Tag: dear welder series

Paul Horton’s replies to tech emails.

Dear Welder Series… 1962 Studebaker Lark Mustang II

Dear Welder Series…

Good day aye,

I would like to purchase your cross member for my 1962 Studebaker Lark station wagon. Running into issues with frame measurements. The “Z” mark is running through the shock tower preventing me from getting accurate measurements. Also, the frame goes in and out, up and down around the “Z” mark. Checking to see if you have run across this before I start cutting out the cross member and shock towers. Attaching a few pics. If you need more or have any questions, please let me know.  The “4” mark is 4 inches behind “Z”. “Z” mark starts at crossmember.

Dear Dan…
Good morning, Dan.

I only see one picture, but from your description, it sounds like you will need to make a new front frame clip using 4x2x.125 wall HSS tubing. Check the pictures at https://welderseries.ecwid.com/Mustang-II-Crossmember-Kit-for-Coil-Springs-p51209443 and https://welderseries.ecwid.com/Mustang-II-Crossmember-Kit-for-Coil-Overs-Shockwaves-p51209593 and read the info in the Product Details and inthe links in those sections.
This is not an easy swap but a Welder Series’ Mustang II was designed to be used in applications like yours. Probably the 56-1/2” track width will be right.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series’ parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…

Thanks for the reply Paul,

Ordered my 2×4 tubing. I have a question though. You state that the 56 ½ kit likes outside frame dimensions of 26-30 inches. My frame rails will be about 30 ½. Is this going to cause a problem?

Dear Dan…
Dan, that should be fine.

I’ve attached cut line drawings. This “assumes” 2×4 rails, parallel to each other and level. The bottom of the frame would be at the same height as a stock Mustang II spindle. The front would be 2” lower with dropped spindles but the cut lines would be the same.
Drawing 1 is not attached because it laid out the rails and that’s info you gave me.
I hope this helps you see the installation more clearly.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Have a quick question for you. I ordered 5/8″ shorter control arms for my project. After receiving them I realized that the 5/8″ difference was not going to allow enough clearance for the Shock Wave air bags. So, planning on switching to coil over’s for now. My question is, Can I still mount the coil over plates at TF/TR and then use spacers for the Shock Wave Coil overs? ( Just incase I ever switch control arms to use Shock Wave air bags).

Dear Dan…
Dan, you can do this.

It might help to order our ShockWave upper mounting kit, https://welderseries.ecwid.com/ShockWave-upper-mounting-kit-p466997276 .
Paul

Dear Welder Series… Mustang II cut line help (2×4 frame)

Dear Welder Series…
Paul,

Kevin here, sorry I missed your call earlier. As I said previously, I’m doing a custom front end using your mustang ii crossmember kit for coil springs. I am using 2×4 channel for the main frame rail and am looking for either the cut diagram, or just the dimensions I need to trim both the cross member and the shock tower mounts. To give you an idea, I will be doing something that looks a lot like the build linked below. I am available in the morning Monday and Tuesday next week if it would be easier to discuss on the phone.

October Photo Sharing Winner

Kevin

Dear Kevin…

I think this is what you want. If you want to talk about it, please send me another email and I’ll call you.

Thanks for using Welder Series’ parts.
Paul

MII CUT LINES CUSTOM 4X2 FRAME 56 kit

Dear Welder Series…
I do believe that is what I need. Thank you very much. Based on the drawings, does the bottom of the tower bracket line up with the notch on the inside of the crossmember?

Dear Kevin…
Yes, it does, Kevin. And, that’s also where the stock spindle will be with all the weight on the front end. (Ride height)

Paul

Dear Welder Series…
Paul,

I accidentally gave you the wrong dimension for the frame. It’s 2×3, not 2×4. I should just add back an inch on the upper tower cutout to make it line up with the notch and it should be good, correct?

Kevin

Dear Kevin…
Kevin, you are correct. On the towers, use 3” instead of 4”.

