Author: DW

D100: Rack Extensions

Here’s a quick bit of info on how we matched the rack to our 62-1/2″ Mustang II crossmember.

Theoretically, you could widen a Mustang II crossmember as much as you wanted… the key is protecting the control arm pivot points and tie rod geometry. When you’re thinking of widening a Mustang II rack, there are two ways to do it properly… outside the bushings and inside the bushings.
‘Outside the bushings’ refers to pushing the tie rod ball and socket joint towards the wheel. This has to be done the same amount as the crossmember is wider than stock – typically 2″ per side on a 4″ wider than stock configuration. Longer tie rod ends can also be used on a 58″ wide crossmember.
‘Inside the bushings’ refers to lengthening the actual rack and rack housing. For a much wider crossmember, this might be a good option… there are even racks available that are wider than stock for this purpose. Your crossmember will have to be set up or modified for a wider rack. Welder Series crossmembers are designed to use rack extenders – the ‘outside the bushing’ method.

On my 1968 D100 truck build, I used a Welder Series 62-1/2″ track width crossmember, with rack extenders from Heidts. I used two (4″ total) on the passenger side, and one (2″ total) on the driver side. Our rack mounts favor the driver side, so the steering input shaft is closer to the frame rail and will be more likely to be aimed away from your headers.

Note: the rack bushings mount with the shoulder against the crossmember, and the serrations biting in to the rack mounts. Use a bolt size washer (included in our #24410 power rack mounting kit) on the front of the bushing, and let the bushing mushroom as you tighten the nut.

Driver side ball & socket joint removed.
Rack extender threaded on (use red locktite!)
Passenger side.
2″ rack extender installed (red locktite applied).
4″ total of rack spacers. This is effectively lengthening the rack.
Install the boots which come in the rack extender kit, and crimp the band clamps.
I used these pliers from my EZ Clip A/C hoses.

Syracuse 2017

The shop will be closed from Thursday till Monday while we’re at the Syracuse Nationals. We don’t have a booth again this year, but I’ll be around the Tucci Hot Rods booth if you’d like to talk with me.

If you’re on Instagram and Facebook and going to Syracuse, you’ll want to make sure you’re following us (just search for welderseries) because I’ll be posting throughout the weekend, and playing a little interactive game with prizes!

Thanks for your support. We’re looking forward to enjoying the weekend. Say hi if you see me!

DW Horton

D100 Parts List

As we progress through this 1968 Dodge D100 pickup build, you might see a product that catches your fancy… here’s a (fairly) comprehensive list of what we used.

