Category: dear welder series

Paul Horton’s replies to actual tech emails.

Dear Welder Series… 50 Plymouth Four Link

Dear Welder Series…
Hello I’m a returning customer. I have 50 Plymouth coupe that has a 600hp supercharged motor in it. I’m wanting to know which triangulated kit would be ideal (small or big bushing). It is a street rod but occasionally run at nostalgia drags.

And the other bit of advice or confirming what you said about 120 v welders. My Lincoln 140 hd 120v welder shouldn’t be used to do the final welding?
Thanks for the info
Thomas

Dear Thomas…
Thomas, I’d use the big bushing rear kit. We never had any problems with the small bushing kit but the large bushing kit is stronger and the same price. With 600 HP I’d add some support to the lower bar frame bracket.

I’d only use the 110V welder to tack parts in place for final welding by a heavier machine.

Thanks for using Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… MII in a 1966 Fairlane?

Dear Welder Series…
Hello I’m looking to put a mustang two style front suspension in a project 1966 Fairlane, what info do I need to get to you to order a close kit? Thank you

Dear Chris…
The stock track width for a 1966 Fairlane is 58″, Chris.  Our 58″ Mustang II kit (shown here)

refers to an approximate dimension from rotor wheel mounting face to face.  The brakes and wheels you choose will alter that dimension, usually making the track width wider.  I’d suggest you measure your existing tire tread center-to-center dimension using the wheels and tires you plan to run. Decide if you would like a track width slightly wider than 58″ (then order a 58″ kit) or slightly narrower (then order a 56″ kit).

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… Mustang II for 52 Studebaker Pickup?

Dear Welder Series…
Hello. I am looking for a complete mustang ii front end for a 1952 Studebaker p/u. What do you recommend?

Dear Jason…
Jason, your Stude would use our 58″ kit. Sorry, we sell just the crossmember/upper tower kits, not hub-to-hub.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… Brake Pedal Dimension Questions

Dear Welder Series…
Hi recieved your catalog building a 1935 Chev pickup streetrod just getting an order together need some measurements before hand. Kit #WS24806 booster bracket and pedal kit what is distance off frame to center of booster? On your offset pedal how much offset center pin to center of pedal mount? Also kit #2220 four link kit axle center to center of front bushing mount? thanks so much Tony

Dear Tony…
Here are some links to expand on my answers, Tony…
The booster center is 4-1/4″ off of the boxing plate. The pedal pad mounting hole is 2-1/4″ towards the center of the frame from the booster center. (I hope that’s the answer to your question.)
The pedal arm comes through the floor 1″ towards the center of the frame from the booster center and the arm is 3/8″ thick. The floor slot should have clearance around the 1″ – 1-3/8″ pedal.
On our rear 4-link kit 2220 (and 222501), the center of the front bushing will be about 27-5/8″ to 28″ ahead of axle center.

Click here for installation instructions.

Thanks for these questions.

Dear Welder Series… tie rod end bung?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi I was wondering does the threaded spacer you sell would that fit the part on an early ford tie rod end that would be facing the front of the car if someone bought your through frame radius rod kit?

Dear Aaron…
Aaron, we don’t have a threaded spacer with the 11/16-18 thread to match the early Ford tie rod end… but we could make them. They would be 1″ o.d. x 11/16-18 RH i.d. and about 4″ long. They’d sell for $6.00 each. The part I’m thinking of would be the frame end of a hairpin radius rod or the frame end of a split wishbone. Please let me know if this is the part you need.

[update: this part has been added to our catalog.]

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… 1951 Ford Victoria front suspension?

Dear Welder Series…
Do you make an option for the front suspension on a 1951 Ford Victoria?

Dear Randall…
This swap requires major frame work, Randall, but it has been done.  There are pictures of a similar swap at

https://welderseries.com/2010/07/1950-olds-mustang-ii-installed/

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… Triangulated four link?

Dear Welder Series…
I’m looking to install a triangulated 4-link on my 51 Chevy 3100 street rod project using a GM 12-bolt posi-rear out of a 71 Monte Carlo. Can your kit be modified to connect the upper bars to the dog ears on top of the housing instead of to your upper axle tabs? Thank you!

Dear Charlie…
Charlie, we recently developed a kit so builders can use either a Mustang 8.8 or a GM rear end with the ears on the center section. Here it is:

I hope this will help with your project.

Dear Welder Series… Split Wishbone Question

Dear Welder Series…
Hi, I have a question fer ya.
I have a split bone suspension (’28 Model A) and am going to use each arm independently (as opposed to joined in the middle). I want to use rod ends to join them to each side of my frame (2×4 1/8th inch mild steel). What parts / sizes would you recommend?
Any and all info would be greatly appreciated.
Regards
Roger.

PS; it’s going on a ’26 model T roadster Rat Rod with a “Zd” frame

Dear Roger…
Roger, if you are using spherical rod ends (“Heims”), and want to run the bolt through the frame rail, you could weld a #212321 spacer into each of the rails to keep the walls from collapsing.  Use a 5/8″ rod end.