Paul

Mustang II crossmember excess material

Dear Welder Series… trimming excess off crossmember

Dear Welder Series…
Hi DW I’m pleased to say I have the main section of my mustang 2 kit installed in my frame rails, the instructions were clear as a bell and it is a beautiful piece of work. I was just curious if it is recommended to remove any excess metal on the outer edges of the crossmember or not to give it a cleaner look. I’ve attached a picture to show you what I plan to remove. Thanks again and hope to hear back soon.

Anthony

Mustang II crossmember excess material

Dear Anthony…
You can trim the area indicated. But it feels like there’s another problem coming regarding the towers. It looks like the frame is too narrow to attach them. Have you got past this issue or should we talk? Please call 888-648-2150 if you want to discuss it. Leave a message and I get back to you.
Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Oh thanks Paul. I did end up getting everything mounted onto the frame and all the measurements checked out so here’s an attached picture with the lower crossmembers and the upper control arms mounts all tacked in place. If this doesn’t look right let me know.

Dear Anthony…
Anthony, it’s hard for me to get a perspective on the tower and crossmember but maybe this sketch will help.
The front upper-inner corner of the tower should be very close to 9-3/4” higher than the lower pivot hole center. The rear should be very close to 9-1/4”.
The vertical edge of the tower should be 1-7/8” inches out from the lower arm hole.
I hope that helps.

Paul

Dear Welder Series… Triangulated 4 bar with Buggy Spring?

Dear Welder Series…
I am currently building a model a coupe and working on the rear suspension. I have a couple of questions. I’m going to use a buggy spring and was planning on using a 40 Ford wish bone but I’m having my doubts as to weather it will hold up under the power of a nailhead. My questions are can I run a triangulated 4 bar with the buggy spring? I’m also leaning towards ladder bars. Can these be modified and scrap the clevis fittings on the rear mount in favor of urethane on all the joints or would it make it too stiff of a ride.
Thanks for any help,
Kevin

Dear Kevin…
Sounds like a neat project, Kevin. The triangulated rear 4-link can be used with the buggy spring if the spring is mounted behind the housing. If the spring is on top, it might interfere with the upper bar brackets.

If you decide to use the ladder bars, it will be much easier to stay with the clevises. The front-mounted urethane bushings isolate the whole assembly, so the ride will be pretty much equal.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… MII for Datsun 521?

Dear Welder Series…
Hello, I was looking at your Mustang II crossmember kit. I’d like to get one for my Datsun 521. I was wondering if you would be able to decrease the width of the crossmember sections by 3” to accommodate the more narrow track width of my truck. I guess I could section it myself but that wouldn’t look as clean. The suspension parts aren’t readily available for my truck so I’d like to use this setup.
Thanks,
John

Dear John…
Hi, John.

We can make special width crossmembers, but…
The actual track width might not turn out to be what you hoped for. The brake kit used can move the wheel in or out from where the stock Mustang II was. You might also find that narrow control arms can be used that will reduce the track width and give more clearance in the engine room for exhaust and steering, even if you will use the stock engine.
Our website has some Mustang II dimensions at http://welderseries.com/tech/tech-sharing/ifs-make-your-own/. These dims will give a track width of 56-1/2” when stock 1974-78 Mustang II rotors and control arms are used. Narrowing the dimensions, top and bottom, will bring the wheels closer together by that amount. Shorter control arms will do the same. The brakes used might move the wheels in or out. We have info about our brake kits at:
If you use 4-bolt MII rotors, there should be no change.
My suggestion is:
Get everything you need except the crossmember kit, springs, shocks, and the steering rack. (Wheels & tires, brakes, spindles, and control arms)  A custom rack will have to be ordered after the width has been determined. Springs and shocks can come after that.
Remove the stock front suspension.
Block the truck at ride height.
Mock up the wheels & tires, rotors, spindles and lower control arms.
Position the tires in the fender. The tires should be very close the vertical.
Block the lower control arms at horizontal.
Measure the lower control arm mounting hole center-to-center.
Subtract that dimension from 22-1/4”. This is the amount to remove from the crossmember.
Buy our 56-1/2” kit and remove that amount from between the rack mounts.
The rack will have to be shortened the same amount.
Before doing much more, check the cost of this to be sure you are comfortable with it.
I hope this helps with this part of the project.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Paul,

Thank you for all the information and help. I figured that the control arms would have to be shortened as well. I saw a couple of your customers vehicles who did the same thing. Have a Happy New Year.
Johnathon

Dear Welder Series… why are there three holes on the axle brackets?

