Dear Welder Series…
I’m building a 1930 Model A on boxed ’30 frame. I want to use your flat crossmember in order to use a 1936 wishbone with the spring forward of the axle.

I want to know if I can place your flat crossmember in front of the stock cross member in order that I may keep the original design, i.e. radiator and fenders etc…??

Has anyone done this before??

I want the car as low as possible and the use of the intact ’36 wishbone. I intend on using cross rack steering and need the clearance as well.

Thanks,
Mike

Dear Mike…
Thanks for looking at Welder Series’ parts.

Our flat front crossmember is designed for a 1-3/4″ wide spring, like the 1928-34 Ford. The ’36 Ford used a 2″ wide front spring, so it will not fit in our crossmember. The ’36 spring is longer than the Model ‘A’ spring, so it can’t be adapted to the ’36 stock wishbone, either.

The ’36 axle will be a little wide to let you get the front end low. (The tires will be out at the edge of the fenders.) You might want to mock up your parts to see how it looks before buying any parts. The standard way to get a Model ‘A’ low is to use a 46″ dropped axle with a reversed eye spring with a low arch.

I hope this helps.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Thanks Paul…….I already have the 31″ 1 3/4 reverse eye spring with a 6″ arc, now I need the 46″ axle.  I wanted to use the 1936 wishbone unsplit but I guess I will have to split it after all.

Thanks again,
Mike

Dear Mike…
Mike, you might be able to use the wishbone unsplit and just cut off the spring perch extensions. The spring would mount above the axle.

Paul

Dear Welder Series…
YES, that’s what I intend on doing I just have to find the widest perch possible on the “I” beam.  The wishbone is 39.5″ apart and the “I” beam I have is 36″ and I have a feeling that the 46″ axle will also have around 36″ between bosses.  Maybe I can bend the wishbone to match the bosses when I get the 46″ axle.
Worse scenario is splitting the wishbone…………..

Since I have you online, do you guys sell “X” crossmember for the model A frame?  I need something for my 4L60 transmission to bolt onto.  I’m running a 283 cu. in. motor as well and will also need the motor mounts to weld to the frame and attach to the motor, side mounts.

I have a 1930 model A frame that is completely stepped up and boxed.  I have a center cross member but I would like to reinforce the frame a little more and have the setup to bolt on the brake pedal, etc..

Thanks again,
Mike

Dear Mike…
Mike, most 46″ axle perch centers are about 34-1/2″. You should be able to bring the wishbone in to match the 46″ axle perches. Make sure the ball stays in the center.

We don’t have a Model ‘A’ x-member. Check Dagel’s https://dagels.com/super-x-crossmember-kit/. Welder Series does have Chev motor mounts.

+3

Universal Engine Mount Kit, Small or Big Block Chev, PR

C005

C$75.00

Supports the engine on the frame mount, not a thru-bolt.

In stock

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Product Details

Brand: Welder Series

Model: Chevy engine mount

MPN: C005

Country/Region of Manufacture: Canada

Thickness: 3/16"

Small/ big block Chevy motor mounts to use stock-type GM rubber or polyurethane insulators. Laser cut from 3/16" pickled & oiled mild steel. Easy to fit to almost any frame.

Stock, non-interlocking GM insulators (side mounts) are used with this kit to absorb motor vibrations. The C005 motor mount is designed to use “short & wide type” GM insulators. These insulators have an inside width, between the ears, of 2-5/8″. There is also a “tall & narrow type” insulator that is 2-3/8″ between the ears. This insulator will not fit the C005 mount. We also offer a polyurethane insulator from Energy Suspension. On personal builds, I'll only use the urethane mounts - they help prevent the vehicle from "jiggling" at idle and from torquing off a light. They feel much more secure than the rubber mounts. We believe they're worth the price difference.

The insulator rests on the pad surface, just the way GM designed them. Formed ears eliminate the common tube and long bolt support, which rests the whole weight of the engine on the bolt. A laser cut slit in the main plate allows the mount to be formed easily and positioned at the height you require. The oversized gusset gets trimmed to provide support. Clear instructions show how to use this kit to put a Chev motor in frames from T-buckets to Ford F100’s (or any other frame 22″ – 31″ between the boxing plates). 7” from the laser cut slit to the opposite edge.

Kit includes 2 engine brackets, 2 gussets, and necessary hardware.

Assembly/ installation instructions
Paul Horton’s motor mounting tech tips.

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Display prices in: CAD

Our Model ‘A’ manual brake pedal is at:

I hope we can help with your project.

Paul Horton