Dear Welder Series…
I’m building a 1930 Model A on boxed ’30 frame. I want to use your flat crossmember in order to use a 1936 wishbone with the spring forward of the axle.
I want to know if I can place your flat crossmember in front of the stock cross member in order that I may keep the original design, i.e. radiator and fenders etc…??
Has anyone done this before??
I want the car as low as possible and the use of the intact ’36 wishbone. I intend on using cross rack steering and need the clearance as well.
Thanks,
Mike
Dear Mike…
Thanks for looking at Welder Series’ parts.
Our flat front crossmember is designed for a 1-3/4″ wide spring, like the 1928-34 Ford. The ’36 Ford used a 2″ wide front spring, so it will not fit in our crossmember. The ’36 spring is longer than the Model ‘A’ spring, so it can’t be adapted to the ’36 stock wishbone, either.
The ’36 axle will be a little wide to let you get the front end low. (The tires will be out at the edge of the fenders.) You might want to mock up your parts to see how it looks before buying any parts. The standard way to get a Model ‘A’ low is to use a 46″ dropped axle with a reversed eye spring with a low arch.
I hope this helps.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Thanks Paul…….I already have the 31″ 1 3/4 reverse eye spring with a 6″ arc, now I need the 46″ axle. I wanted to use the 1936 wishbone unsplit but I guess I will have to split it after all.
Thanks again,
Mike
Dear Mike…
Mike, you might be able to use the wishbone unsplit and just cut off the spring perch extensions. The spring would mount above the axle.
Paul
Dear Welder Series…
YES, that’s what I intend on doing I just have to find the widest perch possible on the “I” beam. The wishbone is 39.5″ apart and the “I” beam I have is 36″ and I have a feeling that the 46″ axle will also have around 36″ between bosses. Maybe I can bend the wishbone to match the bosses when I get the 46″ axle.
Worse scenario is splitting the wishbone…………..
Since I have you online, do you guys sell “X” crossmember for the model A frame? I need something for my 4L60 transmission to bolt onto. I’m running a 283 cu. in. motor as well and will also need the motor mounts to weld to the frame and attach to the motor, side mounts.
I have a 1930 model A frame that is completely stepped up and boxed. I have a center cross member but I would like to reinforce the frame a little more and have the setup to bolt on the brake pedal, etc..
Thanks again,
Mike
Dear Mike…
Mike, most 46″ axle perch centers are about 34-1/2″. You should be able to bring the wishbone in to match the 46″ axle perches. Make sure the ball stays in the center.
We don’t have a Model ‘A’ x-member. Check Dagel’s https://dagels.com/super-x-crossmember-kit/. Welder Series does have Chev motor mounts.
Sway Bar Kit – Customizable and Built for Performance
This sway bar kit is available in 45″ or 49-1/2” lengths but can easily be cut to any size using a hacksaw to suit your application. The sway bar is made from 1″ diameter solid 4142 heat-treated, cold-finished steel, ensuring strength and durability. Both ends of the bar are smooth for easy assembly.
Key Features:
- Bar Construction: Solid steel bar with smooth ends that can be securely attached to couplers using heavy-duty 1/4″ coiled spring pins and/or welded (optional). The couplers are welded to the arms for a strong connection.
- Arm Options: Choose from 8″, 12″, or 17″ arms (laser-cut from 3/8″ thick steel). Arms have a ~7/8” offset. You can bend them to clear the front tires in a turn.
- Mounting: Optional Delrin bushings isolate the sway bar inside a 1-5/8" OD DOM outer tube for smooth performance, or use pillow block bearings to mount the bar directly below your frame. Adjustable rod ends connect the arms to the tabs welded to the frame or rear end.
- Customizable Fit: The sway bar's overall length is ¾” longer than the bar itself, accounting for the 3/8″ thick arms mounted on the ends. The arms can be bent to clear coil-overs (rear sway bar) or tires (front sway bar) for added flexibility.
About the Coiled Spring Pins:
- These spiral pins stay flexible after installation, absorbing shock and vibration better than standard slotted pins.
- Tension fit: They hold tight against the hole wall.
- Chamfered ends: Make installation easy.
- Breaking strength: Rated at 5,500 lbs in double shear, providing exceptional durability under stress.
How To Order:
- The base kit includes:
- A 1″ diameter, 45″ solid sway bar.
- A hardware package (as shown in the product images).
- Work through the options list to customize your sway bar, choosing mounting preferences, arm lengths, and other features.
Prefer to order over the phone? Call us toll-free at 1-888-648-2150, and we’ll guide you through the process.
Hardware Package
This is the basic hardware package that comes with every kit. Heim joints are Teflon lined and made in the USA. They now come in a yellow zinc plating. Both couplers are supplied with 1" smooth ID couplers.
Arm Mounting Options:
Axle Bracket Tabs
Designed to mount the heim joints to 3" axle tubes. 10 ga. 3/8" hole.
Frame Mounting Tabs, 11/16"
These 3/16" thick tabs will mount the heim joints nice and close to your frame rail. 3/8" hole.
Long Frame Mount Tabs
If you need some more distance between the arm and the frame rail, these 3/16" tabs tabs might be the solution. 4" from the frame edge to the 3/8" hole center.
Control Arm Tabs
Typically used to mount the heim joints to a 1" dia tubular lower control arm. 3/16" thick, 3/8" hole.
Sway Bar Mounting Options
Pillow Block Bearing Mount
If you want to mount your sway bar underneath the frame using pillow block bearings, here is the option for you. Select "no outer tube" and "no outer tube mounts". These bearing mounts have set screws at 12:00 and 3:00 to keep the bar from moving side to side. Just use a drill bit to create a small divot for a more secure connection. They will accept some misalignment as the bearing is mounted in a rounded cage and will pivot.
If your unboxed frame is already painted and you want a bolt-on kit, please see the related parts below for a bolt-on pillow block bracket.
Note: bars will not be supplied splined.
Two pillow block bearings are supplied. For mounting hardware options, see below.
Pillow Block Mounting Hardware
Option A: 3/8-16 nylok nuts for mounting to an unboxed frame rail where you have access to the nuts. Includes two pillow block bearings.
Option B: 3/8-16 threaded bungs to weld into a boxed frame rail. Includes two pillow block bearings and lock washers.
Option C: 3/8-16 tab weld nuts to weld inside the frame rail before boxing. Includes two pillow block bearings and lock washers.
Tube Mount
Like our 3/4" sway bar kit, this kit is also available with a 1-5/8" OD x .188" heavy wall outer tube mount. The 1" bar is isolated with CNC machined Delrin bushings. This outer tube can be installed through the frame rails to mount the arms outside the rails. It is strong enough to be used as a crossmember to mount coilovers or Shockwaves to.
Under Frame Mount:
These plates have two 3/8" mounting holes, with the opposite end designed to weld to the 1-5/8" outer tube. With this option, the sway bar can be mounted underneath the frame rails. We have weld-in threaded bungs and hardware available to fasten the plate, if required. 1" from the top of the 1-5/8" tube to the mounting hole centerline.
Our Model ‘A’ manual brake pedal is at:
I hope we can help with your project.
Paul Horton