Paul Horton’s replies to actual tech emails.
Dear Welder Series…
Hello,
I am emailing to find out if you have a Chevy V8 mount kit that will work in a 1956 Chevy pickup truck.
Thanks,
Jase
Dear Jase…
Jase, either of our Chev motor mount kits will work in your ’56. The frame brackets must be trimmed to put the engine at the height you want.
Check these products out:Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Dear Welder Series…
Will the MII hub to hub IFS for a 1928-31 fit on a 2×3 rectangular frame? Also what is the min and max width it will fit. I’m building a 1927 full fendered Ford.
Thanks
Dear Howard…
Howard, our Model ‘A’ Mustang II crossmember (below),is designed to fit a stock or reproduction Model ‘A’ frame. The crossmember takes into account the tapers in the stock dimensions of the Ford frame. The upper spring towers weld to the outside of the frame and to the top of the crossmember “wings”. The nominal dimension at spindle centerline is 26″. There wouldn’t be much more tolerance than +/- 1/2″ on that.
I hope this helps.
Dear Welder Series…
I am building an old school Jeep CJ5. I can’t find any aftermarket frames or frame parts anywhere. What are the chances you are going to start making some? How about a 1955 CJ5 frame kit? The CJ5 frame is the same from 1955 to 1971. Thank you for your time. I have found so much street rod stuff that is going to be Jeep stuff. You guys rock! Maybe look into the off-road market… I am going to use your motor mounts, body mounts, brackets, tabs, unholes… I have found so many uses for your parts.
Dear Kerry…
Thanks, Kerry. I’m happy you found Welder Series parts that you can use on your Jeep. Our parts are quite adaptable!We don’t have any plans to build Jeep frames or parts that would be specifically for Jeeps. Sorry.
Thanks for looking at welderseries.com.
I need to know if your universal triangulated or 4 link parallel would work on my 1969 F-100.
Dear Kep…
Kep, I’m happy that you found us now instead of three years from now…For Mustang II arms, check with some of the companies on our “Dealers/Builders” page, http://welderseries.com/blog/dealers-builders/ .Send us your mailing address and we will get a catalog on the way to you. The parts themselves don’t know what they are… Welder Series came to be because when we were building hot rods, we would often want to use a component from some kit in an application I hadn’t thought of when designing it. Sort of “imagineering”.Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Dear Welder Series…
Hi, I contacted you last year before Christmas sometime and was going to order up a rear 4 link with air bag brackets. Since then things have changed and now I will be doing the same thing but with a smaller axle. It is the gm 8.5″ from an S10. The axle tube dimension is less than what your brackets are cut for. Do you have a different axle bracket to fit the smaller axle tube diameter? Or do you have a suggestion for my problem?
thanks,
Dennis
Dear Dennis…
Builders have used a short length of tubing, 3″ O.D. and the same I.D. as your axle tube, as a bushing. Split the tube into 2 “C” halves. This will make up the difference in the axle to bracket diameter. It will also spread the load over a wider area for more strength.Thanks for asking, Dennis.
Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul,
Dear Dennis…
I have a similar bracket that was designed for the Ford F1 truck. One bar mounts just above the bottom of the frame rail and the other is lower. Will check it out when I get a few minutes.Thanks for asking.
Paul
Dear Welder Series…
I have a 68 Chevy c10 pickup that I would like to replace the trailing arms w an adjustable 4 link setup using a Chevy 10 bolt rear. I would like to delete the Panhard bar also.
What do you recommend? Do you have a complete kit with shocks and springs?
Thanks Chris
Dear Chris…
If you want to eliminate the Panhard bar, our triangulated kit would be a good way to go, Chris. Check out the product below for details.If your GM 10 bolt rear end has the ears on the differential case, you could look at this product.
I’d suggest the big bushing kit.
Sorry, we don’t sell coil-overs.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Dear Welder Series…
I have a 1952 Ford Mainline I am looking for a kit for the front end of this bad boy. I want to airbag the front at the end of the day. Do you have a kit for this. Thanks for your time Mike
Dear Mike…
Mike, putting a Mustang II in this frame requires cutting out the stock frame in the area of the upper and lower control arms and replacing that section with rectangular tubing. Then mount the MII to this tubing. There are some pic of this being done athttp://welderseries.com/?s=Mustang+II+install+pics .
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Dear Welder Series…
I have purchased your Mustang II Crossmember kit for my 1948 Ford Tudor sedan. I’m using the factory X-frame, at the front section where I am to install the crossmember there are the original frame holes. My question is do I have to box in the frame rails or can I plug weld to fill the holes? I’ve attached a picture of my frame. Where the rubber stops are located is where the holes are inside of the frame rails. The frame is already “boxed”.
The frame was upside down when taken.
Please let me know.
Thank you,
Tony
Dear Tony…
Tony, we just cut out some circles and filled the holes in the stock boxing plates.Good question.
Dear Welder Series…
Hey DW
Do you have caliper brackets for early Ford spindles?
Thanks Ross
Dear Ross…
Sorry, Ross, we don’t make early Ford brake brackets.Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Dear Welder Series…
I have a 1980 MGB and am installing a narrowed Ford 8.8 rear-end. I have a leaf spring original rear suspension and want to install a 4-link to my 8.8, with coil over shocks. Can you help me?
