Category: Shop Truck

Progress highlights of our 68 Dodge D100 build.

Overdrive!

I wanted to give a little shout-out, as they say, for the kit that controls my overdrive and torque converter lockup. Here’s the link: https://www.transdepot.net/A518-Lock-Up-Wiring-Instructions-46RH-Only_c_279.html

I was whining to a customer a couple years ago about how high my D100 was revving on the highway. I could barely get to 55 mph and it sounded like an indy car. Maybe I’m exaggerating.

He told me I could add an overdrive transmission to the back of my 318 with “very little work”. Those three words often accompany a lot of work, so I was skeptical. A local transmission shop (Tri City Transmissions in Kitchener) sourced the A518 out of a pre-1995 Dodge pickup, and I got to work installing it. This was happening right before my annual trip to Syracuse, and I found out by doing the swap on my own that transmissions are heavy. You’ll need to move the transmission mount somewhat, but we have some parts for that. Check out the link for a kit that will let you control the overdrive and lockup without a computer. It’s been working flawlessly for a couple years now. Make sure you have consistent vacuum (I had an arcing spark plug wire and it caused a lot of frustration during my first trip).

Let me know if you have any questions about the swap! I’ll see what I can do to remember an answer.

D100 Build: A/C & Heater Hoses

I mounted the drier on the driver side inner fender, near the front. It’s tucked out of the way and offers an easy route for the -6 hose coming out of the condenser.
Doing the robot.
I don’t have any of the hoses tied together yet, but this will be the route they’ll take. Missing from this photo is the heater hose from the water pump.

 

II Much makes these handy anodized aluminum adapters to go from #10 heater hose to -10 EZ-Clip. I used a small section of rubber hose off the water pump, and then will use the Vintage Air reduced diameter hose to match the A/C hoses.
Check out the YouTube video on how to make the connections. It’s really, really easy!
The II Much bulkhead system is one of my favourite parts on this whole truck. I have one more hose to run, then I’ll be able to install the hose separators to really clean it up. It’s designed to fit the EZ Clip hoses, so you’ll have to decide whether you want to run normal heater hose from the water pump & intake up to the bulkhead, then use the adapters to switch to EZ Clip and go through the bulkhead, or run EZ Clip hose all the way from the evaporator to the engine. If you do the latter (my method), keep in mind that the heater control valve needs to be plumbed in the line coming from the intake, but the valve is designed to use normal heater hose. You’ll need to use an adapter before the control valve to convert from -10 to standard heater hose.
I thought there was going to be a fair bit of room under the dash! Get everything mounted that could possibly be an interference point. You can see the charge port on the -10 hose – check with the people who will be charging your system to see if they are ok with having one charge port inside the vehicle and one in the engine compartment.

Here’s a video showing the process of making a connection with the EZ-Clip system:

 

D100: Front brakes

There are a few directions we could have gone for brakes on the D100, but we decided to use our basic Mustang II caliper brackets and a replacement S10 caliper. They’re inexpensive, easy to find, and will serve our purpose well.

CPP has come out with calipers which have a 20% larger piston than the standard GM metric ones, and include pads for a very reasonable price. Here’s a link. They’re nicely powder coated black, and pretty sharp looking!

I put anti-seize on the threads, and Royal Purple assembly lube on the guide pin to help prevent friction.
Our #2125 Mustang II caliper bracket and CPP big bore GM metric caliper.

Rotors are standard Granada discs that you can buy from your local hot rod parts store. I got all these parts from Horton Hot Rod Parts in Milton, ON. I haven’t ran brake lines yet, so I’ll wait to run my flex lines. I’ll likely use a bulkhead fitting to go through the frame rail.

Here is the caliper bracket kit:

D100: Rack Extensions

Here’s a quick bit of info on how we matched the rack to our 62-1/2″ Mustang II crossmember.

Theoretically, you could widen a Mustang II crossmember as much as you wanted… the key is protecting the control arm pivot points and tie rod geometry. When you’re thinking of widening a Mustang II rack, there are two ways to do it properly… outside the bushings and inside the bushings.
‘Outside the bushings’ refers to pushing the tie rod ball and socket joint towards the wheel. This has to be done the same amount as the crossmember is wider than stock – typically 2″ per side on a 4″ wider than stock configuration. Longer tie rod ends can also be used on a 58″ wide crossmember.
‘Inside the bushings’ refers to lengthening the actual rack and rack housing. For a much wider crossmember, this might be a good option… there are even racks available that are wider than stock for this purpose. Your crossmember will have to be set up or modified for a wider rack. Welder Series crossmembers are designed to use rack extenders – the ‘outside the bushing’ method.

