Booster or No Booster?
If you can’t decide whether to run power brakes or not, or if you just want to experiment like we did, just run braided lines to the master cylinder from the frame. It’s a heck of a lot easier to lower the master cylinder – you don’t have to open the system to check levels. Just unbolt the master and presto whammo, your cylinder is as free as a duck without a leg tag.
If I wanted to use braided lines to go from the master cyl. to the GM style metering/proportioning valve, could I do that???? The brake & clutch are firewall mounted. I wouldn’t need banjo bolts, I would think??
Mike, I think Paul Barber/Horton Hot Rod Parts has all of the fittings and hose to do this. The master cylinder and the GM valve would all be inverted flare (??), so Paul would just need to know the thread size. Either adapter fittings from I.F. to -3 or banjo fittings could be used at the master cylinder.
Hey guys … I used braided lines on my project too. Keep in mind that for some reason, only the lines that feed the calipers (from the hard-line) and usually the drop down line for the rear brakes, are DOT approved. I used the adapter fittings and NOT banjo bolts on mine. I ran SS braided lines the whole length and made sure to clamp them every 8″ or so to keep the flex of the pulsations down to a minimum. I used -3AN lines for the discs and -4AN for the drum rears. Looks nice!
Jeff, I just ran braided lines to the frame rail, then hard lines the rest of the way to each wheel, where it changes to flex lines again.