If the rod end will mount below the frame rail (or above it), you could look at using 2 Versatabs each side:

trimmed to put the rod end where you want it, and use spacer #10767 between the plates.

The Versatabs will have to be drilled out to 5/8″.

If you will use an early Ford tie rod end, you could use our hairpin mount kit, #229000

And, if you want to mount a tie rod end below (or above) the frame, we have 3/8″ thick tabs which you can taper:

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… Bring Parts to Louiville?

Dear Welder Series…
Hello, I would like to know if it is possible to order a part from the catalog and that you bring it for me to the NSRA meeting in Louisville. I will visit that. I am from Holland.
I leave for USA this Tuesday, please let me know as soon as possible.
Thanks
Eddy

Dear Eddy…
Eddy, we will not have a display at Louisville this year. We will just drive our car there and walk around, enjoying the event. We could ship your order to your hotel and have them hold it for you.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… Thru-Frame Tie Rod End Mount question

Dear Welder Series…
Hi I was wondering if your through frame radius rod end kit fits on to 27″ hairpins or is it able to be adapted with some threaded tube and some cutting and welding?

thanks
Aaron

Dear Aaron…
Aaron, our thru’-frame kit is made to work with early Ford (generally 1940 – 48) tie rod ends. These tie rod ends have a male thread 11/16-18. If your radius rods can accept this tie rod end, I feel our kit will work. (Tie rod ends are not included in the kit.)

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… 1951 F1 Mustang II & Four Link?

Dear Welder Series…
I’m just getting started on a frame-off resto for a 1951 Ford F1 Pickup. What do you have available for a Mustang-2 IFS Kit and a 4-Link Rear Kit.
Thanks, Jay

Dear Jay…
Jay, we have two Mustang II kits that you could consider. Here they are:

You will need the 58″ model of these kits.

At the back, we have parallel and triangulated rear 4-link kits (shown below)

A Panhard kit (shown below), should be used with the parallel kit.

 

We also have engine & transmission  mounts and brake pedal assemblies that would be great on your F-1.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… centering the rear end?

Dear Welder Series…
Can the upper arms on your triangulated 4 link be used to centre the rear housing? After installing mine is out by about 1/4″ so I was wondering what limitations are on the upper links for that type of adjustment.

Regards to all,
Doug

Dear Doug…
Doug, if the frame is out by 1/4″, it will only be necessary to move it 1/8″ to get it centered. This can be done with the upper bars without causing any other problems.
I hope everything else is going well for you.

Dear Welder Series… which notch?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi just wondering if you had a c notch kit for a 1956 f100 truck frame.

Thanks Greg

Dear Greg…
Greg, we have a couple of notch kits, depending on how “notched” you want to go.  If you want to notch the bottom of the frame rail, look at this:

If you want to put a step in the frame, see this:

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… Pieces out of caliper bracket kit?

Dear Welder Series…
Howdy!
I’m kinda into an off the wall project.. Well outta the norm anyhow. I am looking at your brake caliper brackets. https://welderseries.com/brake-kit-plates/
I am working on a 1951 Dodge Meadowbrook. I am using Ford explorer rotors and factory hubs. I also have ’93 S-10 calipers 5.5″ guide bolt centers. I am gonna make a custom plate of 3/8″ steel for my spindle to weld your bracket to. I’ll hang the loaded calipers on the rotor with your bracket attached and tack weld them together. Them remove and fully weld. Question 1: Would the Ford or GM matter? As it is not a MII. (Would prefer the GM as it is cheaper.) Question 2: Will your brackets fit these calipers? A side note, I know there are brackets pre-made out there to do this swap but I am a cheap somebody! Most all my parts are salvaged parts. You guys make the THICKEST brackets that I have found! To me that=STRENGTH!
Thank you for your time and I’ll be looking forward to your reply! Matthew

Dear Matthew…
Matt, this sounds like a great project. You are making use of our kit parts the way we imagined when we thought of starting Welder Series!

The GM plate would be fine.

Our brackets are made for the 5.5″ pin centers.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… Mustang II for 1970 Dart?

Dear Welder Series…
I am building a 1970 Dodge Dart Pro touring car and greatly lowering my ride height. Stock front end components won’t handle the drop so I need to explore my options. My frame rails are 32″ inside to inside and I will be running an 18″ wheel. I need my track width to be at most 58″ and at a minimum 56″ closer to 58″ would be better. Is this something I can accomplish with a Mustang II? I have a set of new Mustang II 2″ drop spindles that I received as a gift so that’s what got me thinking. Any help or advice would be appreciated.

Dear John…
John, the nicest frame width for our 58″ Mustang II kit is 32″ O.D. This provides clearance for the coil spring. If this was our project, we would put a section of 2×4 tubing in the stock rails in the area of the crossmember and upper towers. This would be about 8″ ahead and behind the spindle centerline. The dropped spindles would be fine.

The brakes you use will have an effect on the track width. Our 56″ kit, with stock 4-bolt rotors, actually gives a track width of about 56-1/2″. If you use Granada rotors, the track width would be about 57″. The 56″ kit frame width should be 30″ o.d. maximum.

Thanks for asking about this. If my reply has created more questions, please get back to me.