On my 1968 D100 truck build, I used a Welder Series 62-1/2″ track width crossmember, with rack extenders from Heidts. I used two (4″ total) on the passenger side, and one (2″ total) on the driver side. Our rack mounts favor the driver side, so the steering input shaft is closer to the frame rail and will be more likely to be aimed away from your headers.

Note: the rack bushings mount with the shoulder against the crossmember, and the serrations biting in to the rack mounts. Use a bolt size washer (included in our #24410 power rack mounting kit) on the front of the bushing, and let the bushing mushroom as you tighten the nut.

Driver side ball & socket joint removed.
Rack extender threaded on (use red locktite!)
Passenger side.
2″ rack extender installed (red locktite applied).
4″ total of rack spacers. This is effectively lengthening the rack.
Install the boots which come in the rack extender kit, and crimp the band clamps.
I used these pliers from my EZ Clip A/C hoses.

D100 Parts List

As we progress through this 1968 Dodge D100 pickup build, you might see a product that catches your fancy… here’s a (fairly) comprehensive list of what we used.

DescriptionSupplierPart #LinkComments
Mustang II front crossmember kitWelder Series219625https://welderseries.ecwid.com/Mustang-II-Crossmember-Kit-for-Coil-Overs-p51209593
Upper control armsRideTech19013699https://www.ridetech.com/product/mustang-ii-strongarm-control-arms-front-upper_19013699/
Lower control armsRideTech19012899https://www.ridetech.com/product/mustang-ii-strongarm-control-arms-front-lower_19012899/
Front boxing platesWelder Series680001https://welderseries.ecwid.com/Front-frame-boxing-plate-1961-71-Dodge-D100-p77777686
Front C NotchWelder Series12202https://welderseries.ecwid.com/Front-C-Notch-Fill-Piece-for-Rack-EA-p51047358For rack bellows clearance.
Rack Extension KitHeidtsMP-039-4http://www.heidts.com/part/4-rack-extension-power-kit-mp-039-4/We added 4" to the passenger side and 2" to the driver side.
Ride height setup toolWelder Series405711https://welderseries.ecwid.com/Right-Height-Vehicle-Set-Up-Tool-PR-p83035424
Front ShockwavesRideTech21140101https://www.ridetech.com/product/universal-shockwave-1000-series/12.8" ride height, 4.1" stroke.
Rear ShockwavesRideTech21150801https://www.ridetech.com/product/universal-shockwave-8000-series/14.6" ride height, 5.2" stroke.
Triangulated rear four linkWelder Series318500https://welderseries.ecwid.com/Triangulated-Rear-Four-Link-Kit-p49926314Lower bars mounted directly under the frame rails.
Rear upper frame bracket boxing plateWelder Series680002https://welderseries.ecwid.com/Upper-Frame-Bracket-for-Triangulated-Four-Link-p51029778
Rear step notch kitWelder Series219707https://welderseries.ecwid.com/Step-Notch-Kit-Universal-PR-p50202433Kit modified to be max. 3.5" above bed floor.
Sway bar kitWelder SeriesWS22740https://welderseries.ecwid.com/Sway-Bar-Kit-Trim-to-Fit-3-4-Bar-p49762034Kit modified: larger outer tube used as upper Shockwave crossmember.
Front wheelsWheel Vintiques12-671204https://www.wheelvintiques.com/all-wheels/16x7-smoothie-primer-5x4-5-5x4-75-bolt-4-backspace.html16x7 Smoothie, 4" backspacing
Front tiresMichelin73391https://www.1010tires.com/Tires/Michelin/Defender/73391225/60R16. I bought them locally (Car Lane Automotive in Guelph). I think I'd go with a slightly shorter sidewall if I was doing it again.
Rear wheelsWheel Vintiques12-7912054https://www.wheelvintiques.com/all-wheels/17-x-9-smthie-5-4-1-2-5-4-3-4bp-bare-5-1-4-quot-b-s.html17x9 Smoothie, 5-1/4" backspacing
Rear tiresMichelin30842http://www.1010tires.com/Tires/Michelin/Premier+LTX275/55R17. These are just about as wide as we could get up in the wheel well. I bought these locally (Car Lane Automotive in Guelph).
A/C System: Gen IV MagnumVintage Air671400-VUZhttps://www.vintageair.com/2017%20Vintage%20Air%20Catalog.pdfEvaporator kit.
Gen IV Magnum mock-up unitVintage Air671450Check your local hot rod parts store.
Under dash control podVintage Air492050https://www.vintageair.com/custom/product-pop.php?pn=492050Lots of control options... this is the basic one.
Dash louversVintage Air49052-VULhttps://www.vintageair.com/custom/product-pop.php?pn=49052-VULI'll use three of these in the dash.
Control knob bezelsVintage Air484178https://www.vintageair.com/custom/product-pop.php?pn=484178
Compressor bracketVintage Air162774-SDAhttps://www.vintageair.com/custom/product-pop.php?pn=162774-SDACompressor/alternator bracket for 318.
CompressorVintage Air047000-SURhttps://www.vintageair.com/custom/product-pop.php?pn=047000-SURDouble V groove, rear exit.
DrierVintage Air07323-VUChttps://www.vintageair.com/custom/product-pop.php?pn=07323-VUCIncludes trinary switch and bracket.
Steering columnididit1130330051https://www.ididitinc.com/i-25048076-33-tilt-column-shift-steering-column-black-powder-coatedUniversal 33" Tilt Column Shift Steering Column - Black Powder Coated
Column dropBorgeson911222https://www.borgeson.com/xcart/product.php?productid=10952" drop, 2-1/4" diameter. I prefer this drop because of the tapered, rounded sides.
Exhaust kitFlowmaster815936https://www.holley.com/products/exhaust/builder_components/universal_pipe_kit/u-fit_dual_exhaustU-Fit Dual Kit, 2.50" 16 pc. Universal Dual Pipe Kit (pipes only), Mandrel Bent Tubing,16 Gauge 409S Stainless Steel Tubing
MufflersFlowmaster12512409https://www.holley.com/products/exhaust/mufflers/laminar_flow_mufflers/super_hp-2_series/standard/parts/12512409Super HP-2, 2.5", 409SS, 12" length. Also check out our YouTube channel for a quick video.
AlternatorPowermaster7294http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/catalog.html100A, natural finish, 12SI

