Dear Welder Series…
I’m building a 1930 Model A on boxed ’30 frame. I want to use your flat crossmember in order to use a 1936 wishbone with the spring forward of the axle.
I want to know if I can place your flat crossmember in front of the stock cross member in order that I may keep the original design, i.e. radiator and fenders etc…??
Has anyone done this before??
I want the car as low as possible and the use of the intact ’36 wishbone. I intend on using cross rack steering and need the clearance as well.
Thanks,
Mike
Dear Mike…
Thanks for looking at Welder Series’ parts.
Our flat front crossmember is designed for a 1-3/4″ wide spring, like the 1928-34 Ford. The ’36 Ford used a 2″ wide front spring, so it will not fit in our crossmember. The ’36 spring is longer than the Model ‘A’ spring, so it can’t be adapted to the ’36 stock wishbone, either.
The ’36 axle will be a little wide to let you get the front end low. (The tires will be out at the edge of the fenders.) You might want to mock up your parts to see how it looks before buying any parts. The standard way to get a Model ‘A’ low is to use a 46″ dropped axle with a reversed eye spring with a low arch.
I hope this helps.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Thanks Paul…….I already have the 31″ 1 3/4 reverse eye spring with a 6″ arc, now I need the 46″ axle. I wanted to use the 1936 wishbone unsplit but I guess I will have to split it after all.
Thanks again,
Mike
Dear Mike…
Mike, you might be able to use the wishbone unsplit and just cut off the spring perch extensions. The spring would mount above the axle.
Paul
Dear Welder Series…
YES, that’s what I intend on doing I just have to find the widest perch possible on the “I” beam. The wishbone is 39.5″ apart and the “I” beam I have is 36″ and I have a feeling that the 46″ axle will also have around 36″ between bosses. Maybe I can bend the wishbone to match the bosses when I get the 46″ axle.
Worse scenario is splitting the wishbone…………..
Since I have you online, do you guys sell “X” crossmember for the model A frame? I need something for my 4L60 transmission to bolt onto. I’m running a 283 cu. in. motor as well and will also need the motor mounts to weld to the frame and attach to the motor, side mounts.
I have a 1930 model A frame that is completely stepped up and boxed. I have a center cross member but I would like to reinforce the frame a little more and have the setup to bolt on the brake pedal, etc..
Thanks again,
Mike
Dear Mike…
Mike, most 46″ axle perch centers are about 34-1/2″. You should be able to bring the wishbone in to match the 46″ axle perches. Make sure the ball stays in the center.
We don’t have a Model ‘A’ x-member. Check Dagel’s https://dagels.com/super-x-crossmember-kit/. Welder Series does have Chev motor mounts.
Clamp plate & u-bolt eliminator kit, for 1928-34 Ford repro front crossmembers with a transverse spring. Eliminating the u-bolts reduces the chance of chipping the paint when installing the u-bolts. Tabs get welded to the front crossmember. These tabs can be left flat or they can be made stronger by bending the ends. Simply put the tab in a vise and use an adjustable wrench to make the bend. Repro front springs usually have fewer leaves than the original, making them thinner. The clamp plate spacer gets welded to the base plate to make up the extra thickness so the clamping action is on the spring leaf, not on the crossmember.
Notes about stock springs / crossmembers: The u-bolt eliminator kit will work with a stock 1-3/4″ wide spring. It will likely be necessary to remove some leave so the clamp plate will be fairly close to the tabs when the bolts are tightened. Reproduction crossmembers are very close to 2-3/8″ where the spring sits in the center (measured front to back) and is flat and solid on the front and rear faces (as shown in these photos). As some stock crossmembers have a lip rolled towards the motor and large holes for the u-bolts to pass through, they would require some trimming and filling to provide the 2-3/8″ dimension and a solid mounting surface for the tabs.
Click here to see an assembly article in HOTROD magazine.
WS15710, 15710
Our Model ‘A’ manual brake pedal is at:
I hope we can help with your project.
Paul Horton