Tag: triangulated

Dear Welder Series… triangulated four bar bar lengths?

Dear Welder Series…
How can you calculate the length of the upper and lower bars so to know that your rear four link will work effectively ? I have a 1956 chevy bel air will use coilovers!

Dear Ken…
Ken, a triangulated rear 4-link is fairly forgiving if you need to change bar dimensions a bit. Our standard bar lengths will work well in your Chev.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… triangulated four link for an NG?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi there, My name is Rob and I live in Holland (Europe) I saw your Triangulated Four Link Kit and I am very interested. You see I have an NG chassis which had the dimensions of an MGB, and I was wondering if I could use this kit (maybe with some extra accessories) to fit my car, so I can get rid of the leaf, feather springs. Could you advise me please?

Best Regards,

Rob

Dear Rob…
Rob, the triangulated kit should work well. Because I feel that your frame is narrow, you might want to mount the upper bars on the axle just inside the frame rails and angle them forward and towards the centerline of the frame. This will give more support angle than mounting them close to the rear axle center section and angling forward and out to the inside of the frame. Check the installation drawings on our web store to see if there are “ambushes” waiting for you.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts for your project.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… 1951 Chev truck rear suspension?

Dear Welder Series…
I have a 1951 Chevrolet truck 1/2 ton putting a 2002 Chevy S10 4×4 Blazer 8.5 ring gear rear w/disc brakes in. I want to use the 4 link system, which one of yours will work easiest and best?

Thank you!

Dear Don…
Don, the decision regarding a parallel or a triangulated rear 4-link is somewhat philosophical. Here is my explanation:

Both kits do a good job of locating the rear end, holding it in place, and letting the suspension work.

The triangulated kit costs less than the parallel kit because a Panhard bar is not required.

 

The parallel kit does require a Panhard kit (about $100.00). The parallel kit is easier to adjust for squaring the rear axle to the frame center line, and centering the frame left-to-right.

The Panhard bar does move the frame left-to-right as the frame goes up and down, but if a straight Panhard bar is installed level, this amount is insignificant (about 1/8″ with a 19″ bar) for normal suspension travel.

I hope this helps you decide. Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… parallel vs. triangulated four link

Dear Welder Series…
I have a 1951 Chevrolet truck 1/2 ton putting a 2002 Chevy S10 4×4 Blazer 8.5 ring gear rear w/disc brakes in. I want to use the 4 link system, which one of yours will work easiest and best?

Thank you!

Dear Don…
Don, the decision regarding a parallel or a triangulated rear 4-link (both shown below) is somewhat philosophical. Here is my explanation:

Both kits do a good job of locating the rear end, holding it in place, and letting the suspension work.

The triangulated kit costs less than the parallel kit because a Panhard bar is not required.

The parallel kit does require a Panhard kit (about $100.00). The parallel kit is easier to adjust for squaring the rear axle to the frame center line, and centering the frame left-to-right.

The Panhard bar does move the frame left-to-right as the frame goes up and down, but if a straight Panhard bar is installed level, this amount is insignificant (about 1/8″ with a 19″ bar) for normal suspension travel.

 

I hope this helps you decide. Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Paul Horton