Category: dear welder series

Paul Horton’s replies to actual tech emails.

Dear Welder Series… stock Mustang II control arms?

Dear Welder Series…
Bought a mustang 2 crossmember kit that takes coil overs last year from your website… Wondering if the mustang 2 stock control arms ( upper and lower) will work….

Dear James…
They will, but it might be hard to find coil-overs that will fit the lower arms, the upper mounts and clear the stamped upper arms.  

The lower arms require a coil-over with a fairly high lower spring seat to clear the stamping. The lower coil-over mount will need some spacers to make up the inside dimension of the arm. The hole in the stock lower arm takes a 7/16” bolt, so it would have to be opened up to the size of the coil-over lower hole.

Our coil-over kit upper mounts are for conventional-style coil-overs that have an “eye” top mount. When you order coil-overs for the stock lower arms, the person filling that order will think you need a coil-over with an upper mount like the stock MII shock, which can be thought of as a threaded extension of the shock shaft. The hardware in our kit is 1/2”, so you should be sure the coil-over upper is for a 1/2” bolt.

The stamped stock uppers are bulkier than tubular ones around the ball joint and I’m not certain that they will clear the coil-over spring when the ball joint is in a low position (as when the frame goes up).

Seemed like a simple question but there is a more involved answer. I hope this helps.

Paul

Dear Paul…
Ok thanks for the fast reply. So I guess I should use tubular control arms… Should I use narrowed ones or the regular ones? As for coil overs what do you recommend to use or brand to go for? And lastly for power rack and pinion, can I use a 78 mustang 2 or is there one you recommend to use with your crossmember?

If I would’ve gotten the other crossmember instead of the coilover ones…  The stock control arms would’ve worked?

Please email me back on to what control arms, power rack, and coil overs i should use for my truck…  

Lastly, I’m driving to Ontario in a few months for a few weeks and visit the folks, I was wondering if I can drop by your shop and drop off a running board bracket to be remanufactured ( I would need 6) and I’m planning to buy a 4 link but don’t exactly know where to start. Would you be able to give me quotes for the bracket?

Thanks a million Paul.

Dear James…
James, the tube arms are more money, but maybe not much more when you add the strut rods, bushing, and gussets. The ride with the tube A-arms will be much smoother. I’ve had both on our ’40 Ford and was amazed at the improvement from a good ride to a great ride. Stock or narrowed arms depend on the brake kit. 

I don’t think it matters whose North American made control arms you use. The ’78 power rack you ask about will be fine. If you have to source one, it will be easier to find a ’79 and newer Fox body power rack. Regarding coil-overs, I suggest you check with Canadian street rod shops to see what their policy is regarding spring exchange, if required. It will be easier to change springs when dealing with a Canadian company rather than with US and Canada Customs. I realize these are general answers but there are several good companies making and/or selling those parts.

I hope this helps, too. Thanks for asking me.

Paul

Dear Paul…
Thank you for the info good Sir! I will swing by your shop soon enough and planning to pick your brains more than I already have! Thank you again

Dear James…
I realize I did’t answer about the running board bracket. I’d need the bracket for a few days while I do a CAD drawing. Then I can quote it.

I’m not at the shop all day, every day anymore. If I know when you plan to come, I’ll be sure to be there or see if another time would suit.

Paul

Dear Welder Series… 1950 Chev Pickup Mustang II?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi! I have a 1950 Chevy 3100 pickup. I decided that I want to run with the mustang II ifs. I won’t be able to buy everything all at once, so I want to start with the crossmember. I want to run bags, so it will sit on the ground. Can you tell me what crossmember is best? Thank you.

Dear Juan…
If you are planning to use conventional bags, use this version: 

 

The airbag people have mounting brackets to fit in the upper towers.

If you plan to use ShockWaves, use this version:

 

If you click on the product you can view some pictures of airbags being used with this crossmember.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts for your pickup, Juan.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… four link frame brackets on the outside?

Dear Welder Series… 
We are a local community college automotive collision repair program, we are building a 1968 C10, and would like to install a rear four link suspension. But we are looking to install it on the outside of the frame rails, to make room a fuel tank. Could you help?

Octavio

Dear Octavio…
Octavio, I just now left a message on your voicemail but want to confirm by email.

The rear 4-link can be installed outside the frame rails if you have 4″ clearance between the frame and the tire. One thing to be aware of is that the frame will likely have to be notched for coil-over clearance if the coil-overs are to be mounted at an angle.

We offer a 10% discount to schools using our parts in their projects.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… 1976 Datsun 260Z Mustang II

Dear Welder Series… 
I’m customizing a 1976 Datsun 260Z for a client. It has an all aluminum Mustang Cobra 32V V8 up front and a narrowed 9″ triangulated 4 link setup in the rear. I want to put something like your Mustang II IFS kit on the front and get rid of the struts so that I can mount a wider torque thrust II wheel to match that back.

The frame rails have a lip that sticks out a little on the bottom facing out, and the width from that outside edge to outside edge is 32″. They are smooth on the inside.

Do you have something that will work for me? If you do, can you send me other dimensions so that I can measure up to make sure everything will fit under the original fenders?

Any help would be appreciated,

Thanks.

Brett

Dear Brett…
Our Mustang II coil spring kits are designed to be installed in almost any frame. What measurement do you want between the wheel mounting surfaces? (Where the wheels are against the rotors…)

What diameter tire will you use on the front?

With the frame at ride height, what is the distance from the ground to the bottom of the frame at the spindle location?

As above to the top of the frame?

With this info, I’ll be able to tell you about installation issues you might run into and suggest ways around them, if necessary.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Thanks for getting back to me.

There are a lot of questions there that I don’t have the answers to yet.

I’ve just finished the back end of the car, so let me measure the front up this weekend and I will get back to you.

Cheers,

Brett.

Dear Brett…
Thanks, Brett. I might be slower getting back to you for the next week or so… There will be days when I’m out of internet access. I’ll try not to keep you off the road too long…

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Here are those numbers!

What measurement do you want between the wheel mounting surfaces? 54″

What diameter tire will you use on the front? Don’t know yet, but to match the rear the center of the front spindle will need to be 12 3/8″ from the ground.

With the frame at ride height, what is the distance from the ground to the bottom of the frame at the spindle location? 11″

As above to the top of the frame? 14″

This car is pretty low, so if we need to go up or down a little, I would prefer to go up a little on the ride height. We have a tri-4-link with coil overs on the back so we can always adjust the back up or down to match whatever the front ends up being.

Cheers,

Brett.

To Be Continued…

Dear Welder Series… 1960 Falcon Pro Touring Front Suspension

A detailed conversation with Mark, who's interested in installing a custom width Mustang II crossmember in his 1960 Falcon pro-touring build.

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Dear Welder Series… brake pedal/clutch for Model A?

Dear Welder Series…
Hey there,
I’m looking to order a pedal assembly but I’m having a hard time finding what I need.  I’m looking for a ready to weld brake pedal/master cylinder kit that includes the clutch pedal that works with a Model A frame.  I remember seeing it on your site some time ago but now I can’t find it.  If you can send me a link or give me some information it would be much appreciated!  Also a price & shipping to Sask would be great.

Thanks guys,
Nathan

Dear Nathan…
There are a couple of ways to do this with Welder Series kits, Nathan. Because the frame is narrow, it’s not easy to have room for the pedals, exhaust, and transmission (and linkage), so we use the kits that move the master a little farther from the frame rail than the Model ‘A’ kit.  Look at the options menu and the pictures. One is at https://welderseries.com/Brake-Pedal-Master-Cylinder-Bracket-32-Ford-p50683993.

Another way is by moving the master cylinder back from the pedals. Again, see the options and the pictures at https://welderseries.com/Booster-Bracket-&-Pedal-Mount-Under-Seat-Mount-p50666963

Lowdown Hotrods mounted the bracket behind a Welder Series transmission mount crossmember, as shown in the thumbnail picture at https://welderseries.com/Formed-Brake-Booster-Bracket-p50737621

Pricing is at each product in the store when you choose from the options menu. Freight is at https://welderseries.com/contact-us/. Shipping prices are as follows: 10% of the order, minimum $15, maximum $60. We use UPS or Canada Post for Canadian shipments.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Thanks for the speedy reply on this!

I think the first link in your reply would be best suited for my needs. It says it’s for a 32 but I think I could make that work. Question though, how does a guy typically mount it to the frame rail? Is it just meant to be butt welded on? Just having trouble visualizing this. Maybe if you had a couple pictures that would help.

Dear Nathan…
The bracket would weld to a boxed section of frame rail.  It would be best to have the body on the frame so you can determine where the pedal will come through the angled toe-board.  If your firewall goes right down to the frame, a slot in the floor might be better.  We can substitute a straight pedal in this case.  https://welderseries.com/Brake-Pedal-Straight-p50755047. Sorry, I don’t seem to have an installed picture.

Paul

Dear Welder Series… ’56 Chevy air ride four link?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul, i have a 56 chevy wagon and know for a fact that because the location of the fuel tank the only way i can place a 4 link in the car is putting the bags in front of the axle. Can i modify this kit to do it and work properly?

Thanks, Gon.

