Category: dear welder series

Paul Horton’s replies to actual tech emails.

Dear Welder Series… 1939 Plymouth Pickup frame options?

Dear Welder Series…
I just got a 1939 Plymouth pickup. I want to lower it, and I’m looking at the 4 link for the rear. It has a Ford 9″ rear axle. Also looking at maybe a Mustang II front. Can you help me maybe you have something that will work. It sits way too high and I’m going to box in the frame after I’m done. Thanks, Tom.

Dear Tom…
Hi, Tom. Any one of our rear 4-link kits could be used with your Plymouth. If you use a parallel kit, be sure to get a Panhard kit, too.

Check the track width (the distance from the center of one tire to the center of the opposite tire) to help decide which Mustang II kit to use. The frame width, inside and outside, will also help in choosing the Mustang II track width to get.

Here are some links for products that might work:
Rear suspension

Rear panhard kits

Click on any one of the kits for a more detailed description. This will probably generate more questions. Please send them to me and I’ll try to help.

Dear Welder Series… custom bushing tubes?

Dear Welder Series…
Can I get the outer bushing tube and the inner bushing tube in custom lengths? I’m looking at using your 7/8″ rod with the welded bushing tube on the end, but I will need that bushing part to be longer. The bushings will be separated, I know, this is why I would need the inner one to be the same length as the outer. This is not going to be used on a high stress situation, in fact there will be no weight put on it at all. Thanks

Dear Mike…
Mike, please send some dimensions for the parts you want made and we will get back to you. I think we can look after this.

Dear Welder Series… Vega bracket question

Dear Welder Series…
Do you have a drawing/instuctions for the installation of your Vega box bracket? Will I have to drill out all or any of the threaded tabs on my Vega box? The reason I ask is that the picture I saw in your catalog shows only bolts no nuts. Is the box bolted to the bracket or nut and bolted through the bracket?

Dear Brock…

Brock, this is a link to the Vega bracket page on our site. Scroll down and click in the installation link for more details.

Yes, the “top” threaded boss on the Vega box has to be drilled out. We supply a 7/16-20 (fine thread) bolt and a boss for that hole. The lower holes in the box are threaded and we supply the bolts for them, too.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… what kind of tubing do you use?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi I was wondering if your 4 link tubing is DOM? thanks Jad

Dear Jad…
Yes, Jad, our tubing is DOM (Drawn Over Mandrel), also called Seamless tubing. This is high quality and quite different from pipe or HSS (Hollow Structural Section) or CREW (Cold Rolled Electric Welded) tubing. These last 3 types all have a welded seam the length of the tube.

Our DOM bars are threaded directly. The bars for the large bushings are 1″ OD x .188″ (3/16″) wall threaded 3/4-16.

Thanks for asking.

Dear Welder Series… 1936 Chev Master mustang ii?

Dear Welder Series…
I am looking for a MII front end for a 1936 Chevy Master Sedan. I really like the looks of your standard coil crossmember. Do you have recommended frame widths for the 56″ and 58″ cross members? I see that you recommend the 56″ crossmember for a 36 chevy, but I may run a larger offset wheel and 58 may work out better for my application. My frame measures 24″ inside to inside and about 27.5″ outside to outside at “Z”. Also, in calculating ground clearances, can you tell me what the measurement is from the spindle height notch to the bottom of the crossmember? I am trying to get the car as low as possible and retain about 3-3.5 inches of travel. The top of my frame at ride height is 12″ from the ground (same as spindle center with my 24″ tire) so the notch will be right that the top of the frame if I use stock spindles or 2″ below with dropped. Also, does the top coil tower have enough material to mount to the frame if I go with stock spindles in this setup? This would
translate into basically cutting the crossmember completely off horizontally at the spindle notch, which would be the top of the frame rail. The tops of the rails are pretty level concerning the additional material needed for correct anti-dive. I hope this makes sense. Looking forward to ordering parts soon….

Thanks!

Dear Randy…
Thanks for giving me these details, Randy.

The limiting factors for the frame width vary depending on the frame height, but in general:
Minimum frame o.d. for the 56″ kit is 26″. Max frame o.d. is 30″. Depending on frame height, max would be about 30-1/2″ with the coil-over kit.
Minimum frame o.d. for the 58″ kit is 28″. Max frame o.d. is 32″. Depending on frame height, max would be about 32-1/2″ with the coil-over kit.

These min/max dimensions can be “defeated” by notching the frame rails (for spring clearance, for example) or by adding to the inside or outside of the frame in the area of the crossmember and upper towers.

With the crossmember sitting on the bench, the spindle height notch is 5-3/16″ off of the bench surface. If you use 2″ dropped spindles, the bottom of the crossmember will be 7-3/16″ lower than the spindle.

We would use 11-1/2″ as spindle height with a 24″ tall tire. This allows for tire “squat” when weight is on the tire.