DescriptionSupplierPart #LinkComments
Mustang II front crossmember kitWelder Series219625https://welderseries.ecwid.com/Mustang-II-Crossmember-Kit-for-Coil-Overs-p51209593
Upper control armsRideTech19013699https://www.ridetech.com/product/mustang-ii-strongarm-control-arms-front-upper_19013699/
Lower control armsRideTech19012899https://www.ridetech.com/product/mustang-ii-strongarm-control-arms-front-lower_19012899/
Front boxing platesWelder Series680001https://welderseries.ecwid.com/Front-frame-boxing-plate-1961-71-Dodge-D100-p77777686
Front C NotchWelder Series12202https://welderseries.ecwid.com/Front-C-Notch-Fill-Piece-for-Rack-EA-p51047358For rack bellows clearance.
Rack Extension KitHeidtsMP-039-4http://www.heidts.com/part/4-rack-extension-power-kit-mp-039-4/We added 4" to the passenger side and 2" to the driver side.
Ride height setup toolWelder Series405711https://welderseries.ecwid.com/Right-Height-Vehicle-Set-Up-Tool-PR-p83035424
Front ShockwavesRideTech21140101https://www.ridetech.com/product/universal-shockwave-1000-series/12.8" ride height, 4.1" stroke.
Rear ShockwavesRideTech21150801https://www.ridetech.com/product/universal-shockwave-8000-series/14.6" ride height, 5.2" stroke.
Triangulated rear four linkWelder Series318500https://welderseries.ecwid.com/Triangulated-Rear-Four-Link-Kit-p49926314Lower bars mounted directly under the frame rails.
Rear upper frame bracket boxing plateWelder Series680002https://welderseries.ecwid.com/Upper-Frame-Bracket-for-Triangulated-Four-Link-p51029778
Rear step notch kitWelder Series219707https://welderseries.ecwid.com/Step-Notch-Kit-Universal-PR-p50202433Kit modified to be max. 3.5" above bed floor.
Sway bar kitWelder SeriesWS22740https://welderseries.ecwid.com/Sway-Bar-Kit-Trim-to-Fit-3-4-Bar-p49762034Kit modified: larger outer tube used as upper Shockwave crossmember.
Front wheelsWheel Vintiques12-671204https://www.wheelvintiques.com/all-wheels/16x7-smoothie-primer-5x4-5-5x4-75-bolt-4-backspace.html16x7 Smoothie, 4" backspacing
Front tiresMichelin73391https://www.1010tires.com/Tires/Michelin/Defender/73391225/60R16. I bought them locally (Car Lane Automotive in Guelph). I think I'd go with a slightly shorter sidewall if I was doing it again.
Rear wheelsWheel Vintiques12-7912054https://www.wheelvintiques.com/all-wheels/17-x-9-smthie-5-4-1-2-5-4-3-4bp-bare-5-1-4-quot-b-s.html17x9 Smoothie, 5-1/4" backspacing
Rear tiresMichelin30842http://www.1010tires.com/Tires/Michelin/Premier+LTX275/55R17. These are just about as wide as we could get up in the wheel well. I bought these locally (Car Lane Automotive in Guelph).
A/C System: Gen IV MagnumVintage Air671400-VUZhttps://www.vintageair.com/2017%20Vintage%20Air%20Catalog.pdfEvaporator kit.
Gen IV Magnum mock-up unitVintage Air671450Check your local hot rod parts store.
Under dash control podVintage Air492050https://www.vintageair.com/custom/product-pop.php?pn=492050Lots of control options... this is the basic one.
Dash louversVintage Air49052-VULhttps://www.vintageair.com/custom/product-pop.php?pn=49052-VULI'll use three of these in the dash.
Control knob bezelsVintage Air484178https://www.vintageair.com/custom/product-pop.php?pn=484178
Compressor bracketVintage Air162774-SDAhttps://www.vintageair.com/custom/product-pop.php?pn=162774-SDACompressor/alternator bracket for 318.
CompressorVintage Air047000-SURhttps://www.vintageair.com/custom/product-pop.php?pn=047000-SURDouble V groove, rear exit.
DrierVintage Air07323-VUChttps://www.vintageair.com/custom/product-pop.php?pn=07323-VUCIncludes trinary switch and bracket.
Steering columnididit1130330051https://www.ididitinc.com/i-25048076-33-tilt-column-shift-steering-column-black-powder-coatedUniversal 33" Tilt Column Shift Steering Column - Black Powder Coated
Column dropBorgeson911222https://www.borgeson.com/xcart/product.php?productid=10952" drop, 2-1/4" diameter. I prefer this drop because of the tapered, rounded sides.
Exhaust kitFlowmaster815936https://www.holley.com/products/exhaust/builder_components/universal_pipe_kit/u-fit_dual_exhaustU-Fit Dual Kit, 2.50" 16 pc. Universal Dual Pipe Kit (pipes only), Mandrel Bent Tubing,16 Gauge 409S Stainless Steel Tubing
MufflersFlowmaster12512409https://www.holley.com/products/exhaust/mufflers/laminar_flow_mufflers/super_hp-2_series/standard/parts/12512409Super HP-2, 2.5", 409SS, 12" length. Also check out our YouTube channel for a quick video.
AlternatorPowermaster7294http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/catalog.html100A, natural finish, 12SI

D100 Seat: Update 2

After selecting the fabric from the LeBaron Bonney catalog (direct link) and giving Peter an admittedly vague description of what I was thinking for the seat, I had to accomplish one of the most difficult tasks in building a project: waiting.

