Dear Welder Series…
I’m building a 1930 Model A on boxed ’30 frame. I want to use your flat crossmember in order to use a 1936 wishbone with the spring forward of the axle.
I want to know if I can place your flat crossmember in front of the stock cross member in order that I may keep the original design, i.e. radiator and fenders etc…??
Has anyone done this before??
I want the car as low as possible and the use of the intact ’36 wishbone. I intend on using cross rack steering and need the clearance as well.
Thanks,
Mike
Dear Mike…
Thanks for looking at Welder Series’ parts.
Our flat front crossmember is designed for a 1-3/4″ wide spring, like the 1928-34 Ford. The ’36 Ford used a 2″ wide front spring, so it will not fit in our crossmember. The ’36 spring is longer than the Model ‘A’ spring, so it can’t be adapted to the ’36 stock wishbone, either.
The ’36 axle will be a little wide to let you get the front end low. (The tires will be out at the edge of the fenders.) You might want to mock up your parts to see how it looks before buying any parts. The standard way to get a Model ‘A’ low is to use a 46″ dropped axle with a reversed eye spring with a low arch.
I hope this helps.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Thanks Paul…….I already have the 31″ 1 3/4 reverse eye spring with a 6″ arc, now I need the 46″ axle. I wanted to use the 1936 wishbone unsplit but I guess I will have to split it after all.
Thanks again,
Mike
Dear Mike…
Mike, you might be able to use the wishbone unsplit and just cut off the spring perch extensions. The spring would mount above the axle.
Paul
Dear Welder Series…
YES, that’s what I intend on doing I just have to find the widest perch possible on the “I” beam. The wishbone is 39.5″ apart and the “I” beam I have is 36″ and I have a feeling that the 46″ axle will also have around 36″ between bosses. Maybe I can bend the wishbone to match the bosses when I get the 46″ axle.
Worse scenario is splitting the wishbone…………..
Since I have you online, do you guys sell “X” crossmember for the model A frame? I need something for my 4L60 transmission to bolt onto. I’m running a 283 cu. in. motor as well and will also need the motor mounts to weld to the frame and attach to the motor, side mounts.
I have a 1930 model A frame that is completely stepped up and boxed. I have a center cross member but I would like to reinforce the frame a little more and have the setup to bolt on the brake pedal, etc..
Thanks again,
Mike
Dear Mike…
Mike, most 46″ axle perch centers are about 34-1/2″. You should be able to bring the wishbone in to match the 46″ axle perches. Make sure the ball stays in the center.
We don’t have a Model ‘A’ x-member. Check Dagel’s https://dagels.com/super-x-crossmember-kit/. Welder Series does have Chev motor mounts.
High quality and low cost is achieved by using this Mustang II crossmember and upper tower kit. Set up the front end at the ride height you want! Detailed installation instructions are also online by clicking the link below. Either manual or power steering can be used- the passenger side mount has a slot to take the later model power rack. As with all Mustang II aftermarket crossmembers, spacers must be used with the later (Fox-body) power rack. These spacers are available in the Related Parts list at the bottom of this description. Use stock control arms or aftermarket upper and lowers with this kit. Lower control arm mounting tubes and gussets are not included but available separately.
Welder Series has a free service to help builders lay out the crossmember and upper tower cut lines. Click here for the work sheet. If you fill them out, take pictures of them, and email the pages back to us, we will give you drawings showing the sections to be removed. These worksheets can also give us the info we need to provide you with boxing plates. We’d give you a price for the plates and you can decide if you want to order them or make your own.
Please scroll to the bottom of the description to see related items like a lower A arm mounting kit, rack spacer kit, C notches, shock mount plates and caliper brackets.
Most vehicles will use the standard 56-1/2” track width. 1942-52 Ford pickups should use the 58-1/2” kit. Ford F100 (’53-’56) and 2nd series ’54-’59 Chev pickups should use the 60-1/2” kit. If you specify a welded kit, the corner-to-corner welds are neat but not ground.
