We’ve just designed a bracket to be used with the upper bushing on a stock Ford 8.8 rear end.
The triangulated design eliminates the Panhard bar, and the 8.8 rear end has been a common hot rod rear axle for a long time. This kit uses the 1-3/4″ wide bushings and 3/4-16 adjusters.
Available ready to weld and welded, except for the upper axle mounts. Check out our web store for more info.
Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul. Re your Mustang II Crossmember kit. Could I just buy the coilover and upper A arm adjustment box and cut my old shock/spring tower off? Could I retain my lower stock A arm set up and just shorten my existing upper A arms? I’m trying to salvage some of what I have and clean it up so it looks good. If I have to spend too much on making this work then I may just go for a Pete and Jake’s dropped front axle. Thanks, Ian.
Dear Ian…
Ian, all Welder Series parts are available individually because we want to be able to look after builders who have their own imagination at work.You will have to decide if you want to shorten the stock upper and lower arms. It feels like there could be clearance issues with them.
Consider getting the Model ‘A’ Mustang II kit (below) and using your existing stock parts to have the car rolling. ??
Let’s make a few comparisons here…
You abandon a perfectly fine bed too early in the morning, drink one too many cups of instant coffee on your way out the door, scrape your windshield and sit in a cold car, staring blankly at the windshield as the circle of vision slowly grows enough to navigate your way out the driveway. You make it to the show to idle in line with everyone else who left their warm beds behind, only now you wish you were at home so you could use the bathroom. The parking lot guy directs you to the far corner of the frozen lot, where you forget your wallet as soon as you step into the lobby. Wallet reclaimed, you can now start checking out some cars.
You wake up to the sound of a percolator purring away from down the hall. Do I even have a percolator? No matter, it’s purring and you’re going to have fresh coffee. After your second cup, you strut to the bathroom just because you can. You’re home. Snow is falling outside, and you ponder that sentence… keywords: snow, outside. You faintly see your neighbor huddled in his car, staring at the windshield, and you wonder what on God’s white Michigan he’s doing outside. You briefly consider dressing, but on a Saturday, you don’t want to give anyone the impression that you are here to do anything that requires clothing. Today is a day for comfort. Today, you will sit. Today, you will look at car show pictures on the Internet.
It’s a little bit crazy how many pictures there are to browse. www.hotrodhotline.com alone has a few dozen million. I think. You can see pictures from a show in Arizona, then jump over to Cobo Hall, then go to the washroom, then check out some cars in Eastern Canada. Granted, there are a few things missing from the online experience… namely smell, touch, taste, and feeling. It’s getting better though- there are lots of car show videos available online too. If you can’t make it in person, make it not in person. That’s what I always say. That’s what the Internet is for, isn’t it?
Congrats, Jonathan!
Jonathan sent in some pictures of his Welder Series sway bar install during February, and was chosen by the random computational software at www.random.org as the winner.
There is $50 on your account here to be used against future purchases.
If you haven’t sent in pictures of our parts on your car, please email them through to pictures@welderseries.com. At the beginning of each month, I’ll draw from the last months submissions for the winner. If you weren’t chosen, you’ll be entered in the next months draw as well, so you have two chances to win.
Dear Welder Series…
I just purchased a 1966 Chevy C10 and want to upgrade the front end. I was wondering if your 60” Mustang II cross member would work?
I searched your archives but could not find where anyone had inquired about this in the past. I can’t believe I could be the first with so many folks restoring the 1960-1966 Chevy trucks. The best option thus far is to install a 1974-1987 front end but you do not get the rack and pinion steering setup.
Thanks for the help.
Danny
Dear Danny…
Danny, the Mustang II does not adapt easily to your truck series. Sorry, we don’t have a front end kit for you.Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Dear Welder Series…
Hi I’m building a custom frame I want to run a Mustang ll I like how you sell them and I plan on buying one from you my question is if running air springs and a 24 inch diameter wheel how high should the frame rails be from the ground and with 6 inches of ground clearance I want the rockers of the car to sit on the ground, like I said its custom so the frame rails can be placed anywhere. Also do you have a laser cutter or are you farming out your cuts, the reason I’m asking I have some custom shaped frame rail ideas and I like the idea of cutting and welding the shapes I want, would custom cuts be something you would be interested in doing for me? Thanks for any help and could I bother you for a catalog? I can’t see any of your products on the web site the pics are black or digital mess ..
Tom
Dear Tom…
Tom, the frame height should be mocked up once you have the wheels and tires you will use. Then our install sheets walk you through how to cut the crossmember and upper towers so the frame will be where you want it with weight on the tires.We work with a local laser cutter who understands what we are looking for in street rod products. We do custom work regularly and would be happy to quote on your drawings or sketches.
