Category: dear welder series

Paul Horton’s replies to actual tech emails.

Dear Welder Series… Mustang II in a 1970 F100?

Dear Welder Series…
Hey guys I have been doing a little resurch I have a 1970 f100 and I’m looking to do either a crown Vic or mustang 2 front end swap and a 4 link in the rear. Could you guys help me out a little is the mustang ii front crossmember just a weld up deal or little confused and live in Wyoming so not a whole lot of people to help me out haha

Dear Donavan…
Our MII kits are available in pieces so you can save money by welding it.

A video on our website shows this being done. The instructions show how to cut notches in the crossmember and upper towers so your frame will sit at the ride height you want.

I hope this helps. Please ask other questions that you might have.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… triangulated four link angle question

Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul I am in the middle of installing one of your triangulated four links. How much angle do I need on the upper part? (angle from frame rail to rear housing if looking from top). If I have to shorten the upper bars what would you suggest the min. length be? Thanks

Dear Derek…
Derek, the upper bar frame bracket is designed to mount the bar at 27 degrees off of the frame. It might be hard to reduce this angle very much and still put a wrench on the nut, if the nut will even go on. Another option might be to mount the axle end of the upper bars just inside the frame rails and angle them towards the frame centerline. Then add a new crossmember and mount the frame brackets to it. This way the bars can stay at their original length. As the bars get shorter, the pinion angle changes more dramatically as the suspension works.

I hope this helps.

Paul

Dear Welder Series… 1953 Ford parts list?

Dear Welder Series…
I am looking for help with my 1953 Ford build.
I have purchased a 1993 LS1 motor, a 700 trans and a 12 bolt rear end I am trying to fit in the truck. The wheels I will be running are 30″ on the outside, 10 3/4″ wide with a 6 7/8 offset from the back of the rim. My goal is to set the bumpers and running boards on the ground with a full air ride. Is there a chance you could specify what I will need to purchase from your catalog to get all my frame welding going? As it stands right know I have pulled all the suspension out of the truck and it is just sitting on the frame now. Would love to order everything for Christmas. Thank you for your time and please feel free to call with any other questions you might have.
Keith

Dear Keith…
Keith, here are some links to kits for this build:
Choose a 60″ track width kit for your F100.
If you will use conventional air springs:


If you plan to use ShockWaves:

If you will use a power rack from a 79-92 T-Bird, order the relocation kit:

There are several different LS engine mount kits.  They are shown at

For your 700 R4 transmission, here are 2 options:
A simple crosmember and drop-out saddle (check out the “welded” version):

Or a tubular center section (with the 700R4 trans mount option):

For either of the above, use transmission mount insulator

If your 12 bolt rear end has the ears for the triangulated GM links, you could use our rear kit:

We would add brackets if you will use conventional air springs.

 

The crossmember shown below can be used to mount the upper end of the ShockWave (with 5/8″ hardware), or shocks with 7/16″ upper eyes.

If you plan to use a parallel rear 4-link, here are the kit pages:

For ShockWaves:


Use the rear crossmember with 5/8″ bolts.
With shockWaves on either the triangulated or the parallel kit, use the bolt kit here:

I hope this list helps.  Please write or call on our toll-free line, 1-888-648-2150, if you want more details.

Dear Welder Series… step notch in ’51 Buick?

Dear Welder Series…
I was looking at your universal step notch kit and had some questions before purchase..
Does your universal notch kit fit or has ever been installed on a 1951 Buick Super?
When installing, does the longer side piece go on the inside or outside of the frame? In your pictures I see it on occasions on the inside and on others on the outside. Or maybe on the part of the frame that is boxed?
Is this notch kit the standard size for “most” notch kits or do other widths and lengths exist? Ex. The top of the step span 8 1/2″  or will others span more?

Dear Gabriel…
Gabriel, I don’t know of an installation in a Buick like yours, but this step notch kit (shown below) has been installed in many frames that are similar. i.e. Full frame, larger vehicles.

The longer piece does go on the inside to, in effect, box the inside of the frame.

We do just make this one size.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts and for these questions.

