Author: DW

Dear Welder Series… Model A parts

Dear Welder Series…
Hi, I’m building a 1931 model a sport coupe. I am in the process of boxing the rails. What I am interested in is your m2 frond end kit. I am also interested in the back frame member shown in your video, but cannot find it in your online catalog. I plan on using a 4.6 liter, with and AOD trans. I will also be interested in a kit for the motor and trans mounts for the same. Can you advise? also please send a catalog to:
Paul

Dear Paul…
Paul, here are some products you are looking at:

Model ‘A’ Mustang II:

 

Model ‘A’ rear crossmember (for narrowed rails):

 

4.6 L engine mounts:

Transmission mount:

To use the 2115-style mount, you will have to make a transmission adapter similar to this product:

(Check the hole spacing on your transmission with the specs in the description.)

We will mail a catalog to you.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Louisville 2012

Another great show in Louisville this year, but you won’t see any booth pictures! For the first time in a LONG time, we decided not to display this summer. Paul and Dorothy decided… well, I’ll quote what I said a few months ago:

Posted June 19th, 2012

For the past umpteen years, we’ve been attending two shows with our display: the Syracuse Nationals (in Syracuse), and the NSRA Street Rod Nationals Plus in Louisville. This year, we’ll also attend those two shows. If you stop by our usual booth location though, you will notice something different. No, Paul didn’t dye his hair. Guess again. Nope- we didn’t get one of those tractor trailers with the “not for hire” sticker on the window. The only thing that’s changed is whose display is in that spot- it’s not ours! After a lot of discussion, we’ve decided to relinquish our vendor spots and attend the shows in the ’32 as participants.

Maintaining the display will take away a lot of production and shipping time (we are, after all, in the hot rod chassis parts business), and Paul and Dorothy are getting to the point that they no longer want to stand in the same place for a few days. Since his name is on the door, if he wants to walk, let the man walk. I benefit as well, since my wife and children will probably come to Louisville with me to hang out and participate. We’ll get to roam and check out cars together!

All three of us enjoy talking with everyone who stops in to the booth, so that’s definitely a down side. Even though we won’t have a display, we’ll still enjoy talking with people around the fairgrounds. I’ll be updating our Facebook page from the show as well.

I realize I didn’t need to explain all that, but I wanted to convey the point that business is going well and this is a decision which we didn’t make lightly. For a family business, deciding how you spend your time is key. We want to keep our business sharply focused on getting high quality parts out the door quickly, and this is one way we feel we’re deliberately maintaining that focus.

Anyways, since I was uploading pictures to Facebook while I was there, it’s probably easier to just check them out on Facebook.

 

Dear Welder Series… 1971 Chev truck Mustang II?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi, I just received my 4-link kit and everything looks great! I have a ’71 chevy C10 truck I would like to convert to Mustang II front end. It’s my understanding my truck has a stock track width of 65.8″ (with stock wheels and tires). Should the measurement be taken hub-to-hub? I noticed the widest kit you offer is 60″ Any suggestions? Thanks for any info.

Brandon

Dear Brandon…
Thanks for your comments on the rear 4-link, Brandon. It’s a lot of work putting a Mustang II in your truck. 60″ is the widest track we have. To get out to 65/66″ (assuming you are comfortable doing the frame modifications required), get the 60″ kit and assemble it with your control arms, spindles, brakes, wheels/tires, and rack. Next, position it under your truck to determine exactly how much wider you want it. Make the crossmember this much wider in the center. A special rack can be ordered from Maval Mfg, http://www.mavalgear.com/unisteer.html.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series…
So the only way to fit the kit is with a completely assembled front end? Where I found the track width info they said with stock wheels and tires, so I’m wondering if it’s the overall width? The frame rails in the front are only about 28″wide. I don’t have any issue with the fab on the frame or cross member. I just didn’t want to have to buy a complete hub-to-hub kit when I’m so far from completion.

Thanks again,

Brandon

Dear Brandon…
I understand your plan, Brandon.  Here is some math for you to consider:  A stock Mustang II track width is 56-1/2″ using stock rotors.  The lower control arm pivot bolts are 22-1/4″ c-c on our 56″ kit.  The distance from the lower arm pivot hole to the rotor wheel mounting surface is, therefore, 17-1/8″.  (56.5 – 22.25) / 2 = 17.125  If you know how much the brake kit you plan to use differs from a stock MII location, you could calculate how much to add to the crossmember if stock-dimension control arms are used.  This would probably be close enough, since the fenders are so large and +/- 1/2″ might not be a problem.

You might want to read through the installation instructions here (for the mustang II crossmember kit) or here (for the mustang II coil-over crossmember kit) to get an idea of the frame work required.

I hope this helps.

Paul

Dear Welder Series… Front four link brackets?

Dear Welder Series…
We are building a 1936 ford pickup. It’s chopped, channeled over a 2×3″ (.125) frame. It will be sans fenders. The bed is custom & short. We are using a 9″ ford rear. I watched your video about the 4-bar brackets using one piece of plate & laser cutting the folds. Very interesting. Do you also make the front brackets for the 2×3″ frame? If so what is the cost. Do you have a catalog ?
tucker

Dear Stephen…
Stephen, 4-bar frame brackets are at:

There are lots more parts throughout the store site. The fold-and-weld rear axle brackets have been replaced by brackets that are already formed.

