Category: Mustang II Application Questions

Dear Welder Series… Mustang II in a 1970 F100?

Dear Welder Series…
Hey guys I have been doing a little resurch I have a 1970 f100 and I’m looking to do either a crown Vic or mustang 2 front end swap and a 4 link in the rear. Could you guys help me out a little is the mustang ii front crossmember just a weld up deal or little confused and live in Wyoming so not a whole lot of people to help me out haha

Dear Donavan…
Our MII kits are available in pieces so you can save money by welding it.

A video on our website shows this being done. The instructions show how to cut notches in the crossmember and upper towers so your frame will sit at the ride height you want.

I hope this helps. Please ask other questions that you might have.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… narrow Mustang II crossmember?

Dear Welder Series…
I presently have a car that uses Armstrong front shocks and I want to replace the front suspension with your Mustang II Crossmember Kit. The problem is the frame is tubular and very narrow. The front tread is 45 1/2 inch. Can your kit be made to work? Thanks Frank

Dear Frank…
Frank, Maval Mfg can make a Mustang II rack up to 9″ narrower than stock. This would get the track width down to 47-1/2″ with stock (length) upper and lower arms and stock, 4-bolt rotors. Aftermarket brake kits often move the wheel mounting face of the rotors outboard or inboard, changing the track width. Shorter upper and lower arms will narrow the track width. I’ve heard that there are arms 1″ shorter than stock. This would get you in the 45-1/2″ range by cutting a portion out of the middle of our crossmember (shown below).

 

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… 1946 Ford transmission mount questions.

Dear Welder Series…
I hate to ask because I’m afraid I may have missed it in the blogs but Im going to anyway. I have a 1946 ford coupe. I’m installing a 4.6l dohc and 4L70 transmission in. I am getting the motor mounts and I am considering the the tubular center section. The factory frame has some plating but with large holes in it. Do I need to cut away that plating and make it solid? Also I’m not sure what if any transmission mount plate combinations I would need to mount up the 4L70. It’s a drivetrain from a 1998 Lincoln Mark Viii. Thanks for the help.

Dear Tom…
Tom, I’m not familiar with the Lincoln transmission, but we are modifying our 205041 adapter plate so it will bolt to the Ford C4, C6, and AOD transmissions. Here is the product:

If the 4L70 is available for you to get the mounting hole centers, please send them to me.

Regarding the boxing plates, we left the factory boxing in place and filled any holes necessary to mount the crossmember and engine mounts.

Because your car’s floor has a bit of a driveshaft tunnel, our tubular center section will not work as nicely as it does in vehicles with a flat floor. Check out the installation info below to see if this is how you want to go.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… 1949 Dodge MII?

Dear Welder Series…
I have a 49 dodge 4 door sedan that I would like to install a modern front suspension. Is there a set up that can be used? It looks like a person would have to remove the origional crossmember A arm set up and almost build a front clip. Any info would be helpful.
Thank you

Dear Chuck…
Chuck, you have this pictured correctly. There are some pictures on our website showing how builders have dealt with frames like yours. Check out http://welderseries.com/blog/category/mustang-ii-installed-pics/ .

Dear Welder Series… 1939 Plymouth Pickup frame options?

Dear Welder Series…
I just got a 1939 Plymouth pickup. I want to lower it, and I’m looking at the 4 link for the rear. It has a Ford 9″ rear axle. Also looking at maybe a Mustang II front. Can you help me maybe you have something that will work. It sits way too high and I’m going to box in the frame after I’m done. Thanks, Tom.

Dear Tom…
Hi, Tom. Any one of our rear 4-link kits could be used with your Plymouth. If you use a parallel kit, be sure to get a Panhard kit, too.

Check the track width (the distance from the center of one tire to the center of the opposite tire) to help decide which Mustang II kit to use. The frame width, inside and outside, will also help in choosing the Mustang II track width to get.

Here are some links for products that might work:
Rear suspension

Rear panhard kits

Click on any one of the kits for a more detailed description. This will probably generate more questions. Please send them to me and I’ll try to help.

Dear Welder Series… 1936 Chev Master mustang ii?

Dear Welder Series…
I am looking for a MII front end for a 1936 Chevy Master Sedan. I really like the looks of your standard coil crossmember. Do you have recommended frame widths for the 56″ and 58″ cross members? I see that you recommend the 56″ crossmember for a 36 chevy, but I may run a larger offset wheel and 58 may work out better for my application. My frame measures 24″ inside to inside and about 27.5″ outside to outside at “Z”. Also, in calculating ground clearances, can you tell me what the measurement is from the spindle height notch to the bottom of the crossmember? I am trying to get the car as low as possible and retain about 3-3.5 inches of travel. The top of my frame at ride height is 12″ from the ground (same as spindle center with my 24″ tire) so the notch will be right that the top of the frame if I use stock spindles or 2″ below with dropped. Also, does the top coil tower have enough material to mount to the frame if I go with stock spindles in this setup? This would
translate into basically cutting the crossmember completely off horizontally at the spindle notch, which would be the top of the frame rail. The tops of the rails are pretty level concerning the additional material needed for correct anti-dive. I hope this makes sense. Looking forward to ordering parts soon….