Dear Welder Series… four bar bushing question

Dear Welder Series…
I have your Sept. 2011 catalog and I am going to order a rear 4-bar; but I have a question on the 1-3/8 wide urethane bushings. Are these bushings 1-3/8″ in between the brackets?

Dear James…
James, the dimension (1-3/8″ or 1-3/4″) is between the sides of the brackets. You might want to check our web store for current details on the rear 4-link kits shown here:

.

The 1-3/8″ and the 1-3/4″ bushing kits are now the same price. (The 1-3/4″ kits have become much more popular and the 1-3/8″ kits have become less popular. We are making so many more 1-3/4″ than 1-3/8″ that the prices have evened out.) The 1-3/8″ kits are only available as welded kits. The 1-3/4″ kits are available welded or ready-to-weld.

I hope this helps with your ordering decision. Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… Hanging Brake/ Clutch Pedal?

Dear Welder Series…
Can you list the “Welder Series” parts I would require to install a brake and clutch pedal assembly in a 34 Ford truck cab. I would like a hanging pedal for both brake and clutch. I saw how one or customers converted a brake master bracket to hang. This is what I think I need. Do you have these as a kit yet or can you provide a drawing for the set up?
Many thanks.

Dear Brock…
Brock, we don’t have a kit number for this set-up, or a drawing but here are the products:
1x (below)

2x (below)

2x (below)

2x (below)

2x (below)

4x (below)

You might need 2 plungers, depending on the master cylinders used.

2x (below) 

Bolts, nuts, and washers will be needed to attach the pedals to the bracket. We have these in stock and can supply them once we know what you will be using. We can take a picture that will explain how this would go together. It would be a good idea to connect the bracket to the dash for extra support.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts for your project.

Dear Welder Series…Four Link for a Nova?

Dear Welder Series…
Hello,  I am looking at your triangulated 4 link kits and I am going to put a 4 link in my Nova. My question is will your kits work in my 72 Nova that has been mini tubbed? If so which kit do I need? Thank you very much for your help and I look forward to hearing back from you.

Thanks,
Tim

Dear Tim…
Tim, our triangulated rear kit (shown below) has been used in lots of different applications. We put the instruction sheets on the website so you can check the dimensions against your frame and possible interference items.

I hope this helps… Let me know if you have other questions after looking at the drawings.

Dear Welder Series… Steering Column Floor Mount?

Dear Welder Series…
Dear sirs, I have used your products in the past and have asked for advise from time to time and am thankfull for your frank advise. Does Welder Series offer a floor support for a 1 1/2″ steering column tube?

Dear Brock…
Sorry, Brock, we don’t have a floor column support. You have got my brain going, though.

Thanks for using Welder Series parts in your project.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… narrow Mustang II crossmember?

Dear Welder Series…
I presently have a car that uses Armstrong front shocks and I want to replace the front suspension with your Mustang II Crossmember Kit. The problem is the frame is tubular and very narrow. The front tread is 45 1/2 inch. Can your kit be made to work? Thanks Frank

Dear Frank…
Frank, Maval Mfg can make a Mustang II rack up to 9″ narrower than stock. This would get the track width down to 47-1/2″ with stock (length) upper and lower arms and stock, 4-bolt rotors. Aftermarket brake kits often move the wheel mounting face of the rotors outboard or inboard, changing the track width. Shorter upper and lower arms will narrow the track width. I’ve heard that there are arms 1″ shorter than stock. This would get you in the 45-1/2″ range by cutting a portion out of the middle of our crossmember (shown below).

 

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… 1956 F100 transmission mount?

Dear Welder Series…
I’m building a 1956 F100. Supercharged 5.4 with 4r100 trans. I have purchased your engine mounts, but I’m looking for a tranny mount that will work with the 4r100
Thanks

Andy

Dear Andy…
Andy, have a look at our 2115 transmission mount and crossmember (below):

and the 205041 Ford adapter plate (below):

which use the insulator/rubber mount (below):

205041 has recently been modified (new #205042) so it will work with transmissions that have rubber mount hole centers from 5-5/16″ to 5-9/16″. All of this has to be filtered by you knowing that I am not at all familiar with this transmission, except by looking online.

Thanks for looking to Welder Series on this problem.

