To trim the blade for a chopped windshield, we had to set up the arm length and the blade length properly to get the maximum windshield “clearage”.

It will need to be marked at the outside and inside of the blade to make sure you’re not interfering with the windshield frame.

As an aside, I did a little experimenting with a 3/8″ stainless tube, a mill, and a wiper blade.  I like how it turned out, but more work would be required to hook it up to an arm, as well as finishing off the ends.  I think it has some potential though!

We used Specialty Power Window’s wiper arms and blades for flat glass.  They are easy to trim, pretty stable (they don’t flop around a lot), and nicely finished.

A few articles ago, I talked about why I had to trim the front edge off the air ducts.

They are pretty tight, but with the ducts trimmed, as well as the outlet duct trimmed, airflow is great!

For the defrost vents, my original plan was to run a bolt through the vent, the dash, and the plastic piece that the hose hooks up to, which had flat spots at the same width as the vent mounting holes.  Upon further inspection, it was discovered that the plastic ducts (which go under the dash) wouldn’t fit tight against the slots.  I ended up trimming them, but I trimmed so much that there were no longer any mounting tabs.  Vette panel adhesive to the rescue!  I made a ridge along the edge of the duct where it would meet the dash, then carefully maneuvered it into place.  I used a toothpick to smooth out the goop from the top.  I used a few blade inserts to attach the vent from above instead of trying to get a nut on under the dash.

If you’re trying to plan ahead and want to trim the defrost slots in your dash, make sure to account for the thickness of the glass.  Of course I did!

Just a miscellaneous shot of the underdash.  That’s the wiper gear/motor mounted to the column support.

Here is the aired out parking lot profile.