Dear Welder Series…
I’m building a 1930 Model A on boxed ’30 frame. I want to use your flat crossmember in order to use a 1936 wishbone with the spring forward of the axle.

I want to know if I can place your flat crossmember in front of the stock cross member in order that I may keep the original design, i.e. radiator and fenders etc…??

Has anyone done this before??

I want the car as low as possible and the use of the intact ’36 wishbone. I intend on using cross rack steering and need the clearance as well.

Thanks,
Mike

Dear Mike…
Thanks for looking at Welder Series’ parts.

Our flat front crossmember is designed for a 1-3/4″ wide spring, like the 1928-34 Ford. The ’36 Ford used a 2″ wide front spring, so it will not fit in our crossmember. The ’36 spring is longer than the Model ‘A’ spring, so it can’t be adapted to the ’36 stock wishbone, either.

The ’36 axle will be a little wide to let you get the front end low. (The tires will be out at the edge of the fenders.) You might want to mock up your parts to see how it looks before buying any parts. The standard way to get a Model ‘A’ low is to use a 46″ dropped axle with a reversed eye spring with a low arch.

I hope this helps.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Thanks Paul…….I already have the 31″ 1 3/4 reverse eye spring with a 6″ arc, now I need the 46″ axle.  I wanted to use the 1936 wishbone unsplit but I guess I will have to split it after all.

Thanks again,
Mike

Dear Mike…
Mike, you might be able to use the wishbone unsplit and just cut off the spring perch extensions. The spring would mount above the axle.

Paul

Dear Welder Series…
YES, that’s what I intend on doing I just have to find the widest perch possible on the “I” beam.  The wishbone is 39.5″ apart and the “I” beam I have is 36″ and I have a feeling that the 46″ axle will also have around 36″ between bosses.  Maybe I can bend the wishbone to match the bosses when I get the 46″ axle.
Worse scenario is splitting the wishbone…………..

Since I have you online, do you guys sell “X” crossmember for the model A frame?  I need something for my 4L60 transmission to bolt onto.  I’m running a 283 cu. in. motor as well and will also need the motor mounts to weld to the frame and attach to the motor, side mounts.

I have a 1930 model A frame that is completely stepped up and boxed.  I have a center cross member but I would like to reinforce the frame a little more and have the setup to bolt on the brake pedal, etc..

Thanks again,
Mike

Dear Mike…
Mike, most 46″ axle perch centers are about 34-1/2″. You should be able to bring the wishbone in to match the 46″ axle perches. Make sure the ball stays in the center.

We don’t have a Model ‘A’ x-member. Check Dagel’s https://dagels.com/super-x-crossmember-kit/. Welder Series does have Chev motor mounts.

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Frame Curves

WS24132H

C$49.50

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Product Details

Brand: Welder Series

MPN: WS241xxx

Country/Region of Manufacture: Canada

Thickness: 3/16"

A unique and inexpensive alternative to thin-wall mandrel bent frame sections. Available for 2x3, 2x4, 2x5, 2x6, 3x3 and 3x4 tubing. Laser cut from 3/16" pickled & oiled mild steel. 4' lengths of HS tube are also available in the "You May Also Like..." section below.

Designed for rear kickups, center sections, frames, etc… perfect for builders looking for a smooth bend that doesn’t require special machinery. They are shipped in four pieces as shown. Because they’re made from 3/16″ (!) steel, when you grind the weld it will match up with the corner radius on hollow structural tubing.

There are no kinks or stretching normally associated with mandrel bent rectangular tubing, especially being bent the “hard way”. Reference tabs let you clamp the pieces corner to corner while they’re welded. There are scribe lines on the top and bottom plates at 30 degrees, 45 degrees, and 60 degrees so they’re easy to cut and replicate side to side.

The frame curves all have an inside radius of 4″. Therefore the outside radius is 4″ plus the size of the “tubing” that the curve produces. Here’s a list of the outside radius for each frame curve:

3×2 vertical: 7″
3×2 horizontal: 6″
3×3 horizontal or vertical (both are the same curve): 7″
3×4 vertical: 8″
4×2 vertical: 8″
4×2 horizontal: 6″
5×2 vertical: 9″
6×2 vertical: 10″
6×2 horizontal: 6″
Vertical curves are also called bent the hard way and horizontal curves are called bent the easy way.

A “horizontal” bend refers to one that is bent side-to-side, to go around the rear differential for example.
A “vertical” bend refers to one that is bent up or down, to kick the frame rails over the rear axle, for example.

Shipping Information: Shipping charge is 10% of the order total; minimum $15, maximum $60. Ships via UPS to the lower 48 States and 10 Provinces. No duty or brokerage charges. No surprises. Tracking information will be emailed.

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Our Model ‘A’ manual brake pedal is at:

I hope we can help with your project.

Paul Horton