Dear Welder Series…
I’m building a 1930 Model A on boxed ’30 frame. I want to use your flat crossmember in order to use a 1936 wishbone with the spring forward of the axle.
I want to know if I can place your flat crossmember in front of the stock cross member in order that I may keep the original design, i.e. radiator and fenders etc…??
Has anyone done this before??
I want the car as low as possible and the use of the intact ’36 wishbone. I intend on using cross rack steering and need the clearance as well.
Thanks,
Mike
Dear Mike…
Thanks for looking at Welder Series’ parts.
Our flat front crossmember is designed for a 1-3/4″ wide spring, like the 1928-34 Ford. The ’36 Ford used a 2″ wide front spring, so it will not fit in our crossmember. The ’36 spring is longer than the Model ‘A’ spring, so it can’t be adapted to the ’36 stock wishbone, either.
The ’36 axle will be a little wide to let you get the front end low. (The tires will be out at the edge of the fenders.) You might want to mock up your parts to see how it looks before buying any parts. The standard way to get a Model ‘A’ low is to use a 46″ dropped axle with a reversed eye spring with a low arch.
I hope this helps.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Thanks Paul…….I already have the 31″ 1 3/4 reverse eye spring with a 6″ arc, now I need the 46″ axle. I wanted to use the 1936 wishbone unsplit but I guess I will have to split it after all.
Thanks again,
Mike
Dear Mike…
Mike, you might be able to use the wishbone unsplit and just cut off the spring perch extensions. The spring would mount above the axle.
Paul
Dear Welder Series…
YES, that’s what I intend on doing I just have to find the widest perch possible on the “I” beam. The wishbone is 39.5″ apart and the “I” beam I have is 36″ and I have a feeling that the 46″ axle will also have around 36″ between bosses. Maybe I can bend the wishbone to match the bosses when I get the 46″ axle.
Worse scenario is splitting the wishbone…………..
Since I have you online, do you guys sell “X” crossmember for the model A frame? I need something for my 4L60 transmission to bolt onto. I’m running a 283 cu. in. motor as well and will also need the motor mounts to weld to the frame and attach to the motor, side mounts.
I have a 1930 model A frame that is completely stepped up and boxed. I have a center cross member but I would like to reinforce the frame a little more and have the setup to bolt on the brake pedal, etc..
Thanks again,
Mike
Dear Mike…
Mike, most 46″ axle perch centers are about 34-1/2″. You should be able to bring the wishbone in to match the 46″ axle perches. Make sure the ball stays in the center.
We don’t have a Model ‘A’ x-member. Check Dagel’s https://dagels.com/super-x-crossmember-kit/. Welder Series does have Chev motor mounts.
Brake kit for 1974 -78 Mustang II and 1974 – 80 Pinto/Bobcat spindles. This kit adapts larger 10-1/2″ Camaro/ S10 rotors and 1982 – 92 Camaro (or equivalent) calipers for a simple, effective, and inexpensive brake upgrade. Some 14″ wheels will clear the calipers; 15″ and above wheels will clear. The 1982 – 92 Camaro rotors move each wheel in 1/8″ from stock rotors. WS2136
The S10/Camaro rotors fit onto the Mustang II spindles using stock 74-78 Mustang II bearings (NAPA SET12 & SET13). Remove the GM bearing cups from the rotor. Install the Mustang II cups. Do not use the Mustang II bearing race with the GM cup! Use NAPA seal #48011 or Chicago Rawhide #CR19211. The outer washers and spindle nuts are included in this kit. Use GM dust covers (NAPA #13977). Use stock GM brake pads (or equivalent) #VR7070A for the calipers.
Stock GM calipers have a lip around the brake hose port. Grind this lip and rotate the hose fitting so it clears the coil spring when the steering is at full turn lock. Be sure the brake flex hoses do not touch wheels, tires or any other parts under suspension travel or cornering conditions.
Welded kit includes all hardware shown in ready-to-weld kit.
Parts Included:
Plate, brake kit, tapped, for adapting Camaro rotors and calipers to Mustang II spindles, 21362, 2
Nut and washer assembly, 21364, 2
Retainer, for spindle nut, 213643, 2
Spacer, threaded 1/2″-20, 221252-A, 2
Spacer, 3/4″ o.d. x 7/16″ i.d. x .425″ long, 21363-A, 2
Bolt, 7/16-14 RH x 1-3/4″ long, Grade 5 hex, zinc plated, 2
Bolt, 1/2″-20 RH x 2″ long, Grade 5 hex, zinc plated, 2
Washer, 7/16″ lock, zinc plated, 2
Washer, 1/2″ lock, zinc plated, 2
Washer, 1/2″ SAE flat, 2
Assembly Tips:
Use a pair of 1974-78 Mustang II spindles as a fixture. This way the parts will be held in exactly the right place for tack welding. When you tack the pieces together, mind how your spindles are sitting on your bench. If the spindle shaft threads are touching your welding bench, the ground might mess up the threads a bit and you’ll have some extra work cleaning them up. Put a small piece of wood between the threads and the bench so the ground goes through the main part of the spindle.
The end of the threaded spacer (for the ½-20 bolt) should bottom against the slot in the plate. Take the tacked assembly off of the spindles to finish welding. Avoid getting weld inside the threaded spacer.
Be sure to read the installation tip sheets shipped with each kit.
Our Model ‘A’ manual brake pedal is at:
I hope we can help with your project.
Paul Horton