It's been winter for a little while up here, but just recently has the snow been starting to stick around longer than past the mid morning sun.
Setting up axle centerline on the '32. This is one of the most important measurements to take - it will look "wrong" if the tire isn't centered in the wheel well. I also assemble some front suspension components.
How we mounted the body on our '32 build.
I think I've made the '32 build articles a little easier to filter by grouping articles into subcategories.
What we were finding in the '32 is that just because the pressure in the bags was 50 psi, didn't mean the car was sitting where we thought it was. Enter the ride height gauge.
Making sure the steering wheel points "up" when you want it to.
Basically, we just installed the Pitman arm, moved the box forward and backward until the drag link was parallel with the tie rod, then moved it up until the top of the upper tab was about flush with the top of the rail.
From 2004... We installed stock door handles, and tried to get them as close to the stock location as possible.
Mounting the decklid handle was a bit trickier than I originally thought...
Installing and testing the trunk latch mechanism.
We've liked this headlight/ shock mount combo from Pete & Jakes for a long time. We didn't think about installing another bracket, because we like the curves and gracefulness.
I'm using cowl mirrors from a '40 Ford made by Bob Drake, minus the cowl attachment piece. They're quite swoopy and I think will match nicely with the door handles.
A unique method of running the front brake lines on a solid axle '32 Ford.
One of the local events we decided to check out was the Hyde Park Lions Club Cruise, held at Steve Plunkett's Fleetwood Farms in London, Ontario. It's about an hour drive for us....
More Air Conditioning
A/C hoses rank right up there with brake lines on my “things I don’t like looking at” list. What else is on the list, you might ask? Mold, pouty faces, and melting snow are all fighting their way to the top. Anyways, I tried pretty hard to come up with a way of dressing down the hoses. The first way was using Vintage Air’s EZ Clip hose and fittings for the sheer girth reduction. The second was to try to make the zinc plated fittings look a little less shiny. Follow along!
You need a special set of pliers to snap the rings in place. A really nice feature is that you can get an amazing crimp without taking the hoses out of your garage. Get them clocked in the right direction and snap the rings on. That’s all it takes.
On the ’32, I’ve used shrink wrap to cover the hose as well as the fittings. This makes it consistently matte, and looks somewhat like a snake which just swallowed an air conditioning fitting. [I have since removed the heat shrink from the lines… I decided I liked the industrial look of the clamps.]
I installed the drier in the trunk to save space under the dash. It was a little extra #6 hose, but not enough to notice a performance drop especially since the cabin is so small. The trinary safety switch is mounted right to the drier. To mount the drier, I just cut a tube to the distance between the tabs on the mounting bracket and welded two 1/4-20 threaded bungs to that tube. After drilling and countersinking holes to match, that’s all it took. The bolt heads will be hidden by the access panel.
This hose is so nice to work with! It makes running lines under the dash super easy because it will bend in such a tight radius.