Dear Welder Series…

Hey DW
Hope all is well sir and you are having a good year so far.
A question came up in our shop this weekend and I am wondering if you could let me know the correct answer when time permits please!

The axle brackets on your parallel 4 link kits- the 3 holes on the rear for shock mounts- are the 3 holes used for initial ride height setup ONLY, or are they options to be used for future ride hide adjustments??

Great debate here on whether they are meant to be used adjusting the ride height whenever you want or if they are meant to be a ‘one time’ use during the chassis build.

Could you let me know the official response please? (I have a $100 wager on this)

Regards,
John

Dear John…

Hi, John.

DW suggested we give you the answer you want for a cut of the action… (Just kidding…)

My “official” answer is: Nobody loses this bet.

Usually the 3 holes are used as a lower mounting point for coil-overs or ShockWaves. They can be used as shock mounts when conventional air bags are used, but my first thought is for coil-over suspension. That’s the basis for my answer.

Coil-overs and ShockWaves have a “designed ride height”. http://welderseries.com/tech/tech-sharing/coil-over-mounting-offset/. We feel a custom vehicle should be built with the suspension at ride height. http://welderseries.com/Right-Height-Vehicle-Set-Up-Tool-p83035424. Physical constraints might dictate the (ideal) location for the upper coil-over mount. The 3 axle bracket holes will give some flexibility to the upper mounting hole location, since the (fixed) coil-over ride height is important to the vehicle ride height. So the wager winner is the initial ride height setup only… maybe…

The 3 holes allow for future adjustments that might involve different coil-overs, different wheel/tire combinations, or a different “look” desired for display at a car show. I have moved the lower coil-over up a hole when going on a vacation trip with a “kitchen sink” in the trunk. So the wager winner winner is the adjustable person… maybe…

I hope you two have a laugh over this and save your money for Welder Series parts.

Thanks for writing. It’s been fun answering.
Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…

Thank you very much Mr. Horton

As always I appreciate your responses. (I will selectively edit parts of your response and attempt to cut you guys in as I might lose now)

Another question if I may- wouldn’t adjusting up or down a hole as you suggested at the bottom throw off your driveline angles? Or would the difference be minimal?

What brought this about is a wager on my Model A coupe- it rides a touch too high in the back & the wager was whether you can drop it a hole and not throw everything off. 

Thanks, John.

Dear John…
Raising or lowering the rear by 1” on a Model A will change the driveline angle by less than 1/2 of 1 degree. I’d consider this minimal and should not cause a problem… unless the driveline angle is already borderline. Lowering the rear could be offset by shimming the transmission mount.

Dear Welder Series…

Well sir I appreciate your insight very much regardless of the $100 I just lost haha

Thank you very much regardless

John.

Dear Welder Series…four bar bars – do they need jam nuts?

Dear Welder Series…
I have a couple questions about your 4 link kit. With the adjuster just on one end, wouldn’t it be best to just forget the jam nut? With a rubber boot to keep the dirt out, wouldn’t this let the bar “twist” and prevent binding? I’d have thought that the nut would work loose anyway as the adjuster attempted to loosen or tighten when you go over a bump with one wheel.

Also, I assume your adjusters and bars are a mild steel. How do I stop them from rusting after welding? Do you recommend plating? I would paint the bars etc but I’m unsure about the threaded portions.

Thanks
Miles

Dear Miles…
Hi, Miles. For street use, the bushings have enough elasticity to absorb the twist and not loosen the jam nuts. Even lubricated, it’s likely that the threads in the mild steel bars and adjuster studs would wear and either fail or have to be replaced periodically.

