wheel how high should the frame rails be from the ground and with 6 inches of ground clearance I want the rockers of the car to sit on the ground, like I said its custom so the frame rails can be placed anywhere. Also do you have a laser cutter or are you farming out your cuts, the reason I’m asking I have some custom shaped frame rail ideas and I like the idea of cutting and welding the shapes I want, would custom cuts be something you would be interested in doing for me?  Thanks for any help  and could I bother you for a catalog? I can’t see any of your products on the web site the pics are black or digital mess ..

Tom

Dear Tom…
Tom, the frame height should be mocked up once you have the wheels and tires you will use. Then our install sheets walk you through how to cut the crossmember and upper towers so the frame will be where you want it with weight on the tires.

We work with a local laser cutter who understands what we are looking for in street rod products. We do custom work regularly and would be happy to quote on your drawings or sketches.

We’re working on the web store images… sorry for the inconvenience.

Dear Welder Series… MII & rear four link dimension questions…

Dear Welder Series…
Hi there

I’m working on figuring out ride height and road clearance for my 51 Chevy if I use your MII set up and have a few questions, hoping you can assist.

1. For your MII front crossmember,  what is the distance from the underside of the chevy frame to the bottom of the crossmember and what should a reasonable /safe clearance below the crossmember to the road be?

2. What is the distance from the spindle centerline to the underside of the crossmember. (assuming 2” drop spindle)

I am trying to determine from this what size wheel/tire size should be.

3. For the rear suspension, triangulated 4 link kit or individual pieces, can you please clarify the dimensions of your bars so I can figure out where they will attach to my frame?.

Your drawing indicates the lower bar should be 27-1/8 from the axle centerline but you list a 27-7/8 bar and then 23-1/8 bar and nothing in between.

Are dimensions nominally center to center on the bushings?  Or center of bushing to edge of notch?

4. The upper bar should attach about 15 from the axle centerline according to your drawing so I want to see where that would end up mounting on the axle.

Can you clarify roughly what angle in plan view the upper bars are relative to the axle or roughly what length the upper bars are so I can figure out where they will sit and if that is similar to your drawing showing the bars 2-1/8 above the axle centerline?

Thanks very much for your assistance.!!

Steve

Dear Steve…
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts for your project, Steve.

I suggest you choose the tire size that you feel is best for your project, rather than work from ground clearance up.  Our crossmember can be notched to accommodate the ride height you want with the tire size you choose.

I’m going to duck the ground clearance question… This depends on the roads you travel as well as possible laws in your area.  NSRA has a practical suggestion with their scrub line definition.  This is defined at http://www.dmv.state.pa.us/pdotforms/pub_45/appendix.pdf .  Some areas say the line should be drawn from wheel rim to wheel rim and no suspension component should below that line.

With a 2″ dropped spindle, it is 7-1/4″ from spindle c/l to the bottom of our crossmember.

The dimensions on the triangulated rear 4-link installation sheets are correct.  The assumption is that you know where the axle centerline is but don’t know where our axle bracket locates the urethane bushing.  The bar length is from the center of the urethane bushing tube to the threaded end of the bar.  The adjuster is not included in this length.  Add 1-3/4″ for the large bushing adjuster.  Note that the lower bar for the triangulated kit is the 23-1/8″ bar.  (The 27-7/8″ bar is 7/8″ diameter and is used in our universal rear Panhard kit and the hiboy front 4-link kit.)

The frame brackets for the upper bars will likely have to be trimmed to the angle suited to your frame width and rear axle.

Thanks for these questions.  I hope this info, and the install sheets online help you.

Dear Welder Series… Mustang II crossmember dimensions?

Dear Welder Series…
Interested in your mustang II crossmember with coil overs.  How much does the crossmember weigh and how wide is it outside to outside at the lower control arm mount?  Thanks.  Steve.

Dear Steve…
The 56″ crossmember kit (shown below) with the upper arm brackets and coil-over mounts weighs 32 lbs.

The two crossmember pieces and the plates that run from the top of the crossmember to the inside of the frame weigh 19 lbs.

The lower control arm holes are on 22-1/4″ centers.  If the center line is extended each way, the crossmember dimension is 25-5/16″.

I hope this helps.