Dear Welder Series…
I am interested in your Mustang II cross-member. I have a 1954 Ford F100 with MII, but the frame is pretty butchered so I plan on building a new frame. My question is what is the spacing on the lower control arm holes on the three different width cross-members? Thanks in advance.
Dear Kevin…
Kevin, the lower holes on the 56″ crossmember are on 22-1/4″ centers. They are 24-1/4″ on the 58″ crossmember and 26-1/4″ on the 60″.
Dear Welder Series…
Hello, I’m looking to purchase your triangulated 4 link for my 52 Pontiac. I will need to install the coilovers in front of the axle, do you have a axle mount to accomplish this?
Thanks.
Dear Joe…
Joe, if there is room, you could us the coil-over bracket shown below, mounted on the front side of the axle.
Let me know if you feel this will, or won’t, work in your application.
Dear Welder Series…
Hey guys I have been doing a little resurch I have a 1970 f100 and I’m looking to do either a crown Vic or mustang 2 front end swap and a 4 link in the rear. Could you guys help me out a little is the mustang ii front crossmember just a weld up deal or little confused and live in Wyoming so not a whole lot of people to help me out haha
Dear Donavan…
Our MII kits are available in pieces so you can save money by welding it.
A video on our website shows this being done. The instructions show how to cut notches in the crossmember and upper towers so your frame will sit at the ride height you want.
I hope this helps. Please ask other questions that you might have.
Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul I am in the middle of installing one of your triangulated four links. How much angle do I need on the upper part? (angle from frame rail to rear housing if looking from top). If I have to shorten the upper bars what would you suggest the min. length be? Thanks
Dear Derek…
Derek, the upper bar frame bracket is designed to mount the bar at 27 degrees off of the frame. It might be hard to reduce this angle very much and still put a wrench on the nut, if the nut will even go on. Another option might be to mount the axle end of the upper bars just inside the frame rails and angle them towards the frame centerline. Then add a new crossmember and mount the frame brackets to it. This way the bars can stay at their original length. As the bars get shorter, the pinion angle changes more dramatically as the suspension works.
Dear Welder Series…
I am looking for help with my 1953 Ford build.
I have purchased a 1993 LS1 motor, a 700 trans and a 12 bolt rear end I am trying to fit in the truck. The wheels I will be running are 30″ on the outside, 10 3/4″ wide with a 6 7/8 offset from the back of the rim. My goal is to set the bumpers and running boards on the ground with a full air ride. Is there a chance you could specify what I will need to purchase from your catalog to get all my frame welding going? As it stands right know I have pulled all the suspension out of the truck and it is just sitting on the frame now. Would love to order everything for Christmas. Thank you for your time and please feel free to call with any other questions you might have.
Keith
Dear Keith…
Keith, here are some links to kits for this build:
Choose a 60″ track width kit for your F100.
If you will use conventional air springs:
If you plan to use ShockWaves:
If you will use a power rack from a 79-92 T-Bird, order the relocation kit:
There are several different LS engine mount kits. They are shown at
For your 700 R4 transmission, here are 2 options:
A simple crosmember and drop-out saddle (check out the “welded” version):
Or a tubular center section (with the 700R4 trans mount option):
For either of the above, use transmission mount insulator
If your 12 bolt rear end has the ears for the triangulated GM links, you could use our rear kit:
We would add brackets if you will use conventional air springs.
The crossmember shown below can be used to mount the upper end of the ShockWave (with 5/8″ hardware), or shocks with 7/16″ upper eyes.
If you plan to use a parallel rear 4-link, here are the kit pages:
For ShockWaves:
Use the rear crossmember with 5/8″ bolts.
With shockWaves on either the triangulated or the parallel kit, use the bolt kit here:
I hope this list helps. Please write or call on our toll-free line, 1-888-648-2150, if you want more details.
Dear Welder Series…
I was looking at your universal step notch kit and had some questions before purchase..
Does your universal notch kit fit or has ever been installed on a 1951 Buick Super?
When installing, does the longer side piece go on the inside or outside of the frame? In your pictures I see it on occasions on the inside and on others on the outside. Or maybe on the part of the frame that is boxed?
Is this notch kit the standard size for “most” notch kits or do other widths and lengths exist? Ex. The top of the step span 8 1/2″ or will others span more?
Dear Gabriel…
Gabriel, I don’t know of an installation in a Buick like yours, but this step notch kit (shown below) has been installed in many frames that are similar. i.e. Full frame, larger vehicles.
The longer piece does go on the inside to, in effect, box the inside of the frame.
We do just make this one size.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts and for these questions.
Dear Welder Series…
I have your Sept. 2011 catalog and I am going to order a rear 4-bar; but I have a question on the 1-3/8 wide urethane bushings. Are these bushings 1-3/8″ in between the brackets?
Dear James…
James, the dimension (1-3/8″ or 1-3/4″) is between the sides of the brackets. You might want to check our web store for current details on the rear 4-link kits shown here:
.
The 1-3/8″ and the 1-3/4″ bushing kits are now the same price. (The 1-3/4″ kits have become much more popular and the 1-3/8″ kits have become less popular. We are making so many more 1-3/4″ than 1-3/8″ that the prices have evened out.) The 1-3/8″ kits are only available as welded kits. The 1-3/4″ kits are available welded or ready-to-weld.
I hope this helps with your ordering decision. Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
PRESS RELEASE
Tim Strange Announces Season 2 Episode 3 of Search and Restore
Franklin TN, November 14, 2012: The focus of Search and Restore is on finding the family treasures and lost causes, ringing them all back to life. From coast to coast, host Tim Strange, and volunteer teams of pros will donate their time restoring rides nationwide to those worthy of a helping hand. Search & Restore is not just a show for automotive enthusiasts, but a great show that dad can watch with his family – there is a story and best of all NO DRAMA.