Thread the adjusters into the bars without the jam nuts to keep the threads clean, or just mask off the portion of the thread that will go into the bar.

Thanks for your interest in Welder Series parts.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… center section for 67-72 C10?

Dear Welder Series…
Any idea whether the center section will work with a 67-72 C10, and do any of the trans mounts fit a 4L80E?

Thanks,
Russ

Dear Russ…
Thanks for this note, Russell.  

Could you give me your frame’s outside and inside widths (driver’s side to passenger’s side) at the transmission insulator?  

…and the frame rail channel height at that point? (The actual frame size, not the height from the ground.)

I’ll see how the center section looks in those dimensions and get back to you.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Thanks Paul,

I’ve got the following:

Outside frame rail width:  34-1/8″
Inside frame rail top:  29.5″
Inside frame rail bottom:  29″
Frame rail height:  6″

Dear Russ…
The center section will be snug but fine if the rails are boxed corner-to-corner off of the upper flange. If the plates are “step boxed” it will give extra space for a frame mounted booster.

This is based on how the curved lower tubes transition to the boxing plates.

I hope this info helps with your planning.

Paul

Dear Welder Series… 1976 Datsun 260Z Mustang II

Dear Welder Series… 
I’m customizing a 1976 Datsun 260Z for a client. It has an all aluminum Mustang Cobra 32V V8 up front and a narrowed 9″ triangulated 4 link setup in the rear. I want to put something like your Mustang II IFS kit on the front and get rid of the struts so that I can mount a wider torque thrust II wheel to match that back.

The frame rails have a lip that sticks out a little on the bottom facing out, and the width from that outside edge to outside edge is 32″. They are smooth on the inside.

Do you have something that will work for me? If you do, can you send me other dimensions so that I can measure up to make sure everything will fit under the original fenders?

Any help would be appreciated,

Thanks.

Brett

Dear Brett…
Our Mustang II coil spring kits are designed to be installed in almost any frame. What measurement do you want between the wheel mounting surfaces? (Where the wheels are against the rotors…)

What diameter tire will you use on the front?

With the frame at ride height, what is the distance from the ground to the bottom of the frame at the spindle location?

As above to the top of the frame?

With this info, I’ll be able to tell you about installation issues you might run into and suggest ways around them, if necessary.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Thanks for getting back to me.

There are a lot of questions there that I don’t have the answers to yet.

I’ve just finished the back end of the car, so let me measure the front up this weekend and I will get back to you.

Cheers,

Brett.

Dear Brett…
Thanks, Brett. I might be slower getting back to you for the next week or so… There will be days when I’m out of internet access. I’ll try not to keep you off the road too long…

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Here are those numbers!

What measurement do you want between the wheel mounting surfaces? 54″

What diameter tire will you use on the front? Don’t know yet, but to match the rear the center of the front spindle will need to be 12 3/8″ from the ground.

With the frame at ride height, what is the distance from the ground to the bottom of the frame at the spindle location? 11″

As above to the top of the frame? 14″

This car is pretty low, so if we need to go up or down a little, I would prefer to go up a little on the ride height. We have a tri-4-link with coil overs on the back so we can always adjust the back up or down to match whatever the front ends up being.

Cheers,

Brett.

To Be Continued…

Dear Welder Series… Mustang II control arm holes

Dear Welder Series…
On the coil over shock crossmember it shows a 1/2 hole for the lower a-arm, the lower a-arm pivot bushing on my lower a-arm requires a hole 1 3/8 hole. Is that going to work on this crossmember??

Dear Len…
Len, the 1/2″ hole is stock Mustang II. Many aftermarket a-arms use a 5/8″ bolt and some spacers inside and on the back of the crossmember. Depending on the arrangement of your spacer(s) and bolts, the 1/2″ holes might only have to be drilled for the 5/8″ bolt. If the spacer is 1 piece (on the driver and passenger sides), it can either be cut in 2 to put one section between the front and rear crossmember plates and the other piece on the rear side of the crossmember. Or the rear hole can be opened up to the spacer diameter and leave the spacer as 1 piece.

