Author: DW

Dear Welder Series… Mustang II in a 1936 Chevy Pickup?

Dear Welder Series…
Can I make your Mustang II kit work on a 1936 Chevy pickup frame? Thanks.

Dear Mike…
Our 56″ kits would be the right size for your Chev pickup.

 

I hope we can help with your project.
Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… Mustang II installation questions

Dear Welder Series…
I recently came across your MII installation instructions, and I am really impressed. A great tool for a builder!

I have few questions; (The more I study it the more I have questions!)
1. Am I correct in saying that your instructions will only establish the desired ride height, if on assembly,  the lower control arm is positioned as you assumed it would be when you wrote the instructions? What position does the lower control arm need to be in? (The old method of placing a straight edge under the cross member and the control arm resting on it?)

2. I see on your web site you answer questions about maximum outside frame width to avoid frame notching to clear coil springs. You point out that the maximum varies depending on ride height… understood.
I am looking at installation of an MII in a 1934 Chrysler which will need the frame narrowed considerably because it “flares” out to 36 inches- outside width (the existing frame runs to the outside of the existing coils spring.) I am looking at narrowing the “flare” to 29-1/2” (outside) to match the existing frame dimension on the firewall side of the “flare”. I would like to narrow the frame sufficiently to avoid any frame notching for spring clearance. I am not building the car to be super low… a car that will allow me to roll a floor jack under the cross member.
Will 29-1/2” be a fairly safe number to avoid frame notching for MII coil springs on a 56”or 58” system?

3. If the frame dimensions and the cross member dimensions are such that the cross member gets welded to the underside of the frame and the OUTSIDE of the frame, doesn’t the section of the cross member outside the frame interfere with the springs?

4. I see you recommend longer tie rod ends for the 58” system. Does this not create bump steer because it changes the relationship of the hinge points of the control arms relative to the tie rod hinge point?

5. The Internet tells me that the tubular lower A arms are failing where they extend to the rear of the cross member. Do you have experience with this issue?

Thanks in advance for your help.
Keith

Dear Keith…
Keith, what a great list of questions.
1. At ride height, the Mustang II suspension is designed to have the stock spindle 3-1/2″ higher than the lower arm pivot bolt center. This is the dimension used in our crossmember and tower design. Dropped spindles would be 5-1/2″ higher than the pivot bolt center and this is referenced in the instructions.

2. 29-1/2″ will be fine for either the 56″ or 58″ kits.

3. The 56″ crossmember is 30″ outside the “wings”. The spring almost always clears the crossmember wings, even when they are on the outside of the frame. We used to taper the outer edge of the wings up and in towards the frame more for cosmetics than clearance. Although the 58″ crossmember is wider than the 56″ (32″ vs 30″), the upper towers mount 2″ farther apart when the 58″ crossmember is used so the clearance stays the same.

4. The geometry does change, but in the “real world” the bump steer is not noticeable. I try very hard to steer clear of discussions about this because the difference MIGHT be noticed by Tony Stewart, but not by me. Rack extensions are the correct way to go.

5. I have read about this on the internet but have no personal or business experience with this issue. I do believe the people who say they had a problem, did have the problem. I have tubular lowers on our ’40 Ford with about 50,000 miles on them over all types of roads.

Thanks very much for your questions. I hope we can help with your project.
Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… front shock mounts?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi I bought a tube front axle for my model a street rod and it has welded on hair pin brackets but nothing to mount a shock. Do you sell a lower bracket that welds to or bolts to axle or hair pin mounts for shocks? thank you

Dear Leonard…
There are a couple of ways you could mount shocks to the tube axle…

Go to our web site, http://welderseries.com, and type “threaded tube” in the search box. This will bring up a lot of threaded tubes and some parts that are related to them. A threaded tube, with the appropriate thread size, could be welded to your axle as the lower shock mount.

Another way would be to use the sway bar mount,

Sway Bar Mount
Sway Bar Mount

welded to the axle. (It doesn’t know it’s a sway bar mount and will be quite happy known as a shock mount on your rod.)

There are several other brackets in our store that could also be “shock mounts”, with some imagineering.

If you would rather mount the shock to the hairpin, please reply with the diameter of the lower shock eye and the bushing hole size. I’ll think about brackets that would work with that.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… 1952 Chevy pickup Mustang II kit?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi there. Just now found you guys on the web. I am garage building a 52 Chevy pickup. I’m interested in picking up your IFS set up and a good 4 link for the rear. I have the body of mine stripped off the chassis and am getting ready to send it to be blasted and have the chassis boxed. Can your IFS be bolted or welded in with the frame boxed or should I have your parts put in and then box it? Does your IFS kit come with the motor mounts as well or are they separate? I could also use a trans crossmember as well. I’m going with a 454cid and a 700R4.

Dear Zane…
Our Mustang II kit welds into a boxed frame, so you can go ahead with that. If you followed the instructions online, be aware that it will almost certainly be necessary to trim the top of the frame rail for upper arm cross shaft clearance. This can be done after boxing.