We’re working on the web store images… sorry for the inconvenience.
Dear Welder Series…
Hi there
I’m working on figuring out ride height and road clearance for my 51 Chevy if I use your MII set up and have a few questions, hoping you can assist.
1. For your MII front crossmember, what is the distance from the underside of the chevy frame to the bottom of the crossmember and what should a reasonable /safe clearance below the crossmember to the road be?
2. What is the distance from the spindle centerline to the underside of the crossmember. (assuming 2” drop spindle)
I am trying to determine from this what size wheel/tire size should be.
3. For the rear suspension, triangulated 4 link kit or individual pieces, can you please clarify the dimensions of your bars so I can figure out where they will attach to my frame?.
Your drawing indicates the lower bar should be 27-1/8 from the axle centerline but you list a 27-7/8 bar and then 23-1/8 bar and nothing in between.
Are dimensions nominally center to center on the bushings? Or center of bushing to edge of notch?
4. The upper bar should attach about 15 from the axle centerline according to your drawing so I want to see where that would end up mounting on the axle.
Can you clarify roughly what angle in plan view the upper bars are relative to the axle or roughly what length the upper bars are so I can figure out where they will sit and if that is similar to your drawing showing the bars 2-1/8 above the axle centerline?
Thanks very much for your assistance.!!
Steve
Dear Steve…
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts for your project, Steve.I suggest you choose the tire size that you feel is best for your project, rather than work from ground clearance up. Our crossmember can be notched to accommodate the ride height you want with the tire size you choose.
I’m going to duck the ground clearance question… This depends on the roads you travel as well as possible laws in your area. NSRA has a practical suggestion with their scrub line definition. This is defined at http://www.dmv.state.pa.us/
pdotforms/pub_45/appendix.pdf . Some areas say the line should be drawn from wheel rim to wheel rim and no suspension component should below that line.With a 2″ dropped spindle, it is 7-1/4″ from spindle c/l to the bottom of our crossmember.
The dimensions on the triangulated rear 4-link installation sheets are correct. The assumption is that you know where the axle centerline is but don’t know where our axle bracket locates the urethane bushing. The bar length is from the center of the urethane bushing tube to the threaded end of the bar. The adjuster is not included in this length. Add 1-3/4″ for the large bushing adjuster. Note that the lower bar for the triangulated kit is the 23-1/8″ bar. (The 27-7/8″ bar is 7/8″ diameter and is used in our universal rear Panhard kit and the hiboy front 4-link kit.)
The frame brackets for the upper bars will likely have to be trimmed to the angle suited to your frame width and rear axle.
Thanks for these questions. I hope this info, and the install sheets online help you.
Dear Welder Series…
Interested in your mustang II crossmember with coil overs. How much does the crossmember weigh and how wide is it outside to outside at the lower control arm mount? Thanks. Steve.
Dear Steve…
The 56″ crossmember kit (shown below) with the upper arm brackets and coil-over mounts weighs 32 lbs.The two crossmember pieces and the plates that run from the top of the crossmember to the inside of the frame weigh 19 lbs.
The lower control arm holes are on 22-1/4″ centers. If the center line is extended each way, the crossmember dimension is 25-5/16″.
I hope this helps.
Dear Welder Series…
Hi, I’m after a rear 4 link for my 65 mustang for general road use, no racing, do you have a setup similar to [the other guys] setups & if so prices & cost of shipping to California 90200, USA, unless you good rates to New Zealand, if you can help I’ll phone you.
thanks Rob.
Dear Rob…
Rob, Welder Series has a parallel and a triangulated rear 4-link. Both kits are “universal”, meaning they can be used in a wide range of applications, but they require modifications (mainly bar length) to use in your Mustang.Here are the kits:
The parallel kit will need a Panhard bar:
Freight cost to California would be 10% of the order total with a minimum charge of $15 and a maximum charge of $60.00. All of our prices are in Canadian Dollars. We can ship to New Zealand by Parcel Post and would quote a rate based on what you would like to order.
We are working hard at getting the website picture issues resolved.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
I want to make sure your MII brake kit will fit my spindle (Ford LTD, looks the same as Mustang II), can you supply dimensions for the spindle mounting points?
There may be others like me who prefer the Corvette suspension components to the Mustang II parts. Do you plan on doing something for us?
The problem is that I have a Twin I-Beam set up with no control arms....if I were to get your MII crossmember, how would I know what control arms, spindles, brake set-up, what size coilovers to get?
Just was curious if you had any pics of the part #248300 booster bracket with brake and clutch pedal kit.
Hello, I am looking for a complete IFS front end kit for my 1937 Dodge D5 Business Coupe.
I'm looking to do a 56" wide MII on a '64 Volvo PV 544.