I hope this answers your question.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… 35-40 Rear Boxing Plates?

Dear Welder Series…
Do you have any frame repair kits for the rear wheel area for a 39 Ford stock chassis for restoration.
Mainly need the area at the axel hump behind the rear wheel

Bill

Dear Bill…
Bill, we have boxing plates for the rear half of the 1935 – 40 Ford frame. These might help to reinforce the stock rails, if they are still part of the frame. http://welderseries.com/Boxing-Plates-1935-40-Ford-p50906470 shows the whole kit (front and rear halves), but the rear plates can be purchased on their own. Part #354002, $50.00 each.

Do you think  this would fix the problem?

Paul

Dear Welder Series… custom transmission mount

Dear Welder Series…
Paul and Dorothy,
Ordered some parts from you all a couple of weeks ago to make a trans mount for a 1990 corvette trans that I am putting in my 56 Chevy pickup. Paul even call the day after I ordered to make sure I ordered the correct parts. Thanks, I appreciate that. Paul said send some pics when I got it made and on the truck so here it goes.
Dale

Dale cherry picked some brackets from other transmission mount kits and made his own. He used our 350 adapter plate, a shock mount plate, and a little tab that normally welds into the adapter plate, but he only used one side of it. You’ll understand when you see the pictures.

This is one of the reasons Welder Series is here. Thanks for being creative, Dale.

DW Horton

Dear Welder Series… 1953 Ford parts list?

Dear Welder Series…
I am looking for help with my 1953 Ford build.
I have purchased a 1993 LS1 motor, a 700 trans and a 12 bolt rear end I am trying to fit in the truck. The wheels I will be running are 30″ on the outside, 10 3/4″ wide with a 6 7/8 offset from the back of the rim. My goal is to set the bumpers and running boards on the ground with a full air ride. Is there a chance you could specify what I will need to purchase from your catalog to get all my frame welding going? As it stands right know I have pulled all the suspension out of the truck and it is just sitting on the frame now. Would love to order everything for Christmas. Thank you for your time and please feel free to call with any other questions you might have.
Keith

Dear Keith…
Keith, here are some links to kits for this build:
Choose a 60″ track width kit for your F100.
If you will use conventional air springs:


If you plan to use ShockWaves:

If you will use a power rack from a 79-92 T-Bird, order the relocation kit:

There are several different LS engine mount kits.  They are shown at

For your 700 R4 transmission, here are 2 options:
A simple crosmember and drop-out saddle (check out the “welded” version):

Or a tubular center section (with the 700R4 trans mount option):

For either of the above, use transmission mount insulator

If your 12 bolt rear end has the ears for the triangulated GM links, you could use our rear kit:

We would add brackets if you will use conventional air springs.

 

The crossmember shown below can be used to mount the upper end of the ShockWave (with 5/8″ hardware), or shocks with 7/16″ upper eyes.

If you plan to use a parallel rear 4-link, here are the kit pages:

For ShockWaves:


Use the rear crossmember with 5/8″ bolts.
With shockWaves on either the triangulated or the parallel kit, use the bolt kit here:

I hope this list helps.  Please write or call on our toll-free line, 1-888-648-2150, if you want more details.

Dear Welder Series… Mustang II coil over length question

Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul,
I recently bought a coil over MII kit from you. I see a recommended ride height for the coil overs, but how about extended and collapsed length, or shock travel length?

Thanks
Matt

Dear Matt…
Matt, we define a coil-over’s ride height as eye center to center compressed 1/3 of the stroke from fully extended. For example, a coil-over with an extended dimension of 13″ and a compressed dimension of 10″ would have a designed ride height of 12″. Similarly, a coil-over with an extended dimension of 14-1/2″ c-c and a compressed dimension of 10″ would have a designed ride height of 13″. A shock with 3″ of travel will be fine for a MII front end. Shocks with longer stroke have the potential for a better ride, but only if the chassis is built so nothing tops or bottoms out with the extra travel.

I hope this helps with your selection.

Paul Horton