Would consider putting a step notch in the frame in the crossmember/upper tower area to make the installation (much) easier?

Thanks again for considering Welder Series parts for your project.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
thanks paul. It looks like ground clearance wont be a problem then. Sorry for the additional questions, but how would stepping the frame make the install easier? I would think that notching the cross member would be easier. Is it because I want ride height so low / crossmember high in the frame? Also, do the upper towers have enough material to mount to the top of the frame rail if the top of the frame is at the spindle notch ? (i.e., -using dropped spindles). I am looking forward to getting parts in. I originally built the car back in the early 90’s and am doing a complete re-frame off. I am plugging along and will hopefully have the body off the frame this weekend. Oh, you dont make any rear leaf spring hangers (2.5″) do you? I appreciate your help Paul!

Thanks again,
Randy

Dear Randy…
Randy, you’re right about the low ride height and the crossmember. The upper towers won’t have any material to weld to the frame if the top of the rail is at spindle height. (The bottom edge of the tower is spindle height.)

Sorry, we don’t have leaf spring hangers.

Good questions & comments!

Paul

Dear Welder Series… drag link lengths?

Dear Welder Series…
Can you give me the actual length of the drag link tubes that you offer? I do not want to order a drag link based on the year and length of the axle. There are to many versions out there and would rather not get into shipping parts back and forth scenario due to wrong lengths.
Thanks.

Dear Sam…
I understand what you’re saying, Sam. On the right side of the blog, download the “58 page catalog” and then go to page 14. You do not have to print the catalog, just open the download.(Maybe you know that and maybe you don’t… but 58 pages is a lot to print out if you don’t know…) The tube lengths are all listed, with our part numbers.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… Ecotec motor mounts?

Dear Welder Series…
Hello, I was just going over your website (very good I might add).
I saw the pictures of an engine mounting plate for the Ecotec in one of your articles.
I am in the process of putting the Ecotec 2.4 into my 72 Jeep CJ5 and was wondering if you had any plans to produce the plates?
Thanks
Regards

Terry
Vintage Jeep Conversions LLC

Dear Terry…
Thanks for writing, Terry. The Ecotec install was part of the NSRA giveaway car which Dave Tucci built, that DW helped with. We didn’t make the plate and don’t have any plans to (unless people keep asking us for it…). We do a fair bit of custom work, like preparing CAD drawings and cutting to customer’s sketches. If we can help with that, please let me know.

Thanks for your interest.

Dear Welder Series… how to lower my Model A?

Dear Welder Series…
Just started a Rat Rod Model A Ford.
I chose a Model A becouse my family collect them and we have lots of cool parts to make one with.
But I am stumped on how to lower the front end  and where to get information and parts.
I like the suicide front end and have seen the options you offer like the Flat Front crossmember & the spring perch kit. Would I need both?
Can I order the Suicide spring perch kit already welded?
I work at a large car dealership and have access to getting some help and welding but mostly trying to build it with my sons.
I have watched some of your videos already and they are very helpful – are there any more that would help me with the front end?

Thanks

Dear Kenneth…
Kenneth, the flat front crossmember (below) is designed to mount the spring in the channel, much like a stock Model ‘A’ front crossmember.

The suicide perch (below) is designed to mount the spring ahead of a round tube front crossmember.

You would not use both of them. The suicide perch is not offered welded because the main plate gets welded to the crossmember first and the gussets would be in the way.

I hope we can help with parts for your project.

Dear Welder Series… Model A parts

Dear Welder Series…
Hi, I’m building a 1931 model a sport coupe. I am in the process of boxing the rails. What I am interested in is your m2 frond end kit. I am also interested in the back frame member shown in your video, but cannot find it in your online catalog. I plan on using a 4.6 liter, with and AOD trans. I will also be interested in a kit for the motor and trans mounts for the same. Can you advise? also please send a catalog to:
Paul

Dear Paul…
Paul, here are some products you are looking at:

Model ‘A’ Mustang II:

 

Model ‘A’ rear crossmember (for narrowed rails):

 

4.6 L engine mounts:

Transmission mount:

To use the 2115-style mount, you will have to make a transmission adapter similar to this product:

(Check the hole spacing on your transmission with the specs in the description.)

We will mail a catalog to you.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… 1971 Chev truck Mustang II?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi, I just received my 4-link kit and everything looks great! I have a ’71 chevy C10 truck I would like to convert to Mustang II front end. It’s my understanding my truck has a stock track width of 65.8″ (with stock wheels and tires). Should the measurement be taken hub-to-hub? I noticed the widest kit you offer is 60″ Any suggestions? Thanks for any info.

Brandon

Dear Brandon…
Thanks for your comments on the rear 4-link, Brandon. It’s a lot of work putting a Mustang II in your truck. 60″ is the widest track we have. To get out to 65/66″ (assuming you are comfortable doing the frame modifications required), get the 60″ kit and assemble it with your control arms, spindles, brakes, wheels/tires, and rack. Next, position it under your truck to determine exactly how much wider you want it. Make the crossmember this much wider in the center. A special rack can be ordered from Maval Mfg, http://www.mavalgear.com/unisteer.html.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series…
So the only way to fit the kit is with a completely assembled front end? Where I found the track width info they said with stock wheels and tires, so I’m wondering if it’s the overall width? The frame rails in the front are only about 28″wide. I don’t have any issue with the fab on the frame or cross member. I just didn’t want to have to buy a complete hub-to-hub kit when I’m so far from completion.

Thanks again,

Brandon

Dear Brandon…
I understand your plan, Brandon.  Here is some math for you to consider:  A stock Mustang II track width is 56-1/2″ using stock rotors.  The lower control arm pivot bolts are 22-1/4″ c-c on our 56″ kit.  The distance from the lower arm pivot hole to the rotor wheel mounting surface is, therefore, 17-1/8″.  (56.5 – 22.25) / 2 = 17.125  If you know how much the brake kit you plan to use differs from a stock MII location, you could calculate how much to add to the crossmember if stock-dimension control arms are used.  This would probably be close enough, since the fenders are so large and +/- 1/2″ might not be a problem.

You might want to read through the installation instructions here (for the mustang II crossmember kit) or here (for the mustang II coil-over crossmember kit) to get an idea of the frame work required.

I hope this helps.

Paul

Dear Welder Series… Front four link brackets?

Dear Welder Series…
We are building a 1936 ford pickup. It’s chopped, channeled over a 2×3″ (.125) frame. It will be sans fenders. The bed is custom & short. We are using a 9″ ford rear. I watched your video about the 4-bar brackets using one piece of plate & laser cutting the folds. Very interesting. Do you also make the front brackets for the 2×3″ frame? If so what is the cost. Do you have a catalog ?
tucker

Dear Stephen…
Stephen, 4-bar frame brackets are at:

There are lots more parts throughout the store site. The fold-and-weld rear axle brackets have been replaced by brackets that are already formed.

Please send your mailing address and we will send a paper catalog to you.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… Mustang II Shock Hats Only?

Dear Welder Series…
Is there anyway to get just the mustang II shock hats?

Dear Paul…
We can do this, Paul…

If you need just the cones, they are shown here:

If you need the complete upper towers, they are part #’s 14323 and 14333, all welded, for #91.00 each.  You should also order the upper tower boxing plates, 2 of #14308 at 4.50 each.

Let me know if you need the upper towers complete, but not welded.  I’ll send a list of the parts with their prices.

Supplying components for chassis builders is what Welder Series was originally set up to do.

Thanks for looking at our parts.

Dear Welder Series… Motor Mount Dimensions

Dear Welder Series…
Hello, I was looking at your SBC motor mount (shown here:)

and was wondering what are the dimensions of it. What I mean by dimensions is what is the widest it is when everything is mounted, like what is the widest frame rail will it fit.

Thanks,
MJ

Dear Martin…
Martin, there are 2 versions of the urethane mounts. One (#2149) would max out at 32″ from boxing plate to boxing plate. The other (#21496) would max out at 33-1/2″ boxing plate to boxing plate. These dimensions will be reduced if the engine is mounted higher in the frame rails because the frame brackets will be on an angle.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… 50 Plymouth Four Link

Dear Welder Series…
Hello I’m a returning customer. I have 50 Plymouth coupe that has a 600hp supercharged motor in it. I’m wanting to know which triangulated kit would be ideal (small or big bushing). It is a street rod but occasionally run at nostalgia drags.

And the other bit of advice or confirming what you said about 120 v welders. My Lincoln 140 hd 120v welder shouldn’t be used to do the final welding?
Thanks for the info
Thomas

Dear Thomas…
Thomas, I’d use the big bushing rear kit. We never had any problems with the small bushing kit but the large bushing kit is stronger and the same price. With 600 HP I’d add some support to the lower bar frame bracket.

I’d only use the 110V welder to tack parts in place for final welding by a heavier machine.

Thanks for using Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… MII in a 1966 Fairlane?

Dear Welder Series…
Hello I’m looking to put a mustang two style front suspension in a project 1966 Fairlane, what info do I need to get to you to order a close kit? Thank you

Dear Chris…
The stock track width for a 1966 Fairlane is 58″, Chris.  Our 58″ Mustang II kit (shown here)

refers to an approximate dimension from rotor wheel mounting face to face.  The brakes and wheels you choose will alter that dimension, usually making the track width wider.  I’d suggest you measure your existing tire tread center-to-center dimension using the wheels and tires you plan to run. Decide if you would like a track width slightly wider than 58″ (then order a 58″ kit) or slightly narrower (then order a 56″ kit).

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.