Dear Welder Series…
I’m building a 1930 Model A on boxed ’30 frame. I want to use your flat crossmember in order to use a 1936 wishbone with the spring forward of the axle.
I want to know if I can place your flat crossmember in front of the stock cross member in order that I may keep the original design, i.e. radiator and fenders etc…??
Has anyone done this before??
I want the car as low as possible and the use of the intact ’36 wishbone. I intend on using cross rack steering and need the clearance as well.
Thanks,
Mike
Dear Mike…
Thanks for looking at Welder Series’ parts.
Our flat front crossmember is designed for a 1-3/4″ wide spring, like the 1928-34 Ford. The ’36 Ford used a 2″ wide front spring, so it will not fit in our crossmember. The ’36 spring is longer than the Model ‘A’ spring, so it can’t be adapted to the ’36 stock wishbone, either.
The ’36 axle will be a little wide to let you get the front end low. (The tires will be out at the edge of the fenders.) You might want to mock up your parts to see how it looks before buying any parts. The standard way to get a Model ‘A’ low is to use a 46″ dropped axle with a reversed eye spring with a low arch.
I hope this helps.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Thanks Paul…….I already have the 31″ 1 3/4 reverse eye spring with a 6″ arc, now I need the 46″ axle. I wanted to use the 1936 wishbone unsplit but I guess I will have to split it after all.
Thanks again,
Mike
Dear Mike…
Mike, you might be able to use the wishbone unsplit and just cut off the spring perch extensions. The spring would mount above the axle.
Paul
Dear Welder Series…
YES, that’s what I intend on doing I just have to find the widest perch possible on the “I” beam. The wishbone is 39.5″ apart and the “I” beam I have is 36″ and I have a feeling that the 46″ axle will also have around 36″ between bosses. Maybe I can bend the wishbone to match the bosses when I get the 46″ axle.
Worse scenario is splitting the wishbone…………..
Since I have you online, do you guys sell “X” crossmember for the model A frame? I need something for my 4L60 transmission to bolt onto. I’m running a 283 cu. in. motor as well and will also need the motor mounts to weld to the frame and attach to the motor, side mounts.
I have a 1930 model A frame that is completely stepped up and boxed. I have a center cross member but I would like to reinforce the frame a little more and have the setup to bolt on the brake pedal, etc..
Thanks again,
Mike
Dear Mike…
Mike, most 46″ axle perch centers are about 34-1/2″. You should be able to bring the wishbone in to match the 46″ axle perches. Make sure the ball stays in the center.
We don’t have a Model ‘A’ x-member. Check Dagel’s https://dagels.com/super-x-crossmember-kit/. Welder Series does have Chev motor mounts.
Buy 10 of one part number, get 10% off.
Buy 40+ to get them for 40% off! Sorry, no additional discounts applicable.
NEW: A double hanger designed as a side mount, with a built-in gusset that gets folded by hand and welded. #213463
Frame brackets for mounting your exhaust, in one and two hole configurations, are cut from 10 ga mild steel.
Stainless hangers are 316 2B (316 contains 16% chromium, 10% nickel and 2% molybdenum. The "moly" is added to help resist corrosion to chlorides (like sea water and de-icing salts)).
Exhaust bracket holes are 11/16″ for use with our grommets. Frame bracket holes are 3/8″.
21348: 10ga mild steel, 3/8″ diameter hole is 2-3/4″ from the top edge.
21346: 10ga mild steel, two 3/8″ diameter holes are 2-3/4″ from top edge and are on 1-1/2″ centers.
213463: 10ga mild steel, two 3/8″ diameter holes, 4” from furthest hole to edge.
21347: 316 2B stainless steel, with an 11/16″ diameter hole (for #GR121 grommet) 2-1/2″ from the top of a 2-1/2″ diameter exhaust tube.
213473: Identical to 21347 but for a 3″ exhaust tube.
21347M: Identical to #21347 but cut from 10ga mild steel.
21345: 316 2B stainless steel, two 11/16″ holes (for #GR121 grommet) are on 1-1/2″ centers.
21345M: Identical to #21345 but cut from 10ga mild steel.
We highly recommend a flex pipe between your headers and the first hanger location. This will greatly reduce the stress on the hanger.
See related parts for a hardware kit. A threaded bung can also be used to mount the exhaust hanger to your frame.
Our Model ‘A’ manual brake pedal is at:
I hope we can help with your project.
Paul Horton