D100 Seat: Update 2

After selecting the fabric from the LeBaron Bonney catalog (direct link) and giving Peter an admittedly vague description of what I was thinking for the seat, I had to accomplish one of the most difficult tasks in building a project: waiting.

Tack Upholstery

I have complete confidence in Peter’s ability to interpret my muddled attempts at describing a finished product, so there was no stress over that. I was more worried about the fabric, since I was the one who picked it, not heeding the advice of even my wife who has an uncanny ability to see color. She has chosen the EXACT color swatch sample from Home Depot three times over a period of about five years. Color doesn’t initially register as an adjective when I’m first looking at a car, for example. Anyways, this seat is AMAZING. Peter used the stock frame which was supplied with the truck (the seat that came installed was from a 1970 Fury 4 door). He refinished, painted, fixed the springs, added new foam… and kept the fabric aligned perfectly. I know it looks a bit purple in the pictures, but it’s actually a nice deep blue.

This is a nice step forward… I can make vroom vroom noises now!

D100 Build, Article 4: Rear Bump Stops

I always appreciate a good “reusal” of parts to either change their intended function, or to keep their original function but in a slightly different way. Using body trim tastefully from one model on a different car comes to mind. The reused part needs to fit the theme, however, and not merely look like it was used because it was 8:45 on a Sunday night, and the auto parts store workers were on strike.

In removing the original leaf spring rear suspension on the Sweptline, I ended up taking the bump stops off the frame too. They weren’t lined up with axle centerline, and I decided I could use the space outside the rails where they were sticking out. Also, they were going to be in the space I needed to remove for step notch clearance. I like the piece itself; just not where it was mounted.

After the notches were installed, I started to think about bump stops and remembered I still had the originals, so I cleaned them up, made a few tweaks, and present them to you now!

You can see where the bump stop on the outside of the rail would interfere with the area to be cut out for axle clearance.
I felt the rubber was a bit too hard, so I added (er- took away?) some holes to let the material collapse a bit.
Surprised bump stop is surprised.
The bump stop will be contacting the axle instead of the leaf spring, and since the bracket holding it to the frame was lower than the actual rubber, I had to trim it.
I also cut a little notch in the frame edge of the bracket for water drainage. The sandblaster really cleaned them up, including the rubber!

I won’t be installing them until I have the truck sitting with the Shockwaves fully collapsed so I know where it actually needs to be. They’ll be welded to the inside of the frame rails on the step notch.

If you need new bump stops, Energy Suspension has a bunch of options. Check out this reseller’s listing (I find it easier to search than the official website): http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/universal-bump-stops-shock-eyes.asp