Thanks!

Dear Randy…
Thanks for giving me these details, Randy.

The limiting factors for the frame width vary depending on the frame height, but in general:
Minimum frame o.d. for the 56″ kit is 26″. Max frame o.d. is 30″. Depending on frame height, max would be about 30-1/2″ with the coil-over kit.
Minimum frame o.d. for the 58″ kit is 28″. Max frame o.d. is 32″. Depending on frame height, max would be about 32-1/2″ with the coil-over kit.

These min/max dimensions can be “defeated” by notching the frame rails (for spring clearance, for example) or by adding to the inside or outside of the frame in the area of the crossmember and upper towers.

With the crossmember sitting on the bench, the spindle height notch is 5-3/16″ off of the bench surface. If you use 2″ dropped spindles, the bottom of the crossmember will be 7-3/16″ lower than the spindle.

We would use 11-1/2″ as spindle height with a 24″ tall tire. This allows for tire “squat” when weight is on the tire.

Would consider putting a step notch in the frame in the crossmember/upper tower area to make the installation (much) easier?

Thanks again for considering Welder Series parts for your project.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
thanks paul. It looks like ground clearance wont be a problem then. Sorry for the additional questions, but how would stepping the frame make the install easier? I would think that notching the cross member would be easier. Is it because I want ride height so low / crossmember high in the frame? Also, do the upper towers have enough material to mount to the top of the frame rail if the top of the frame is at the spindle notch ? (i.e., -using dropped spindles). I am looking forward to getting parts in. I originally built the car back in the early 90’s and am doing a complete re-frame off. I am plugging along and will hopefully have the body off the frame this weekend. Oh, you dont make any rear leaf spring hangers (2.5″) do you? I appreciate your help Paul!

Thanks again,
Randy

Dear Randy…
Randy, you’re right about the low ride height and the crossmember. The upper towers won’t have any material to weld to the frame if the top of the rail is at spindle height. (The bottom edge of the tower is spindle height.)

Sorry, we don’t have leaf spring hangers.

Good questions & comments!

Paul

Dear Welder Series… 1971 Chev truck Mustang II?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi, I just received my 4-link kit and everything looks great! I have a ’71 chevy C10 truck I would like to convert to Mustang II front end. It’s my understanding my truck has a stock track width of 65.8″ (with stock wheels and tires). Should the measurement be taken hub-to-hub? I noticed the widest kit you offer is 60″ Any suggestions? Thanks for any info.

Brandon

Dear Brandon…
Thanks for your comments on the rear 4-link, Brandon. It’s a lot of work putting a Mustang II in your truck. 60″ is the widest track we have. To get out to 65/66″ (assuming you are comfortable doing the frame modifications required), get the 60″ kit and assemble it with your control arms, spindles, brakes, wheels/tires, and rack. Next, position it under your truck to determine exactly how much wider you want it. Make the crossmember this much wider in the center. A special rack can be ordered from Maval Mfg, http://www.mavalgear.com/unisteer.html.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series…
So the only way to fit the kit is with a completely assembled front end? Where I found the track width info they said with stock wheels and tires, so I’m wondering if it’s the overall width? The frame rails in the front are only about 28″wide. I don’t have any issue with the fab on the frame or cross member. I just didn’t want to have to buy a complete hub-to-hub kit when I’m so far from completion.

Thanks again,

Brandon

Dear Brandon…
I understand your plan, Brandon.  Here is some math for you to consider:  A stock Mustang II track width is 56-1/2″ using stock rotors.  The lower control arm pivot bolts are 22-1/4″ c-c on our 56″ kit.  The distance from the lower arm pivot hole to the rotor wheel mounting surface is, therefore, 17-1/8″.  (56.5 – 22.25) / 2 = 17.125  If you know how much the brake kit you plan to use differs from a stock MII location, you could calculate how much to add to the crossmember if stock-dimension control arms are used.  This would probably be close enough, since the fenders are so large and +/- 1/2″ might not be a problem.

You might want to read through the installation instructions here (for the mustang II crossmember kit) or here (for the mustang II coil-over crossmember kit) to get an idea of the frame work required.

I hope this helps.

Paul

Dear Welder Series… MII in a 1966 Fairlane?

Dear Welder Series…
Hello I’m looking to put a mustang two style front suspension in a project 1966 Fairlane, what info do I need to get to you to order a close kit? Thank you

Dear Chris…
The stock track width for a 1966 Fairlane is 58″, Chris.  Our 58″ Mustang II kit (shown here)

refers to an approximate dimension from rotor wheel mounting face to face.  The brakes and wheels you choose will alter that dimension, usually making the track width wider.  I’d suggest you measure your existing tire tread center-to-center dimension using the wheels and tires you plan to run. Decide if you would like a track width slightly wider than 58″ (then order a 58″ kit) or slightly narrower (then order a 56″ kit).

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… Pieces out of caliper bracket kit?

Dear Welder Series…
Howdy!
I’m kinda into an off the wall project.. Well outta the norm anyhow. I am looking at your brake caliper brackets. http://welderseries.com/brake-kit-plates/
I am working on a 1951 Dodge Meadowbrook. I am using Ford explorer rotors and factory hubs. I also have ’93 S-10 calipers 5.5″ guide bolt centers. I am gonna make a custom plate of 3/8″ steel for my spindle to weld your bracket to. I’ll hang the loaded calipers on the rotor with your bracket attached and tack weld them together. Them remove and fully weld. Question 1: Would the Ford or GM matter? As it is not a MII. (Would prefer the GM as it is cheaper.) Question 2: Will your brackets fit these calipers? A side note, I know there are brackets pre-made out there to do this swap but I am a cheap somebody! Most all my parts are salvaged parts. You guys make the THICKEST brackets that I have found! To me that=STRENGTH!
Thank you for your time and I’ll be looking forward to your reply! Matthew

Dear Matthew…
Matt, this sounds like a great project. You are making use of our kit parts the way we imagined when we thought of starting Welder Series!

The GM plate would be fine.

Our brackets are made for the 5.5″ pin centers.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… Mustang II for 1970 Dart?

Dear Welder Series…
I am building a 1970 Dodge Dart Pro touring car and greatly lowering my ride height. Stock front end components won’t handle the drop so I need to explore my options. My frame rails are 32″ inside to inside and I will be running an 18″ wheel. I need my track width to be at most 58″ and at a minimum 56″ closer to 58″ would be better. Is this something I can accomplish with a Mustang II? I have a set of new Mustang II 2″ drop spindles that I received as a gift so that’s what got me thinking. Any help or advice would be appreciated.

Dear John…
John, the nicest frame width for our 58″ Mustang II kit is 32″ O.D. This provides clearance for the coil spring. If this was our project, we would put a section of 2×4 tubing in the stock rails in the area of the crossmember and upper towers. This would be about 8″ ahead and behind the spindle centerline. The dropped spindles would be fine.

The brakes you use will have an effect on the track width. Our 56″ kit, with stock 4-bolt rotors, actually gives a track width of about 56-1/2″. If you use Granada rotors, the track width would be about 57″. The 56″ kit frame width should be 30″ o.d. maximum.

Thanks for asking about this. If my reply has created more questions, please get back to me.

Dear Welder Series… MII in an S10?

Dear Welder Series…
Paul, here’s the question. I’m in the process of putting a big block Chev in an s-10. Now you have to modify the cross member to install. And I was thinking would it be better to just put one of your units in. It will be cleaner I would be able to use Mustang II a-arms. Your set-up is already set-up for coil-over and mustang R&P. What unit would I use? Has any one else done this to an s-10 frame? Your knowledge is greatly needed and appreciated. Thanks in advance,
Art (oldschool racing).

Dear Art…
The easiest way is probably to make new frame rails from the firewall forward. It likely has been done (several times) but not by me. Actually, Hitman Hotrods installed one locally in a heavily modified S10:

Get the wheels and tires you want to use and mock them in the fender to check stance and track width.

Parts  for 1974 – 78 Mustang II are what you look for. The aftermarket has lots of tubular  and other repop stuff. The 1979 – 92 Mustang rack can be used if you want a power rack.

Thanks for asking. This should be a slick project.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… Mustang II for Triumph (not the motorcycle)

Dear Welder Series…
I intend to install a 302 Ford V8 in a 1974 Triumph TR6 as many other folks have done, see BritishV8 web site. I wanted to use Mustang II A-arms and spindles to get more options for brakes and wheels.
Any ideas? Do you have customers that have made this conversion?
Thanks for your help. I am still in the body removal stage of my conversion.

Dear Bob…
Bob, I’m almost certain that the Mustang II a-arms and spindles aren’t interchangeable with your Triumph parts. However, a complete Mustang II conversion should be possible and practical. See Grant Schwartz’ Volvo build as an example.  I hope this helps.

Dear Welder Series… Dodge Frame Question

Dear Welder Series…
Mr.Horton, looking at the pictures of the cross member installation in the 36 Dodge Humpback, I do not see (any) modifications to the hump in the frame. Is your cross member ready to install without modifications?

I have seen many pictures where the hump is taken out of the frame on other builds. I want to leave the frame in my sedan factory, without removing the hump. Also, I want to lower the car, but not enough to drag. Will your crossmember drop it enough or will I need to change the spindles to a 2″ drop also. Thank you!

Dear Tommy…
Thanks for asking, Tommy. Here is a photo showing the humpback ready to drive.

Most people do take the hump out of the front frame section. Grant Schwartz did this frame. (http://www.schwartzwelding.com/gallery/trucks/03.html)  Those are dropped spindles on the Horton Hot Rod Parts humpback.

I hope this helps with your planning.