Dave
Dear Dave…
Dave, our parallel rear 4-link kit could be used with a Panhard bar kit (both shown below).If your 8.8 has the ears on the case for the stock triangulated upper bars, this product can be used:
This is a fairly new kit that has special brackets for the 8.8″ upper bushings. The upper bars have to be cut to length and then the bracket gets welded to the bar. This allows for different frame widths.
The WS222501 and the WS318588 each costs $340.00. The welded versions cost $390.00. The Panhard kit costs $93.00 ready to weld and $115.00 welded.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul. Re your Mustang II Crossmember kit. Could I just buy the coilover and upper A arm adjustment box and cut my old shock/spring tower off? Could I retain my lower stock A arm set up and just shorten my existing upper A arms? I’m trying to salvage some of what I have and clean it up so it looks good. If I have to spend too much on making this work then I may just go for a Pete and Jake’s dropped front axle. Thanks, Ian.
Dear Ian…
Ian, all Welder Series parts are available individually because we want to be able to look after builders who have their own imagination at work.You will have to decide if you want to shorten the stock upper and lower arms. It feels like there could be clearance issues with them.
Consider getting the Model ‘A’ Mustang II kit (below) and using your existing stock parts to have the car rolling. ??
Dear Welder Series…
I just purchased a 1966 Chevy C10 and want to upgrade the front end. I was wondering if your 60” Mustang II cross member would work?
I searched your archives but could not find where anyone had inquired about this in the past. I can’t believe I could be the first with so many folks restoring the 1960-1966 Chevy trucks. The best option thus far is to install a 1974-1987 front end but you do not get the rack and pinion steering setup.
Thanks for the help.
Danny
Dear Danny…
Danny, the Mustang II does not adapt easily to your truck series. Sorry, we don’t have a front end kit for you.Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Dear Welder Series…
Hi I’m building a custom frame I want to run a Mustang ll I like how you sell them and I plan on buying one from you my question is if running air springs and a 24 inch diameter wheel how high should the frame rails be from the ground and with 6 inches of ground clearance I want the rockers of the car to sit on the ground, like I said its custom so the frame rails can be placed anywhere. Also do you have a laser cutter or are you farming out your cuts, the reason I’m asking I have some custom shaped frame rail ideas and I like the idea of cutting and welding the shapes I want, would custom cuts be something you would be interested in doing for me? Thanks for any help and could I bother you for a catalog? I can’t see any of your products on the web site the pics are black or digital mess ..
Tom
Dear Tom…
Tom, the frame height should be mocked up once you have the wheels and tires you will use. Then our install sheets walk you through how to cut the crossmember and upper towers so the frame will be where you want it with weight on the tires.We work with a local laser cutter who understands what we are looking for in street rod products. We do custom work regularly and would be happy to quote on your drawings or sketches.
We’re working on the web store images… sorry for the inconvenience.
Dear Welder Series…
Hi there
I’m working on figuring out ride height and road clearance for my 51 Chevy if I use your MII set up and have a few questions, hoping you can assist.
1. For your MII front crossmember, what is the distance from the underside of the chevy frame to the bottom of the crossmember and what should a reasonable /safe clearance below the crossmember to the road be?
2. What is the distance from the spindle centerline to the underside of the crossmember. (assuming 2” drop spindle)
I am trying to determine from this what size wheel/tire size should be.
3. For the rear suspension, triangulated 4 link kit or individual pieces, can you please clarify the dimensions of your bars so I can figure out where they will attach to my frame?.
Your drawing indicates the lower bar should be 27-1/8 from the axle centerline but you list a 27-7/8 bar and then 23-1/8 bar and nothing in between.
Are dimensions nominally center to center on the bushings? Or center of bushing to edge of notch?
4. The upper bar should attach about 15 from the axle centerline according to your drawing so I want to see where that would end up mounting on the axle.
Can you clarify roughly what angle in plan view the upper bars are relative to the axle or roughly what length the upper bars are so I can figure out where they will sit and if that is similar to your drawing showing the bars 2-1/8 above the axle centerline?
Thanks very much for your assistance.!!
Steve
Dear Steve…
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts for your project, Steve.I suggest you choose the tire size that you feel is best for your project, rather than work from ground clearance up. Our crossmember can be notched to accommodate the ride height you want with the tire size you choose.
I’m going to duck the ground clearance question… This depends on the roads you travel as well as possible laws in your area. NSRA has a practical suggestion with their scrub line definition. This is defined at http://www.dmv.state.pa.us/
pdotforms/pub_45/appendix.pdf . Some areas say the line should be drawn from wheel rim to wheel rim and no suspension component should below that line.With a 2″ dropped spindle, it is 7-1/4″ from spindle c/l to the bottom of our crossmember.
The dimensions on the triangulated rear 4-link installation sheets are correct. The assumption is that you know where the axle centerline is but don’t know where our axle bracket locates the urethane bushing. The bar length is from the center of the urethane bushing tube to the threaded end of the bar. The adjuster is not included in this length. Add 1-3/4″ for the large bushing adjuster. Note that the lower bar for the triangulated kit is the 23-1/8″ bar. (The 27-7/8″ bar is 7/8″ diameter and is used in our universal rear Panhard kit and the hiboy front 4-link kit.)
The frame brackets for the upper bars will likely have to be trimmed to the angle suited to your frame width and rear axle.
Thanks for these questions. I hope this info, and the install sheets online help you.