Tack Upholstery

I have complete confidence in Peter’s ability to interpret my muddled attempts at describing a finished product, so there was no stress over that. I was more worried about the fabric, since I was the one who picked it, not heeding the advice of even my wife who has an uncanny ability to see color. She has chosen the EXACT color swatch sample from Home Depot three times over a period of about five years. Color doesn’t initially register as an adjective when I’m first looking at a car, for example. Anyways, this seat is AMAZING. Peter used the stock frame which was supplied with the truck (the seat that came installed was from a 1970 Fury 4 door). He refinished, painted, fixed the springs, added new foam… and kept the fabric aligned perfectly. I know it looks a bit purple in the pictures, but it’s actually a nice deep blue.

This is a nice step forward… I can make vroom vroom noises now!

D100 Build, Article 4: Rear Bump Stops

I always appreciate a good “reusal” of parts to either change their intended function, or to keep their original function but in a slightly different way. Using body trim tastefully from one model on a different car comes to mind. The reused part needs to fit the theme, however, and not merely look like it was used because it was 8:45 on a Sunday night, and the auto parts store workers were on strike.

In removing the original leaf spring rear suspension on the Sweptline, I ended up taking the bump stops off the frame too. They weren’t lined up with axle centerline, and I decided I could use the space outside the rails where they were sticking out. Also, they were going to be in the space I needed to remove for step notch clearance. I like the piece itself; just not where it was mounted.

After the notches were installed, I started to think about bump stops and remembered I still had the originals, so I cleaned them up, made a few tweaks, and present them to you now!

You can see where the bump stop on the outside of the rail would interfere with the area to be cut out for axle clearance.
I felt the rubber was a bit too hard, so I added (er- took away?) some holes to let the material collapse a bit.
Surprised bump stop is surprised.
The bump stop will be contacting the axle instead of the leaf spring, and since the bracket holding it to the frame was lower than the actual rubber, I had to trim it.
I also cut a little notch in the frame edge of the bracket for water drainage. The sandblaster really cleaned them up, including the rubber!

I won’t be installing them until I have the truck sitting with the Shockwaves fully collapsed so I know where it actually needs to be. They’ll be welded to the inside of the frame rails on the step notch.

If you need new bump stops, Energy Suspension has a bunch of options. Check out this reseller’s listing (I find it easier to search than the official website): http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/universal-bump-stops-shock-eyes.asp

Dear Welder Series…four bar bars – do they need jam nuts?

Dear Welder Series…
I have a couple questions about your 4 link kit. With the adjuster just on one end, wouldn’t it be best to just forget the jam nut? With a rubber boot to keep the dirt out, wouldn’t this let the bar “twist” and prevent binding? I’d have thought that the nut would work loose anyway as the adjuster attempted to loosen or tighten when you go over a bump with one wheel.

Also, I assume your adjusters and bars are a mild steel. How do I stop them from rusting after welding? Do you recommend plating? I would paint the bars etc but I’m unsure about the threaded portions.

Thanks
Miles

Dear Miles…
Hi, Miles. For street use, the bushings have enough elasticity to absorb the twist and not loosen the jam nuts. Even lubricated, it’s likely that the threads in the mild steel bars and adjuster studs would wear and either fail or have to be replaced periodically.

Thread the adjusters into the bars without the jam nuts to keep the threads clean, or just mask off the portion of the thread that will go into the bar.

Thanks for your interest in Welder Series parts.

Paul Horton

32 Update: Rear License Plate Frame Revision 1

You may remember the first version of the license plate frame was a Bob Drake stamped stainless piece that I sliced and welded to the spreader bar. If you don’t remember, re-read that first sentence, omitting the first three words. Here’s a pic:

After some reflection, a shortened “OUR WORK” could have become a shortened “OUR WRECK”.

Somewhere between Syracuse and home, and then again somewhere between home and Louisville, the turbulence at the back of the car was working the frame and breaking the weld. It was a challenge to weld the thin frame to the heavier wall spreader bar, and every time it broke off, I had to clean and re-weld it where it had already been heated. Suffice to say, I was ready for a revision.

The pieces started out like this. The lower part of the license plate is not cut off; it slips into a slot cut into the spreader bar.
The back lower edge of the surround plate was chamfered so that the front edge could sit flush with the spreader bar tube to make welding cleaner.
I put a slight radius on the vertical plates where they meet the tube.
I used some washers stacked and clamped tight to form the side plate around.
Tacked together.
This is just a fusion weld – no filler.
Just sitting on the spreader bar, getting an idea of the angle I want it to sit at.
I’m ok with the weld showing – it matches the rest of the car. I clearanced the frame for the O as well.
I put a bit of a radius on the corner to give it more of a stamped look.
Here’s the original frame welded to the spreader bar.

Customer Pics: 1954 Chevy truck

I came across this build on the 67-72chevytrucks.com forum and asked the builder if I could share the pics here. He used our step notch, rear four link, Panhard, and center section. Here’s the link to the build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=653414

Nice work! Parts used:

 
 
 

Dear Welder Series… 1953 Buick Mustang II?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi! I’m building a 53 Buick Special in Memphis and was looking for some info on Mustang 2 IFS. I’d like to build my own setup but not really sure where to begin! Any info would be greatly appreciated and any parts to get me going I would definitely purchase! Thanks for your time!

Dear Mustang II In Memphis…
Thanks for looking at the Welder Series site and asking about our parts for your project.  

The easiest way (and it’s not easy…) is to cut off the stock frame at the firewall and use rectangular tubing as new front frame rails. The Mustang II crossmember and towers will mount to them. It will be necessary to fab mounts to support the rad (cradle) and front end sheet metal. There are several pictures on our website where builders have done this. See them at:

We want to help you enjoy this build.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… center section for 67-72 C10?

Dear Welder Series…
Any idea whether the center section will work with a 67-72 C10, and do any of the trans mounts fit a 4L80E?

Thanks,
Russ

Dear Russ…
Thanks for this note, Russell.  

Could you give me your frame’s outside and inside widths (driver’s side to passenger’s side) at the transmission insulator?  

…and the frame rail channel height at that point? (The actual frame size, not the height from the ground.)

I’ll see how the center section looks in those dimensions and get back to you.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Thanks Paul,

I’ve got the following:

Outside frame rail width:  34-1/8″
Inside frame rail top:  29.5″
Inside frame rail bottom:  29″
Frame rail height:  6″

Dear Russ…
The center section will be snug but fine if the rails are boxed corner-to-corner off of the upper flange. If the plates are “step boxed” it will give extra space for a frame mounted booster.

This is based on how the curved lower tubes transition to the boxing plates.

I hope this info helps with your planning.

Paul

32 Update: Finding A Rattle

Over 40,000 miles or so, the 32 had developed a little clunkle (“clunk” + “rattle”) that was driving me batty. The severity of the rattle was not dependant on the size of the bump, or how fast I was driving, or any other variables that I could vary. I could make it happen by jumping on the front passenger side frame rail, but not the driver side frame rail.

I tried to check the most obvious culprits first;

  • Are any exhaust brackets broken?
  • Are the emergency brake cables thwapping on the floor?
  • Is something clunking around under the seat? I have a power outlet built in to the front of the seat, and a while ago I noticed that the wires were not secured to anything and would click on the floor sometimes.
  • Is the heater/ A/C unit secure? Are all the vents secure in the dash?
  • Does the noise happen whether the windows are up or down? Sometimes the glass can clunk side-to-side when it’s down, if the whiskers don’t hold the glass as tight as the upper channel. Also, check the power window motor – maybe it’s come loose?

Moving to the outside, I checked every bolt I could see. Sometimes a click can be caused by a bolt that’s binding and just releasing at a certain point, or the threads are sort of riding at the edge of a hole. I checked the radiator support rod brackets against the firewall, I checked the air cleaner, I checked the headlights… I checked all those things again. Ready for the spoiler? When I was grinding the boxing plate welds where the engine mounts meet the frame, I must have sneezed at one point and taken off more than necessary. There was a tiny spot where the vibrations of the engine travelling through the mounts to the frame had worked a stress crack, and going over a little bump or jumping on the frame rail would cause the boxing plate to flex just enough to create a little click… kind of like a mason jar lid.

I was able to go over the spot with the tig, and now I’m no longer canning! It’s nice to be able to focus on something other than that little clunkle.

What are some noises that you’ve discovered in your hot rod?