Dear Welder Series…
I’m building a 1930 Model A on boxed ’30 frame. I want to use your flat crossmember in order to use a 1936 wishbone with the spring forward of the axle.
I want to know if I can place your flat crossmember in front of the stock cross member in order that I may keep the original design, i.e. radiator and fenders etc…??
Has anyone done this before??
I want the car as low as possible and the use of the intact ’36 wishbone. I intend on using cross rack steering and need the clearance as well.
Thanks,
Mike
Dear Mike…
Thanks for looking at Welder Series’ parts.
Our flat front crossmember is designed for a 1-3/4″ wide spring, like the 1928-34 Ford. The ’36 Ford used a 2″ wide front spring, so it will not fit in our crossmember. The ’36 spring is longer than the Model ‘A’ spring, so it can’t be adapted to the ’36 stock wishbone, either.
The ’36 axle will be a little wide to let you get the front end low. (The tires will be out at the edge of the fenders.) You might want to mock up your parts to see how it looks before buying any parts. The standard way to get a Model ‘A’ low is to use a 46″ dropped axle with a reversed eye spring with a low arch.
I hope this helps.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Thanks Paul…….I already have the 31″ 1 3/4 reverse eye spring with a 6″ arc, now I need the 46″ axle. I wanted to use the 1936 wishbone unsplit but I guess I will have to split it after all.
Thanks again,
Mike
Dear Mike…
Mike, you might be able to use the wishbone unsplit and just cut off the spring perch extensions. The spring would mount above the axle.
Paul
Dear Welder Series…
YES, that’s what I intend on doing I just have to find the widest perch possible on the “I” beam. The wishbone is 39.5″ apart and the “I” beam I have is 36″ and I have a feeling that the 46″ axle will also have around 36″ between bosses. Maybe I can bend the wishbone to match the bosses when I get the 46″ axle.
Worse scenario is splitting the wishbone…………..
Since I have you online, do you guys sell “X” crossmember for the model A frame? I need something for my 4L60 transmission to bolt onto. I’m running a 283 cu. in. motor as well and will also need the motor mounts to weld to the frame and attach to the motor, side mounts.
I have a 1930 model A frame that is completely stepped up and boxed. I have a center cross member but I would like to reinforce the frame a little more and have the setup to bolt on the brake pedal, etc..
Thanks again,
Mike
Dear Mike…
Mike, most 46″ axle perch centers are about 34-1/2″. You should be able to bring the wishbone in to match the 46″ axle perches. Make sure the ball stays in the center.
We don’t have a Model ‘A’ x-member. Check Dagel’s https://dagels.com/super-x-crossmember-kit/. Welder Series does have Chev motor mounts.
Welder Series carries two varieties of parallel Model A rear four bar kits. The only difference in the two kits is the frame brackets; the kit for stock-style frames incorporates the tapered rear frame rail, while keeping the bar mounting holes vertical. Kits now use the larger 1-3/4" wide urethane bushings and 3/4-16 threaded adjusters. Kits are supplied in both welded and ready to weld versions. In the ready to weld kit, the customer is responsible for all the welding.
18505
This kit is designed for Model ‘A’ Fords with the frame rail tapered from a side view. Many repro frames also incorporate this taper (Total Cost Involved, Brookville, Pete & Jake’s, and others). The bars mount below and outside the frame rail. The frame bracket holes will be about 25-1/2″ ahead of the rear axle centerline. This will clear TANKS saddle tanks. Rear axle brackets have 3 mounting holes for the coil-overs. Bars are 1″ heavy-wall seamless mechanical tubing, tapped one end 3/4-16 RH and notched for the 21309 tube on the other end.
211950
This kit is designed for aftermarket frames using rectangular tubing rails without a taper. The bars mount below and outside the frame rail. The frame bracket holes will be about 25-1/2″ ahead of the rear axle centerline. This will clear TANKS saddle tanks. Formed rear axle brackets have 3 mounting holes for the coil-overs. Bars are 1″ heavy-wall seamless mechanical tubing, tapped one end 3/4-16 RH and notched for the #21309 tube on the other end.
Both kits include: Bars, adjusters, frame brackets (with support plate), axle brackets, bushings, and hardware.
Click here to view installation instructions.
Grant Schwartz uses a slightly modified version of this kit on F100 pickups... he notches the bars to kick the axle brackets outside the rails, then mounts the coilovers to the side of the frame.
Our Model ‘A’ manual brake pedal is at:
I hope we can help with your project.
Paul Horton