Category: dear welder series

Paul Horton’s replies to actual tech emails.

Dear Welder Series – triangulated upper bar location

Dear Welder Series…
I am researching the install of your Triangulated Four Link on a 57 Pontiac. Do the rear mounts of the upper bars need to be on top of the axle tube? I noticed, even in the pictures of some installs on this site, that some rear upper bar mounts are on the FRONT of the axle tube. Is there a problem mounting them in front of the tube. I am not sure, in my case, I have the room to mount them on top without cutting up the floor.

Your input would be greatly appreciated.

Dear Writer…
Putting the upper bars on top of the axle tubes gives better leverage advantage than on the front of the tube. The bars can also be longer than with the front mounting position. A downside is that the bar will mount 2 – 3″ higher than with the front-of tube position and this can cause floor interference.

Sway bar used on Corvette IFS in 1942 Chevy pickup

Here are some pictures of the installation of a universal sway bar on a 1942 Chevy pickup. I installed it to the rear of the a arm because it gave me much more room. It was going to be very close to and possibly hitting on the tie rods for the rack and pinion steering. I was very pleased with the sway bar and the installation. I will and have recommended your products. Thanks so much,
Jim

The customer bent the arm to clear the tire in a turn.
Nice stout bracket to mount the outer tube.

Dear Welder Series… JeepRod Mustang II?

Dear Welder Series…
I am building an army willys jeeprod and I plan to put a mustang II suspension in front of grill. 30 1/2″ outside frame to outside frame. Money is limited so what would a complete kit cost me. I could not find any complete kits on your site.

Thanks and God bless.

Dear Pastor Ron…
Ron, we sell only the crossmember kit and a disc brake kit, not a hub-to-hub kit. Several of our dealers offer complete kits using our crossmember. They are listed at http://welderseries.com/more/dealers-builders/. The 56″ kit will likely need some frame trimming for coil spring clearance.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts for your project.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… Mustang II control arm holes

Dear Welder Series…
On the coil over shock crossmember it shows a 1/2 hole for the lower a-arm, the lower a-arm pivot bushing on my lower a-arm requires a hole 1 3/8 hole. Is that going to work on this crossmember??

Dear Len…
Len, the 1/2″ hole is stock Mustang II. Many aftermarket a-arms use a 5/8″ bolt and some spacers inside and on the back of the crossmember. Depending on the arrangement of your spacer(s) and bolts, the 1/2″ holes might only have to be drilled for the 5/8″ bolt. If the spacer is 1 piece (on the driver and passenger sides), it can either be cut in 2 to put one section between the front and rear crossmember plates and the other piece on the rear side of the crossmember. Or the rear hole can be opened up to the spacer diameter and leave the spacer as 1 piece.

I hope this answers your question.

Paul Horton

Photo Sharing: 46 Hudson pickup

Alan used our triangulated four link, transmission mount pieces, and engine mount kits. Thanks for the pictures, and great work!

Thought I would share these pictures of a 1946 Hudson Pick up. I installed the diagonal 4 link, 5.3 With a 4L60 transmission and a Mustang coil over front suspension. I used your diagonal four link, engine mounts and transmission mount. Your products are awesome.

5.3 engine mount kit
I like how he mounted the lower frame bracket.
Drop-out transmission mount using Welder Series bits and pieces.

Dear Welder Series… right hand drive Vega bracket?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul

I’m ready to buy all my bits, an NZ freight forwarding company has offered me an introductory 30% off deal. So I’ll give that a go as I think USPS will be a lot.

I will get the rear panhard and the Vega steering but please weld the spacers on the back as it for a right hand drive.

OK. I have been told I need a front panhard, I was looking at your kit, but I have traditional 1930 model a split wishbone radius rods like this

do you think I can just weld a bracket onto the inside of one of the radius rods/arms? And the other end to the chassis rail as per normal, it should be OK. Let me know as  think your kit will be fine if I get the length right.

Cheers  Gary

Dear Gary…
The front Panhard tabs can be welded to the wishbone, Gary.  What axle will you use?  We can weld the Vega spacers on the opposite side for the right hand drive installation.  Please mention this in your order.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… custom adjusters?

Dear Welder Series…
I need an adjuster kit, LH and RH (like #ws100720r) for my split wishbone set up but here’s the deal. I have 3/4 threaded bungs in my wishbones and I was going to put heim joints but I’d rather put urethane instead. I need a 3/4″ thread, on a 1 3/8″ wide urethane bushing with a degree on it.

Let me know if you can make that and I’ll measure what degree I need if you can do it.

Thank you very much,
Louis.

Dear Louis…
Thanks for asking, Louis. Yes, we can do this, depending on the angle you need. Please check the angle and get back to us.

Paul Horton.

Dear Welder Series… triangulated four bar bar lengths?

Dear Welder Series…
How can you calculate the length of the upper and lower bars so to know that your rear four link will work effectively ? I have a 1956 chevy bel air will use coilovers!

Dear Ken…
Ken, a triangulated rear 4-link is fairly forgiving if you need to change bar dimensions a bit. Our standard bar lengths will work well in your Chev.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… 35-40 Rear Boxing Plates?

Dear Welder Series…
Do you have any frame repair kits for the rear wheel area for a 39 Ford stock chassis for restoration.
Mainly need the area at the axel hump behind the rear wheel

Bill

Dear Bill…
Bill, we have boxing plates for the rear half of the 1935 – 40 Ford frame. These might help to reinforce the stock rails, if they are still part of the frame. http://welderseries.com/Boxing-Plates-1935-40-Ford-p50906470 shows the whole kit (front and rear halves), but the rear plates can be purchased on their own. Part #354002, $50.00 each.

Do you think  this would fix the problem?

Paul