Author: DW

Dear Welder Series… Model A front axle question

Dear Welder Series…
Hello,
I just wanted to thank you for your catalog.
I am going to attempt at 64 years old to build my first hot rod on a fixed income(retired).
It’s a Model A full fendered and my question is can I use a stock 48 Ford axle (48′) with your flat front cross member,a reverse eye spring and 500 or 560-15 front tire and A)get the required drop or stance and B) will the front tires stick out too far into the fender as the 48 axle is 1 inch wider on each side.
Again many thanks,
Bryan

Dear Bryan…
Good questions. I’ve been sitting looking at your email for a few minutes trying to decide how to answer them. And it comes down to: “It depends…”

It depends on the stance you want. A starting point might be to put the axle and wheels/tires that will be used under the car with no spring mounted. Use a short (4” long?) 2×4 on edge, running front-to-rear, on top of the axle and under the stock front crossmember. This mock-up will be about as close to a low spring arch as you can get. If you are ok with the tire width and fender clearance at this height you can consider going lower.

The flat crossmember will let you lower the front a maximum of 2” compared to the stock crossmember. The stock Model A rad bottom tank drops down into the stock crossmember area. The rad shell hides the upper and lower tanks and the side straps. Our flat crossmember will use up the space that the lower tank wants, so a custom rad would be required. The rad shell would not hide the bottom tank. This is something to consider.  

I hope this gives you some help with your build. Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Thank you very much for your info Paul.
You have provided me some tips that I never knew in spite of reading hot rod magazines for 50 years.
Take care,
Bryan

Introducing: 3D Printing

We are excited to now offer extremely detailed SLA (Stereolithography) 3D printing services. Custom dash knobs, dome light trim, center caps, crests and emblems… the possibilities are almost endless.

Builders, have you thought of creating a custom emblem that you can affix to each car that leaves your shop? We can do that!

Do you have a theme throughout your car, but haven’t been able to apply it to some small pieces like the A/C knobs? We can design and print one-off knobs that will match your theme perfectly. 

Do you have an idea for a shift knob that you’ve been wanting to use, but didn’t know how to proceed? We can help!

Is a piece of your rare interior trim broken, and you’ve been searching for years to replace it? We can have it 3D scanned locally, reassembled using computer software, and printed in one piece.

How It Works

Stereolithography (SLA) is an additive manufacturing – commonly referred to as 3D printing – technology that converts liquid materials into solid parts, layer by layer, by selectively curing them using a light source in a process called photopolymerization. SLA is widely used to create models, prototypes, patterns, and production parts for a range of industries from engineering and product design to manufacturing, dentistry, jewelry, model making, and education.

Custom projects get us really excited… if you have an idea for something that you think could be 3D printed, please get in touch. We have the capability to print with the following resins:

  • Standard
    • Clear: Stereolithography 3D printing technology makes clear prints possible on the desktop. Clear Resin is great for fluidics and moldmaking, optics, lighting, and any parts requiring translucency.
    • Grey, black, and white: With a matte surface finish, opaque appearance, and precise details, Black, White, and Grey Resins are ready to use right off the printer. Their neutral undertone also makes a great base for parts that will eventually be painted or undergo other finishing processes.
  • Tough: Balances strength and compliance, making it the ideal choice for prototyping strong, functional parts and assemblies that will undergo brief periods of stress or strain.
  • Flexible: Produce parts that bend and compress. Flexible is excellent for simulating soft-touch materials and adding ergonomic features to multi-material assemblies.
  • Heat resistant: High Temp Resin has a heat deflection temperature (HDT) of 289 °C @ 0.45 MPa—the highest on the 3D printing materials market. Use it to print models for environmental testing, or create molds and masters for production processes like casting and thermoforming.
  • Rigid: Reinforced with glass to offer very high stiffness and a polished finish. This material is highly resistant to deformation over time and is great for printing thin walls and features.
  • Durable: With low modulus, high elongation, and high impact strength, Durable Resin produces parts with a smooth, glossy finish and high resistance to deformation. Use this material for applications requiring minimal friction.
  • Castable: Designed to capture precise details and smooth surfaces. It burns out cleanly without ash or residue, allowing jewelers and casting houses to go straight from digital design to a 3D print suitable for direct investment casting.
  • Dental Model Resin: Designed for crown and bridge models with removable dies, Dental Model Resin is a high-precision, high-accuracy resin. Print crisp margins and contacts within ± 35 microns, and removable dies with consistently tight fit. A smooth, matte surface finish and color similar to gypsum make it easy to switch from analog to digital model production.

1956 International Pickup Mustang II

Grant Schwartz stopped in the other day to pick up a Mustang II crossmember, and I think he had it installed quicker than my kids can go through a jar of Elmira maple syrup.