Dear Welder Series… 1946 Ford transmission mount questions.

Dear Welder Series…
I hate to ask because I’m afraid I may have missed it in the blogs but Im going to anyway. I have a 1946 ford coupe. I’m installing a 4.6l dohc and 4L70 transmission in. I am getting the motor mounts and I am considering the the tubular center section. The factory frame has some plating but with large holes in it. Do I need to cut away that plating and make it solid? Also I’m not sure what if any transmission mount plate combinations I would need to mount up the 4L70. It’s a drivetrain from a 1998 Lincoln Mark Viii. Thanks for the help.

Dear Tom…
Tom, I’m not familiar with the Lincoln transmission, but we are modifying our 205041 adapter plate so it will bolt to the Ford C4, C6, and AOD transmissions. Here is the product:

If the 4L70 is available for you to get the mounting hole centers, please send them to me.

Regarding the boxing plates, we left the factory boxing in place and filled any holes necessary to mount the crossmember and engine mounts.

Because your car’s floor has a bit of a driveshaft tunnel, our tubular center section will not work as nicely as it does in vehicles with a flat floor. Check out the installation info below to see if this is how you want to go.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… 1949 Dodge MII?

Dear Welder Series…
I have a 49 dodge 4 door sedan that I would like to install a modern front suspension. Is there a set up that can be used? It looks like a person would have to remove the origional crossmember A arm set up and almost build a front clip. Any info would be helpful.
Thank you

Dear Chuck…
Chuck, you have this pictured correctly. There are some pictures on our website showing how builders have dealt with frames like yours. Check out http://welderseries.com/blog/category/mustang-ii-installed-pics/ .

Dear Welder Series… 5/8-18 LH threaded tubes?

Dear Welder Series…
Hey Paul on the 1″ OD X 1-1/2, 5/8-18 threaded bungs do you have them in left handed thread? I am needing 6 of each.

Dear David…
Thanks for asking, David. We could run 6 of these with a LH thread for $6.00 each. They have been added to our web store:

I hope this will help with your project.

Dear Welder Series… Model A K-Member?

Dear Welder Series…
I have a 1928 Ford Tudor I will be building this summer. I was wondering if you have a simple K-Member that would fit a boxed Model A frame? It could be set up to accept the popular GM auto and manual transmissions. Ok ok and Ford transmissions as well. Also you could supplement it with frame boxing plates for a Model A as well? I will be using the Ansen style swing pedals but you could incorporate provisions for brake master cyl as well as a clutch master or pedals that a customer could make his own clutch linkage with. I’m sure you’ve been asked before but I see no reference anywhere on your web site. Great products keep up the outstanding work.

Respectfully,
George

P.S. I don’t Facebook or Tweet its not my style. Sorry……

Dear George…
Thanks for including Welder Series in your Model ‘A’ plans, George. We don’t make boxing plates for the ‘A’ frame, but we can suggest a K-member that is inexpensive and effective: use our 2115 transmission mount & crossmember (shown below):

and make a ‘K’ using 3 x 1-1/2″ tubing angling from the center/rear of the trans crossmember back and out to the frame rails. We have adapters for Ford transmissions, too.

Keep us up to date on your project, please.

Dear Welder Series… will I need a sway bar with triangulated four link?

Dear Welder Series…
I have a quick question relating to the rear axle/ triangulated four-link:
Will I need a rear sway bar in addition to the triangulated four-link set-up? I see conflicting responses online, and figured you may have the best answer.

Thanks,
-A
Dear A…
Depending on who is doing the defining, a sway bar might refer to an anti-roll bar (shown below):
or a Panhard bar (shown below):

Our sway bar/anti-roll bar is designed to resist the tendency to lean when in a turn. A Panhard bar keeps the frame centered, with some tolerance, between the tires and has a minimal effect on the tendency to lean in a turn.A Panhard bar, or some other location device, is necessary when a parallel rear 4-link is used because the bars themselves don’t offer much resistance to left-right chassis movement. (Left-right movement is different from leaning or rolling left to right.)

The triangulation of the bars resists the left-right movement when a triangulated rear 4-link is used so a Panhard bar is not required.

I hope this is clear.

Thanks for asking.