Dear Welder Series…
I’m building a 1930 Model A on boxed ’30 frame. I want to use your flat crossmember in order to use a 1936 wishbone with the spring forward of the axle.
I want to know if I can place your flat crossmember in front of the stock cross member in order that I may keep the original design, i.e. radiator and fenders etc…??
Has anyone done this before??
I want the car as low as possible and the use of the intact ’36 wishbone. I intend on using cross rack steering and need the clearance as well.
Thanks,
Mike
Dear Mike…
Thanks for looking at Welder Series’ parts.
Our flat front crossmember is designed for a 1-3/4″ wide spring, like the 1928-34 Ford. The ’36 Ford used a 2″ wide front spring, so it will not fit in our crossmember. The ’36 spring is longer than the Model ‘A’ spring, so it can’t be adapted to the ’36 stock wishbone, either.
The ’36 axle will be a little wide to let you get the front end low. (The tires will be out at the edge of the fenders.) You might want to mock up your parts to see how it looks before buying any parts. The standard way to get a Model ‘A’ low is to use a 46″ dropped axle with a reversed eye spring with a low arch.
I hope this helps.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Thanks Paul…….I already have the 31″ 1 3/4 reverse eye spring with a 6″ arc, now I need the 46″ axle. I wanted to use the 1936 wishbone unsplit but I guess I will have to split it after all.
Thanks again,
Mike
Dear Mike…
Mike, you might be able to use the wishbone unsplit and just cut off the spring perch extensions. The spring would mount above the axle.
Paul
Dear Welder Series…
YES, that’s what I intend on doing I just have to find the widest perch possible on the “I” beam. The wishbone is 39.5″ apart and the “I” beam I have is 36″ and I have a feeling that the 46″ axle will also have around 36″ between bosses. Maybe I can bend the wishbone to match the bosses when I get the 46″ axle.
Worse scenario is splitting the wishbone…………..
Since I have you online, do you guys sell “X” crossmember for the model A frame? I need something for my 4L60 transmission to bolt onto. I’m running a 283 cu. in. motor as well and will also need the motor mounts to weld to the frame and attach to the motor, side mounts.
I have a 1930 model A frame that is completely stepped up and boxed. I have a center cross member but I would like to reinforce the frame a little more and have the setup to bolt on the brake pedal, etc..
Thanks again,
Mike
Dear Mike…
Mike, most 46″ axle perch centers are about 34-1/2″. You should be able to bring the wishbone in to match the 46″ axle perches. Make sure the ball stays in the center.
We don’t have a Model ‘A’ x-member. Check Dagel’s https://dagels.com/super-x-crossmember-kit/. Welder Series does have Chev motor mounts.
Mustang II crossmember kit, for conventional coil-overs or Shockwaves. Ships for 10% of the price + $10. Available as a welded crossmember or a ready-to-weld kit.
We've added a Shockwave specific kit which includes longer spacers (necessary when the mounting plates are widened to fit the air spring bellows), gussets, and 5/8" upper mounting hardware. The spacers and gussets are to be welded to the upper mounting plates for additional support.
This is a Mustang II kit for conventional coil-overs (the same style used in the rear) instead of stock-type springs and shocks. This lets you use different spring rates and maintain the same ride height by adjusting the lower spring collar on the coil-over. Often the coil-over shock has an adjustable rebound rate, too. Use conventional (NOT "MUSTANG II STYLE") coil-overs that have a ride height of 11-1/2 – 12”. Use Mustang II tubular upper arms and Mustang II tubular lower A-arms designed for coil-overs and no strut rod. This kit uses the stock Mustang II geometry and track width. The 56-1/2” width is used in Fords and Chevs up to 1948 and many other vehicles. 48-52 Ford F1 pickups look good with the 58-1/2” kit. ’53-56 Ford pickups should use the 60-1/2” kit. 2nd series ’54-’59 Chev pickups should use the 60-1/2” kit. Set up the front end at the height you want by notching the crossmember and towers to fit your frame. Detailed installation instructions are supplied with the kit and online by clicking the link below. Crossmember & upper towers are made from 3/16″ mild steel.
All kits are now shipped as two CNC formed pieces which nest together. Control arm mounts are now formed as well. Rack mounts are incorporated into the crossmember design and rotate the rack back 20° to get the input shaft lower. Stock, manual or power racks or later model Mustang II or T-Bird power racks can be used. The later power rack will require the Power Rack Spacer and longer bolts, as described in the power rack mount spacer section. The rack is positioned so the bellows will clear most aftermarket full A-Arms (such as Heidt’s, Total Cost Involved, Fatman, etc). Anti-dive is built into the upper bracket.