Here are some pictures he took. To see more of Grant’s work, please visit and follow his Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/schwartz.inc

Use a support bearing for steering systems with more than 2 U joints.
Modified Welder Series pedal mount.
Welder Series Mustang II crossmember
#2115 transmission crossmember.
C005 engine mount kit.

Parts Used:

 
 

Dear Welder Series… 1949 International kb1 Mustang II

Dear Welder Series…
I have a 1949 international kb1. I would like to use coil springs and the mustang 2. I think it would take the 60 inch track. Is this correct? What would be the total cost shipped to Winnipeg? Do you offer welding of the basic member? Thanks

Dear Paul,
Paul, There are 2 frames for KB1’s, according to my info, 28” and 30” outside width. With either of these frames, I’d widen the frame outside dimension by adding tubing so the 60” kit has more frame surface to weld to. Read through the installation sheets here and I think you’ll see what I mean. (30” frame outside doesn’t give any surface on top of the frame for the upper tower to weld to in the 60″ kit.)

Here is a link to the web store page for the Mustang II:

There are other parts there that you might need, too, and some videos.

The 60-1/2” kit, welded, including freight and sales tax would total C$346.50.  (That’s Canadian Dollars…)

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts for your project.
Paul Horton

 

Dear Welder Series… coil over specs?

Dear Welder Series…
I just purchased a 1950 Chevy 3100 truck where the seller installed WS21906 in the front and WS318500 in the rear of the original frame. I was hoping you could suggested an affordable set of coil overs that would work with this setup. Unfortunately I have no idea as to what I should be looking for in terms of the stroke, lengths, dampening, etc.. Thank you.

Yuchol

Dear Yuchol…
Congratulations on your new project! These are great looking trucks.

I suggest blocking the truck at ride height to establish coil-over ride height.

If the upper mounts for the front shocks have been installed, the ride height for the coil-overs will be the center-to-center distance between the mounting holes on the lower arms and the brackets. If the frame plates have not been installed, click here for the manual…pages 2 and 13 will help.

If the rear crossmember has been installed to mount the top of the coil-overs, the truck’s ride height you have chosen with the mock-up will give you the coil-over ride height. If there isn’t yet a place to mount the top of the coil-over, please consider the crossmember

 

The coil-over mounting angle is discussed here. The coil-over ride height can be determined when you mock up the crossmember and mounting points.

Regarding the coil-over stroke, generally longer is better as it will offer more suspension travel. Other factors or interference points also come into play. Viking, RideTech and other North American companies make quality coil-overs.

I hope this helps with your decisions.
Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Thank you so much!

Yuchol

Dear Welder Series… thru frame tie rod end mount on the rear?

Dear Welder Series…
I have a question concerning your thru frame hair pin mounts. Have you ever seen them used on rear radius rods with a single front mount?

Dear Steve…
Hi, Steve.  I haven’t seen them used in that type of rear suspension.  But I believe our through-frame mount would be stronger than any other tie rod end mount.  The amount of support for the tapered stud, from the large area of the tapered stud to the button head is 2”, so actually wider than for any tapered hole bracket.

I hope this answers your question, but please expand on it if I missed your point.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton

Breakfast & Garage Crawl 2018

April 14, 2018

Wash down the Southern Ontario Winter blues with 2 eggs, home fries, and your choice of bacon, ham, or sausage… and get a peek into some of Canada’s finest hot rod shops.
Starting at Kypreos on Lancaster St W, then hopping to Schwartz Inc, Breslau (Welder Series, Webber Chassis, and Finishline), then to Hitman Hotrods in Cambridge.
Reserve your seat for breakfast by contacting Homer at 519-742-1070 or by email gbkays@gmail.com with “breakfast” in the subject.

Shop tour printable directions, ending at Schwartz Inc.
Shop tour printable directions, ending at Hitman Hotrods.

Here’s a map with all the locations:

D100 Build: A/C & Heater Hoses

I mounted the drier on the driver side inner fender, near the front. It’s tucked out of the way and offers an easy route for the -6 hose coming out of the condenser.
Doing the robot.
I don’t have any of the hoses tied together yet, but this will be the route they’ll take. Missing from this photo is the heater hose from the water pump.