Please send your mailing address and we will send a paper catalog to you.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

July 2012

The frame plates have been drilled.
Our Ford motor mount kit, with quite a few modifications.
Model A radiator mount used as lower shock mount.
Frame curves tying in a Jag IRS. These are “horizontal” curves.
Frame curves tying in a Jag IRS. These are “horizontal” curves.
Frame curves tying in a Jag IRS. These are “horizontal” curves.
Triangulated 8.8 upper mounts, with bars supplied by the customer.
Triangulated 8.8 upper mounts, with bars supplied by the customer.

Dear Welder Series… Mustang II Shock Hats Only?

Dear Welder Series…
Is there anyway to get just the mustang II shock hats?

Dear Paul…
We can do this, Paul…

If you need just the cones, they are shown here:

If you need the complete upper towers, they are part #’s 14323 and 14333, all welded, for #91.00 each.  You should also order the upper tower boxing plates, 2 of #14308 at 4.50 each.

Let me know if you need the upper towers complete, but not welded.  I’ll send a list of the parts with their prices.

Supplying components for chassis builders is what Welder Series was originally set up to do.

Thanks for looking at our parts.

Dear Welder Series… Motor Mount Dimensions

Dear Welder Series…
Hello, I was looking at your SBC motor mount (shown here:)

and was wondering what are the dimensions of it. What I mean by dimensions is what is the widest it is when everything is mounted, like what is the widest frame rail will it fit.

Thanks,
MJ

Dear Martin…
Martin, there are 2 versions of the urethane mounts. One (#2149) would max out at 32″ from boxing plate to boxing plate. The other (#21496) would max out at 33-1/2″ boxing plate to boxing plate. These dimensions will be reduced if the engine is mounted higher in the frame rails because the frame brackets will be on an angle.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… 50 Plymouth Four Link

Dear Welder Series…
Hello I’m a returning customer. I have 50 Plymouth coupe that has a 600hp supercharged motor in it. I’m wanting to know which triangulated kit would be ideal (small or big bushing). It is a street rod but occasionally run at nostalgia drags.

And the other bit of advice or confirming what you said about 120 v welders. My Lincoln 140 hd 120v welder shouldn’t be used to do the final welding?
Thanks for the info
Thomas

Dear Thomas…
Thomas, I’d use the big bushing rear kit. We never had any problems with the small bushing kit but the large bushing kit is stronger and the same price. With 600 HP I’d add some support to the lower bar frame bracket.

I’d only use the 110V welder to tack parts in place for final welding by a heavier machine.

Thanks for using Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… MII in a 1966 Fairlane?

Dear Welder Series…
Hello I’m looking to put a mustang two style front suspension in a project 1966 Fairlane, what info do I need to get to you to order a close kit? Thank you

Dear Chris…
The stock track width for a 1966 Fairlane is 58″, Chris.  Our 58″ Mustang II kit (shown here)

refers to an approximate dimension from rotor wheel mounting face to face.  The brakes and wheels you choose will alter that dimension, usually making the track width wider.  I’d suggest you measure your existing tire tread center-to-center dimension using the wheels and tires you plan to run. Decide if you would like a track width slightly wider than 58″ (then order a 58″ kit) or slightly narrower (then order a 56″ kit).

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… Brake Pedal Dimension Questions

Dear Welder Series…
Hi recieved your catalog building a 1935 Chev pickup streetrod just getting an order together need some measurements before hand. Kit #WS24806 booster bracket and pedal kit what is distance off frame to center of booster? On your offset pedal how much offset center pin to center of pedal mount? Also kit #2220 four link kit axle center to center of front bushing mount? thanks so much Tony

Dear Tony…
Here are some links to expand on my answers, Tony…
The booster center is 4-1/4″ off of the boxing plate. The pedal pad mounting hole is 2-1/4″ towards the center of the frame from the booster center. (I hope that’s the answer to your question.)
The pedal arm comes through the floor 1″ towards the center of the frame from the booster center and the arm is 3/8″ thick. The floor slot should have clearance around the 1″ – 1-3/8″ pedal.
On our rear 4-link kit 2220 (and 222501), the center of the front bushing will be about 27-5/8″ to 28″ ahead of axle center.

Click here for installation instructions.

Thanks for these questions.

Dear Welder Series… tie rod end bung?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi I was wondering does the threaded spacer you sell would that fit the part on an early ford tie rod end that would be facing the front of the car if someone bought your through frame radius rod kit?

Dear Aaron…
Aaron, we don’t have a threaded spacer with the 11/16-18 thread to match the early Ford tie rod end… but we could make them. They would be 1″ o.d. x 11/16-18 RH i.d. and about 4″ long. They’d sell for $6.00 each. The part I’m thinking of would be the frame end of a hairpin radius rod or the frame end of a split wishbone. Please let me know if this is the part you need.

[update: this part has been added to our catalog.]

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… Triangulated four link?

Dear Welder Series…
I’m looking to install a triangulated 4-link on my 51 Chevy 3100 street rod project using a GM 12-bolt posi-rear out of a 71 Monte Carlo. Can your kit be modified to connect the upper bars to the dog ears on top of the housing instead of to your upper axle tabs? Thank you!

Dear Charlie…
Charlie, we recently developed a kit so builders can use either a Mustang 8.8 or a GM rear end with the ears on the center section. Here it is:

I hope this will help with your project.