Either manual or power steering can be used and the passenger side mount has a slot to take the later model power rack. As with all Mustang II aftermarket crossmembers, spacers must be used with the later (Fox-body) power rack. These spacers are available from Welder Series as #24410.
These kits are designed to lower the front of the vehicle. Additional work might be required to keep a frame at the stock ride height.
If you specify a welded kit, the corner-to-corner welds are neat but not ground. The front and rear faces of the upper towers are formed.
What appears as lines in the pictures are actually laser-cut slits in the plate. These slits make it easy to form the rack mounts using an adjustable wrench (for increased leverage).
Upper control arm mounts are now supplied with the front and rear sections formed already.
The holes for the lower control arms are 5/8". OEM stamped lower arms used a 1/2" bolt. Lots of aftermarket lower A-arms use 5/8" bolts.
Installation instructions show how to set up the front end at the ride height you want. Rack extenders or Fairmont tie rod ends must be used on 58-1/2″, 60-1/2", and 62-1/2″ kits. The width is measured at the rotor wheel mounting surface. The width will vary, depending on the brake kit used.
Track width is the rotor wheel mounting surface-to-surface dimension. Welder Series makes 4 widths: stock (56-1/2″), and 2″, 4" and 6″ wider (58-1/2″, 60-1/2″ & 62-1/2"). These are nominal dimensions. The final track width is dependent on the control arms, wheels, and brake system used. An easy way to estimate the stock track width is to measure tire tread center-to-center.
The outside frame width is less critical than track width, but is a consideration. Our 56-1/2″ kit likes a frame o.d. of 26″ – 30″. The 58-1/2″ kit likes 28" – 32″, the 60-1/2″ kit likes 30" – 34″, and the 62-1/2" kit likes 32" - 36". If the frame doesn’t correspond to these dimensions, there are work-arounds that we can suggest.
Please note: lower control arm pivot tubes and gussets are not included because they are often included with the arms. Please see the Related Products section below to add a control arm mounting kit, brake kit, or power rack spacer kit.
Welder Series has a free service to help builders lay out the crossmember and upper tower cut lines. Click here for the work sheet. If you fill them out, take pictures of them, and email the pages back to us, we will give you drawings showing the sections to be removed. These worksheets can also give us the info we need to provide you with boxing plates. We’d give you a price for the plates and you can decide if you want to order them or make your own.
It is easiest to install any Mustang II crossmember into a rectangular tube frame. If your frame is a stamping with pockets for the coil spring and/or mounting provision for upper and lower control arms, it might be necessary to remove a section of the frame and replace it with tubing. There are several pictures in the thumbnails showing how this was done.
For assembly and installation instructions, click here.
Click to see our “Mustang II Installed Pics” blog category.
For a list of additional components (not supplied by Welder Series) for your front end, click here.
Click here to see our constantly updating Mustang II application chart.
Click here to see the current list of cut line drawings. We may have one for your car.
Click here to watch the Trucks!TV Mustang II install on Powerblock.
Click here for the PDF version of the magazine install.
Check out an assembly/install article from Rod & Custom Magazine.
Ships via UPS to the lower 48 States and 10 Provinces. No duty or brokerage charges. No surprises. Tracking information will be emailed.
Buying a complete hub-to-hub “package” can often be more convenient than sourcing all of the parts separately. Many of our dealers offer kits which include brakes, spindles, rack, control arms, etc. Please visit our Dealers page to find the dealer nearest you.
Popular Applications:
56-1/2″ Track Width:
1933-48 Ford Cars
1935-41 Ford Pickups
1935-54 Chev Cars
1954-62 Corvette
1937-55 Chev Pickups (early series)
1933-38 Dodge Cars
1933-38 Plymouth
1934-47 Studebaker
58-1/2" Track Width:
1948-52 Ford F1 Pickups (this width works well for lowered pickups)
60-1/2″ Track Width:
1948-52 Ford F1 Pickups (this width works well for pickups that are not lowered much)
1953-79 Ford F100 Pickups
1955-59 (second series) Chev Pickups
62-1/2" Track Width:
Mid-60's Dodge Pickups
Our Model ‘A’ manual brake pedal is at:
I hope we can help with your project.
Paul Horton