We have 2 types of motor mounts for your 454:

 

These would have to be trimmed to fit your frame (the way the boxing plates are installed will affect the frame width) and to put the engine at the height you want.

I’d suggest transmission crossmember 2115:

Transmission Mount Saddle Kit
Transmission Mount Saddle Kit

This adds strength to the frame and lets you drop the saddle without removing the exhaust.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Paul Horton

Custom Multi-Angle Adjusters

We recently had a visit from a Welder Series regular, Grant Schwartz of Schwartz Welding (click here for his Facebook page). You’ve probably heard me talk about Grant before- he knows our product line almost as well as I do and he makes very good use of it!

This time, Grant was hunting for a way to create a multi angle adjuster that was cost-effective, strong, and not as long as his previous version (which utilized a clevis).

Here is what he came up with, along with the parts he used.

Click on the pictures to go to that item in our web store.

Adjuster stud.
Flatten the notch, or cut off the large diameter portion of the stud.

Adjuster stud, 5/8-18 & 3/4-16
Adjuster stud, 5/8-18 & 3/4-16

Clamp bar for front spring perch kit.
This piece is good for two adjusters. Cut next to each hole and weld to the end of the adjuster stud. Drill holes to 7/16″.

Spring Mount Clamp Bar
Spring Mount Clamp Bar

Multi angle adjuster tab.

Tab; 1" wide with 7/16" hole
Tab; 1" wide with 7/16" hole

Urethane bushing outer sleeve

Urethane Bushing Outer Tube
Urethane Bushing Outer Tube

Urethane bushing kit (includes two bushing halves and an inner sleeve)

Urethane Bushing Kits
Urethane Bushing Kits

So, what’s the bottom line? Adding the pieces up, including the urethane bushings, two multi-angle adjusters would cost $64.50. I calculated the price for two because you can’t buy half of #21273 (the part that welds to the adjuster stud). You’ll also need a couple bolts and nuts. Clicking on the pictures will take you to that item on our web store. We keep these pieces in stock. What would you use a multi-angle adjuster for? Diagonal locators, control arms… anything where changing the length of the bar would also change the angle of the adjuster.

Thanks for the pictures, Grant!

Dear Welder Series… 1951 Chev truck rear suspension?

Dear Welder Series…
I have a 1951 Chevrolet truck 1/2 ton putting a 2002 Chevy S10 4×4 Blazer 8.5 ring gear rear w/disc brakes in. I want to use the 4 link system, which one of yours will work easiest and best?

Thank you!

Dear Don…
Don, the decision regarding a parallel or a triangulated rear 4-link is somewhat philosophical. Here is my explanation:

Both kits do a good job of locating the rear end, holding it in place, and letting the suspension work.

The triangulated kit costs less than the parallel kit because a Panhard bar is not required.

Parallel Rear Four Link Kit
Parallel Rear Four Link Kit
 
Triangulated Rear Four Link Kit
Triangulated Rear Four Link Kit

The parallel kit does require a Panhard kit (about $100.00). The parallel kit is easier to adjust for squaring the rear axle to the frame center line, and centering the frame left-to-right.

The Panhard bar does move the frame left-to-right as the frame goes up and down, but if a straight Panhard bar is installed level, this amount is insignificant (about 1/8″ with a 19″ bar) for normal suspension travel.

Universal Panhard Kit, Rear
Universal Panhard Kit, Rear

I hope this helps you decide. Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Early Pinto vs. Mustang II Spindle Differences

A customer stopped in yesterday carrying a spindle. In itself, I recognize that this sentence requires an explanation. He was curious as to the origin of said spindle… was it early Mustang? Pinto? Mustang II? It certainly looked like a Mustang II spindle, but he just wanted to double check. We have a pair of spindles which we use for a caliper bracket fixture, so we brought them out for a little compar-o. Here are the differences:

 

The spindle on the left (the clean one) is a 1974-78 Mustang II spindle. On the right is the spindle that was brought in to compare; it’s from a 1971-73 Pinto. Between the ball joint holes (vertically, inside-to-inside) on the Pinto spindle is 5-1/16″ while the Mustang II is 5-7/8″. Also, the steering arm hole center to the lower ball joint center dimension is 4-1/2″ on the Pinto spindle but 5″ on the MII. The lower caliper bracket hole is in a different location as well.

So, on first glance, they look quite similar. However, you now have the ammo required for those late night “tech sessions” so when your buddy tells you the difference between the fabric smell on the early Corvair versus the last production run, you’ll be able to counter with this useful information on the differences between 71-73 Pinto and Mustang II spindles.