All kits are now shipped as two CNC formed 90 degree sections. What appears as lines on the rack mounts are actually laser-cut slits in the plate. These slits make it easy to form the piece by using an adjustable wrench to get a better grip on a small tab. Rack mounts are incorporated into the crossmember design and rotate the rack back 20° to get the input shaft lower. Stock, manual or power racks or later model Mustang II or T-Bird power racks can be used. The later power rack will require the Power Rack Spacer and longer bolts, as described in the power rack mount spacer section. The rack is positioned so the bellows will clear most aftermarket full A-Arms (such as Heidt’s, Total Cost Involved, Fatman, etc).
Stylish, cone-shaped stamped upper shock mounts also function as the coil spring locator. The upper towers have anti-dive built in. The holes for the lower control arms are 5/8". Installation instructions show how to set up the front end at the ride height you want. Rack extenders or Fairmont tie rod ends must be used on 58-1/2″, 60-1/2", and 62-1/2″ kits. Crossmember & upper towers are made from 3/16″ mild steel. The track width is measured at the rotor wheel mounting surface. The width will vary, depending on the brake kit used. Please note: lower control arm pivot tubes and gussets are not included.
Track width is the rotor wheel mounting surface to surface dimension. Welder Series makes 3 widths: stock (56-1/2″), and 2″, 4". and 6" wider (58-1/2″, 60-1/2", & 62-1/2″). These are nominal dimensions. The final track width is dependent on the control arms, wheels, and brake system used. An easy way to estimate the stock track width is to measure tire tread center to center.
The outside frame width is less critical than track width, but is a consideration. Our 56-1/2″ kit likes a frame o.d. of 26″ – 30″. The 58-1/2″ kit likes 28 – 32″. The 60-1/2″ kit likes 30 – 34″. The 62-1/2" kit likes 32 - 36". If the frame doesn’t correspond to these dimensions, there are work-arounds that we can suggest.
Do you need to cut your coil springs? Here's a helpful video from Eaton Detroit Spring: https://youtu.be/RNOmTsmABIc. Remember; as you cut the coil, the spring rate goes up (stiffer ride). Eaton Detroit also has short springs for Mustang II applications.
For assembly and installation instructions, click here.
Click to see our “Mustang II Installed Pics” blog category.
Click here for a list of Mustang II boxing plates currently available for several popular vehicles.
For a list of additional components (not supplied by Welder Series) for your front end, click here.
Click here to see our constantly updating Mustang II application chart.
Click here to see the current list of cut line drawings. We may have one for your car.
Click here to watch the Trucks!TV Mustang II install on Powerblock.
Click here for the PDF version of the magazine install.
Check out an assembly/install article from Rod & Custom Magazine.
Shipping charge is 10% of the order total + $10; minimum $15, maximum $75. Ships via UPS to the lower 48 States and 10 Provinces. No duty or brokerage charges. No surprises. Tracking information will be emailed.
Buying a complete hub-to-hub “package” can often be more convenient than sourcing all of the parts separately. Many of our dealers offer kits which include brakes, spindles, rack, control arms, etc. Please visit our Dealers page to find the dealer nearest you.
Applications:
56-1/2″ Track Width:
1933-48 Ford Cars
1935-41 Ford Pickups
1935-54 Chev Cars
1954-62 Corvette
1937-55 Chev Pickups (early series)
1933-38 Dodge Cars
1933-38 Plymouth
1934-47 Studebaker
58-1/2″ Track Width:
1942-52 Ford Pickups (click for cut diagrams)
60-1/2″ Track Width:
1953-79 Ford F100 Pickups
1955-59 (second series) Chev Pickups
62-1/2" Track Width
1968 Dodge D100 Pickups
Our Model ‘A’ manual brake pedal is at:
I hope we can help with your project.
Paul Horton