Category: Tech

Homemade Tool Dep’t: C clip pliers

I won’t mention what car these were made for (it’s a little “off-topic” as they say on the HAMB), but the results should be universal.  The goal was to remove a huge C clip that was holding a pooched bearing in place.  I didn’t have anything large or sturdy enough to squeeze the two holes in the clip far enough to remove it from the groove it was in.  Here’s the type of C clip I’m talking about:
c clip

So, what we ended up with was a set of vice grips with two small Robertson drill bits welded to the jaws, like this:

It worked great!

How I removed clearcoat from aluminum wheels

I have recently been trying to refinish a set of wheels because the previous owner thought it would be handy to know that he was right up against the curb.  The wheels are polished aluminum with a thick clear coat.  Because they had been curbed so badly, water and salt had started to seep under the clear coat and corrode the aluminum.  Somehow, I needed to take off the clear.

I tried sandblasting, grinding, body prep, rust remover… nothing would touch them.  Then I found this stuff called Tal Strip.  It’s a pretty harsh chemical, and as soon as I saw the “may cause brain or nervous system damage” I knew it was the right stuff.

I just dropped a glob of it on each spoke and spread it around with a paint brush.  A thick coat is best.  You’ll want to do it outside.  After around 20 minutes, you’ll notice the surface will look like a sponge, and you can just wipe the wheel with a plastic scraper or something to expose the bare aluminum.

I can’t believe how well it works – it’s the most effortless way to clean the wheels!

Before you comment, I’ll mention that they are late model Audi wheels for my Passat wagon 🙂

1953 International Mustang II

What do you mean, “modify the rails”?

We have had quite a few questions about installing our Mustang II kit in cars that don’t lend themselves well to a conversion. Sometimes “modifying the frame rails” is necessary. What exactly do we mean by that?

I thought I’d put together some pictures that show a few frames that have been modified to accept a Mustang II crossmember. If you have any questions about your frame or any of our parts, please email or call toll-free: 1-888-648-2150.

This Oldsmobile frame has been bottlenecked to accept our Mustang II crossmember.
This Oldsmobile frame has been bottlenecked to accept our Mustang II crossmember.
The '57 Oldsmobile has received a similar treatment, but the builder used larger diameter tubing straight forward from the firewall.
The ’57 Oldsmobile has received a similar treatment, but the builder used larger diameter tubing straight forward from the firewall.
You can see the spring clearance notch in the frame rail in this picture of the finished '57 Olds.
You can see the spring clearance notch in the frame rail in this picture of the finished ’57 Olds.
Here is a Welder Series Mustang II in a 1978 Volvo. Extra material was 'wrapped' around the existing front rails of the unibody car.
Here is a Welder Series Mustang II in a 1978 Volvo. Extra material was ‘wrapped’ around the existing front rails of the unibody car.
A '57 Ford frame has the springs mounted inside the frame rails.
A ’57 Ford frame has the springs mounted inside the frame rails.
The '57 has been cleaned up and 2x4 tubing was used to mount our MII.
The ’57 has been cleaned up and 2×4 tubing was used to mount our MII.
1953 International Mustang II
1953 International Mustang II
1953 International Mustang II
1953 International Mustang II
1940 Dodge Mustang II
1940 Dodge Mustang II
1940 Dodge Mustang II
1940 Dodge Mustang II

If you’ve put our in something “weird”, please send us some pictures!

Making a compound curve pattern

Garry Thomson of Thomson Metalworks stopped by the shop today and continued to take some measurements off the ’32.  A logical question would be “why does he need ’32 Ford measurements?”  Quick answer: Garry is building an aluminum ’32 coupe.  I don’t want to take too much time describing it, because I’m hoping to get some in progress shots in the near future.  Other than saying it’s very impressive, there’s not much to say… it’s very impressive.

Garry started with regular low-tack decal paper.  It doesn’t stretch at all, and it’s easy to remove.

He covered the area he wanted to create a template from.

After the sign paper, he added a layer of fiberglass tape to hold the shape.  It also doesn’t stretch.

With two layers of fiberglass tape over the sign tape, he was able to remove the template.  Now he has a perfect reproduction of the corner, and he can lay it over the aluminum as it’s worked so he knows if he has any low spots.