Category: dear welder series

Paul Horton’s replies to actual tech emails.

Dear Welder Series… 35-40 Rear Boxing Plates?

Dear Welder Series…
Do you have any frame repair kits for the rear wheel area for a 39 Ford stock chassis for restoration.
Mainly need the area at the axel hump behind the rear wheel

Bill

Dear Bill…
Bill, we have boxing plates for the rear half of the 1935 – 40 Ford frame. These might help to reinforce the stock rails, if they are still part of the frame. http://welderseries.com/Boxing-Plates-1935-40-Ford-p50906470 shows the whole kit (front and rear halves), but the rear plates can be purchased on their own. Part #354002, $50.00 each.

Do you think  this would fix the problem?

Paul

Dear Welder Series… triangulated four link for an NG?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi there, My name is Rob and I live in Holland (Europe) I saw your Triangulated Four Link Kit and I am very interested. You see I have an NG chassis which had the dimensions of an MGB, and I was wondering if I could use this kit (maybe with some extra accessories) to fit my car, so I can get rid of the leaf, feather springs. Could you advise me please?

Best Regards,

Rob

Dear Rob…
Rob, the triangulated kit should work well. Because I feel that your frame is narrow, you might want to mount the upper bars on the axle just inside the frame rails and angle them forward and towards the centerline of the frame. This will give more support angle than mounting them close to the rear axle center section and angling forward and out to the inside of the frame. Check the installation drawings on our web store to see if there are “ambushes” waiting for you.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts for your project.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… Transmission mount for ’56 F100?

Dear Welder Series…
I’m building a 1956 F100. Supercharged 5.4 with 4r100 trans. I have purchased your engine mounts, but I’m looking for a tranny mount that will work with the 4r100
Thanks

Andy

Dear Andy…
Andy, have a look at our 2115 trans mount and crossmember:


and the 205043 Ford adapter plate:

which use the insulator/rubber mount:

205041 has recently been modified (now #205043) so it will work with transmissions that have rubber mount hole centers from 5-5/16″ to 5-9/16″. All of this has to be filtered by you knowing that I am not at all familiar with this transmission, except by looking online.

Thanks for looking to Welder Series on this problem.

Dear Welder Series… custom transmission mount

Dear Welder Series…
Paul and Dorothy,
Ordered some parts from you all a couple of weeks ago to make a trans mount for a 1990 corvette trans that I am putting in my 56 Chevy pickup. Paul even call the day after I ordered to make sure I ordered the correct parts. Thanks, I appreciate that. Paul said send some pics when I got it made and on the truck so here it goes.
Dale

Dale cherry picked some brackets from other transmission mount kits and made his own. He used our 350 adapter plate, a shock mount plate, and a little tab that normally welds into the adapter plate, but he only used one side of it. You’ll understand when you see the pictures.

This is one of the reasons Welder Series is here. Thanks for being creative, Dale.

DW Horton

Dear Welder Series… Custom Bars?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi D.W.
I was wondering if the 21 1/4 inch bars would work on my chassis, I need them to be 21 1/2 inches long from C/C were they mount. (See) photo above, they would be 1 inch dia DOM

image

Or would I have to get custom made bars, talk too you soon

Dennis

Dear Dennis…
[update: the response to this tech question predated the (mostly) standardized 1-3/4″ wide bushings, so I removed the info to avoid confusion. We can build bars to your specs.]

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… SBC in a Stude?

Dear Welder Series…
I will be putting a chevy v8 350ci in my 1956 Studebaker very soon and will try to use the chevy mount and see if I can use the lower part of the mount and bolt it to the bracket that’s on the Studebaker frame to end up with a bolt on instead of a weld on mount system. What do you think? Has anyone done this?

Dear Dave…
Hi Dave, thanks for your note. I’m not familiar with the Studebaker engine mounts and I haven’t heard of anyone doing this. Maybe someone will see your question and have better information than I can provide?

dw

Dear Welder Series… Do You Make Your Own Stuff?

This isn’t really a Dear Welder Series post, but more of a “Dear Customer…” post.

Some events of late made me think about a few questions people may develop as they browse chassis brackets on the Internet. While I’m certainly not naive to think that there aren’t other companies making similar products, or even that they shouldn’t be, I do want to clarify a few things.

First, if you notice a picture on another site that looks uncannily like a picture of a product on our website, that’s a Welder Series picture. I’ve personally taken every product picture on the site, except the customer-submitted pictures. We keep an up to date list of reputable businesses selling Welder Series product here. If the site isn’t on the list, but they’re using our images, ask where the part comes from. A number of shops buy our products and sell or install them as such. There’s no shame in asking where the part comes from. If they can’t say it’s from Welder Series, but they’re using our image to (mis)represent the product, that doesn’t seem fair to me or you. There are some sites selling genuine Welder Series products, but there are some who aren’t but are still using our images.

Second, with a very small number of exceptions (I’ll list them below), every product sold on our website is a Welder Series product. What does that mean? It means the CAD drawings originated on our computer, the steel is to the best of our ability sourced from Canada or the USA, and it was welded in our shop. If I wouldn’t put it on my car, I won’t send it to you. It’s that simple. I’m pretty picky, too.
Here are the parts that are not manufactured by us:

Rod Ends.
Engine mount insulators
Transmission insulators.
Urethane bushing halves.
Hardware (including weld nuts, Nutserts, bolts, nuts, etc.)
Exhaust grommets.

Every tig weld that leaves here will look like this:

I don’t want to come off sounding like we’re the only place you can buy quality hot rod chassis parts. Of course there are a number of companies producing quality products. What irks me is when our photos are used to misrepresent the quality of another company’s product.

If you have any questions about our products, we’d like to hear from you.

Thanks very much for your time.
DW, Paul, and Dorothy Horton

Dear Welder Series… Mustang II for 1950 Studebaker?

Dear Welder Series…
What measurements or info is required so you might be able to tell me which mustang ll kit I would need to use in a 1950 Studebaker champion 2 dr coupe and a starlite coupe. Would a 1948 starlite use the same kit as the 50? thnx

Dear Roger…
Roger, there are two measurements to consider when selecting a Welder Series Mustang II kit:  the track width that you want and the outside frame width in the crossmember area.
Track width is the rotor wheel mounting surface to surface dimension. Welder Series makes 3 widths: stock (56″), and 2″ and 4″ wider (58″ & 60″). These are nominal dimensions. With stock, 4-bolt MII rotors the actual track width would be 1/2″ wider than our listed spec, but the final track width is dependent on the control arms, wheels, and brake system used. An easy way to estimate the stock track width is to measure tire tread center to center.
The outside frame width is less critical than track width, but is a consideration. Our 56″ kit likes a frame o.d. of 26″ – 30″.  The 58″ kit likes 28 – 32″ and the 60″ kit likes 30 – 34″. If the frame doesn’t correspond to these dimensions, there are work-arounds that we can suggest.

I hope this helps with your planning. Thanks for asking.