Tim Strange, award-winning rod builder, BMXer and owner of Strange Motion is the host and Lead Builder of Search and Restore. “The show is a feel-good, give back type of show,” said Strange. “We build projects for deserving people with touching or hard-luck stories. Each project we build gets four half-hour shows. We build four projects each season so there will be 16 episodes.” “There’s no better feeling than helping someone regain that sense of hope after they feel like they’ve lost everything,” Strange said. “Thanks to our volunteer build teams and the hosts of the other PowerBlock shows, we’re able to help someone pick up the pieces, turn a dream into a reality and have fun doing it.”
November 17, 2012 @ 8 AM CST SPIKE TV will run the third build of season two of Search and Restore. It will run as a two hour special, you will see the beginning and end of the build. On Sunday November 18, 2012 @ 8 AM SPIKE TV will do a rerun of Saturday’s show. The third build of the season, we travel just outside Detroit, Michigan to rescue a dream, grant a
daughter’s wish, and to restore some pride in a PowerBlock viewer who spends these days managing his pain, and taking care of his elderly parents.
After receiving nearly 200,000 submissions from viewers, Search and Restore is PowerBlock’s answer to ignite hope back into the lives of those in need of a helping hand. Search and Restore is not a “How to” show, like the other PowerBlock shows.
Dear Welder Series…
Can you list the “Welder Series” parts I would require to install a brake and clutch pedal assembly in a 34 Ford truck cab. I would like a hanging pedal for both brake and clutch. I saw how one or customers converted a brake master bracket to hang. This is what I think I need. Do you have these as a kit yet or can you provide a drawing for the set up?
Many thanks.
Dear Brock…
Brock, we don’t have a kit number for this set-up, or a drawing but here are the products:
1x (below)
2x (below)
2x (below)
2x (below)
2x (below)
4x (below)
You might need 2 plungers, depending on the master cylinders used.
2x (below)
Bolts, nuts, and washers will be needed to attach the pedals to the bracket. We have these in stock and can supply them once we know what you will be using. We can take a picture that will explain how this would go together. It would be a good idea to connect the bracket to the dash for extra support.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts for your project.
We were contacted today regarding a post on the ETE Reman blog to do with Ford automatic transmissions. While Ford transmissions aren’t nearly as popular as GM offerings, this is great info! There is also information regarding GM and Chrysler auto transmissions as well.
We’ve never done business with this company, so please don’t take this as an endorsement. You get a pretty good impression of a business when they’re willing to spend time to educate the public though.
Dear Welder Series…
Hello, I am looking at your triangulated 4 link kits and I am going to put a 4 link in my Nova. My question is will your kits work in my 72 Nova that has been mini tubbed? If so which kit do I need? Thank you very much for your help and I look forward to hearing back from you.
Thanks,
Tim
Dear Tim…
Tim, our triangulated rear kit (shown below) has been used in lots of different applications. We put the instruction sheets on the website so you can check the dimensions against your frame and possible interference items.
I hope this helps… Let me know if you have other questions after looking at the drawings.
Dear Welder Series…
Dear sirs, I have used your products in the past and have asked for advise from time to time and am thankfull for your frank advise. Does Welder Series offer a floor support for a 1 1/2″ steering column tube?
Dear Brock…
Sorry, Brock, we don’t have a floor column support. You have got my brain going, though.
Thanks for using Welder Series parts in your project.
Dear Welder Series…
Please tell me the difference between the welded and non-welded model A ifs kit. Is the welded kit ready to be welded to my frame? Thanks, Robert
Dear Robert…
Yes, Robert, the welded kit is ready to weld to your frame. Classic Rods & More has a good video of the installation at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zdi0B4fr5Sk. The fender braces have to be reworked but the fenders do not have to be “bubbled”.
The “non-welded” kit includes all of the components used in the crossmember and upper towers, but does not have any welding done when you receive it.
Rad mounts are included with the kit. These are to be welded to a boxed section of frame rail.
Dear Welder Series…
I presently have a car that uses Armstrong front shocks and I want to replace the front suspension with your Mustang II Crossmember Kit. The problem is the frame is tubular and very narrow. The front tread is 45 1/2 inch. Can your kit be made to work? Thanks Frank
Dear Frank…
Frank, Maval Mfg can make a Mustang II rack up to 9″ narrower than stock. This would get the track width down to 47-1/2″ with stock (length) upper and lower arms and stock, 4-bolt rotors. Aftermarket brake kits often move the wheel mounting face of the rotors outboard or inboard, changing the track width. Shorter upper and lower arms will narrow the track width. I’ve heard that there are arms 1″ shorter than stock. This would get you in the 45-1/2″ range by cutting a portion out of the middle of our crossmember (shown below).
Dear Welder Series…
I’m building a 1956 F100. Supercharged 5.4 with 4r100 trans. I have purchased your engine mounts, but I’m looking for a tranny mount that will work with the 4r100
Thanks
Andy
Dear Andy…
Andy, have a look at our 2115 transmission mount and crossmember (below):
and the 205041 Ford adapter plate (below):
which use the insulator/rubber mount (below):
205041 has recently been modified (new #205042) so it will work with transmissions that have rubber mount hole centers from 5-5/16″ to 5-9/16″. All of this has to be filtered by you knowing that I am not at all familiar with this transmission, except by looking online.
Thanks for looking to Welder Series on this problem.