Dear Welder Series…
I’m building a 1930 Model A on boxed ’30 frame. I want to use your flat crossmember in order to use a 1936 wishbone with the spring forward of the axle.
I want to know if I can place your flat crossmember in front of the stock cross member in order that I may keep the original design, i.e. radiator and fenders etc…??
Has anyone done this before??
I want the car as low as possible and the use of the intact ’36 wishbone. I intend on using cross rack steering and need the clearance as well.
Thanks,
Mike
Dear Mike…
Thanks for looking at Welder Series’ parts.
Our flat front crossmember is designed for a 1-3/4″ wide spring, like the 1928-34 Ford. The ’36 Ford used a 2″ wide front spring, so it will not fit in our crossmember. The ’36 spring is longer than the Model ‘A’ spring, so it can’t be adapted to the ’36 stock wishbone, either.
The ’36 axle will be a little wide to let you get the front end low. (The tires will be out at the edge of the fenders.) You might want to mock up your parts to see how it looks before buying any parts. The standard way to get a Model ‘A’ low is to use a 46″ dropped axle with a reversed eye spring with a low arch.
I hope this helps.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Thanks Paul…….I already have the 31″ 1 3/4 reverse eye spring with a 6″ arc, now I need the 46″ axle. I wanted to use the 1936 wishbone unsplit but I guess I will have to split it after all.
Thanks again,
Mike
Dear Mike…
Mike, you might be able to use the wishbone unsplit and just cut off the spring perch extensions. The spring would mount above the axle.
Paul
Dear Welder Series…
YES, that’s what I intend on doing I just have to find the widest perch possible on the “I” beam. The wishbone is 39.5″ apart and the “I” beam I have is 36″ and I have a feeling that the 46″ axle will also have around 36″ between bosses. Maybe I can bend the wishbone to match the bosses when I get the 46″ axle.
Worse scenario is splitting the wishbone…………..
Since I have you online, do you guys sell “X” crossmember for the model A frame? I need something for my 4L60 transmission to bolt onto. I’m running a 283 cu. in. motor as well and will also need the motor mounts to weld to the frame and attach to the motor, side mounts.
I have a 1930 model A frame that is completely stepped up and boxed. I have a center cross member but I would like to reinforce the frame a little more and have the setup to bolt on the brake pedal, etc..
Thanks again,
Mike
Dear Mike…
Mike, most 46″ axle perch centers are about 34-1/2″. You should be able to bring the wishbone in to match the 46″ axle perches. Make sure the ball stays in the center.
We don’t have a Model ‘A’ x-member. Check Dagel’s https://dagels.com/super-x-crossmember-kit/. Welder Series does have Chev motor mounts.
This pedal mounting kit locates the booster under the seat, while still mounting the pedal in double shear. Available fully welded or ready to weld.
This universal bracket mounts under the floor with the booster located further back on the frame rail. A 22" long 5/8″ diameter tube connects the pedal to the booster. (This tube might need to be cut to length and rethreaded 3/8-24 to suit your application.) This set-up gives added clearance beside the transmission so the exhaust can be routed higher. The offset brake pedal arm mounts in double shear for extra strength. This also makes it easy to remove the pedal because it drops down from the bracket rather than having to slide it off of a pin. The pedal arm bracket bolts to 2 tabs welded to the frame rail boxing plate. This makes it easy to paint the bracket and the frame rail. Stainless pedal pad brackets are included (left and right mounts for brake/clutch kit).
The brackets are 3/16", and the pedal arm is 3/8".
Booster not included.
The booster bracket is also set up for either a Ford or a GM manual master cylinder, if preferred. (If a manual master cylinder is used, you can order a 5.75:1 pedal arm and a male rod end and plunger. The bracket needs to be rotated 90 degrees due to the different shape of the manual pedal.) The bracket will mount either 7″ (single or dual) or 8″ dual boosters. Booster mounting holes are 3-3/8″ x 3-3/8″.
Adding a clutch:
This kit is also available with a clutch pedal add-on. We include an extra formed bracket for the pedal mount and both the brake and clutch pedals are supplied with no offset. In the welded kit, the brake/clutch pedal bracket is supplied as in the gallery picture.
Our Model ‘A’ manual brake pedal is at:
I hope we can help with your project.
Paul Horton