Dear Welder Series… 1950 Studebaker Four Link?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi I’m going to narrow the frame on my 50 studebaker car so I can pro street it which would you recommend a 4 link with a panhard bar or a triangulated 4 link without the panhard I like the triangulated better but I’m not sure which is stronger the car is putting out around 350 to 400 H.P.
Thanks Jim

Dear Jim…
Jim, there’s not much difference, strength wise, between the parallel and the triangulated kits. If you don’t want or need the adjustments of the Pro/Street kit, I’d suggest you go with the kit you like best.

The parallel kit is easier to install and easier to adjust because the Panhard does the left-to-right without changing the pinion angle or the  squareness of the rear end to the frame centerline. The Panhard might be fairly short, depending on how narrow the frame is. You could use the 2184 kit to keep the bar as long as possible.

The triangulated kit is less money, because there’s no Panhard to buy. You might consider running the upper bars from just inside the frame to a crossmember above the driveshaft. Weld the kit’s upper bar frame brackets to this crossmember. This will give more stability to the upper triangulation.

In either case, since the car will be Pro/Street, you should consider adding a gusset to the lower bar bracket.
I hope this helps with your decision. Please ask if you have other questions.

Dear Welder Series…
Thanks for answering my e-mail only I’m not sure about the gusset to the lower bar bracket you mentioned is there anyplace on the website with a photo?
Also I’m guessing the car is going to weigh  around 3,000 lbs. estimated. Is there a specific triangulated 4 bar kit for that size of a car?
Thanks again Jim

Dear Jim…
There aren’t pictures of the lower bracket gusset. This is just a suggestion if you plan to beat on the car with stickier tires.
The 318500 kit (shown above) is a versatile triangular rear 4-link that would work fine.

Thanks for getting back to me.

Paul Horton

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