Dear Gon…
The bags will work ahead or behind the axle, but it might be tricky modifying the standard air bag 4-link kit to do this.

Our Rear Four Link Package Kit could be used and the axle bracket could mount the shocks instead of coil-overs. We could produce an air bag bracket that would come off the front of the axle tube, tangent to the top of the tube. This still leaves an issue with Panhard clearance, but you could consider a diagonal locater from the front lower bar bracket to the opposite axle bracket.

I hope these thoughts prime your imagination. Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… 4 link custom bars?

Is it possible to get longer lower bars so I locate the bracket in the same spot as the reinforced part of the frame where the leaf spring hangers were mounted?

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1963 Chevy Mustang II Installed Pics

Sean sent these pictures in of his Chevy II install. Nice work! He used our 56-1/2″ coil-over Mustang II crossmember kit.

Dear Welder Series… which master cylinder?

Dear Welder Series…
Good morning!

I was just wondering if you had a suggested master cylinder to use with your universal under floor brake kit?  Is there one from a specific vehicle that I can pick up from the local parts store?  I have also attached a couple pictures for you of some of your products on my build so far!

Cheers,
Jon

[Jon used some custom length bars on his parallel four link, and our #229000 thru-frame tie rod end mount.]

Dear Jon…
Jon, nice work on your frame! Looks like you have nice facilities, too!

Any GM or Ford master cylinder will fit our brackets, thanks to the slightly elongated mounting holes. Corvette master cylinders are low profile so work nicely in many street rod projects. Be sure to check the street rod shops for them. We found more bore sizes were available and the price was good.

Thanks for the pictures! (And for using our parts.)

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… No Door Mustang II?

Dear Welder Series…
Hello from so-cal! do you want to make a lot of people happy? please make a mustang 2 crossmember kit for our 61-67 ford econoline vans and trucks! these things wander all over the road when lowered, and are a handful to drive. one problem is steering column ends up in front of the axle, but with a direction changer from a Toyota vanwagon this could be fixed. please, please consider this project as no one else is making one. if you would like to look at my van, you can google “kurt bohne’s nodoor” or econowest van gatherings at the rosebowl thank you, kurt

Dear Kurt…
Hi, Kurt. I like making people happy. Your NoDoor is a good looking van. We no longer build cars or do installation work, so developing a kit specifically for the axle series Econoline vans would not be an in-house option. We do produce custom parts to drawings/sketches provided by builders. This would be something we could do to help you.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts and thinking about us for your project. Please let me know if we can work on this with you.
Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… X Frame Four Link?

Dear Welder Series…
Hello,

I know your product is universal but am wondering if you know of, or have experience with using this on an “X-Frame” car. I have a 1957 Cadillac which is an “X-frame” that I’m considering using your kit on. I thought I might as well ask to see if you have any info. Thanks!

Dear Alex…
Thanks for asking, Alex. I don’t have any experience with the x-frame Cadillacs, but from the pictures on the internet, it looks like a big job. The rear 4-link installation sheets, for the parallel and triangulated kits, are on our webstore below the description of the kits.

https://welderseries.com/Rear-Four-Link-Kit-Parallel-p51428446
https://welderseries.com/Triangulated-Four-Link-Kit-p49926314

Using them, you might be able to see where the frame mounts could be put and what interference points there will be.

Sorry I can’t give a more specific answer, but thanks for considering Welder Series parts for your project.
Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… four link for towing?

Dear Welder Series…
Can these be used on a crew cab dually that will be doing some towing up to 10,000 lbs? Also is the hole cut big enough to fit over a 14 bolt which I believe is larger than most street axle tubes??

Dear Corey…
Corey, we make parts for street rods/hot rods and I feel our kits are overbuilt. But I don’t know where their limit is. I might try this if it was my own project, but I won’t suggest you do our R&D. The axle brackets are built for a 3″ diameter tube. They can be opened up for the larger Ford tubes.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul

Dear Welder Series… Crown Vic motor mounts?

Dear Welder Series…
I am putting a 351m in a 2003 crown vic front suspension, any sugestions on motor mounts?

Dear Vern…
Vern, our Ford mounts are for blocks that have 2 vertical mounting holes on 7″ centers. If your block is like this, either kit will work well.

https://welderseries.com/Ford-Engine-Mounts-Urethane-Bushed-p51163312
https://welderseries.com/Ford-Engine-Mounts-Rubber-Insulated-p51163328

I hope this helps.
Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… LS engine mounts: ours or theirs

Here is your kit and the USA kit- just trying to see the price difference of $40.00 ($130.00 canadian for the US kit), plus the difference in extra tax ($20.00). They look about the same? Do you make yours there or bring in from USA?

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