 

II Much makes these handy anodized aluminum adapters to go from #10 heater hose to -10 EZ-Clip. I used a small section of rubber hose off the water pump, and then will use the Vintage Air reduced diameter hose to match the A/C hoses.
Check out the YouTube video on how to make the connections. It’s really, really easy!
The II Much bulkhead system is one of my favourite parts on this whole truck. I have one more hose to run, then I’ll be able to install the hose separators to really clean it up. It’s designed to fit the EZ Clip hoses, so you’ll have to decide whether you want to run normal heater hose from the water pump & intake up to the bulkhead, then use the adapters to switch to EZ Clip and go through the bulkhead, or run EZ Clip hose all the way from the evaporator to the engine. If you do the latter (my method), keep in mind that the heater control valve needs to be plumbed in the line coming from the intake, but the valve is designed to use normal heater hose. You’ll need to use an adapter before the control valve to convert from -10 to standard heater hose.
I thought there was going to be a fair bit of room under the dash! Get everything mounted that could possibly be an interference point. You can see the charge port on the -10 hose – check with the people who will be charging your system to see if they are ok with having one charge port inside the vehicle and one in the engine compartment.

Here’s a video showing the process of making a connection with the EZ-Clip system:

 

Dear Welder Series… What Steel Should I Use?

Dear Welder Series…
Hello,
I have a 1957 Chevy Pickup that I need to get running before another baby comes in June 2018. One of the things I need to do is put a new chassis under it. Someone did a Camaro front clip on it before I bought it, and after doing some research and talking to people about it, and taking multiple measurements, I do not feel confident in how the clip was done. I actually have a brand new (covered in dust) Mustang II kit from a local company in Ontario, California sitting in the shed, problem is I need new rails to attach it too.

What type of steel would you recommend for making new rails out of? I have read a lot of resources that say “mild steel” but I am looking for more specifics like A-36 plate or A1011 Grade XX pickled and oiled, or perhaps some other awesome stuff I don’t even know about.

I know it is probably a dumb question because in essence, helping me does nothing or very little for you. Regardless, I appreciate it and hope you will consider getting back to me.

Thank you,
David

Dear David…
Hi, David.
The tubing for this is called Hollow Structural Section (HSS tubing). Specific info is at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hollow_structural_section. 2×5, 1/8” or 3/16″ wall will work well.

We suggest a 60” track width for the ’57 Chev pickup. You might want to confirm that the kit you have is going to give you that track width. If the lower control arms are stock length, the crossmember pivot holes should be 26-1/4” center-to-center.
I hope this info helps. Thanks for thinking of Welder Series.
Paul Horton

Canadian Street Rodding Hall of Fame

Coming up in October of 2017 is the 23rd year of the Canadian Street Rodding Hall of Fame’s gala evening, and this year it’s on Saturday October 21st, 2017 BUT this year the location has definitely changed. The new location is the Cambridge Hotel and Conference Centre, 700 Hespeler Road, Cambridge, Ontario N3H 5L8 (click here for a map). We will meet and greet at 5:30 pm, with the meal and ceremonies beginning at 6:30 pm. Come and be a part of the induction of the 2017 inductee.

It will be a very relaxed evening this year in a new facility with proper visibility and sound and an open atmosphere. Last year we welcomed the Motor City Car Club as the first “club” to be inducted. This year’s inductee will be chosen from the nominations sent in by you. If you’ve not already sent in your nomination, please do so in the very near future. The deadline is May 1, 2017.

After the ceremonies there will be live entertainment and dancing for your enjoyment. A cash bar will be available and dress is business casual.

Custom Axle Brackets

We’ve always designed our brackets for 3″ axle tubes, but once in a while someone asks whether we can make them for other sizes. Here’s the process:

Brackets are laser cut with a slit along the bend line.
Grab an adjustable wrench and a square, then clamp and fold the ‘wings’. Remember – you’re only bending the little bridges at the end of the laser cut slits.
Weld up the corners, and you’ve got a set of custom axle brackets!

This can be done for any axle housing diameter, bushing width, or bar location relative to axle centerline.

We charged C$29/ea for the brackets, plus labour to weld them. Turnaround was a few days. Please get in touch if you have a special project that you think we can help with.

D100: Front brakes

There are a few directions we could have gone for brakes on the D100, but we decided to use our basic Mustang II caliper brackets and a replacement S10 caliper. They’re inexpensive, easy to find, and will serve our purpose well.

CPP has come out with calipers which have a 20% larger piston than the standard GM metric ones, and include pads for a very reasonable price. Here’s a link. They’re nicely powder coated black, and pretty sharp looking!

I put anti-seize on the threads, and Royal Purple assembly lube on the guide pin to help prevent friction.
Our #2125 Mustang II caliper bracket and CPP big bore GM metric caliper.

Rotors are standard Granada discs that you can buy from your local hot rod parts store. I got all these parts from Horton Hot Rod Parts in Milton, ON. I haven’t ran brake lines yet, so I’ll wait to run my flex lines. I’ll likely use a bulkhead fitting to go through the frame rail.

Here is the caliper bracket kit: