Contact/ Shipping Info

74 Comments

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info@welderseries.com

Greetings from Welder Series World Headquarters in the thriving metropolis of Breslau, Ontario, Canada!  You’ve made your way to our website – a collection of articles on tech information, how we got to where we are now (our history), company news, and a series of over 50 articles chronicling the build of a ‘32 Ford coupe and a ’68 Dodge pickup, too.

Across the top of the page, there are also some links that will lead you to more information including testimonials and a page which shows who you can buy Welder Series parts from in your area (Click here to find Welder Series parts near you).

If this is your first foray into the Welder Series corner of the Internet, you could also check out our web store. The blog is where most of the action happens, but the web store gets updated with new products regularly too.

Thanks very much for the time you’ve spent with us so far. I hope you’ll bookmark us and do some more “blogsploring”.

Phone:
(toll-free) 1-888-648-2150
(local) 1-519-648-2150

Address:
244 Woolwich St S
Unit 4
Breslau, Ontario, Canada
N0B 1M0

Hours:
Long and irregular. Please confirm that we will be here before coming.
If you’d like to stop in to pick up parts or browse the shelves, please call ahead. Planned variations on these hours will be on our website or answering machine.

Ordering from the lower 48 States?

Even though we’re in Canada, we ship to the US every day via UPS. It’s such a smooth process that you probably wouldn’t know your parts came from Canada unless you looked at the label! We have been sending parts south for over ten years, and have sorted out the customs procedure so that it’s seamless and normalized. You will never pay UPS; they will only ask you for a signature. Shipping outside the lower 48 will incur additional fees.

Our shipping policy ensures that you know exactly how much your parts will cost, delivered to your door, before you order them. It’s pretty simple to calculate: $10 base rate, plus 10% of your order, minimum $15 maximum $75. It doesn’t matter how many boxes or how much they weigh, you know the shipping charge. Again, this is all you’ll pay for shipping. You won’t be charged shipping on any back orders either, rare as they are.

Ordering from the Provinces of Canada?

The same shipping policy as above applies to orders shipped to the provinces of Canada. Depending on the size and weight of the package, your order may be shipped by UPS, Purolator, CanPar, FedEx, or Canada Post Expedited. NWT, YT, NU, and some rural areas will incur an additional fee tacked on by the courier. Check this table to see if your postal code is on the UPS Extended Area Surcharge list.

Zip CodeCity, StateBusiness Days in Transit
13403Marcy, NY2
22958Porter, TX4
32065Orange Park, FL4
32333Havana, FL5
37073Greenbrier, TN3
44511Youngstown, OH3
55347Eden Prairie, MN 3
63385Wentzville, MO3
70433Covington, LA4
89506Reno, NV5
98632Longview, WA5
J7V 8P2 Vaudreuil Dorion, QC1
V0E 2X2Tappen, BC5

Ordering from outside the U.S.A. and Canada?

We’d be happy to provide a shipping quote based on the weight and size of the box your parts will ship in. Please send us an email describing what parts you’re interested in, as well as where we’d be shipping them. We ship outside N. America using UPS. If you go through our web store, the international shipping price will come up as $50. This isn’t an exact shipping charge- we’ll package up your order and give you an accurate shipping quote within a few days. It may be more or less than $50 depending on which option you select.

Exchange Rate

Prices on the web store are automatically converted and shown in the currency of the country you’re currently in. If you are in the US, your bank will seamlessly complete the conversion at the time your card is charged. It’s beneficial for Americans to purchase parts from Canada – you’re getting ~25% off the C$ catalog price! If you have any questions about the currency conversion process, please use the email link at the top of this page, or give us a call.

Looking forward to helping with your project,

DW Horton
Welder Series Inc.

74 comments

  1. Brian Noller says:

    I am buying a 1962 Fairlane to build for my wife. I didn’t see any on your list. I believe that the track width should be the same as the early mustangs, falcons, and comets. I don’t have the car yet so I can’t measure anything. Your help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

    • Juergen Kratzer says:

      Hello!

      I have a Dodge D100 1966!

      I made a 5.7 Hemi Swap and an Crown Vic front end in it,at last i want made the rear suspension!

      Do you have a hole Kit with everything i need for the Truck?! Also the right coils with springs (coilover) ?!

      Please tell me the price incl shipping to Europe/Austria Zip 4850 !

      Thank you

      Regards

      Juergen Kratzer

  2. Kerry Seiler says:

    I would like to get pricing on SKU WS318600 kit with substitutions. I would like to substitute the upper arms and brackets that are in this kit for the upper arms and brackets that fit on a GM rear end with the upper mounts.
    Thanks kerry

  8. Jamie Walters says:

    Hello
    I want to order one your universal sway bar kits 46″ with 12″ arms. When I put it in my basket it shows me two prices. One I assume is CA dollars and one US dollars. When I go to pay with Paypal it charges me the larger CA amount instead of the US dollars. For eg. my order should be 241.70 USD, but it charges me 323.00 Can you help me with this, I need the kit asap. Thank you

    • DW says:

      Hi Don. We don’t do an inline 6 engine mount, but that could change… I’m not sure what sort of timeline to put on it, but it is something that we’ve talked about. I’ll contact you if/when we start making them to see if you’re still in need of mounts. Thanks for asking.
      DW

  10. Mark says:

    Hi, looking for a triangulated 4-link setup for my 1980 MGB, heard You were the people to talk to, Thanks for Your time, Mark

  11. Matt Pugh says:

    hey just wondering if you make a parallel 4-link setup for a chev 14 bolt axle? (its a 3 3/8″diameter tube) or am I better off just grinding it out the extra 3/8″? thanks

    • DW says:

      Hi Matt, thanks for your question. You’re right – hogging out the axle hole in the bracket would be the most cost-effective solution. It would just be 3/16″ on the diameter.
      Thanks
      DW Horton

  12. Jeff says:

    Hello, I have a 69 camaro and was wondering what kit would work for my car. Also do you have a torque arm kit that could be used on a 69 camaro. Thank

  15. Devin Lambeth says:

    I have a couple questions to run by you about some custom mounts and their positions. If you could please email me.

  16. Dan tharp says:

    I’m looking for a step notch kit for a 1986 f150. Putting a 1955 body on it. Do you have a kit that will work. I need about 6 inchs. Thanks

  17. Frank Hagar says:

    Looking to buy mustang 2 with air bags for 1950 international L130 in canada what can you help me with , thank you very much

    • DW says:

      Hi Frank, thanks for your note. Here’s a link to a blog post regarding a 1951 International: . We recommended a 60″ track width kit for that truck.

      Thanks
      DW Horton

  18. Steve Gullickson says:

    I have a question concerning your thru frame hair pin mounts . Have you ever seen them used on rear radius rods with a single front mount?

    • DW says:

      Hi, Steve. I haven’t seen them used in that type of rear suspension. But I believe our through-frame mount would be stronger than any other tie rod end mount. The amount of support for the tapered stud, from the large area of the tapered stud to the button head is 2”, so actually wider than for any tapered hole bracket.

      I hope this answers your question, but please expand on it if I missed your point.

      Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
      Paul Horton

      • Steve Gullickson says:

        Thanks for your reply Paul . You answered my question. I want to use your mount for my rear radius rods like I stated and use a tie rod for the end link for strength. I also want to hide all of it by mounting the tie rod on the inside of the frame so all that would be seen is the button head bolt on the oitside. When I get it all fabed up I can send you all a picture for your Web site if you like.

        Steve

  19. Paul Anderson says:

    I have a 1949 international kb1. I would like to use coil springs and the mustang 2. I think it would take the 60 inch track. Is this correct? What would be the total cost shipped to Winnipeg? Do you offer welding of the basic member? Thanks

    • DW says:

      Paul, There are 2 frames for KB1’s, according to my info, 28” and 30” outside width. With either of these frames, I’d widen the frame outside dimension by adding tubing so the 60” kit has more frame surface to weld to. Read through the installation sheets at https://shared-assets.adobe.com/link/17afad9a-b219-4191-7cfb-7ee4bfa6277c?file=Coil%20Spring%20Mustang%20II.pdf and I think you’ll see what I mean. (30” frame outside doesn’t give any surface on top of the frame for the upper tower to weld to.)

      Here is a link to the web store page for the Mustang II: http://welderseries.com/-p51209443. There are other parts there that you might need, too, and some videos.

      The 60-1/2” kit, welded, including freight and sales tax would total C$346.50. (That’s Canadian Dollars…)

      Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts for your project.
      Paul Horton

    • DW says:

      Jesse, a lot depends on the tires you are running and how you plan to beat on things. We build parts for street rods and feel they are top quality. A parallel rear 4-link kit does not give the same traction advantage that a race-type, non-parallel 4-link does. Freight from our door to yours is 10% of the order with a minimum charge of $15 and a maximum charge of $60.

  21. Josh says:

    I have never had 3D printing done. I am looking to have a badge done with our family name for the interior a a 47 Stiudebaker truck I am building. What do you need from me in terms of design details? Do I just give you dimensions and font style i would like, then you design it in CAD? Thank you!

    • DW says:

      Hi Josh, thanks for writing. We don’t do any 3D CAD work here, but can print .stl files that you would send us. Otherwise, I can have someone local do the CAD to your specs.
      It will be easier to discuss further via email: info@welderseries.com

      Thanks!
      DW Horton

  22. Jesse says:

    Wondering if you guys build engine mounts for a dodge big block, its going in a 1966 polara. It has a welded in k member not removable so i will need to fab mounts

    • DW says:

      Hi Mike, that kit should work fine on your truck. Some customers run the bars on the outside of the rails in that case.

      Thanks,
      DW Horton

  25. Norman Heckley says:

    In your videos when you are welding Mustang II top hats and 4 link bars , what size filler rod are you using ? 1/16″ or 3/32″ ?

  26. nathan yacobino says:

    Hi I’m using mustang ii front end on my 1947 international and I have rotor and calipers from a 2011 mustang the calipers are 4 piston brembo will you caliper bracket work with them

  27. Sandy Reid says:

    Hello
    Doing a 49 Chevy car
    The Mll crossmember: May I just use stock control arms etc?
    And if so how much does it lower the front end by?

    Thank you

    Sandy Reid

  28. Tony Boldt says:

    I am trying to buy 10 blue snapper grommets but for some reason its only allowing me to select red. How could I select blue ones?

    • DW says:

      Hi Tony, I’m sorry… we’re out of blue grommets currently, and I haven’t been able to get a reliable date for when they’ll be back on the shelf. Sorry for the delay.
      dw

  30. Charles Kerns says:

    Hi, I am working on a 1955 F250 with an outside frame width of 34″, will the 36″ sway bar fit or will I need to order the longer one and cut it down?

    • DW says:

      Hi Charles. Since I see you’ve already ordered the 45″ sway bar kit, I’ll reply (albeit late) to someone else who may have a similar question. The outer tube in the 36″ kit is 34″ long, so if you’re installing it in a 34″ wide frame, it should be ok. For the difference in the kits though, I’d lean towards the 45″ kit so you have the option of bringing the bar through the frame rail more for clearance. The 45″ kit is easy to cut down, but the 36″ kit is difficult to lengthen :).

  31. Lou says:

    Hi Paul I bought a 1930 Ford coupe and it has a mustang 11 style front suspention with coil over. My question is can I make it a rear steer relatively cheap? I don’t like the the way the splash shield looks rather the flat original looking one,, thanks for your time

    • DW says:

      Hi Lou. This isn’t a solution that we’d endorse here. Converting Mustang II to rear steer requires spindles with proper rear steer geometry, otherwise you’ll have more issues than just a visual problem with the splash apron. Using a complete system like the Heidts Superide is a good way to get a proper rear steer IFS. Thanks for asking, and sorry for the “not relatively cheap” solution.

      DW

  32. Eugene says:

    I’m about to pick up a 47 Willy’s Jeep, it’s missing suspension so figured I’d build a lowdown mean and nasty street rod out of it. Which kit would you suggest?

    • DW says:

      Hi Eugene, thanks for your note. Sounds like a neat project! If it was mine to build, I think I’d probably put a coil over Mustang II crossmember and rear four link in it. Would be a great driver and you could set the ride height and attitude before you start building.

      DW

  33. Doug Sonnenberg says:

    Just want to say thanks for the great products. I ordered a motor mount kit and shock mounts for my 29 chrysler roadster build. Excellent quality. Also thanks for the coloring book. The kids love them. Thanks Doug from Rivers MB

  34. Daniel Prouty says:

    Dear DW/Paul I am new to the engine swap game and I have a 1957 Chevrolet 1/2 ton pick up truck with a factory stock frame and a tired 235 cu in line six motor. I recently purchased a rebuilt 250 cu inch motor but discovered that the motor mounts are located on the side of the engine block not like the 235 which is located just below the crankshaft pully on the front. I paged thru your catalog and viewed MPN250000 “Engine Mount Kit.”. Will this kit fit my stock frame rails and mount the engine to the frame? And do I need the frame filler plates to go with the kit? I also have the mount for the emergency brake just inside the driver side frame rail. Will this be a problem for your motor mount kit? Thank You for your time to reply to this E-mail Danny

    • DW says:

      Hi Danny, thanks for your note. Sorry I haven’t got back to you… our engine mounts are all a trim-to-fit design, and should work fine on your stock frame. We suggest boxing the rails where the frame plates will mount.

      Let me know if you have any more questions about the kit,

      DW Horton
      Welder Series Inc.

  35. Stuart says:

    I need brake bracket for Ford Granada spindles to take SN95 mustang front caliper. Mustang enthusiasm for bigger brakes on Granada spindles is on fire. So popular they repop Granada spindles.

  36. Erik Redlich says:

    Not sure if this is the right place for my question but here it is . Hi I’m looking into putting a M2 front suspension in my 63 Fairlane . What dimensions/ measurements do I need to get this ball rolling ? Thanks .

  37. dave rayner says:

    i,m building a 1937 ford coupe for the rear suspension would you use parallel 4 bar or a triangulated rear kit i have used your triangulated kit before also i will be getting a 561/2 front cross member kit from you soon ps would use the 5/8 shorter control arms with that ?? thanks dave rayner saskatoon sk

    • DW says:

      Hi Dave,

      Thanks for reaching out and for your continued trust in our products! For your 1937 Ford coupe, both the parallel 4-bar and triangulated rear 4-link kit are great options. Since you’ve used our triangulated kit before and are familiar with its performance, it might be a comfortable choice again. It eliminates the need for a Panhard bar, simplifies installation, and offers a clean, minimal look. It’s ideal if you’re after a simple, effective rear suspension solution.

      Regarding the 56-1/2″ front crossmember kit, my dad’s ’40 uses stock length control arms.

      If you need any additional advice or customizations for your build, feel free to ask. We’re always happy to help.

      Thanks again for your order—we look forward to getting you that front crossmember soon!

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