| Weatherstripping All gaps are not created equal. Having said that, once I decided which weatherstrip profile to use, the job itself was rather simple. |
 You’ll have to start with your doors hung and latched. To determine the size of the gap, I used what I’ve been telling people to use for years, but never had the opportunity to do it myself: playdough. Do I have to put a letter C in a circle after that word? Actually, I didn’t use playdough. I used Sticky Tack. Man, what’s the generic word for stuff that’s pliable and somewhat sticky and holds posters to the wall? From now on, it shall be called “Silly Putty”. Oh, never mind. |
 Roll the Nameless Wonder-Goop Door Gap Replicator (don’t worry, I don’t require a Registered Trademark symbol) into a ball, and set it in the place you want to measure. |
 Close the door all the way. |
 When you open the door, you’ll be left with a positive mold of the door gap that you can use to see which weatherstrip profile will work best. |
 I got one of Soffseal’s sample packs and compared each sample with my Nameless Wonder-Goop Door Gap Replicator. |
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 It turns out I was able to use one of their smallest profiles on both the door and the body. I like this, because I have weatherstrip sealing against weatherstrip. This profile fit the edge around the door opening perfectly. |
 In this picture, you’re also able to see the courtesy light I installed in the bottom of the door. At night, it will illuminate the ground as you’re getting out of the car. You never know what will be waiting in the hotel parking lot. |