Author: DW

March 2012 Photo Sharing Winner

Duane sent in a few pics of the ’32 3 window he’s building. Good grief, this thing sits perfect. Duane used our front four link kit, Panhard bars (front & rear), front shock mounts, Vega steering box mount, U bolt kit, tie rod & drag link, frame rail boxing plates, some motor mount pieces, and exhaust hangers.

Using the random number generator at www.random.org, Duane was selected and will receive a $50 credit on his account here against future purchases. Thanks for taking the pictures!

If you have pictures of our parts you’d like to share, please send them to pictures@welderseries.com.

 

Dear Welder Series… 68 Mustang Mustang II?

Dear Welder Series…
I am interested in your Mustang II conversion for a 68 Mustang which will have a late Mustang 5.0 motor and t5 transmission. What I would like to know is, can I use Granada spindles and the stock Mustang control arms with this crossmember. Also, if I can’t use them what ones will work with your crossmember?
Thanks for your help

Dear John
John, you can use the stock Mustang II control arms with our crossmember, but the Granada spindles will not work.  Use 1974-78 Mustang II or 1974-80 Pinto spindles. Granada rotors can be used on the Mustang II/Pinto spindles with our #2125 caliper bracket kit:

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… Motor Mounts for ’56 Chevy Pickup?

Dear Welder Series…
Hello,
I am emailing to find out if you have a Chevy V8 mount kit that will work in a 1956 Chevy pickup truck.

Thanks,
Jase

Dear Jase…
Jase, either of our Chev motor mount kits will work in your ’56. The frame brackets must be trimmed to put the engine at the height you want.
Check these products out:

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… Model A Mustang II Question

Dear Welder Series…
Will the MII hub to hub IFS for a 1928-31 fit on a 2×3 rectangular frame? Also what is the min and max width it will fit. I’m building a 1927 full fendered Ford.
Thanks

Dear Howard…
Howard, our Model ‘A’ Mustang II crossmember (below),

is designed to fit a stock or reproduction Model ‘A’ frame. The crossmember takes into account the tapers in the stock dimensions of the Ford frame. The upper spring towers weld to the outside of the frame and to the top of the crossmember “wings”. The nominal dimension at spindle centerline is 26″. There wouldn’t be much more tolerance than +/- 1/2″ on that.

I hope this helps.

Dear Welder Series… Jeep Parts?

Dear Welder Series…
I am building an old school Jeep CJ5. I can’t find any aftermarket frames or frame parts anywhere. What are the chances you are going to start making some? How about a 1955 CJ5 frame kit? The CJ5 frame is the same from 1955 to 1971. Thank you for your time. I have found so much street rod stuff that is going to be Jeep stuff. You guys rock! Maybe look into the off-road market… I am going to use your motor mounts, body mounts, brackets, tabs, unholes… I have found so many uses for your parts.

Dear Kerry…
Thanks, Kerry. I’m happy you found Welder Series parts that you can use on your Jeep. Our parts are quite adaptable!

We don’t have any plans to build Jeep frames or parts that would be specifically for Jeeps. Sorry.

Thanks for looking at welderseries.com.

 

Dear Welder Series… Deuce Only?

Dear Welder Series…
Mr Horton:
I have two major regrets. One is selling my 5 window deuce when I came home from Nam. The second is that I didn’t find your web site sooner. I would like to use your “Welder Series” Mustang II cross-member and coil mounts but I’m wondering which manufacturer’s tube arms and dropped spindles would be compatible with my 36 Ford front end. Actually I would like to use a number of your items but I know (and realize why.) you use a deuce as a sort of nucleus of much of your inventory but does your catalog specify if the item is only for use with a deuce? I wanted to down load your catalog but I wasn’t sure if I had to be a member first.
 Thanks, Kep
Dear Kep…
Kep, I’m happy that you found us now instead of three years from now…For Mustang II arms, check with some of the companies on our “Dealers/Builders” page, http://welderseries.com/blog/dealers-builders/ .Send us your mailing address and we will get a catalog on the way to you. The parts themselves don’t know what they are… Welder Series came to be because when we were building hot rods, we would often want to use a component from some kit in an application I hadn’t thought of when designing it. Sort of “imagineering”.Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… 1957 GMC truck four link?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi, I contacted you last year before Christmas sometime and was going to order up a rear 4 link with air bag brackets. Since then things have changed and now I will be doing the same thing but with a smaller axle. It is the gm 8.5″ from an S10. The axle tube dimension is less than what your brackets are cut for. Do you have a different axle bracket to fit the smaller axle tube diameter? Or do you have a suggestion for my problem?
thanks,
Dennis

Dear Dennis…
Builders have used a short length of tubing, 3″ O.D. and the same I.D. as your axle tube, as a bushing. Split the tube into 2 “C” halves. This will make up the difference in the axle to bracket diameter. It will also spread the load over a wider area for more strength.

Thanks for asking, Dennis.

Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul,

thanks for getting back so soon. This is going to be installed on a 57 GMC truck. I am thinking the bars should be sort of parallel with the road at ride height, which means the lower bar will be below the frame quite a bit. Do you make a frame bracket for these trucks?
thanks,
Dennis
Dear Dennis…
I have a similar bracket that was designed for the Ford F1 truck. One bar mounts just above the bottom of the frame rail and the other is lower. Will check it out when I get a few minutes.

Thanks for asking.

Paul

Dear Welder Series… 1968 Chevy pickup rear suspension?

Dear Welder Series…
I have a 68 Chevy c10 pickup that I would like to replace the trailing arms w an adjustable 4 link setup using a Chevy 10 bolt rear. I would like to delete the Panhard bar also.
What do you recommend? Do you have a complete kit with shocks and springs?

Thanks Chris

Dear Chris…
If you want to eliminate the Panhard bar, our triangulated kit would be a good way to go, Chris. Check out the product below for details.

If your GM 10 bolt rear end has the ears on the differential case, you could look at this product.

I’d suggest the big bushing kit.

Sorry, we don’t sell coil-overs.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… 1952 Ford Mainline Mustang II?

Dear Welder Series…
I have a 1952 Ford Mainline I am looking for a kit for the front end of this bad boy. I want to airbag the front at the end of the day. Do you have a kit for this. Thanks for your time Mike

Dear Mike…
Mike, putting a Mustang II in this frame requires cutting out the stock frame in the area of the upper and lower control arms and replacing that section with rectangular tubing. Then mount the MII to this tubing. There are some pic of this being done at

http://welderseries.com/?s=Mustang+II+install+pics .

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… 1948 Ford Mustang II frame question.

Dear Welder Series…
I have purchased your Mustang II Crossmember kit for my 1948 Ford Tudor sedan. I’m using the factory X-frame, at the front section where I am to install the crossmember there are the original frame holes. My question is do I have to box in the frame rails or can I plug weld to fill the holes? I’ve attached a picture of my frame. Where the rubber stops are located is where the holes are inside of the frame rails. The frame is already “boxed”.
The frame was  upside down when taken.
Please let me know.
Thank you,
Tony

Dear Tony…
Tony, we just cut out some circles and filled the holes in the stock boxing plates.

Good question.

Universal center section

New Product: Universal Center Section Kit

This center section was designed with not only the center section in mind. Design points considered:
– Change transmissions without relocating the tubes on the frame.
– Drop the transmission easily.
– Run exhaust above the lowest tube.
– Brake pedal/booster/master cylinder integration.
– Resist frame twisting.

It can be installed in frames up to 42″ between the rails, and is supplied ready-to-weld. This means the tubes are mandrel bent, notched, and ready to trim and assemble. Main tubes are 1-1/2″ x .120 wall, smaller tubes are 1″ x .120 wall.

Kits are available as add-ons to mount T350, T400, and 700r4 transmissions.

Center section only: $295
Center section with T350 mount: $365
Center section with T400 mount: $325
Center section with 700r4 mount: $365

Click to view a PDF of the installation instructions.

[catalog-product id=”5665″]

Dear Welder Series… Ford 8.8 Four Link?

Dear Welder Series…
I have a 1980 MGB and am installing a narrowed Ford 8.8 rear-end. I have a leaf spring original rear suspension and want to install a 4-link to my 8.8, with coil over shocks. Can you help me?
Dave

Dear Dave…
Dave, our parallel rear 4-link kit could be used with a Panhard bar kit (both shown below).

If your 8.8 has the ears on the case for the stock triangulated upper bars, this product can be used:

This is a fairly new kit that has special brackets for the 8.8″ upper bushings. The upper bars have to be cut to length and then the bracket gets welded to the bar. This allows for different frame widths.

The WS222501 and the WS318588 each costs $340.00. The welded versions cost $390.00. The Panhard kit costs $93.00 ready to weld and $115.00 welded.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.