Dear Welder Series… Triangulated four link upper bar angle?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul I am in the middle of installing one of your triangulated four links. How much angle do I need on the upper part. (angle from frame rail to rear housing if looking from top). If I have to shorten the upper bars what would you suggest the min. length be? Thanks

Triangulated Rear Four Link Kit
Triangulated Rear Four Link Kit

Dear Derek…
Derek, the upper bar frame bracket is designed to mount the bar at 27 degrees off of the frame. It might be hard to reduce this angle very much and still put a wrench on the nut, if the nut will even go on. Another option might be to mount the axle end of the upper bars just inside the frame rails and angle them towards the frame centerline. Then add a new crossmember and mount the frame brackets to it. This way the bars can stay at their original length. As the bars get shorter, the pinion angle changes more dramatically as the suspension works. I hope this helps.
Paul

Dear Welder Series… modify headlight stands?

Dear Welder Series…
DW,
I’ve just been reading your ’32 Build blog regarding modification to the Pete & Jake headlight stands (article 21). Nice work.

This year I acquired a nice ’32 highboy that has those same stands with little hot rod lights (the one with the turn signal in the top edge of the bezel).
I’d like to install ’32 passenger or 33-34 commercial lights with internal turn signal. I’d prefer to not cut and weld as in your article, but I recognize that is probably the correct way to approach the project.
My question; is there a realistic way to modify the swivel/bolt/slot arrangement on the bottom of the light bucket, to use the headlight stands without modification – and still be able to drive at night?
One additional piece, the chassis and stands are powder coated.

Thanks for taking the time to consider my question.
Phil

Dear Phil…
Thanks for the compliment, Phil.
Here are 2 suggestions for mounting the headlights:
Form a “tongue” to take the stock headlight bolt. Wrap the tongue forward to the shock mount. Weld a bolt (probably a flat head allen bolt) to the shock mount end of the tongue to go through the P&J mount.
or…
Have a talented tin-whacker rework the headlight bucket so the mounting bolt will be at the correct angle. If you use the ’32 lights, the reworked area could be polished to not show. The ’33 commercial lights might be easier.
I’ve cc’d this to DW. He might have some other ideas.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Paul,

I really appreciated your “tongue” suggestion and set it as my fallback if I could not get the lights attached properly to the existing headlight stands.
The installation is complete, here is what I did. I selected the ’34 commercial lights that Bob Drake offers with a stainless bucket in addition to the stainless bezel. I found that the headlight stands were tipped slightly forward, a good thing.
I disassembled the lights and moved the plate that holds the mounting bolt so the leading edge (somewhat reshaped) would be very close to the edge of the bucket. I drilled new holes in the plate and remounted it. This has the effect of rotating the top of the bucket forward.
Now, without modification to the bolt or the swivel the face of the bucket can be adjusted beyond vertical a few degrees. I think this will work out (I’ve not driven it at night yet) and I like the look. The first photo above is with one old light and one new light, the other photo is the job completed.
Thanks to all for your encouragement.
Happy New Year,
Phil

Dear Welder Series… 1989 Chevy drag truck four link?

Dear Welder Series…
I am building a 1989 Chevy c1500 street/drag. I am wanting to go with a narrower rear end and do a 4-link set up. I was wondering what 4 link set  up would you recommend for me.

Dear Jon…
Our pro/street rear 4-link can be set up so the bars are parallel for street driving or they can be adjusted to get the instant center that you want for racing. The kit comes with urethane bushed bars. Serious racers use these on the street but change them to rod ends for the track.

Four Link Kit - Pro Street
Four Link Kit - Pro Street

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts for your project.

Dear Welder Series… 1952 Pontiac four link question

Dear Welder Series…
Hello, I’m looking to purchase your triangulated 4 link for my 52 Pontiac. I will need to install the coil overs in front of the axle, do you have an axle mount to accomplish this?
Thanks.

Dear Joe…
Joe, if there is room, you could use the coil-over bracket shown here:

Let me know if you feel this will, or won’t, work in your application.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… Gift Certificate?

Dear Welder Series…
How would I get a gift card for someone?

Dear Nancy…
Thanks for asking, Nancy. We can run your card for any amount you like and apply that amount to your friend’s account. You can also use PayPal. We would send a gift certificate to you as a pdf or we can mail it. They are also available on our web store:

Our toll-free number is 1-888-648-2150 if you want to talk about this or give us your card number over the phone.

Dear Welder Series… 1937 Stude MII?

Dear Welder Series…
We are building a 1937 Studebaker 2dr president coupe. I’m helping my dad build and am talking him into the mustang front suspension. I talked to a friend of mine at air ride tech and he pointed me in your direction. We are dropping an lt1 and auto in it. Going for an comfy driver with a nice stance. Please let me know if any if your front suspension will work. I’m gonna get some frame dimensions measured up and I will look more into your site.

Dear Jason…
Jason, our kit is easy to fit to lots of frames. Decide what track width you want to use and if you want to use stock-style springs and shocks of coil-overs with an eye mount top and bottom. If you are looking at conventional air springs, use this:

If you want ShockWaves, use this

We also have mounts for LS series engines (listed below) and they are easy to adapt to most frames.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts. Please get in touch again if you have other questions.