Tag: sweptline

D100 Build: A/C & Heater Hoses

I mounted the drier on the driver side inner fender, near the front. It’s tucked out of the way and offers an easy route for the -6 hose coming out of the condenser.
Doing the robot.
I don’t have any of the hoses tied together yet, but this will be the route they’ll take. Missing from this photo is the heater hose from the water pump.

 

II Much makes these handy anodized aluminum adapters to go from #10 heater hose to -10 EZ-Clip. I used a small section of rubber hose off the water pump, and then will use the Vintage Air reduced diameter hose to match the A/C hoses.
Check out the YouTube video on how to make the connections. It’s really, really easy!
The II Much bulkhead system is one of my favourite parts on this whole truck. I have one more hose to run, then I’ll be able to install the hose separators to really clean it up. It’s designed to fit the EZ Clip hoses, so you’ll have to decide whether you want to run normal heater hose from the water pump & intake up to the bulkhead, then use the adapters to switch to EZ Clip and go through the bulkhead, or run EZ Clip hose all the way from the evaporator to the engine. If you do the latter (my method), keep in mind that the heater control valve needs to be plumbed in the line coming from the intake, but the valve is designed to use normal heater hose. You’ll need to use an adapter before the control valve to convert from -10 to standard heater hose.
I thought there was going to be a fair bit of room under the dash! Get everything mounted that could possibly be an interference point. You can see the charge port on the -10 hose – check with the people who will be charging your system to see if they are ok with having one charge port inside the vehicle and one in the engine compartment.

Here’s a video showing the process of making a connection with the EZ-Clip system:

 

D100: Rack Extensions

Here’s a quick bit of info on how we matched the rack to our 62-1/2″ Mustang II crossmember.

Theoretically, you could widen a Mustang II crossmember as much as you wanted… the key is protecting the control arm pivot points and tie rod geometry. When you’re thinking of widening a Mustang II rack, there are two ways to do it properly… outside the bushings and inside the bushings.
‘Outside the bushings’ refers to pushing the tie rod ball and socket joint towards the wheel. This has to be done the same amount as the crossmember is wider than stock – typically 2″ per side on a 4″ wider than stock configuration. Longer tie rod ends can also be used on a 58″ wide crossmember.
‘Inside the bushings’ refers to lengthening the actual rack and rack housing. For a much wider crossmember, this might be a good option… there are even racks available that are wider than stock for this purpose. Your crossmember will have to be set up or modified for a wider rack. Welder Series crossmembers are designed to use rack extenders – the ‘outside the bushing’ method.

On my 1968 D100 truck build, I used a Welder Series 62-1/2″ track width crossmember, with rack extenders from Heidts. I used two (4″ total) on the passenger side, and one (2″ total) on the driver side. Our rack mounts favor the driver side, so the steering input shaft is closer to the frame rail and will be more likely to be aimed away from your headers.

Note: the rack bushings mount with the shoulder against the crossmember, and the serrations biting in to the rack mounts. Use a bolt size washer (included in our #24410 power rack mounting kit) on the front of the bushing, and let the bushing mushroom as you tighten the nut.

Driver side ball & socket joint removed.
Rack extender threaded on (use red locktite!)
Passenger side.
2″ rack extender installed (red locktite applied).
4″ total of rack spacers. This is effectively lengthening the rack.
Install the boots which come in the rack extender kit, and crimp the band clamps.
I used these pliers from my EZ Clip A/C hoses.

D100 Build, Article 4: Rear Bump Stops

I always appreciate a good “reusal” of parts to either change their intended function, or to keep their original function but in a slightly different way. Using body trim tastefully from one model on a different car comes to mind. The reused part needs to fit the theme, however, and not merely look like it was used because it was 8:45 on a Sunday night, and the auto parts store workers were on strike.

In removing the original leaf spring rear suspension on the Sweptline, I ended up taking the bump stops off the frame too. They weren’t lined up with axle centerline, and I decided I could use the space outside the rails where they were sticking out. Also, they were going to be in the space I needed to remove for step notch clearance. I like the piece itself; just not where it was mounted.

After the notches were installed, I started to think about bump stops and remembered I still had the originals, so I cleaned them up, made a few tweaks, and present them to you now!

You can see where the bump stop on the outside of the rail would interfere with the area to be cut out for axle clearance.
I felt the rubber was a bit too hard, so I added (er- took away?) some holes to let the material collapse a bit.
Surprised bump stop is surprised.
The bump stop will be contacting the axle instead of the leaf spring, and since the bracket holding it to the frame was lower than the actual rubber, I had to trim it.
I also cut a little notch in the frame edge of the bracket for water drainage. The sandblaster really cleaned them up, including the rubber!

I won’t be installing them until I have the truck sitting with the Shockwaves fully collapsed so I know where it actually needs to be. They’ll be welded to the inside of the frame rails on the step notch.

If you need new bump stops, Energy Suspension has a bunch of options. Check out this reseller’s listing (I find it easier to search than the official website): http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/universal-bump-stops-shock-eyes.asp